CUTTY SARK by keelhauled - Mantua - kit bashed - First wooden ship build

[hof00]

Hi Chap,

Just found your Build Log again....

 

Your Cutty is looking superb!!

Very nice rigging and awesome attention to detail.

(I esp. like the Hermaphrodite Spars attached to the Deck.)

 

I moved out of Wellington to Manaia, South Taranaki about 3 Months ago, couldn't do anything as all my modelling stuff was in storage for one month prior to gaining possession of the house. I got the Cutty Crated along with the Pen Duick and hoped for the best with the others.... I did expect some damage, but none, awesome Movers.... 😀

 

Anyway, looking forward to further progress on the Cutty.

 

(Have you thought about what you might build next or is it too early to ask?)

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

 

 

 

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

On 7/13/2020 at 11:43 PM, keelhauled said:

hello everyone,

 

thanks for your support Harry!  I've been learning to use the lathe.  I've been accomplishing turning threads at the correct pitch and turning rods to the correct diameter within a 1/10000 of an inch. I have a way to go to before tackling anything of substance.  working on skills.  I'd like to make some parts for my tiny wood working lathe (like a following rest) and make some jigs for modeling.  Eventually I want to turn the ships bells, stanchions for the rails, sheaves and maybe cannon and  belaying pins. 

 

Sorry, I haven't posted.  Unfortunately, I've been working long hours as a result of COVID-19 and when I've had time off, I wasn't overly productive and didn't feel like being in front of a computer screen.  I don't think I checked email more than once a month.   Anyway, I have worked on the Model some when I can get myself motivated - seem to be in a funk and extremely tired.  Then I moved my home work environment from my house in Virginia to my house in Florida for the month. 

 

On to rigging - 

I continued work on rigging the mainmast.  I continued with rigging the ratlines, using templates created for both sides.   

 

The template is designed to be up against the shrouds to align the ratlines. The view of the template isn't aligned with the ratlines in the photo (its leaning against the mast, so the ratlines don't line up with the correct template lines. 

  

You might notice that there are two groups of lines red and black.  I screwed up which was evident when I checked the port and starboard alignment and height above the deadeyes.  The red lines are the corrections to the spacing. 

 

 

port side

 

some views of the foremast and the pin rails. You can see the serving of the main stay.

 

 

 

a view of the fore top from aft.  can see the 

 

Next is some work on the ship's boats

thanks

Marc

oh yeees how come i have missed this so far Mark ? SUuuperb work ! astonishing. i only cry i cannot continue rigging on mine. ;( . pressing follow now. 

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

On 7/24/2020 at 8:42 PM, keelhauled said:

After letting the shrouds and lanyards sit overnight, I adjusted the tension where needed and let it sit again for a few days.  Then I checked the tension and alignment of the mizzen against the other mast again. this time I got a better photo.  The caps are lined up, the tops are lined up and the royals and sky are lined up.  I'm sure that they never were on the actual ship.  But I tried to keep the rigging ship shaped     For reference, the only square sails set thus far are on the fore mast.

 

 

 

thanks for  looking!!

no 1!  

[keelhauled]

Hi Harry!

 

I'm glad that your move was successful and no damage to the ships!!!  I'm looking forward to seeing more building from you.  I had more delays on my build.  My wife and I relocated to our house in Florida for a couple of months.  Tired of seeing the inside of our house in Virginia -working at home from COVID.   Back in Virginia again and access to the ship.  

 

Vladimir, Thank you for your comments on my build.  Your build of the Cutty is wonderful. I impressed on your 1:24 scale!! 

 

best, 
marc 

[keelhauled]

Hi all, 

 

I'm still alive.  Sorry I haven't posted in almost a year.   I think the whole COVID situation has killed my attention span outside work.  I can't seem to stay focused and my energy level is at a minimum.  I'm exhausted at the end of the workday or after I've done the necessary chores on the weekend. Even staying connected with friends seems harder. 

 

I haven't done a lot of work since my last burst of energy.  However, I did accomplish some in small sessions here and there.  I completed all of the mizzen deadeye - shroud rigging and finished all of the ratlines.   I took a couple of photos on my phone.  I'll take better ones and upload them.  My phone doesn't do a good jog capturing the details in focus. 

