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Posted

As a rule of thumb for me, the more obscuring the better.

D


Current Build - St. Roch, Billing Boats; HMS Agamemnon, Caldercraft (on hold)

Previous Builds - Armed Virginia Sloop, Model Shipways; Constitution, Model Shipways; Rattlesnake, Mamoli; Virginia Privateer, Marine Model Co, restoration; Prince de Neufchatel, Model Shipways; Charles W. Morgan, Model Shipways; Pride of Baltimore II, Model Shipways, Bluenose, Model Shipways (x2); Niagara, Model Shipways; Mayfower, Model Shipways; Shamrock V, Amati; HMS Pegasus, Victory/Amati

 

Posted (edited)

I completed the quarterdeck and cabin planking.  I've yet to place the treenails, though.  I completed bulkhead 5 and the picture shows me in the process of fitting it in place.  Lots of contour sanding to get the side edges of the bulkhead flush against the bulwark planking as well as in the right place on the deck.  No poly on the bulkhead yet, and the doorknobs have to be added.  Next I'll install the margin plank on the main deck and begin main deck planking.

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Edited by DocBlake
Posted
Posted

I finished the decking and treenailing.  I also fitted the bowsprit bit and the sprit itself.  No poly on the sprit, inboard bulwarks or deck.  The sprit needs some stop chocks for the forestay and the footrope stirrups.  I still need to frame the great cabin roof, install the rails and build the binnacle, great cabin lights, elmtree pumps, and windlass.  Still a lot to do!

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Posted

I see your scuppers turned out nice, great work. Your "painting with wood" is fantastic

Posted

Thanks, Guys!

 

I decided to build the elm tree pumps out of boxwood.  A milled the wood to an octagon shape and cut the pumps to length.  The supports and spouts were glued on and the handles were installed. Last came the metal work.  I drilled out the tops of the pump body and painted the insides black to simulate  hollowed out logs.  Same with the spigots.

 

I toyed with the idea of adding black reinforcing bands to the pump bodies, but maybe "less is more" and the pumps look cleaner without the bands.  What do you all think?

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Posted

Hey Dave, they look great as is, however, in reality what is holding them together? I'm with John and say bands are required but then you are the captain...

Posted

I vote for bands as well, but maybe you can use a 'gun metal' shade instead of black ? Maybe reduce the stark contrast a bit.....not sure if that would be correct though.

 

Joe

Joe Zappa

 

Member, Nautical Research Guild & Puget Sound Ship Modelers

Posted

Your workmanship is flawless! The pumps look pretty nice as they are, but I don't think black bands would be out of place at all. I would probably be adding them if it was my model.

David


Current Build - St. Roch, Billing Boats; HMS Agamemnon, Caldercraft (on hold)

Previous Builds - Armed Virginia Sloop, Model Shipways; Constitution, Model Shipways; Rattlesnake, Mamoli; Virginia Privateer, Marine Model Co, restoration; Prince de Neufchatel, Model Shipways; Charles W. Morgan, Model Shipways; Pride of Baltimore II, Model Shipways, Bluenose, Model Shipways (x2); Niagara, Model Shipways; Mayfower, Model Shipways; Shamrock V, Amati; HMS Pegasus, Victory/Amati

 

Posted

Thanks for the kind words and the "likes".

 

I think the bands might be necessary.  I don't think they were used to attach the support for the pump handle to the pump body:  that was probably just bolted on.  I think the reinforcing bands were there to prevent the top of the hollowed out log that forms the pump body from splitting along it's length  (with the grain).  Using elm, with it's interlocking grain, helps prevent this, but the constant racking stress from the pumping action at the top of the log would definitely lead to splits in the log without reinforcement.  If the log were circular I'd use brass, but since it's octagonal, it'll have to be card stock.

Posted

I added the reinforcing bands to the pumps.  I'm playing around with adding some furniture and a couple of paintings on the wall of the great cabin.  The portrait is stuck up there with double sided tape for the photo.

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Posted

I think the bands on the pumps look terrific.

D


Current Build - St. Roch, Billing Boats; HMS Agamemnon, Caldercraft (on hold)

Previous Builds - Armed Virginia Sloop, Model Shipways; Constitution, Model Shipways; Rattlesnake, Mamoli; Virginia Privateer, Marine Model Co, restoration; Prince de Neufchatel, Model Shipways; Charles W. Morgan, Model Shipways; Pride of Baltimore II, Model Shipways, Bluenose, Model Shipways (x2); Niagara, Model Shipways; Mayfower, Model Shipways; Shamrock V, Amati; HMS Pegasus, Victory/Amati

 

Posted

Hello DocBlake,

 

maybe I missed it, but could you tell me what kind of wood did you use to create the frames and the deck supporting beams ?

 

Regards, Zoran

Posted

I thought the picture frame on the portrait is too wide, so I cut in down and repainted it.  Does anyone recognize who is depicted in the portrait?

 

Zoran:  The hull, counter and transom framing is hard maple.  The counter planking is swiss pear.  The inboard bulwark planking is red heart.  The deck framing is cherry and the deck planking is holly.

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Posted (edited)

Hmmm... who is in the picture?  Well, it's not Patrick Henry.  Since it's circa 1768, I will guess King George III.?

 

Edit:  I know my answer is not correct.  I have been scanning tons of portrait images from the time period but cannot find a match!!!  

Edited by mrshanks

Mike Shanks

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I'm starting to prepare the great cabin for framing.  The roof deck clamps are in place and the aft-most roof beam has been glued to the transom framing.  the problem is that the framing is too long and sticks up above the beam.  I used my new Hishika saw to easily saw through the maple frames and remove them.  I now need to fit each beam so that the roof (poop deck) sits flush on each and flows smoothly from the bulkhead of the great cabin to the stern.  The first photo shows two frames cut, and the others too long.  The second shows the Hishika saw cutting the framing, and the third is the final result.

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Posted

John:  The frame trimming took about 15 minutes total. The saw is awesome, and it's size makes it perfect for model work.  Here's a link to Clare Hess' site that explains the saw and where to get it.  I ordered it from Japan and it arrived in about 2 weeks;

 

https://shipmodeler.wordpress.com/2015/05/19/a-super-fine-cut-japanese-hobby-saw-hishika-industries/

Posted

These Japanese saws are amazing. I have one dozuki (not sure if the brand is Hishika or not) and it has become almost indispensable.

David


Current Build - St. Roch, Billing Boats; HMS Agamemnon, Caldercraft (on hold)

Previous Builds - Armed Virginia Sloop, Model Shipways; Constitution, Model Shipways; Rattlesnake, Mamoli; Virginia Privateer, Marine Model Co, restoration; Prince de Neufchatel, Model Shipways; Charles W. Morgan, Model Shipways; Pride of Baltimore II, Model Shipways, Bluenose, Model Shipways (x2); Niagara, Model Shipways; Mayfower, Model Shipways; Shamrock V, Amati; HMS Pegasus, Victory/Amati

 

Posted

Because I totally rebuilt the transom in the kit, using a plywood base, planked with pear and overlayed with a boxwood trim, the upper edge of the transom is not particularly attractive.  The kit doesn't provide a taff rail because the stock transom is solid cherry hardwood with no plywood involved.  I decided to add a taff rail made of boxwood.  I soaked the wood then bent it around a template of the top of the transom.  Nails hold it in place.  I'll let it dry for 48 hours, then dye it black with Fiebring"s black leather dye.  It will be glued in place after the great cabin cap rails are fitted.

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