18th Century Longboat by BobF - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48 - Tri-Club

[BobF]

I wanted to have the lower gudgeon and pintle assembly in place before I painted the model.  I decided on a technique that I had never used before. I may have "re-invented the wheel,"  but for me it was something new.  After removing the temper and oxidation from a strip of brass that was supplied with the kit, I bent it into the desired shape.  After applying some flux to the piece, I placed a strip of "sacrificial" wood in position, so that it would act as a dam.  Small bits of Stay-Brite solder were then placed inside the area and heated with a micro torch.

When the Stay-Brite melted, it had a tendency to bead up, and not completely fill the area.  I took a flat tool, and compressed the hot solder, forcing it to fill the void.

I then filed away the residue, and shaped the piece.

For the pintles, I opted to epoxy the pin in place, rather than include it in the soldering process.  I just felt that it would be a lot easier to file down the piece to its correct shape if the pin was installed afterwards.

For me, the hardest part of this procedure was getting the brass strips shaped exactly the way I wanted them, so they would fit properly around the stern post and rudder.  The rest of the technique was pretty straight forward.

 

BobF

[dcicero]

That looks really good, Bob.

 

 

Dan

[BobF]

I used 5 minute epoxy to glue the gudgeons and pintles in place.  Although a little messy, this usually gives me plenty of time to get the pieces lined up properly, and remove the excess adhesive.  I always start out with the lower pintle, which in this case, was attached to the stern post.

In order to properly line up the lower gudgeon, I used some miniature clamps, and a strip of L-shaped basswood, which kept the bottom of the rudder lined up with the bottom of the keel.  This worked really well.

I decided to find the proper location for the upper gudgeon before I painted the model and attached the transom frieze.  In the photo the gudgeon is only press-fitted in place.  I don't think it'll be a problem relocating it later on ... at least I hope not!

 

BobF

[Paddy]

BobF,

Nicely done. That's one for the technique locker.

Edited October 4, 2013 by Paddy

[BRiddoch]

Wow...Great work Bob.  Makes me want to start a new Longboat.

 

              Bob R.

[Chuck Seiler]

I think Grolz has an unstarted kit he is trying to get rid of.

 

Hey!!!  What do you mean you are in Japan?  Who is going to run the meeting Wednesday?

Edited October 5, 2013 by Chuck Seiler

[BobF]

Thanks for the kind words.  This little model has presented me with opportunities to try some different things, which has made building it a lot more fun.

 

BobF

[Q A's Revenge]

Just looked at this thread again and have to say your planking is a tutorial in itself, really excellent work Bob. Thanks so much for posting and with such clear pictures.

[BobF]

I'm glad that you like it so far.  I stopped working on another project, so that I could join the Tri-Club group build.  When I get back to the other model, I may apply the planking techniques that I learned with the long boat.  There are definite advantages to edge bending planks, if the wood you are using will cooperate!  I'm certainly going to give it a try.

 

BobF

[Q A's Revenge]

Edge bending certainly seems to have worked well for you Bob!

[catopower]

Hello Bob,

 

I just added my build log to the group and dropped in to take a look at your build. You've done a beautiful job and I'm intrigued by the departures you've made from the kit. Very interesting! I can't wait to see what comes next...

 

Clare

[BobF]

Clare,

 

I haven't had time to work on the model lately.  I've got to be one of the slowest modelers on this planet!  Anyway, thanks for the kind words.  I really like the way your model is progressing.  Very nice job!

 

BobF

[Stuntflyer]

Happy New Year Bob,

 

I just finished reading your excellent build log here. I just started the Longboat myself and I am very new to this. Can you please explain or show how you edge bent the plank sitting next to the garboard plank. I am having difficulty trying to make that curve without putting a slight crease in it. Thanks, MIke

[BobF]

Hi Mike,

 

The next three or four planks after the garboard strake can be problematic.  You can edge bend them only so far.  If you study some of the photos in sections 2 and 3 of my log, you'll see a distinct curve right at the forward end of the plank that's being mounted.  That was created by sanding the inside edge of the plank.  You're most likely going to have to taper these planks slightly, so don't worry about removing a little material.  On this model, I did not proportion a plank until after I had that inside edge where I wanted it.  It's probably going to take some twisting and bending the normal way to get the plank to lay right at the rabbet once you've introduced that curve. One more thing:  When you create that curve, you're going to have to continue lightly sanding some distance going aft so that you have a nice transition along that edge..  I hope I've explained myself properly.  If not, don't hesitate to contact me.

 

BobF

[Stuntflyer]

Bob, That explains things much better. I will give it a try.

