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Posted
1 hour ago, ken3335 said:

Hello Everyone,      You'll be pleased to know that after that hiccup I'm back on track.

 

The big question, was it worth the extra work involved?  The answer is an emphatic yes, worth every minute spent on doing it and I think that when you look at the pictures you'll agree with me.

 

I got some Tanganyika for the planking as this is what I normally get in kits and I'm familiar with it. I used an electric sander and took the planks back as much as I could with it rather than rip them off and leave a rough surface. I used a soft pencil on the edge instead of a marker pen which gave excellent results, I tree nailed in the same way using filler and finished the surface as I had done on my earlier attempt. I am so pleased, this is my best planking yet and one that I'm quite proud of, it looks even better in real life due to the matt varnish. The colour is truest on the first picture. The last picture is the before and after.

 

Don't you wish life itself was like this, you screw up but you can put it all behind you and start again!

 

 

Ken

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Ken,  that looks fabulous. Great comeback. 

Vince 

Posted

Hello Everyone,     

 

It seems that there has been a problem for some with viewing my last post so I'll re-submit it. Some may see two versions of the same post so at least you know the reason.

 

You'll be pleased to know that after that hiccup I'm back on track.

 

The big question, was it worth the extra work involved?  The answer is an emphatic yes, worth every minute spent on doing it and I think that when you look at the pictures you'll agree with me.

 

I got some Tanganyika for the planking as this is what I normally get in kits and I'm familiar with it. I used an electric sander and took the planks back as much as I could with it rather than rip them off and leave a rough surface. I used a soft pencil on the edge instead of a marker pen which gave excellent results, I tree nailed in the same way using filler and finished the surface as I had done on my earlier attempt. I am so pleased, this is my best planking yet and one that I'm quite proud of, it looks even better in real life due to the matt varnish. The colour is truest on the first picture. The last picture is the before and after.

 

Don't you wish life itself was like this, you screw up but you can put it all behind you and start again!

 

 

Ken

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Posted

Hi,     Another picture

 

This is the Svitzer, A Mersey fire tender, a common sight on the river. I think that this is what happens when the captain has had a few beers with lunch.

 

 

I'm also making progress on the window frames, only another twelve pieces to go, but getting there.

 

 

Ken

 

 

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Posted

Hi Ken - how are your fingers holding up? mine got pretty sore trying to hold these while filing them out. I couldn`t put them in  a vice to hold them or the soft metal would have been damaged.

 

Mark

current build - HMS Vanguard - Model Shipways

 

Posted

Hi Mark, I know exactly what you mean. I have a hard rubber insert in the face of the vice jaws and a large handle on the file, I'm only doing about 20 min sessions so not too bad. I am having difficulty with the smaller frames, those that are part of the bulkhead above the quarter deck, as they aren't very visible instead of struggling I will probably just paint them. I am pleased though that I tackled the main gallery windows. I'll be glazing them as you did yours.

 

Ken

Posted

Hello Everyone.       Here's my progress update.

 

Some steps forward and quite a few back but I'm getting there.


I fitted the quarter deck, planked and tree nailed it. I made up the deck beam as I had earlier and fitted that. I fitted all the dummy gun carriages and continued up with the first hull planking. I made and fitted the quarter deck gratings. I have been finding difficulties filing out all the windows so for the panels screens on the quarter deck I just painted them, they can hardly be seen so I'll accept the compromise there. After I had planked high enough I roughly shaped the profile for the top edge but having done it I found that I had taken away too much so, annoyed with myself I had to re-do a fair bit of the upper planking. I fitted the upper quarter deck, planked and nailed it. I decided to mark the gun port positions next.

 

Up until about fifteen years ago I built and flew model aircraft and from that I learned how to transfer the image from plans onto the surface of wood so I tried that method and it worked well, see what you think. I am now ready to cut out those ports.

 

 

Ken

 

 

 

 

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Posted
5 hours ago, ken3335 said:

Hello Everyone.       Here's my progress update.

 

Some steps forward and quite a few back but I'm getting there.


I fitted the quarter deck, planked and tree nailed it. I made up the deck beam as I had earlier and fitted that. I fitted all the dummy gun carriages and continued up with the first hull planking. I made and fitted the quarter deck gratings. I have been finding difficulties filing out all the windows so for the panels screens on the quarter deck I just painted them, they can hardly be seen so I'll accept the compromise there. After I had planked high enough I roughly shaped the profile for the top edge but having done it I found that I had taken away too much so, annoyed with myself I had to re-do a fair bit of the upper planking. I fitted the upper quarter deck, planked and nailed it. I decided to mark the gun port positions next.

