HMS Victory 1805 by Robert29 - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:72

[Malcolm Greig]

Excellent ratlines, very tidy. Looking really good.

 

Malcolm 

[Robert29]

Thank you for your comments Heinz and Malcolm.

 

Finally finished the never ending rat lines.  Here are a few photos.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now I think I will start working on the Stays. I still have to do the topgallant shrouds, but I think I will leave them for a later stage as I think they will be a bit in the way when I do the backstays.  I will see as I go along.

 

Robert

[Charter33]

Magnificent work Robert,,,,,,

[Heinz6672]

I wish I had those skills with rigging my Victory ...

[Robert29]

Thank you Charter, Heinz and all for the likes.  

 

Heinz,  ha, ha, when I go through your Victory build I say the same thing, 'Wish I have his skills"!!!! I admire your beautiful work. 

 

Robert

 

Regards

[Heinz6672]

Thanks Robert, 

But right now I feel like I'm pushing my limits.

I love working with wood and getting creative. But the thing with the threads doesn't want to work out the way I'd like it to. It starts with not understanding the plans and ends with it not looking the way I imagine it or see it in yours and others builds. 

 

So you really have my respect for your work!

 

Best

Heinz

 

[tomganc]

Fantastic job, I wish I was at this stage already

Your Victory looks amazing and well done with rigging. It's a pure pleasure to the eyes  

[Robert29]

Tomganc, thank you for your nice comment.

 

I started on the Mizzen Stay.  It went without a hitch. This stay was made from 1mm thread.  Then I came to do the Main Preventer Stay, which is made up of 1.8mm thread and a problem broke up.  I noticed that as soon as I put some tension on the 1.8mm thread, supplied with the kit, it just breaks up in two.  With all the rest if the thread supplied with the kit I had no problem.  Even the 0.1mm thread is stronger than this.  I decided not to use it, but the problem is that the only 1.8mm thread that I could source is either the same brand I have which I am afraid I will be faced with the same problem or else a different brand, but dark brown not black.  Would appreciate any advice from where I can source it.

 

Mizzen stay.

 

 

Mouse

 

 

The 1.8mm thread after a bit of tension like when you try to pass it through a bee wax block.

 

Robert

[Ian_Grant]

Robert,  On my Heller Victory I could not find black thread of the correct size for the mainstay. I bought natural colour and used black fabric dye to colour it. You could colour the brown thread if its manufacturer is on your approved list.

[mort stoll]

Syren Ship Models has 2.0 dark brown rigging thread.

 

Hope this helps. Keep up your outstanding work.

Mort

 

[mort stoll]

Sorry also meant to also include that CMB has 1.8 Caldercraft Rigging thread.

[Ensign Smith]

34 minutes ago, mort stoll said:

Sorry also meant to also include that CMB has 1.8 Caldercraft Rigging thread.

Hi guys, awesome builds. I use your bulid logs to inspire my own build. I see in your logs, that you are referering to CMB.. What site is it? 

Regards, Pål

[Charter33]

CMB = Cornwall Model Boats.

In the UK especially, but not exclusively, a 'go to' source for model boat kits, model making tools and, from personal experience, spares  and supplies for when things don't go according to plan and you need to dig yourself out of a hole.....! 

(no, I have no connection with them, other than as a satisfied customer,  grateful that they are a reliable company, there when I need them...) 

 

[Robert29]

Thanks for all your feedback, much appreciated.

 

Pal, as Charter 33 has commented CMB are very good suppliers in UK.  I usually buy everything from them.  They have a very good service and nice to deal with, in fact I purchased my Caldercraft HMS Victory from them.  Also used them a lot to buy other stuff, such as paint, planks, eyelets, thread, even very small diameter brass tubes which I used for the lantern supports as I had to pass very small wiring through them because I fitted an led in them.  Their postage charges are very reasonable as well.

This is their site: https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/

 

Mort I didn't  go for the Caldercraft 1.8mm from CMB is because the one I have is the one that came with my Caldercraft kit and since it is the same brand I am afraid it will be the same. Strangely enough the 1.8mm was the only size with this problem.  I don't know if other builders with the same kit had the same problem.

 

Ian, that is a good idea and if I don't solve it that is probably what I will do.  But in the meantime Helli emailed me a supplier's address in Germany who stock the 1.75mm in black and apparently good quality. I ordered it and waiting for a reply.

 

Thanks again

Robert

[paul carruthers]

Beautiful  build, well done.

