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Posted

The carlings and beams are in place.  Knees are next.  Then I'll move aft with more beams.  It will soon be time to lay out the partners.

 

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Maury

Posted

Hello Maury,

 

Just read your build log from the beginning and wanted to stick my head in to say what a fantastic job your doing.  Beautiful workmanship.  Such an interesting vessel and you have some very interesting conversations going on here.  I look forward to following your progress.

 

Gary

Current Build   Pelican Eastern-Rig Dragger  

 

Completed Scratch Builds

Rangeley Guide Boat   New England Stonington Dragger   1940 Auto Repair Shop   Mack FK Shadowbox    

 

Posted

Thank you all for the likes and especially the comments.  Gary, the boat is certainly interesting and it's proving to be a great modeling experience.  I no longer strain at the bit and get impatient. Of course three masts and 34, or even 16 guns would probably change that.  "Each piece is a model unto itself."  There are plenty of mistakes along the way, and I'm very grateful foe all the help and comments.

Maury

Posted

The knees are in place for the first four beams.

post-923-0-50574200-1481637349.jpg

 

If I keep going fore to aft with the beams, I think I have to get the mast partners drawn up and installed.  I have the layout of partner pieces from my Echo Section build.  Seems a reasonable place to start.  I'll pull more info. from Yedlinsky.    Lining up the hole with the mast step needs to be done, so a temporary mast needs to be set.

Maury

Posted

Mast Partners.  I've reviewed the details of mast partners from TFFM.  I'll use the same basic layout, adjusted to fit between the deck beams.  That involves locating where the mast passes through the deck.  I used the gantry again to line up a temporary mast (square section at the largest diameter is at the partners). Allowing for a very slight rake, I now know where the hole in the partners needs to be.

 

post-923-0-64545600-1481903965.jpg

 

post-923-0-99723400-1481904947_thumb.jpg

 

Picture pasted in MS Paint looks crude, but you get the idea.  There are some odd angles to where the cross chocks meet the carlings and the partners will be visible, so special attention needs to be paid.  The hole will be rounded and a bit larger than the mast to allow for wedges.

 

Maury

Posted

It's a good thing I lay awake thinking about the plans...I forgot to add the step for the spencer mast to the partners.  It is an 8 5/8" diameter mortice in the partners about 2" aft the main mast.

Maury

Posted

Druxey, Thank you.  I can find a block of wood somewhere in the scrap bin.  Just a  morticed block bolted to the deck on top of the partner?

Posted (edited)

I think it was Ed Tosti's recent posts that had me awake thinking about the spencer mast.  If anyone has any drawings of how the mast seated, please share.  Thanks for all the likes and especially the comments.

Maury

Edited by Maurys
Posted

I am without power tools for a while so I'm working on the spars.  I cut and sanded several pieces to the extreme width of each spar.  Next comes tapering them and then cutting them down to 8-sided.

 

post-923-0-27658700-1482185410.jpg

 

that involves using the 7-10- 7 fan and planing down the four corners to 8.  You can see the lines as the stick lies in the jig (thank you Admiralty Models) ready for planing.

 

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Maury

Posted

After an hour of planing, the boom is now (almost) a perfect octagon.

post-923-0-86612400-1482191934.jpg

 

Then I read the latest NRG journal where I learn that Box wood is Bad for masts (it warps?).  Anyone else have this experience before I shape four more spars.

Maury

Posted

Maury,

Try to get some square pine, warps less than boxwood. But boxwood shouldn't warp unless under extreme conditions.

 

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Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
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Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

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Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

Posted

Maury,

 

If you have not already done so, Google "anchor hoy". You will find a photo of a model of the anchor hoy that you are building sold by American Marine Model Co. This model was built by Eric Ronnberg, an excellent model builder and maritime researcher. On this Model the spencer mast runs clear to the deck where it is secured into a hole in a block of wood. That is also the simplest solution and simple is usually better.

 

Roger

Posted

If the wood is well seasoned, it should not warp. I let my foursquare sticks sit a few days after sawing them, just to be sure. If a blank develops a slight curve, it is taken care of when I mark out the centerline and the tapers before forming the foursquare taper.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

Posted

Thanks for the comments.  My sticks were cut two weeks ago and only three of the 10 have a bow in them.  I guess I'm good to continue with the box.  Roger, I have that photo (and have discussed the model with Eric Jr..  I'm not sure the "block of wood" is not the partners (that are raised up higher than the decking.

Maury

Posted (edited)

Hi Maury,

 

On the spencer mast, aka trysail mast, aka spanker mast.  I am no expert, but I looked through some of my usual sources.  Campbell (China Tea Clippers) says these were used on large hooped masts where either the mast size would result in very large jaws on the boom or where the hoops would interfere with raising and lowering the sail, gaff or boom.  So, the first question is do you need one on a craft of this size.  If it shows on your drawing or other reference, that question may be answered. Campbell says they were either stepped on the deck or on a mast band.  Underhill shows it stepped on a block on the deck on a generic drawing.  Crothers shows it on a mast mounted stool on his Young America drawing, deck stepped on Challenge, and on some sort of ill-defined mast band/bracket on McKay's Lightning.  I think you may take your pick without worry or over-thinking it.