 

Up until about fifteen years ago I built and flew model aircraft and from that I learned how to transfer the image from plans onto the surface of wood so I tried that method and it worked well, see what you think. I am now ready to cut out those ports.

 

 

Ken

 

 

 

 

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Hi Ken,  I am curious about what method you use to transfer images from plans to wood. 

Vince 

Posted

Ken,all of your deck work looks really good.  I love that there is subtle variation in color among the deck planking.  I agree that painting those interior bulkheads was a sensible compromise.  She's really coming along beautifully and the work is so clean and nice!

We are all works in progress, all of the time.

Posted

Hello,   Thanks again for your likes and kind comments, keep them coming, as I'm sure that you know they really do motivate.

 

Vince and any others who may be interested here's my method of transferring the plan to wood, it's more simple than you may imagine.

 

You need to copy the plan and print it using a Laser printer, it won't work with an inkjet!  You need to get something with Xylene  in it. Looking through my shed I found that I had some thinners that was for Hammerite metal paint so I use that, I believe it is also in ink eraser pens, and other products, just check the label.  Place the printed side to the wood, I tape mine down so that it doesn't move, dampen the back with xylene then with a hard edge, I use an old plastic card scrape it over the print, this transfers the laser ink onto the wood every bit as sharp and clear as the original, works like magic every time.

 

Here's how I copied for my deck beams.

 

 

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Posted

Hi,   Just a small update.

 

After marking out the ports I cut them out and lined them. The ones without lids I will line with 1mm walnut after the 2nd planking and sand them flush. I have left  the ports in the waist not at their finished height, there would not be much strength at the top so I'll size them after the second planking. I cut the sides to their required profile and sanded them to shape. I planked the upper quarter deck, made and fitted the gratings. I was disappointed  with the amount of grating material, There was nowhere near enough, I had to use some that I had left from other kits and there are still gratings left to make.

 

I am scratching my head as to what to do next. I don't intend to fit the prow or keel until after the second planking when I will cut a channel for it to slot into. I'm thinking of doing the rear upper of the poop deck and maybe the front facia before planking but I will take any advice on this. The poop deck is a cause for concern as the only pictures that I can find are side or head on views, nothing that gives any view of a 3D type image, if anyone has a picture of the area from a little above and at an angle from the front fairly close up I would be most obliged if they could put it in a post.

 

Well that's it so just a few pictures.

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Posted

Hello Everyone.    Another update.

 

They say that a picture is better than a thousand words, well in this case it was true. Until I got that excellent photo of the poop area from Bill I couldn't get from the plan an image in my mind as to what I needed to make. After seeing that picture, Petes' notes made more sense and there was then no issues building that area.

I made it up with a false facia to fit the casting to once it had been painted, I also used blocks on the inside so that it would be easier to fit the deck and give a larger surface area for the transom to be glued to. I soaked the ply deck and nailed it down onto the pre shaped blocks, when dry I planked it and fitted a small walnut beam.

 

As I already had some I thought that I'd try Zap canopy glue for the window glazing. This is made for attaching clear plastic canopies to model aircraft. It is a creamy white glue that dries crystal clear, it worked perfectly and is probably the same stuff as Micro Krystal Clear. I notice that a 1oz bottle of the Micro was more expensive than a 2oz bottle of Zap.

 

I painted  the facia and attached that. I realised that all the filing of the window frames was worth the effort.

 

Next I will make the facia at the bow.  Bill could I impose on you again for another of your excellent quality photographs.

 

 

Ken

 

 

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Posted

Hi Ken,

Hopefully the following images will be of help to you.  These are my interpretation of the bow area.  Most of my interpretation came from Pete's interpretation plus the wonderful builds on MSW.  I did not use some of the metal supplied in the kit when constructing the forecastle front bulkhead, rather opting for wood.

 

Regards,

Bill

 

 

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Posted

Hi Bill,    Again you've come up trumps. Not only is your build and interpretation very good but also the way you have photographed it. Not only a good angle showing your build detail but the light and definition makes it like I'm actually there looking at it.

 

Many thanks again,

 

Ken

Posted

Hello again.         

 

Here's my next update.

 

When I started this build I was told that due to the nature of this kit no two builds would be the same, well true to form here's another version.

 

As you are aware  I am not concerned with historical build accuracy, I just want to end up with a nice looking ship that resembles the Royal William, I just want to use the materials that I have available and to simplify the build as much as I can so to that end here's my version of the bow facia.