 

 

 

I've been trying to buy a mill during this whole COVID mess.  The dealer will ship everything you want to buy in the crate with the machine and you only have to pay the same shipping charge on the machine. I wanted to take advantage of this great savings, but all of the higher/heavier large ticket items were never in stock at the same time as the Mill.   When items came back into stock, the Mill was out of stock for several months. Always two or more items on backorder (not the dealer's fault). Anyway, I broke down and ordered everything that was in stock when the mill was finally back in stock.   So here's the new addition to my shop. 

 

 

Happy Mother's Day

best

marc

[hof00]

Hi Chap,

Great to see your post and photos, looking really good!!

The Mill looks awesome, good to add some versatility to the workshop.

 

Yup, appreciate the motivation thing with COVID, Etc. Been having issues myself, however, this could have something to do also post my house move.... 🙂

 

Small sessions on Your Cutty is still progress, a few more sessions and you'll be finished before you know it!!

 

Cheers....HOF.

[keelhauled]

Hi Harry, 

Thank you for the reply and encouragement.  It really means a lot to me. 

I hope you and your loved ones are doing well.  I trust that you're settled into the new house. 

best, 

marc

[hof00]

Hi Marc,

Pretty much settled in.... Still plenty to do but getting there.

 

I'll be "Lurking" around to see progress on your beautiful Cutty.... 🙂

 

Cheers and Regards,

Harry.

[NenadM]

Glad to see you again, Marc

Lazy time full of fear reflect to everything.

But, it is time to come back!

[keelhauled]

Hi all, 

I have been slowly making progress.  But I have made progress.  I find it amazing that what I think will take 15 minutes takes an hour to rig.  I find that I run a line, then find it wrapped around something or needs to be run differently not to fowl another line, etc.   Then I have to pull it out and re-rig it another time or two.  It's taking much longer than I anticipated.   However, it's fun when I'm not getting aggravated at reworking lines.  One step forward, two steps (or more) back.  

 

This is where I'm at tonight. 

When I rigged  the mast I braced around the yards as I worked from bottom to top. I didn't have any of the actual brace lines rigged.  Per Harry's (HOF) recommendation, I will wait until the end to rig the actual braces.  I just lightly glued the yards into position. This allowed me to run all of the rigging through the fairleads and to the pins as I rigged.  I glued the lines to the pins as I went and this allowed for a very clean process.  However there was a price.  I had a heck of a time running the lines with the yards braced around. Maybe I should have rigged top to bottom?  Anyway For the main mast I decided not to brace the yards around. I'm running all of the lines through the fairlead board (where applicable) then through the fairleads on the shrouds and then I just pulling the lines through the rail to the outboard of the ship. My thought is that at the end, I move the yards  (brace) into their final position and adjust the tension on the lines and belay the lines to the pins, let it sit for a few days and adjust any tension needed, then glue the lines to the pins.  So far,  I've gotten the course through the t-gallant rigged and it seems to be working ok.  

 

here's a shot.  I have taken more photos and will post them after I move them from my camera to the computer. 

 

Take care, stay well, and stay safe. 

best, 

marc

 

A few shots of the model 

 

 

 

Main mast -rigging is loose

 

Aft fore mast rail 

 

 

 

main mast progress. loose rigging

 

Aft side of the main mast spider band - work in progress

[hof00]

Hi Chap,

Good to see you back at it and welcome back after your hiatus!!

Looks absolutely awesome!! (Love the "Along the Deck" shots.)

 

I reckon your almost done. (Don't forget the Hatch covers/Deckhouses though.... 🙂)

 

My opinion, "Museum Quality."

 

Looking forward to more progress/completion. (I hope you have a display cabinet lined up....🙂)

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

[gjdale]

That’s looking fantastic Marc!

[My Fathers Son]

I am not too far behind you, I have just made my sails for the Mizzen and will be mounting them shortly. I stopped rigging at the lifts, then worked on the sails, planning on installing from top to bottom. Just makes a bit more sense to me.

 

Loving your work so far.

