1:200 Trumpeter Iowa and Pontos Detail Set

[CDW]

I recently bought the 1:200 Trumpeter Iowa, and am considering whether to buy the Pontos Detail Set either with or without the wooden deck.

My question/concern is, how the heck do you apply the deck, assemble all the details, then paint the model without ruining the deck?

Just looking at detailed photos of the set on the net, it is readily apparent the deck must be applied at an early stage of building the model, then all the many detailed parts are added. If the detailed parts were built first, installed and painted, the deck could not be laid in place (it appears to me).

So, does anyone know how it's done? I don't know, but it may be a bridge too far for me, beyond my skill level.

I only have about 50 years of experience with this hobby, and even after all this time and difficult projects completed, some look very daunting to put it mildly. This is one.

 

Any thoughts?

 

PS: maybe I would be well enough off just to build the kit out of the box with maybe just adding some upgraded gun barrels. The kit does bring numerous photo etch detail sheets all on its own without any aftermarket at all. 

[mtaylor]

Have you had a look at the build logs in the kit area?  There's builds such as the Emden, Bismarck, Basilone, etc.  Not the same kit or the photo etch but I'd think the principles would apply.

[CDW]

Have you had a look at the build logs in the kit area?  There's builds such as the Emden, Bismarck, Basilone, etc.  Not the same kit or the photo etch but I'd think the principles would apply.

Thanks!

 

Just did a search and briefly looked through some of the various build threads. Wow - seems they build all the PE details first, paint, and sort into sub assemblies so basically, most all the painting is done before assembly/attaching to the deck.

 

Read where one modeler said assembly of the Pontos detail set is approximately a 3 month project all by itself.  

[Kevin]

Daddy Rabbit

 

good evening,

The hull is built up and has all PE added then primed and painted including the deck so that all the bits that pass through the wooden deck have a paint coat on them and avoid lots of masking later on

then add the wooden deck, which is sticky backed

most of the superstructure is module built and added at a later stage 

 

Good luck with the build

[Kevin]

this will be a good thread to follow

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8967-uss-iowa-by-channell-trumpeter-plastic-1200-superdetail-build/

 

and 

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4613-uss-new-jersey-bb-62-67-69-by-hank-trumpeter-1200-plastic/page-4?hl=trumpeter

Edited January 9, 2016 by Kevin

[channell]

I'm assuming this would be your first foray into superdetailing sets for big kits? if so, man are you picking a scary ambitious place to start!

 

Anyway, here's how I approach these things:

 

1st, build assemblies in manageable sections... clean up superstructure parts, scrape off detail/parts that are getting replaced with PE and assemble/erase seams. Next prime and install PE that can't be cleanly added after painting (for example, guns, floater net baskets, railings and tiny deck details are best assembled/painted separately  and added last), then paint with final color. After that, install decks (they go on just like stickers, you just have to be careful to align them properly as you only get 1 shot at it) and then add the little stuff.

 

Then move on to the next section and repeat the process again.

 

My Iowa (the log Kevin mentioned) is in limbo but I'm currently working on a 1/200 Nelson  + Pontos over on Model Warships which will give you a good idea of what you'd be getting yourself into: http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=160389

 

In my opinion the Pontos stuff is definitely worth it as it REALLY takes the kit to a whole new level of awesomeness.

 

Be forewarned though... the 1/200 Iowa/Missouri is not for the faint of heart as-is and the Pontos stuff will easily double the length and intensity of your build. Pontos is also known for having difficult to interpret instructions that are riddled with errors... it won't be a "paint by numbers" project and will require plenty of research, planning and forethought to pull off well. The total amount of work will run into the hundreds of hours and it will be a LONG term project, so plan on that too.

Edited January 12, 2016 by channell

[CDW]

Channell

 

The work you did to correct the Iowa hull to the proper shape was very impressive. Not only did the conversion require a lot of work, you had to search and find an appropriate set of 3D drawing, or at least some that had sufficient cross-section detail to allow the conversion. 

Personally, I wouldn't want to spend the time to do that much correction. With a ship of this size and complexity, maybe I should reconsider that attitude. If I am going to go to the trouble to spends months adding a detail set, why not correct the hull while I'm at it. At least I will have your pictures and comments as a how-to guide.

[normanh]

I have the USS Arizona with the former White Ensign etch kits and a wooden combi and lots more work, just watch the bonding of the deck with mine I had to use a spray adhesive and the veneer is so thin light has penetrated the wood and killed the spray glue and given a few bubbles. Not too sure on how the self adhesive decks fair.. But above all wood terrific - must finish my model its 95% there and publish the build pics.

 

Norman

[PAnderson]

Certainly not to scare you off but you are in for one heck of a wild ride. I am currently building the 1/200 USS Missouri. The hull is painted up to the deck. My first attempt at the wood deck failed. It went all bubbly on me, probably from the few attempts to lay it down and get it aligned. But the Pontos set is wonderful if you are a glutton for punishment like I am. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12396-uss-missouri-1200-by-panderson-trumpeter-plastic/.

 

I am building this in sub assemblies from the deck up. I have another wood deck because the first had to be stripped up. I read that if you lightly brush water on the sticky backside before laying down, this gives you some time to move it around before it sets. I think thoroughly cleaning the deck with mineral spirits or alcohol will help.

 

As you will see, I am doing most of the photo etch before all the sub assemblies get attached to the deck and super structure. I will do as much as possible then it will be spray primed then painted. I also have the 20 Veteran Models Bofors guns to do also. I'm lucky, she is going to be painted Haze Grey from the deck up as she was in Tokyo Bay for the signing ceremony.

 

If I may, I will pull up a chair and watch your work.

 

Paul

[CDW]

In my plastic ship model stash, I have a number kits that have been around and in my possession quite a few years. One is the 1:350 Trumpeter USS Essex carrier; another is the 1:350 Tamiya King George V. Just to get some experience on a less expensive model first, I may buy a wood deck for the KGV and do it first, just for practice. That way, if I make mistakes I won't feel so badly about it. With that kit, I also have an old Gold Medal PE set, and a set of metal gun barrels and props. It should be good experience and practice before tackling the Iowa.

I have realized the Pontos detail set for the Essex is maybe just as complex as the Iowa. So I won't try that kit first.

 

Craig

[PAnderson]

Hey Craig, the Pontos set is well thought out. Don't be afraid of it. Plan and check against the photos and the Trumpeter instructions.. Folding is key, you only get one chance. But they fold into beautiful works of art. There were many times I said I can't do anymore. But once you start, you are hooked. Things like ladders and stairs and railings simply can't be put in place after the super structure is glued on the deck. That's where you must make the choice of whether to just use the plastic parts. Those are also pretty good.

 

Paul

[CDW]

Paul

 

Does the deck use a contact cement that's been pre-applied, or is it something else? In one thread, I saw the modeler slightly peel the paper backing from the bottom of the deck and then get it started. As he aligned it, he slowly peeled the backing away, pressing the deck down as he went.

Was that your experience with applying the deck?

 

Craig 

[PAnderson]

Craig, the deck is indeed self adhesive. And very strong. If you let too much come in contact, you will have a heck of a time getting it up again. I think that is what happened to mine. The alignment is so precise around deck features that a small mis alignment is bad. I never  tried doing it the way you describe. I'll have to think about that when I redo mine.  My deck, and yours too probably, comes in three pieces. I suppose you can cut the larger pieces into more manageable pieces. Once it's down, it all falls into place great.

 

Paul