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Ulises Victoria

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Posts posted by Ulises Victoria

  1. How are you planning to do the mouses? (mice? :P)

    The way they were actually done? Or the easy way?

    The way I do it (the easy way) is tie a knot where the mouse goes and then just wrap it with thin black thread. A coat of flat black paint and it looks like a parceled (sp?) mouse. :)

     

    Aaaah how I want to be in the rigging stage of my ship.  :(

  2. Update as of Feb 10 2016.

     

    I finished planking and painting the inner bulwarks, and applied a coat of boiled linseed oil.

    If you notice a different yellow color in these photos compared to previous ones, then you have a very good eye. :)

    During this process I decided to change the "mustard yellow" color I had used for a "ochre yellow" color.

    It may not be too apparent in the photos, but in person it makes a huge difference.  I am actually very pleased with the change.

     

    Thanks for visiting. :)

     

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  3. Did anybody used Elmer's Clear transparent school glue for rigging?

     

    Zoltan

    Haven't used that kind of glue because I think it will not dry flat and would leave a shiny spot. I may be wrong, though. As always "Experiment" ;)

    Anyway, I am very happy with the results I get from diluted white glue and/or Testor's FLAT varnish.

  4. Thank you Ulises !!!!!

     

    I didn't know that book.

    But there is more that I don't know......... :P

    Take a look at the topic Amati and Chris Watton !

    There is a title bit of news over there.

     

    Sjors

    Sjors: I strongly recommend this book. You can get it here.

    http://www.amazon.com/Young-Sea-Officers-Sheet-Anchor/dp/0486402207/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454775655&sr=8-1&keywords=the+young+sea+officer%27s

  5. Thank you for your comment,  daves.

     

    I made these 1/1 scale pistols a long time ago. I don't remember many specific details. I remember however using a Floquil paint called "Antique white" which unfortunately is no longer in production. Try searching the web for an equivalent of that paint. I am sure you can find an "Ivory" color among the many paint brands that exist.

    Hope this helps.

  6. Small update. Bulwarks have been planked, filled with plaster, and sanded. (they are formed by 4 layers of wood: 1st planking, 2nd planking, some vertical supports on the inside and finally the last horizontal planks). Here the decks have been masked in preparation for painting.

     

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    Yes it is! I use some stuff in a spray can that artists use to protect their pencil or pastel works from smearing. Since I got this in Mexico I don't think it will make any sense to tell you brand or where I bought it. Look for it in artists or hobby shops.

     

    I extend the mesh over a piece of wax paper, spray it heavy with the stuff, place the acetate over it and then a heavy book or similar object to press evenly. (Pressing between 2 sheets of glass would be ideal)

     

    A couple of sheets will serve you for a life time.

     

    Hope this helps.

  8. One of the many reasons I don't use superglue or CA is that a tiny drop spreads into a large area. My feeling is that you did overuse the glue. To fix knots use flat lacquer varnish or diluted white glue. They don't spread and make your lines stiff, do not make the lines brittle and do not leave a shiny spot,. All this things CA does. In any case, if you must use CA try to use a gel or a thicker one.

    Hope this helps.

  9. Looking good Ulises B)

    My 1/60 scratchbuild to Mamoli's plans going along in the background only highlights the problems you must have faced getting a fair hull.The bulkheads are miles away and unsymmetrical.Admittedly all errors on the plans are scaled up 1.5 times on my build,but the errors are as much as 3mm on my skeleton.Much packing sanding and checking will be required before I even think about planking.

     

    Kind Regards

     

    Nigel

    WOW! If at 1/90 I thought the hull was humongous, can't even start to think about it at 1/60. Best wishes with your project, Nigel.

  10. Interesting topic especially because in my present build (my fifth wooden kit after 4 "clean" builds) will have some light weathering effects.

    I spent many many hours trying to replicate the look of wood in plastic; then I spent many many hours in giving my plastic models a weathered and worn wooden look. Look at my photos of my Heller 1/75 Santa María.

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    My first wooden ships (San Juan Bautista, Endeavour, Bounty and Vasa) were all built "clean". (Well. with regards to Vasa, she didn't have time to "weather" :) so that would be a mistake. :) )

    I decided from the beginning that my Royal Louis will have a slight (not as heavy as Santa Maria) weathered look. I hope people here will like my "experiment"... if not... well... sorry. Hey, I may not even end liking it my self... but well, it will add to my learning experiences.

     

    So, like has been said all over and for the thousandth time: its your ship, you are the captain, build it as you want. Experiment. Experiments are the only way to find out what we like and what we don't. Of course, something has to be lost in the way if in the end your experiment turns out to be a failure. But you learned something!

     

    Best regards.

     

    Ulises

  11. Okay, here she is!

    Just a very few minor details left but I can say now my hull is planked and painted.

    It looks shinier in the photos than it really is. Maybe an effect of the flash.

    Also, the Boiled Linseed Oil finish was applied just a couple hours before, so I think it will diminish with time and handling.

     

    As I said before, I am pleased but not fully satisfied with my planking job. It has been a tremendous learning experience, though.

     

    Thanks for visiting.

     

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