 

Simon

[LeoM]

Are you sure these are pictures of your model and not the real ship? 😉

Fantastic work!!

Edited March 8, 2022 by LeoM

[keelhauled]

Hi Harr, Grant, and Simon,

 

Thank you for your kind words.  I really appreciate the support!

 

 I spent part of the weekend moving the bunt lines on the main course sail.  I had previously moved the buntline blocks to be more in line with the oldest painting and Campbell's drawing.  However, I forgot to move where the buntlines were attached to the sail.  I adjusted the connections further out which would now allow the foot of the sail to be pulled up to the blocks correctly.  When I was done, I couldn't really see much of a difference.  I'm sure no one would be able to tell.   Before, I made this change I thought that it looked way off.  now I know that it didn't actually look off even though it was.  I guess that is what experience gains you.  I kind of feel like I waisted the afternoon.  However, if I hadn't of made that change it would have always bothered me and I would have always thought that it was a glaring mistake. 

 

I'll take a picture and add it to the post so that  you can take a look at the difference.

 

Thanks

Marc

[petervisser]

Hi Marc,

Just looking in and your model is looking fantastic. You are a braver man than I, rigging the model with sails. After rigging a previous model with square sails, it's a task that I want to avoid from now on! But your sails look great and they're a very nice addition to your model. Good luck going forward.

Cheers,

Peter

[keelhauled]

Hi everyone, 

 

Peter, thank you for your comments.  I'm always conflicted about the sails.  I like the way they look, but the amount of work is unbelievable.  Sometimes I think it takes as long to create and rig the sails as it does to build the rest of the ship.

 

In my March 14 post, I spoke about the main course and moving the buntline locations on the foot of the sail.  As I said a lot of work and not sure it made any difference.  I'm late on getting the images for you, but here they are. 

 

 Originally, I had the buntline locations on the foot of the sail proper aligned to be brought up for furling and had does these adjustments with the sail actually pulling the lines up as a dry run off the ship. Then I was looking at the oldest painting of the Cutty and Campbell's drawings and saw that the location of the blocks on my ship didn't line up with those sources.  So I decided to move the block locations to match those sources.  However, I forgot to move where the buntlines were attached to the sail.  The new locations of the blocks would now allow the foot of the sail to be pulled up to the blocks correctly. As I said this was a huge deal to me and I thought that it was obvious to the casual observer (whomever that might be.  Certainly no one who will actually see this in my house or the family member that inherits this model and tosses it in the garbage or sells in in a garage sail).   

 

Anyway, here is the photo of the old course buntline positions.

And now after a full day's work and several nights of researching the topic in several books, in the new locations.  This time I made sure that the lines will pull the foot up to the blocks as shown in my references on the topic.

 

On a topic of making sure that lines are actually long or short enough.  I thought that I'd share how I determine the length of the permanent lifts when the sails are set.  It's easy.  I determine the lengths of the lifts, by actually lowering the yard to the position where it would be with the furled sail. 

 

Here are images of the t'gallent sail with the yard hung in its lifts.  When I secure the lifts, I'll raise it up to the proper position.

please ignore the slack lines. The photos do show the fairlead planks pretty well. One word of advice using fairlead planks to to check, then check again, then again, that the all of the holes are drilled large enough to accommodate the lines. You don't want to have to drill these holes larger or chase them while they are on the ship with the rigging. Ask me how I know this wisdom. Answer is that I only checked twice.  I should have checked one more time with the mast in off the ship then again with it in place, but not rigged.

   

 

Thanks for looking, 

Marc

[hof00]

7 hours ago, keelhauled said:

Hi everyone, 

 

Peter, thank you for your comments.  I'm always conflicted about the sails.  I like the way they look, but the amount of work is unbelievable.  Sometimes I think it takes as long to create and rig the sails as it does to build the rest of the ship.

 

In my March 14 post, I spoke about the main course and moving the buntline locations on the foot of the sail.  As I said a lot of work and not sure it made any difference.  I'm late on getting the images for you, but here they are. 

