Ulises Victoria

Hello Messis.

Not sure what you are trying to accomplish. Are you trying to just hide some glue stains in a part of a rope, and leave the rest unpainted? Not recommended. 

Are your ropes already fixed on the ship? If you want to cover a few stains you will have to paint all the line, and probably all the similar lines. I think you will have a tough job trying to paint the lines without touching other items like blocks, deadeyes, masts, etc.

I am just brainstorming here, because it is not very clear to me what your problem is. A couple of photos would be of great help.

Best regards.

Well done, my friend. That hull is coming along really nice. Measuring and correct placement of the gunports has always been to me one of the most challenging parts of hull-making. Good job!!!

@Bug. Consider me a masochist as well, as you will see in my sig that the SotS is in my wish list.

Hello Cindy. Nice to have you here!

Two important rules:

1.- Buy tools as you need them...

2.- No matter what your "admiral" says, there is no such thing as " too many tools"  

Best regards

Ulises

CaptainSteve.. Exactly what I meant to say. Maybe I was not clear enough.

Not trying to stir things, but I think the idea of this post is about using everyday stuff in our models that ​

it isn't mean to be used in our models.

Hello Matthew.

First of all thank you for the mention of my Deck planking guide.

What I do now, instead of actually using treenails in decks or hulls, is to just drill a hole with the smallest drill you have. Then I put a small drop of Boiled Linseed Oil (or you can use Tung Oil also) on a piece of very fine sandpaper. The dust will mix with the oil and fill the holes, giving the exact appearance of a wooden plug, which is exactly what treenails are (were). I later finish with a coat of the same BLO to even things out. To me this method has worked perfectly. The beauty of this is that you can use a really thin drill to achieve a more close scale, easier than using real treenails.

Here you can see the effect on the Z timbers

Hope this helps.

Ulises

I suppose I should make all the parts and then spend one session gluing them. 

That's exactly what I'd do

 

 

I also did pick up some 30 minute epoxy. Haven't tried it yet but it is supposed to stay usable longer.

I have some of this stuff. Bought it for the moment when I had to glue all the gunport metal frames to the builkheads and wanted some long time to be able to glue as many as I could with one batch of glue.

In my case, or my opinion if you wish, I try to avoid CA as much as possible. For clean wood to clean wood nothing beats Titebond or Elmer's wood glue. I don't really care about the longer drying times because I feel I get a much stronger bond. For wood to metal nothing beats epoxy. Again I don't care about the waste since, as before, I feel I get the best bond.

I don't have it with me at the moment but I will look for it: There is now evidence that CA degrades over time.

Just my 2 cents.

I use balsa wood blocks, cut them to size to fit between frames then shape with sandpaper glued to a wooden block.

Too bad the camera was at the opposite side of what he was actually doing.     

Easier said than done. 

I bought the planking bundle (1 & 2) from Modellers Shipyard. To be honest, there was very little I did not know already. I can´t speak about the Lauckstreets ones, but they look interesting if you are building the particular ship in the practicum. As Mark said, I would look first in the MSW database and if nothing found, I'd buy the practicum.

Some brands of epoxy come in a syringe type dispenser, which automatically squirts the right amount of both components. (You still have to mix, though)

I agree that using epoxy brings a big waste of material, but to me it is well worth it.

If drying too quick is a problem, look for 30 min epoxy instead of the more common 5 min.

I am not aware of other glues as strong as epoxy that come in a single component use, but I'd love to know.

Hope this helps.

Happy happy happy B.D. to you my friend. I hope you will enjoy your day to the utmost!!!

Ulises

Thank you all for your support.

Karleop. Good idea. I may have some plastiacero around as I use it frequently. Never thought about using it on molds of plastilina. Another option!!!! 

That deck planking looks very nice and very clean. Good job so far my friend, as expected.  Cheers

Thank you very much for your thoughts, Arthur.

I have no soldering equipment nor skills to do any soldering. The only thing I need to do is the three section windows. The rest of the pieces are OK.

G'day Ulises

I'm sorry for your 'disaster'. You are very courageous to attempt this very difficult replacement, and what I can tell, you are doing just fine.

All the best mate. does it mean that you have to do make the other side aswell?

 

Havagooday

Greg

Thanks Greg! Yes, I am making both 125 and 126 parts, 2 of each for each side.

Hmmm... yeah. On second thought aluminum may not be my best option. Thanks a lot mates. I will study other options now!!!

Thank you Nenad, Sjors and Mike for your encouragement.

So far, so good.

Mike, wood will be my next try if this one fails. I am NOT giving up!!!

DISASTER!!!!

I am brokenhearted. I was working on these pieces, (125 and 126) which come flat and are supposed to be bent to form some sort of 3 sided semi-circle. When I tried to bend them, they broke, wood and windows came apart and it was a total mess.

My jaw dropped when I realized that without these parts the ship could not be completed.

I contacted a fellow member here who was building this kit and after planking the hull he decided to quit in order to focus on more important things for him. I asked him to sell me those pieces, but he already gave the kit to someone else.

I have contacted several kit sellers who sell this kit to see if they sell spare parts, with no success.

So after a long thought I decided to try and make them scratch using sheet aluminum. I've never tried something like this.

Anyway, here is some progress.

I am tracing the profile of the parts using a pen engraver.

It is actually nice to see a shapeless and ugly hole like this...

...becoming, after some time and careful effort, a nice square like this...

I am not sure what the final outcome will be. Anyway, this will be one hell of a job for me since I've never attempted anything like this, and one that certainly will keep me busy for the next several days.

Wish me luck!!! 

Yeah, I noticed the guitar too. Do you play Sjors? If so, there is something else we have in common. 

Hello John. I'm no master, and much less in 1993 when I built my Heller Victory. I remember having that same problem back then. The knots didn't look even. I solved the problem with clove hitches but I see that didn't work for you. My suggestion is give it another try. If it worked for me, don't see why it won't work for you.

Best of lucks.

Edit. I remember trying tying the clove hitches knots in the outer part of the stay, but what ended working well, was tying the knots in the inner part of the stays. Hope this helps.

As long as it dries hard, and without leaving a shiny spot, like CA does, it will be OK.

Hello Casey. I have not used Hypo fabric glue in conjunction with beeswax, but I have used beeswax with diluted white glue. The glue just doesn't go through the wax. So my guess is that Hypo glue will not have any effect over beeswax to secure knots.

In fact I stopped using beeswax at all for my rigging. I secure my knots with a mini drop of either Clear FLAT varnish or just diluted white glue. I NEVER use CA to secure my knots, by the way.