[leginseel]

On 2/10/2016 at 5:06 PM, Robert29 said:

Today is a public holiday here and did some work on the Victory.  I decided to prepare the holes for the cannons on the dummy barrel strips.  One main reason is because at the back of the strips I have the wiring for the gunport leds and if I damage any of them when drilling there is no way I can get to them after I plank the hull.

 

Ian

I took your advice, I think this is the area you referred to.  I added filler blocks just at the base. Thanks.

 

 

I made a jig to centre the holes, but when I started drilling I was not very happy with the result.  A couple of the cannons were coming out of the gun ports at an angle sideways.  I realised the jig was too short.

 

I extended the jig and drew some parallel lines on top to guideme keep it at right angle with the patterns.  Worked fine.  I blanked with a dowel the two I didn't like and drilled them again.

 

Cannons dry fitted

 

Robert

 

 

Genius idea with the jig.  I have been scratching my head on how to achieve the correct cannon fitting angle.  Thank you I will borrow this if I may.

 

[leginseel]

Robert, I’m only on my first planking but find myself time and time again coming back to your wonderful log for reference. I cannot hope to match your skill and patience but I thank you for such an informative build, I have it constantly open near my bench!!

[leginseel]

On 9/23/2017 at 11:52 AM, Robert29 said:

Thank you Heinz, and thank you for the likes.

 

Donn,  thank you for your comment,  much appreciated.  The material I used for the quarter gallery is all the once supplied with the kit.  I can't really complain for the wood supplied with the kit.  Up to now the only strips I had to change was the walnut 1mm x 16 mm which is used to line the gunports.  It's thickness was 0.8mm instead of 1mm and very brittle.  It kept splitting in two easily whist trying to trim it down to size.  But otherwise the rest was very good.

 

Robert

I’m reading ahead as I’ve not got this far with my build yet, but do you think soaking the walnut before cutting might help?

[mort stoll]

I have always soaked walnut before cutting or bending/shaping.

 

Mort

[Robert29]

Hi Nigel, sorry for the very late reply, but the last couple of weeks have not been so good for me, unfortunately one of my brothers has been diagnosed  with serious health problems and I was'nt opening  the forum. To cut the walnut I didn't find it really necessary to wet it, if it's very thin I use a blade and if its ticker I use a small hand saw with very fine teeth with a mitre box.  I have two of them, one with 24 tpi and another 42 tpi. But for bending I find it a must to wet the walnut. I wet it, use an electric heat bender and sometimes keep wetting it during the process.

 

In the meantime I have received the rope for the  stays and carried some work on them.  I will soon upload a post with the progress.

 

Ronert

[Robert29]

A small update.

 

Stays and Preventer Stays for the lower masts in place.  For theFore and Main stays I used the rope I ordered which found very good.  The loop for the Topmast and Topgallant stays has to go round the mast over the loops for the backstays.  So basically the topmast and topgallant stays cannot be fitted before the backstays are in place.  I started the snaking on the main stay and preventer stay but I did not like how they looked.  I tried the marlin hitch knot as indicated in the manual, but somehow the knotdid not look right.  Hope I was doing the right way.  I will try a different way.

 

 

 

 

I will start working on the backstays so I will be able to continue with the stays. 

 

Robert

Edited March 13, 2022 by Robert29

[Robert29]

Thank you for the likes.

 

I finished the snaking on the main stays and the preventer stays.  I used a separate individual piece of thread to tie every point the snaking thread meets the stays.

 

I also completed the Topgallant Shrouds and attached all the backstays to the masts.

 

The Topgallant shrouds were passed from behind the staves and rigged as shown in photo.

 

After the topgallant shrouds I continued the work on the Mizen backstays. 

The Standing backstay is very straightforward, it is attached to the channel with deadeye.  The Mizzen Topmast Shifting Backstay requires a tackle.

 

Hook seized with 3mm since block and falls seized into the ****.  A 3mm double block is seized into the lower end of the backstay.

 

 

Mizzen Topmast Backstays rigged in place and the Mizzen Stay and the Mizzen Topmast Stay also rigged in place.

 

Image shows where the tackle is hooked to the eyelet on the channel which was prepared far back. 

 

 

Next step is the rigging of the backstays on the main mast. 

 

Robert

[mort stoll]

Hi Robert,

Really appreciate your log. It's fantastic. What size line did you use to rig the foremast 10mm blocks?

 

Thanks,

Mort 

 

 

 

[Kusawa2000]

On 2/10/2021 at 5:46 AM, Robert29 said:

Hi Graham, thankyou for your encouragement.  Enjoy your retirement, now is the time to try and catch up to do things you did not find time for before.  Pity you are not updating your build anymore, I am sure you are doing a great job on your Victory.  I am retired as well, to be honest I cannot imagine myself without the access to a computer, as I use it for a lot of other things apart from this forum, such as my other hobby, photography.  