 

 Originally, I had the buntline locations on the foot of the sail proper aligned to be brought up for furling and had does these adjustments with the sail actually pulling the lines up as a dry run off the ship. Then I was looking at the oldest painting of the Cutty and Campbell's drawings and saw that the location of the blocks on my ship didn't line up with those sources.  So I decided to move the block locations to match those sources.  However, I forgot to move where the buntlines were attached to the sail.  The new locations of the blocks would now allow the foot of the sail to be pulled up to the blocks correctly. As I said this was a huge deal to me and I thought that it was obvious to the casual observer (whomever that might be.  Certainly no one who will actually see this in my house or the family member that inherits this model and tosses it in the garbage or sells in in a garage sail).   

 

Anyway, here is the photo of the old course buntline positions.

And now after a full day's work and several nights of researching the topic in several books, in the new locations.  This time I made sure that the lines will pull the foot up to the blocks as shown in my references on the topic.

 

On a topic of making sure that lines are actually long or short enough.  I thought that I'd share how I determine the length of the permanent lifts when the sails are set.  It's easy.  I determine the lengths of the lifts, by actually lowering the yard to the position where it would be with the furled sail. 

 

Here are images of the t'gallent sail with the yard hung in its lifts.  When I secure the lifts, I'll raise it up to the proper position.

please ignore the slack lines. The photos do show the fairlead planks pretty well. One word of advice using fairlead planks to to check, then check again, then again, that the all of the holes are drilled large enough to accommodate the lines. You don't want to have to drill these holes larger or chase them while they are on the ship with the rigging. Ask me how I know this wisdom. Answer is that I only checked twice.  I should have checked one more time with the mast in off the ship then again with it in place, but not rigged.

   

 

Thanks for looking, 

Marc

Hi Chap,

That is some pretty awesome and detailed work!!

(Puts my "Cutty" to shame.... 🙂)

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

[keelhauled]

Thanks Harry!  However, your Cutty is a gem!  I studied very closely and learned a lot.  Your case is fantastic.   If only I could build a case like that!  If you haven't seen Harry's build and gallery pages on the Cutty, you should check them out.  

 

 

 

 

[keelhauled]

Also, you should check out Harry's other builds. 

 

-marc

[hof00]

2 hours ago, keelhauled said:

Also, you should check out Harry's other builds. 

 

-marc

Thanks Marc!!

 

That's very kind of you....

Much appreciated.

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

Edited April 21, 2022 by hof00

[keelhauled]

Hi, 

I need some help determining where and how to belay the cro-jack sheets on the Cutty Sark. I'm looking for help and insight. 

 

In researching the belaying point I've looked at the actual Ship in London, Longridge's the Cutty Sark with Harold Underhill's plans and the Campbell's Plans, which were used as one of the primary references when they restored the ship.    I've drawn this diagram to help the discussion.

In figure A.  I've illustrated the ship as she was in 1990 and 2019 when I last visited her.  The Crojack sheet goes through the bulwark fairlead where is goes around the sheave and out onto the deck and is belayed to  large bollards forward of the fairlead.  This is actually the way all of the other coarse sheet are rigged currently.  The fore and Main course sheets are also rigged this way with small bollards on the rails.   Here is a shot from 2019

 

 

 

The oldest references which are Campbell and Underhill's plans have these large bollards aft of the crojack bulwark fairleads as illustrated in B.  It is my understanding that the bollard was moved forward when the ship was owned by the Portuguese company.  I can't imagine that the sheet would go through the fairlead and then aft to the bollards.  Unless, perhaps if the crew pulled the sheet forward and then stopped the farilead and made the sheet fast to the bollards aft of the fairleads?  I was thinking of the way that the has a procedure for stopping the line when raising the halyard lines and brining them up to the pins?

 

As you can see in the photo above there is a pin rail located forward of the fairleads, but these are completely full when the ship has sails. unlike some of the other pin rails, these don't have wooden bollards, just a knob-not even a pin. If you think that the sheet would be belayed here, how would it be made fast/secure?

 

Thanks in advance for the help!

best

Marc

  

[hof00]

Sorry Marc,

I am no help here....

 

I hope that some one on the Forum can assist you further.

 

Cheers....HOF.

[keelhauled]

Thanks Harry.