Edited January 2, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[Stuntflyer]

Bob, If you look at my log you will see that I had some trouble. I'm on the right path now, however. I will be using a total of 12 strakes. I'm figuring that the bulkhead in front of the garboard strake, "F" will get 11 strakes, "G" will get 10 and "H" will get 9. Correct? With the shear strake and the one below it installed, It also appears that the 7 remaining planks that fit across "H" need to taper close to 1/16" or so in order to fit them all in. Does this seem right? Thanks, Mike

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4930-18th-century-longboat-by-stuntflyer-mike-model-shipways/?hl=%2B18th+%2Bcentury

Edited January 13, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[BobF]

Hi Mike,

It looks to me like you are doing everything correctly.  As near as I can tell, the only difference between our two models is the fact that I proportioned all the planks from the keel up to, and including, the sheer plank.  It wasn't necessarily the right way, it was just the way I opted to do it.  I see in your log that Chuck suggested that you taper the plank under the sheer strake, which is very good advice.  Also, leaving the sheer strake full size will work out better when you apply the frieze strip.  If the planks between the waterline and the molding strip located under the sheer plank are left natural, you'll have very pleasing plank runs.  I see  that you are using the tick marks, which should give you an accurate indication as to how wide the planks will be.  However, as you terminate a plank at the rabbet, you will have to reduce the plank count by one, and reproportion the area at the bow that's left.  It sounds like that's what you have been doing.  I would suggest that you do not let those first and second broadstrakes, located above the garboard strake, go too far forward.  That's one of the keys to having more room at the bow for the rest of the planks.  I've always used a rule of thumb when planking that a plank should not taper more than half of its original width.  Since you stated that it's "close" to 1/16", that sounds OK.  I hope all this helps.  If not, drop me a line, and good luck!

 

BobF

[Stuntflyer]

Bob, thanks. Planking is completed. I found your expertise to be extremely useful and it made things go much smoother than the first go around. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4930-18th-century-longboat-by-stuntflyer-mike-model-shipways/?p=141930

[BobF]

As stated earlier, I'm trying to duplicate some of the features that are shown on the NMM models.  Although my model won't have an anchor davit off the stern, I still want to show the features that would be required if one were used.  I realized that my transom wasn't high enough, and if a davit were mounted, the horse would be in the way.  So, I sanded down the top of the transom, flush with the cap rail, and mounted a slightly higher piece.  In the photos, the notch that the davit would sit in has been started, and will probably be cut a little deeper.

 

BobF

[BRiddoch]

Happy to see you back at it Bob.  Looking great!

 

                 Bob R.

[BobF]

Thanks, Bob.  One thing I failed to mention in my last post is the fact that increasing the height of the transom is going to impact how the white trim around the frieze looks.  I haven't figured that one out yet.  I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

 

BobF

[BobF]

I'm at the point on the model where having an accurately built cradle can be beneficial.  It occurred to me that the scrap wood that held the frames might be of some use in building one.  After some experimentation, I found that the areas that housed frames 4 and E would work.

Because of the added planking on the hull, some trimming was required, but it worked out well.  Using scrap wood, I was able to build the cradle.

The extension and stop at the back of the cradle will insure that the model always sits in the exact same orientation, which will help with laying out the waterline.  I do this for all of my models.

When I checked the plans, I noticed that the hull had a little drag to it.  (The stern sat lower in the water than the bow.)  At first, I thought this might be a printing error, but checking some references, I found another longboat that also had this characteristic.  So, the craddle was adjusted accordingly.

 

BobF

[dgbot]

I like your inventivness Bob.

David B

[BobF]

Hello all,

I just wanted to share an unpleasant experience that I had the other day.  I was soldering some metal fittings for my longboat.  I was using Stay-Brite solder and the flux that comes with this product.  While dispensing a drop of flux on to an applicator, the bottle shattered in my hand.  (See attached photo.) The liquid splashed on my nylon vest, my hands, my throat, and my face.  I immediately started experiencing a slight burning sensation where the flux had landed on my skin, which I immediately started rinsing with cold water.  The nylon vest was ruined.  It wasn’t until afterward that I noticed that some droplets had landed on the lenses of my Opti-Visor.  I consider myself very lucky.

The bottle of flux which I was using was very old.  I’m guessing that I may have purchased it as much as 20 years ago.  The fact that the bottle shattered would lead me to believe that the plastic material had become brittle with age.  It just so happens that I had a second newer bottle, which I carefully squeezed.  The bottle appeared to be quite pliable.  Anyway, if you use this product, please be careful with it.  Eye protection is a definite must!

 

BobF

[mtaylor]

Bob,

 

Sorry to hear about the accident but happy that you're well.   Thanks for posting this.  Might I suggest you also post in the Metalwork sub-forum as I think this is pretty important bit of safety info.

[BobF]

Mark -

 

Excellent idea.  Thanks!

 

BobF

[BobF]

Here are some photos of the partially painted hull.  I decided to leave the white bottom until a little later.  I'm going to start on the floor boards and risers next.  I like to airbrush my models, but masking can, sometimes, be a real pain.  The interior probably took me a good three hours to mask, and only 30 seconds to paint!  Never the less, I feel that the results were worth it.  I'm using Floquil antique white, ATSF red, and depot buff.  I'm not very happy with that last color, but it's time to keep moving froward.

 

BobF

[dgbot]

Bob, I think your paint scheme is perfect.

David B

[BobF]

Before I could start gluing the floor boards in place, I removed small amounts of paint where the glue would be applied.  A very handy tool for this purpose is a ground down Exacto chisel blade.  I use this tool for a lot of applications.  Remember to wear eye protection if you decide to make one of these.

Prior to gluing the first board in place, I drew a light line with a compass along each side of the board.  These two lines are where my simulated nail heads will be located.

I used black paint brush bristles to simulate the nails.  Although not perfectly round, they are so small it's hard to tell the difference.

The bristles are easily trimmed and sanded flush with the surface of the floor board, which produces a nice effect.

 

BobF

[dgbot]

Good idea Bob.  I was wondering how you were going to plank the inside.

David B