 

Anthony, thank you for your comments.  I have another small update.  I continued the work on the hammock cranes.  I really wanted to finish them because I was worried that I was going to loose some of the brass etched cranes.  I counted them every time I handled them to trim them, blacken, etc. In fact I was short a couple of times and had to really look hard for them, finding them on the floor.  There are no extra once with the kit, you have the exact quantity.  I also rigged the hand rails for the stairs leading to the poop deck. 

 

 

 

 

 

I had started with the Hammock cranes on the forecastle, and after I did the rest I decided that the netting on he forecastle was a bit too stretched, so I took the off and did them again, cutting the net slightly wider. 

 

 

 

Robert

 

 

  

Robert: I stumbled on your pics of your hammock netting for you Victory and I have to let you know its the best hammock netting I have seen. I have struggled over the years in finding the best material for hammock netting and it appears you have hit the mark. Could you pass along what did you use for Hammock netting and what was your process of weaving them into the brackets. I checked all of your posts and didnt find any information so I hope you can pass along any information. Thanks ahead of time!

 

Mike Draper

[mort stoll]

Hi Robert,

Also what size thread did you use for the mat head lashings? Don't see it in the manual.

 

Thanks,

Mort

[Robert29]

20 hours ago, mort stoll said:

Hi Robert,

Really appreciate your log. It's fantastic. What size line did you use to rig the foremast 10mm blocks?

 

Thanks,

Mort 

 

 

 

Hi Mort,  I am assuming you meant the 10mm Jeer Blocks.  I used 1mm thread.

 

16 hours ago, mort stoll said:

Hi Robert,

Also what size thread did you use for the mat head lashings? Don't see it in the manual.

 

Thanks,

Mort

 

The Mast Head Lashings are made up of seven turns of 0.5mm black thread. 

 

Regards

Robert

[Robert29]

19 hours ago, Kusawa2000 said:

Robert: I stumbled on your pics of your hammock netting for you Victory and I have to let you know its the best hammock netting I have seen. I have struggled over the years in finding the best material for hammock netting and it appears you have hit the mark. Could you pass along what did you use for Hammock netting and what was your process of weaving them into the brackets. I checked all of your posts and didnt find any information so I hope you can pass along any information. Thanks ahead of time!

 

Mike Draper

 

Hi Mike, thank you.

 

As I had said earlier the netting took me quite a long time to find some acceptable material to look as realistic as possible.  I tried using tulle but didn’t like it.  I tried to find something from hobby suppliers on line with no luck.  Then as a last resort I tried a local drapery shop and when I was on the verge of giving up I noticed this material.  I think it is some sort of a material to be used as a mosquito net, not sure.  It has 16 squares per inch. It was only available in white or very light cream (nearly white).  I bought a meter of it and did some tests.

 

Close up 

 

First thing I noticed was that it was to whitish.  The material was polyester so it doesn’t really absorb much.  I tried leaving a piece in a cup of tea, and it did darken a bit.

 

I tried to measure the width I needed to go inside the cranes.  The material is made up pf very fine threads intertwined with each other when crossing each other.  So I trimmed the netting to the width required from just a bit above from where they crossed each other (sketch 1). With the fist try they did not look good, the edge of the net was protruding up over the crane railing.

 

Doesn't look good.

 

I tried another piece but this time cut the netting exactly from the point they cross each other, as in sketch 2.  The problem was that when I started sewing the net in place with the thread (railing) across the hammock cranes, edge started to open apart from where they crossed each other as shown in sketch 4.

 

I tried another piece trimmed exactly where they cross each other and dabbed each edge crossing with CA glue. This kept them from coming apart.   The manual tells you to use 0.1mm thread loped from one  Hammock crane to the other, but I used the 0.25mm thread so that it will hide a bit more the edge of the net.

 

To sew the net to the railing I used the normal Gutermann sewing thread (cream colour). With a needle I went through every edge crossing as shown in sketch 4.  I tied the net to the crane bottom corners with a piece of thread to keep it in place.  When finished I applied a coat of water down PVA glue all along the railing thread and the sewing thread. To keep it in place.

 

End result.  It is not as white as it looks in the photo.  

 

I can’t say I found it easy, it was quite tedious and did a few tries before getting them to my satisfaction.  Even getting the net the right width was tricky.  There were instances where it was  too wide and I had to remove again, trim and glue edge crossings again and sew in place again, or the opposite too narrow and had to make a new net again just a bit wider.

 

I think the extra effort was worth it as its a pity to have so much work on the model and then have the nets look so unrealistic.