 

I'm considering just adding another set of bollards beside the pin rail. Or just making it fast to the pins.  I had already placed the existing bollards aft according to Campbell's plans. To me it doesn't make since not to use the sheave in the fairlead. To rig the sheet aft without it running against the sheave would cause excessive wear to the sheet.  Also the sheets for the  larger courses run forward from the bulwark Fairless to much smaller bollards on the rail. 

 

I have time to figure it out. I realized that the starting points for the braces need to be addressed while I can still maneuver the sails. With the sails in place, the sails are making access the starting position of the bracing line difficult to access and attach to the shrouds. There is a similar issue with the brace pendents. I won't rigg the braces till the end. But I need the sails in their braced position when I tension the lines coming from the yards and sails. Also with yards in their braced positions, the eyes to attach the pendants  on the leeward side are facing inboard and difficult to access. Thus if I don't add the pendants and braces to their origins now it will be almost impossible later. 

 

Best 

Marc

 

Edited April 24, 2022 by keelhauled

[Ian_Grant]

I have no specific knowledge of these sheets, but the original aft position for the bollard makes sense to me because it leaves enough length of rope for several men to keep it taut as a crewman behind them belays the slack end on said bollard.

 

Or, as you say, they could stop it at the fairlead then belay to the forward bollard. See the following video; the woman stands on the rope at the fairlead at about 1:55.

 

 

Also, the Portuguese re-rigged her as a barquentine in which case she would not have had a cro'jack. So maybe they moved the bollard forward for some other purpose.

 

For what it's worth, my ancient Revell CS has the bollards aft.

 

By the way, your model is magnificent!  Especially as a first build.....

Edited April 24, 2022 by Ian_Grant

[hof00]

7 hours ago, keelhauled said:

Thanks Harry.

 

I'm considering just adding another set of bollards beside the pin rail. Or just making it fast to the pins.  I had already placed the existing bollards aft according to Campbell's plans. To me it doesn't make since not to use the sheave in the fairlead. To rig the sheet aft without it running against the sheave would cause excessive wear to the sheet.  Also the sheets for the  larger courses run forward from the bulwark Fairless to much smaller bollards on the rail. 

 

I have time to figure it out. I realized that the starting points for the braces need to be addressed while I can still maneuver the sails. With the sails in place, the sails are making access the starting position of the bracing line difficult to access and attach to the shrouds. There is a similar issue with the brace pendents. I won't rigg the braces till the end. But I need the sails in their braced position when I tension the lines coming from the yards and sails. Also with yards in their braced positions, the eyes to attach the pendants  on the leeward side are facing inboard and difficult to access. Thus if I don't add the pendants and braces to their origins now it will be almost impossible later. 

 

Best 

Marc

 

Hi Marc,

Just a suggestion here....

Have you also looked at your access for installation of Deckhouses, Boats, Etc before you get to the final pieces of Rigging?

 

As stated, just a suggestion, you have probably already done so and I am certainly not teaching you to suck eggs, so to speak.... 🙂

(It would be awful if you had to de-construct anything....)

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

[keelhauled]

Ian thank you for the information and video. I really appeciate the help!!!

 

Harry, thank you for alerting me to possible issues!!! Keep on doing so and reminding me of what i need to keep an eye on. I have continued to check the fore deck house. The staysails dont have their sheets rigged yet because if I do i loose access to install the forward deck house.  Im still trying to figure out how to best rig some lines that will be on the pin rails beside the forward de k house. Sometimes is lind of a chicken/egg issue. Same with the aft deckhouse. 

Keep reminding me!!!!!!!!

 

Thanks

Marc 

[keelhauled]

Crojack sheet mystery solved.

 

This is one of those cases where you've searched over the plans numerous times and missed the information in front of your face. Maybe this doesn't happen to you, it's only me. 

 

I posted the question under rigging on this site.  B.E answered with directing me to Longride's Cutty Sark book.  I had seen the information he referred me to which addressed the standing location of the sheet, but not the working portion of the sheet's belayed position.,

 

However, thanks to B.E., I went back through all of Campbell's pans again. comparing the Longridge info against Cambell's plans.  I found that the info I was seeking regarding the belaying point is in the Rigging Plan.  I guess that I spent too much time looking at the sail plan.  However, I did look at the rigging plan several times and missed the comment pointing to the sheet:  "4 inch hemp rope through sheave in bulwark and belayed on pinrail."    You were right Harry!

