HMS Sirius 1797 by paulsutcliffe - 1:48 - POF from NMM plans

[paulsutcliffe]

remade fire door, oven door on the other side, flue access and ash door i also added the fire bars on the front

 

 

 

 

[paulsutcliffe]

On the subject of the stone tile underneath, i was looking at some pictures online of the victory, endeavour and trincomalee  they appear to have square tiles on top of a metal sheet,as robin pointed out earlier, but in the ATOS Diana the plan shows the tiles underneath the plate basically on top of the beams

any suggestions

 

also the pictures from the victory which i know is a reproduction appear to show square terracotta style tiles as you used to have in industrial kitchens??

Edited April 26, 2016 by paulsutcliffe

[mtaylor]

Hmm... the only problem I see with Terra Cotta tiles like a restaurant kitchen is that they get really slippery when wet.

 

However, go with what you feel is right in absence of any hard data.

[Gerhardvienna]

Hmm... the only problem I see with Terra Cotta tiles like a restaurant kitchen is that they get really slippery when wet.

 

However, go with what you feel is right in absence of any hard data.

 

 

I would expect clincer floor, maybe you could take a look at this

https://www.mtextur.com/materials/12105?locale=de-CH

I made the floor for the SMS DANZIG kitchen as a clincered one, just printed one out after scaling to right dimensions.

 

Regards

Gerhard

[paulsutcliffe]

thanks robin, mark and Gerhard great idea and thanks for the link and all the likes

so do we agree the tiles/stones would go on top of the iron plate under the stove?, I also read somewhere about sand covering the tile/stone but don't fancy trying to model that

 

I'm leaning towards a metal plate with turned up edges as robin said then stone tiles on top, but not sure whether they should be square or rectangular but laid brick fashion with lighter mortar between

Edited April 27, 2016 by paulsutcliffe

[Canute]

I would think rectangular bricks mortared in the pan would be appropriate. The brick would insulate the stove from the pan and hence the ship's decking.

[paulsutcliffe]

managed to do some more on the Brodie stove, spit arms, pot hanging racks and the front cowl above the fire grate, all working and moving in and out, some cleaning up to and trim the hinge bolts on the cowl

I have also painted matt black one side panel, looks a bit retro with the black and shiny brass??/

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[druxey]

Looks like you are almost ready to roast a whole quail on that, Paul! It looks very functional.

[WackoWolf]

I agree with all the others, and excellent job on the stove. Thank you for sharing this with us. 

[Canute]

Your Brodie stove is a beauty, Paul.

[paulsutcliffe]

thanks for the nice comments and likes, druxey i could probably just about fit a quail breast on the spit when youre ready for dinner

[paulsutcliffe]

Brodie stove completed,

except for the chain to drive the spits its more or less finished, a bit more cleaning up and paint touch up to do

 

 

 

 

and in situ on the boat, now onto the fire bricks/plate and then back to knees-lovely

 

 

 

 

ive ordered some scale bricks from an internet site to see how they will look for the plate under the stove, not sure how to make the lime mortar as robin points out or even how to fasten them in but will have to experiment when they arrive

Edited May 3, 2016 by paulsutcliffe

[WackoWolf]

Time to eat

[Gerhardvienna]

Can i order my medium steaks now?

PERFECT!

 

Regards

Gerhard

[mtaylor]

That is one remarkable stove, Paul.  Well done!

[paulsutcliffe]

Thanks for all the comments and likes, Gerhard medium rare would be much better-got to have a little blood!!

 

The scale bricks arrived today so i laid a few out to see what they would look like, I really like colours but still have no idea how to make the lime mortar/grouting

 

any suggestions??

 

Edited May 4, 2016 by paulsutcliffe

[mtaylor]

Paul,

What are the bricks made of?  For grout, maybe some glue with paint mixed in although I have no idea what would work.   I wonder what the railroad guys use?

[druxey]

One might consider Polyfilla or a similar compound. I would add a little color into it to tone it down.

[Canute]

If it was sheet plastic bricks, with brick faces and grout lines, a gray paint wash would work. Apply and wipe off the face of the bricks quickly, leaving the paint in the joints only.

 

With real (scale) bricks, you might try a spackling/joint compound, used on drywall. Color it a medium or darker gray. You'd have to force it into the joints or try to actually fasten the bricks with the mortar. As you build up the brick floor, attach the bricks to the brass, leaving enough room between the bricks, for the "mortar".

[Morgan]

Paul,

 

Look at minaturebrickbargains on eBay, they sell a grout mix for minature bricks.

 

Gary

[paulsutcliffe]

thanks Mark, Druxey, Ken and Gary some great suggestions, mark the bricks are ceramic I think but they snap in half very easily so I'm not sure I always thought ceramic was really hard

 

I did try last night to glue two together with a drop of pva with some white paint mixed in as mark suggested, but they hadn't stuck when I had a quick look earlier, polyfilla sounds like a good idea to try first as readily available

 

Gary thanks for the link, I didn't find that ebay shop when I was searching for the bricks or I could have ordered together cheers

Edited May 5, 2016 by paulsutcliffe

[EdT]

I have a thought on this that may be worth pursuing with some additional research.  Refractory brick set on a flexible metal plate may not have had mortared joints.  Any such joints would soon crack with the flexing of the deck.  Mortar that worked loose would soon leave gaps, allowing radiant heat from the stove to reach the plate (or deck?) below.  The brick or stone may have been contained in a frame and held closely like the joints shown in your photo.  In the Victory restoration the brick (or stone) floor is contained with a wood frame outside the stove perimeter.  If mortared, I believe the joints would be very thin - at least that is the current practice in my experience with refractory linings.

 

I believe I would go without mortar,  but that's just a guess.  Something to chew on.

 

Ed

[paulsutcliffe]

thanks robin and ed for your comments

Ed I think you have hit the nail on the head and that is the way to go, I mentioned the movement of the wood earlier and there being no sense having the fire brick under the plate either

I recently read somewhere about a layer of sand on top of the bricks, could that be the way the gaps were filled, I think it was the hmb endeavour stove I was reading about that mentioned the sand and some pictures of it on the internet

[mtaylor]

Interesting thoughts and research, Ed.   I wonder, would a layer of sand been put down between the metal and the brick?  I've seen this on friend's firepit they built on their deck and never thought about it until I read your post. 

[paulsutcliffe]

thanks robin, ed and mark for the info and suggestions, and everyone's likes,  I think I will try it both ways and see how it looks, the bricks came in a packet of 500 so I don't need to worry to much about wasting a few

I can use some pva with paint added to give the effect but stick them to the base first, I did try sanding one with a very fine diamond file and it created a very fine dust which I could also use maybe between the bricks

[paulsutcliffe]

Brodie stove fire bricks

i tried fastening down the bricks with pva but that doesnt work, so i fastened to the brass with industrial CA,this is the version with glued down bricks sanded over with a diamond file

 

[paulsutcliffe]

a beautiful day today and im going on holiday for two weeks tomorrow so i took the opportunity to take some photos outside in the sun, i have just finished the gun deck this weekend , just need to remake the capstan and  a few other bits like guns!!! i oiled the starboard side just before the pictures so its a bit shiny in places but nice to be out in the sun from the garage

 

 

 

 

 

i have also added the tiller sweep and the cross pieces with sheaves for the tiller ropes which can be seen in this last photo

 

thanks everybody and see you in a couple of weeks

[druxey]

Enjoy your holidays, Paul!

[WackoWolf]

Beautiful looking. Have a nice Holiday

[archjofo]

Very nice work!