Ulises Victoria

As a long time plastic modeler, my experience is that very often it takes more time to mask than to paint.

Generally speaking, you just have to deal with it. (Not sure if this helps.  )

I really appreciate your mention. I have to say that your work is much superior, and I really men it.

Sincerely.

Ulises

I am not absolutely sure about this, but both tea and coffee, being organic items and subject to decomposition, may cause the sails to deteriorate with time.

I hope some one can shed some light on this matter.

Get Dafi's photo-etch it takes the Vic to a whole different level....  

Mark. When I built the Heller's Vic in 1/100 I used many of the parts of a 1/98 Corel I started many years before and that I abandoned after giving up that build. (That's another story) Being the scales so close I thought it wouldn't matter too much and indeed, using metal cannons, fabric flags, wood and metal anchors, etc. took the plastic kit to a whole different level, as you said.

I saw that mistake on Amazon. Someone missed a couple of zeroes there.

I think Heller's 1/100 Soleil Royal will fill your need, and with 2,600 parts, will keep you busy for a while.

Also, Heller's 1/100 Victory (which I already built) and has been regarded as The Best Plastic Ship Kit.

May be out of production now, but IMAI/ERTL Golden Hind was a real pleasure to build.

There is also a 1/150 model of Vasa by Revell and another by Airfix, but looks like the Revell version is better.

Not familiar with this kit, but the name somehow pop out!!!     

I never wear gloves when using my Exacto or carving knives. I find them very cumbersome when doing precise work, however I am extremely careful about the rule of "never pull a knife in the direction where there is another part of your body" . I never ever wear gloves (or even unbuttoned long sleeve shirts) when working on my lathe, however eye and face protection here is mandatory.

I wear eye protection in my shipbuilding when doing potentially hazardous actions like pulling out nails with pliers. They sometimes jump to your face.

I have never had a serious injury, but to say that I have never shed blood (and sweat and tears) over a ship, would be a lie. 

I've seen a technique were a black thread, washed in diluted glue, was laid in after the the run of planking was complete (fore to aft). The the next line of planking was laid against the thread and so on. The ends of the planks were touched with black marker on one end only.

Has anyone employed this technique? Seems that this would give a clean none smearing line.

 

Mark

I tried it once with bad results. When sanding the threads would come off. Maybe I was doing something wrong.

The SotS is one of my dream ships. You are doing an excellent job here. My congratulations.

Hello Lawrence and Cristi. Thank you for your kind words. I am glad that after 1 yr and 7 months after finished, there are some people who still look at it!

Lawrence: The ropewalk machine is the Byrnes one. You can find a link to it in the right side of the home page of this site.

Cristi: Of course a display case is in order. Unfortunately some other things have taken preference.

My (then) next project, is now my current project. Click the Royal Louis link in my signature to go there.

By all means, assemble your build log with as many details as possible.

Julie: Do you build Classical Guitars?

Drooling over that Santísima Trinidad. 

I am truly honored for the mentions, Michael and George. Thank you, friends. Means a lot.

Oh Wow! Yes, welcome back Sjors and Anja. Hope to see more updates soon!

Best regards

Ulises

Vivian: Hola Linda. So nice to hear from you again, although on the other hand, saddened to hear you have had some rough times.

Wish you the best, my dear and hope that everything turns OK for you.

Abrazos.

Ulises

WOW WOW and WOW. This has to be the nicest hull planking job I have ever seen. Hats off to that builder!!!

Hello again.

You may want to visit this site: http://warshipvasa.freeforums.net/

Dr. Fred Hocker, Director of the Vasa Museum and author of the Vasa Book(s) is a very helpful person. He did answer some email questions personally to me when I was building my Vasa.

Best regards

Ulises

Hello Philo. This is too late, but I hope you take it into account for your next build.

I just noticed in the photo in your post #18 that the 3 planks that can be seen in the hull, have their butt ends aligned.

Butt ends should always be staggered, be it hull planks, deck planks or bricks on a wall.

Here is a photo of a deck, but the same principle applies to a hull.

Hope you find this useful.

Ulises

Hello. I am posting here to wish you good luck in this noble effort, and to give you a link (in my signature) to my Vasa build hoping you can find something useful in it.

Thanks much, Sjors!

No. I don't plan to copper this one. I wouldn't spent so much time and effort doing a (to the best of my possibilities) good hull planking job.

I will save that work for Chris' 1/64 Victory. (If it ever comes out )

Appreciate your comment!

Thanks a lot for the likes and comments Michael and David B. I can't wait to see it finished myself.

Nigel: I could enter the forum. It seems to have a different format. Try this link: http://gallery.shipmodeling.ru/

Thank you Terry.

Absolutely! I'm in the process of placing the second line of wales above the lower line of cannons. I will post photos as soon as both sides of this area are finished. 

In the mean time:

Also, I think somebody has mentioned it already, dump the Gorilla Glue. 

If you mean the regular foamy Gorilla Glue, yes by all means. However, Gorilla has an excellent Wood Glue, on pàr with Titebond and Elmer's. Just giving credit where its due.