 

Of course, as druxey says, this was a different era - and all my references are for very large ships - and merchant ships at that.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Ed

Edited by EdT
Posted (edited)

Ed, Thanks.  The obvious reason for the Spencer Mast is the standing rigging that provides support for the use of the great cat.  Look at Grice's drawing on the first post in this log.  The main sail extends twice the height of the standing rigging.  The unusual rigging was another reason for selecting this boat.

Maury

Edited by Maurys
Posted

Re: Spencer Mast

 

Readers interested in this topic may wish to refer to the "American Warships for which there are no plans....." Thread in the Nautical History section. On the next to last page there are two old photos of the deck of the frigate Santee. These show Spencer masts on mizzen and main masts. One appears to be seated into a gooseneck fitting. The fitting itself is unfortunately not visible. The main mast Spencer appears to be seated into a boss protruding from the fife rail that runs behind the mast. Good views too of the Spencer mast hoops.

 

Roger

Posted

Spar-making continues...Here lies the main mast in the jig for transforming 4-square to eight-sided sticks.  The chunky square section in the middle of the picture is where the standing rigging for the cat support goes around the mast.  It is situated 20' above the deck.  One cheek on both the port and starboard side will be added so the rigging won't slide down the mast.  See drawing on the first post in this log. 

Maury

post-923-0-93278200-1482354136.jpg

 

Posted

All the spars have been shaped to 8-sided.  I worked on the main some more, taking it to 16 sides, then down to round.  The cheeks blended in well.  They stick out only on the sides to catch the shrouds.   The doubling is square and will be tapered very slightly and the tenon at the heel will be cut later.  After planing, it was sanded with 150, then 220 grit.

 

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post-923-0-44771000-1482604954.jpg

 

Merry Christmas and  Happy Holidays to all.

 

Maury

Posted

The spars are mostly done except to the jaws on the boom and gaff.  While waiting on glue to dry for the beams, I put the partners together.  They are taken from the plan for the Echo section, although there could be any number of layouts.  The carlings are two pieces of 5" x 9 7/8"  material, one on top of the other to create a ledge for the cross chock pieces.

post-923-0-43965000-1483225860.jpg

 

The cross chock pieces are mated.  The hole for the mast and the step for the spencer will be cut next.

 

post-923-0-43965000-1483225860.jpg

 

The partners are made from Swiss pear, for a little contrast.

 

post-923-0-79132500-1483226212.jpg

 

Happy New Year's to all.

Maury

 

 

Posted (edited)

I finished installing the remainder of the deck beams.  Knees need to be installed.

post-923-0-06722400-1483459655.jpg

 

I got to thinking about the mast partners.  Very few items on the deck reflect much detail and after looking at the enlarged photo of the partners, I decided to try another design.   This one is based on Ed T's Naiad.

 

It consists of two layers, each 5" thick.  The lower portion fits between the beams and the upper above.  I still need to add more cross chocks and the carlings to the sides of the upper piece as well as the simulated bolts.  The center will be rounded and the step for the Spencer mast added.  It may be a bit fancy, but historically, we have no information so it's my discretion.

 

post-923-0-23299200-1483466665.jpg

 

 

post-923-0-75530900-1483460085.jpg

 

Maury

 

 

Edited by Maurys
Posted (edited)

Partners are finished.  I used 20 lb. test (.01875")  monofilament line for the bolts.  They seem a bit large, but these are the heads of the bolts.  The holes at the corners are for eyebolts.  The piece is 36" wide and 52" long to put in perspective.   I'm much happier with this version than the first.  It's just set on the beams at this stage...not permanently attached.

 

post-923-0-36690900-1483576937.jpg

 

Continuing to fill in the knees on all the beams.   I'm about halfway back from the bow.

 

Looking way ahead to the rigging, the Grice drawing and the info. from the National Archives shows only (running) back stays and a forestay, but no shrouds for the topmast.  No trestle trees (spreaders) appear in any drawing.  Does this seem reasonable?  My Emma C. Berry has basically the same rig and it has one spreader and one set of shrouds.  Any comments?

Maury

Edited by Maurys
Posted

Hello Maury,

 

Just catching up on your build and I think you're doing a beautiful job.  Very nice indeed.  I agree with your call on the mast partner.  Although I liked the first version, your second version has much greater visual interest - it will be an eye catcher.  Nicely crafted too.

 

Gary

Current Build   Pelican Eastern-Rig Dragger  

 

Completed Scratch Builds

Rangeley Guide Boat   New England Stonington Dragger   1940 Auto Repair Shop   Mack FK Shadowbox    

 

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