 

Hope this is of help.  Unfortunately I cannot Indicate a brand or anything for the net as I bought it from a drapery store that sells by the meter the store doesn’t do online selling.

 

Robert

 

Edited April 13, 2022 by Robert29

[Kusawa2000]

3 hours ago, Robert29 said:

 

Hi Mike, thank you.

 

As I had said earlier the netting took me quite a long time to find some acceptable material to look as realistic as possible.  I tried using tulle but didn’t like it.  I tried to find something from hobby suppliers on line with no luck.  Then as a last resort I tried a local drapery shop and when I was on the verge of giving up I noticed this material.  I think it is some sort of a material to be used as a mosquito net, not sure.  It has 16 squares per inch. It was only available in white or very light cream (nearly white).  I bought a meter of it and did some tests.

 

Close up 

 

First thing I noticed was that it was to whitish.  The material was polyester so it doesn’t really absorb much.  I tried leaving a piece in a cup of tea, and it did darken a bit.

 

I tried to measure the width I needed to go inside the cranes.  The material is made up pf very fine threads intertwined with each other when crossing each other.  So I trimmed the netting to the width required from just a bit above from where they crossed each other (sketch 1). With the fist try they did not look good, the edge of the net was protruding up over the crane railing.

 

Doesn't look good.

 

I tried another piece but this time cut the netting exactly from the point they cross each other, as in sketch 2.  The problem was that when I started sewing the net in place with the thread (railing) across the hammock cranes, edge started to open apart from where they crossed each other as shown in sketch 4.

 

I tried another piece trimmed exactly where they cross each other and dabbed each edge crossing with CA glue. This kept them from coming apart.   The manual tells you to use 0.1mm thread loped from one  Hammock crane to the other, but I used the 0.25mm thread so that it will hide a bit more the edge of the net.

 

To sew the net to the railing I used the normal Gutermann sewing thread (cream colour). With a needle I went through every edge crossing as shown in sketch 4.  I tied the net to the crane bottom corners with a piece of thread to keep it in place.  When finished I applied a coat of water down PVA glue all along the railing thread and the sewing thread. To keep it in place.

 

End result.  It is not as white as it looks in the photo.  

 

I can’t say I found it easy, it was quite tedious and did a few tries before getting them to my satisfaction.  Even getting the net the right width was tricky.  There were instances where it was  too wide and I had to remove again, trim and glue edge crossings again and sew in place again, or the opposite too narrow and had to make a new net again just a bit wider.

 

I think the extra effort was worth it as its a pity to have so much work on the model and then have the nets look so unrealistic.

 

Hope this is of help.  Unfortunately I cannot Indicate a brand or anything for the net as I bought it from a drapery store that sells by the meter the store doesn’t do online selling.

 

Robert

 

Robert: Wow.. Couldn't asked for a better pot of information. I will definitely start looking for the material in clothing and drapery stores. Having your pictures in my pocket will definitely help. And I really appreciate your sketch work on how you applied it. I totally agree with you on having a good material for the hammock netting is crucial. I havent found any yet that works for me and as a result I have gone without with my models. Now I have something to look for.. Thanks again! 

 

Mike Draper

Whitehorse, Yukon

[Robert29]

More work on the stays and backstays.  

The Fore Topmast Preventer Stay and the Fore Topmast Stay passing through the sheaves in the bee of the bowsprit and their respective blocks seized at the ends with the falls also seized into their ars. They are to be belayed to the knightheads.  

The Mizzen Topgallent Stay secured to a span around the main top trestletrees.  The Main Topgallent Stay secured the same to a Span around the fore top trestletrees. They are not tensioned yet.

 

Span with thimble for topgallant stays as shown in Longridge's book. 

 

 

When I came to the Jib Stays, the manual tells you the standing end is made fast at the end notch of the Jibboom.  Looking into Longridge's book it is made fast to a 'traveller'.  The manual has completely omitted this traveller.  After studying the rigging that goes to this traveller, of which some in the manual is rigged to a different point on the Jibboom and the Flying Jibboom,  I decided to include the two travellers.  It was pretty confusing for me to find what goes where.

 

So with a diagram from Longridge I had a go at the travellers.  About the blocks, I am not sure yet if I will include them as I am thinking that on such a scale it might start to be too busy.

 

Ring and shackle made up of brass rod, thimbles made up of brass tube and hook from extra small hooks supplied with the kit.  Ends of ring and shackle soldered together.  

 

Robert

Edited April 23, 2022 by Robert29

[Charter33]

Stunning attention to detail, as ever, Robert! Brilliant....