Jump to content

Ulises Victoria

Members
  • Posts

    1,790
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Ulises Victoria

  1. In actual practice, there wasn't a fixed length for the planks in a ship. It very much depended on the availability of materials, so a rigid rule is almost impossible to establish. I most of the time choose a length of 120 mm for my planks. Why? just because 120 can be divided exactly by 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 and this sometimes facilitates some calculations. :)

  2. Today everyone have enought information too choose models after their own opinion and preference, someone like historical accuracy, someone like models more like decoration. 

     

    Indeed! I like to build my models to win contests, and then as decorative elements in my home.

    I had a really nice experience at a modeling contest in San Antonio, TX a few years back.

    I presented my Bounty in the contest. There were these two senior persons next to it and they weren't aware that I who was standing next to them, was the builder. I overheard one of them saying "Wow... this is one of those things that you can only dream about doing".

    These are the moments that make worth all the tears, sweat and blood you put in your models. ^_^

  3. That kind of racing boats usually had a really shiny surface. It's supposed that the shine gave them more speed, since the gloss paint is less rough than the flat.

    As far as the roughness of the paint that statement is true; how much more speed they actually got is debatable, IMO.

    But... as always been said, it's your ship. Do with her as you please.  ;)

    I would airbrush several coats of a clear varnish, preferably of the same brand as your paint.

    Looks like you are proficient with the use of an airbrush.

    How flat or shiny is up to you.   ;)

     

    Oh, and yes... how can you keep your workshop that clean??? :o  :o  :o

  4. Oh yes! I do like those and have profound admiration for the craftsmanship involved in making them. But I would never attempt to do something like that. Besides being outside my level of skill by a mile, I would rather invest my time and effort in making something more closely similar to the original.

    But as you said... that will never happen in a kit!

  5. I am a late comer to this topic.

    The question asked was : Does it have to be wood?

     

    In my opinion, if it was wood in the original, then yes! It has to be wood. Unfortunately this is not always practical in ship modeling.

    Making belaying pins at 1/90 or smaller scale is almost impossible. I would love to see (and I am yet to see)  a kit where everything that was wood in the original, is wood in the kit.

    My other hobby and part business is turning pens. Wood is my favorite media. I turn acrylics only because they are much more colorful and some people likes the reds and blues and yellows and sparkling goldens. I have also turned some corian, but it comes out very dull. There are not bright colors in corian,

    So to me, wood is wood and by far, my preferred material to both make ships and turning pens.

  6. Hello fellow ship modelers. Here's some good and bad news.

     

    I wanted to post an update when the whole transom was completely done. I have completed only the rear part, (not the sides) as you will see in the following pictures. The sides, the area where I posted before that the parts broke and cursed and blah blah blah, will have to be finished later.

    I am still thinking of ways to do that area. So many options, so little... whatever :)

     

    My sister, who is totally dependent upon me because her diabetic feet and other illness,  and lives with me, broke her hip, had to undergo surgery and today is being moved to my home.

    So my building time and mood will be severely undermined for some time in the future.

    So I decided to post what I have done so far.

     

    As always, thanks for visiting, and every single word of positive criticism will be taken in account. 

     

    I love you guys!!! :)

     

    This area had to be filled

    post-975-0-56189400-1471368803_thumb.jpg

     

    I used play doh to make a mold. then I moved the parts a bit downwards. I then filled the space with "Plastiacero" (Plasi-steel) which is a two part epoxy component with a metal charge that hardens very hard.

    post-975-0-14420100-1471368856_thumb.jpg

     

    Here the two parts with the extension added and filed, and partially painted. Also the upper curved part partially painted

    post-975-0-00222400-1471369077_thumb.jpg

     

    post-975-0-50538700-1471369130_thumb.jpg

     

    The upper part glued in place. The white wood parts you see are fillers which will be reworked later

    post-975-0-59148700-1471369188_thumb.jpg

     

    post-975-0-05721900-1471369280_thumb.jpg

     

    post-975-0-54238700-1471369296_thumb.jpg

     

    Here the 2 vertical sections have been glued. You can see at the right the black spot plastiacero left. I used plastiacero to bond metal to metal, and 5 min epoxy to bond metal to wood.

     

    post-975-0-58277000-1471369328_thumb.jpg

     

    Lower and upper  balustrades added.

    post-975-0-07119700-1471369448_thumb.jpg

    post-975-0-51429500-1471369512_thumb.jpg

    post-975-0-06510400-1471369559_thumb.jpg

    post-975-0-49974000-1471369581_thumb.jpg

     

    Close up of one of the winged female angels. I didn't know angels had gender, but this one obviously do. :)

    post-975-0-99180400-1471369685_thumb.jpg

     

    Thank you all for visiting!!!

     

    Ulises

  7. Hello Don.

     

    Wow... this sure is a delayed answer. I am very sorry I didn't notice your question until now.

     

    My kit doesn't come with any coloring guide. I am going with "Barn Red" color for the carriages, the same color I used for the bulwarks and black wheels.

     

    Btw I built Heller's RL a very long time ago. This kit was a pleasure to do.

     

    Best of lucks.

     

    Ulises

×
×
  • Create New...