 

I had actually, given up searching and  had decided to add another set of bollards to mount aft of the pinrail for the crojack sheets.  I made two sets of the bollards from steel on my lathe and soldered them in place on a brass channel.  I made pins in the bollards to provide unnecessary support and alignment .   I also launched a single bollard into outerspace (or at least my ceiling) when I was parting it.   No use looking for that tiny part in my cluttered garage. 

 

Here's my handiwork. 

 

My first attempt at making bollards.  Not great, but better than the castings.  Now they aren't needed.  Oh well. 

 

 

 

Edited May 2, 2022 by keelhauled

[hof00]

3 hours ago, keelhauled said:

Crojack sheet mystery solved.

 

This is one of those cases where you've searched over the plans numerous times and missed the information in front of your face. Maybe this doesn't happen to you, it's only me. 

 

I posted the question under rigging on this site.  B.E answered with directing me to Longride's Cutty Sark book.  I had seen the information he referred me to which addressed the standing location of the sheet, but not the working portion of the sheet's belayed position.,

 

However, thanks to B.E., I went back through all of Campbell's pans again. comparing the Longridge info against Cambell's plans.  I found that the info I was seeking regarding the belaying point is in the Rigging Plan.  I guess that I spent too much time looking at the sail plan.  However, I did look at the rigging plan several times and missed the comment pointing to the sheet:  "4 inch hemp rope through sheave in bulwark and belayed on pinrail."    You were right Harry!

 

I had actually, given up searching and  had decided to add another set of bollards to mount aft of the pinrail for the crojack sheets.  I made two sets of the bollards from steel on my lathe and soldered them in place on a brass channel.  I made pins in the bollards to provide unnecessary support and alignment .   I also launched a single bollard into outerspace (or at least my ceiling) when I was parting it.   No use looking for that tiny part in my cluttered garage. 

 

Here's my handiwork. 

 

My first attempt at making bollards.  Not great, but better than the castings.  Now they aren't needed.  Oh well. 

 

 

 

Hi Marc,

I'm pleased you have sorted your rigging issue. (You are not the only one to "Not be able to see the wood for the trees!!" 🙂

 

Your Bollards look great and much improved over the kit castings.

 

Good to see your Lathe is getting some exercise.

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

[rwiederrich]

On 5/2/2022 at 10:07 AM, keelhauled said:

Crojack sheet mystery solved.

 

This is one of those cases where you've searched over the plans numerous times and missed the information in front of your face. Maybe this doesn't happen to you, it's only me. 

 

I posted the question under rigging on this site.  B.E answered with directing me to Longride's Cutty Sark book.  I had seen the information he referred me to which addressed the standing location of the sheet, but not the working portion of the sheet's belayed position.,

 

However, thanks to B.E., I went back through all of Campbell's pans again. comparing the Longridge info against Cambell's plans.  I found that the info I was seeking regarding the belaying point is in the Rigging Plan.  I guess that I spent too much time looking at the sail plan.  However, I did look at the rigging plan several times and missed the comment pointing to the sheet:  "4 inch hemp rope through sheave in bulwark and belayed on pinrail."    You were right Harry!

 

I had actually, given up searching and  had decided to add another set of bollards to mount aft of the pinrail for the crojack sheets.  I made two sets of the bollards from steel on my lathe and soldered them in place on a brass channel.  I made pins in the bollards to provide unnecessary support and alignment .   I also launched a single bollard into outerspace (or at least my ceiling) when I was parting it.   No use looking for that tiny part in my cluttered garage. 

 

Here's my handiwork. 

 

My first attempt at making bollards.  Not great, but better than the castings.  Now they aren't needed.  Oh well. 

 

 

 

Marc...I don't mean to be petty...but those are NOT bollards.  Bollards are found on pier side and are a single large drum like belaying structure....these are *BITTS*.

 

Rob

Edited May 5, 2022 by rwiederrich