First I copied the plan version on to 0.5 ply then cut it to shape, I intended to build it off the model to be added later. I cut a length if 12mm dowel and halved it to be used for the roundhouses, I glued them into place along with the top casting and painted them. I wasn't going to use turned columns for the decor but I didn't want to leave the casting as plain as it was so I decided to bead across the top. I have a selection of shot weights used for fishing, I got these for canon balls on a previous build, these were ideal as they came in many different sizes, they are split for attaching to fishing line so were easily halved. I painted them gold and glued them into place, I think that they worked quite well. The upright pillars were made from 2x3mm walnut strip with the centre groove filed out, they were painted and fitted into place. I just glued on leftover deck planking to simulate the doors and used brass nails for the handles, I thought adding hinges would crowd the space so omitted them.

I cut into the ply to make the gunports and prised them open a little to give them more definition before adding some hinges and rope. I painted some plastic strips and added them to the bottom of the facia to give it a finished look.

 

Although it doesn't look like it I did use Bills, Marks and Petes'  images as a guide, it was knowing how it should finally look that lets you adapt it to how you want your build to appear without creating problems for yourself. So thanks guys.

 

 

Ken

 

 

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Posted

Without getting carried away with too many accolades to the various builders - who are doing some phenomenal work - of the RW (Royal William), I have been working quietly in the background adding parts of their various posts into my own work. This requires considerable editing but above all it has forced me to look at my own work and update that as well. So ... at the end of each month, I plan to have an update placed on the Euromodel website for this ship that will encompass everybody's work (like ... RW.04.HULL CONSTR.May 2017). At the risk of being repetitive, these notes/ files are only being written for others to freely use and that is my ONLY payment. So, thanks guys for allowing me to use your work - its just great fun to do !

Pete

Posted

Hello again.            Thanks for your likes and comments on my last post.

 

Nothing to report on R.W. today, just getting my mind around preparations for the second planking.

 

My modelling experience is mainly building and flying model aircraft. For numerous reasons I gave up just over fifteen years ago when I was probably on top of my game. When I started to build boats about five years ago I found that the skills required were quite different, aircraft being more technical and boats being much finer detailed but both require a certain dedication, ingenuity and quite a bit of patience. Just a thought!

 

This is not a boat post but as everyone loves looking at pictures here's a few of my models from that time. They were scratch built were 1/4 scale and flew very successfully, even at air shows.

 

 

Ken

 

 

 

 

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Posted

Wow,

 

Just one question about the previous post.

What are you using now for your floaters now you are using the lead for your model?

 

Sjors

Posted

To bad Ken,

 

In a few weeks we are on holiday in the south of France and there is no room for the build so my fishing rods are coming with me 😳

 

Sjors

 

Posted

Hello again.            Thanks for your likes and comments.

 

Just in case you were wondering, I much prefer building boats to aircraft.

 

The good news for me is that I've finally finished filing out all the window frames. This was my most hated modelling job that I have ever done. I started out doing half hour sessions then quickly reduced the time spent on them, I ended up doing just 5min sessions, I eventually couldn't bear the thought of even picking them up, Grrrr! :default_wallbash: I shall never again complain about doing ratlines.

 

 

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On to more pleasant aspects. I cleaned up the hull ready for the second planking, I sealed and painted the area around the gun ports as this will now be a finished surface. I shaped the stem to fit the hull, and fitted a couple of dowels for attaching it later, these will determine the exact location and add strength to the joint. I saw this idea on one of your logs and thought that it made sense. Once in place I was able to determine the correct angle for the bowsprit, I drilled out the 10mm hole for it. I am not going to fit the stem, keel or sternpost until after the planking is complete. I have temporarily attached a ply strip the same size as the keel to give me the correct width to butt up to, when the planking is finished I'll remove it and hopefully slot the keel into its place. At the bow I'll cut a slot in the planks and fit the stem into that. I know that this doesn't seem to be the normal way of doing it but I fancy that it might work quite well for me.

 

The purists out there will probably wring your hands when I say that I have no planking plan or sequence that I am going to adhere to I'll just put one plank down and work it out from there one plank at a time. My aim is to have neat good tight joins with no unseemly gaps between the planks and hopefully a reasonable flow. I will fit the planks exactly between the ports leaving the appropriate recess so that there will be no need for trimming later. I intend to paint the lower hull when finished.

 

To that end I started with the first un tapered plank and fitted it just above the middle gun deck ports, this formed a neat top to the ports and seemed to me a good place to start, I am working both upwards and downwards from here.

 

On Thursday I'm going into hospital for what is now just a routine operation, I'll be back home within a week so no worries but it means a short building break. The good news is, no housework, shopping or gardening for a couple of weeks, I'm thinking lots of  modelling time with my wife bringing me loads of tea and cake. I think that this might be a good time to buy stuff that I would like whilst the sympathy lasts. Any ideas.

 

 

Ken

 

 

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Posted

Hi,       Just a small update showing my progress with the second planking.

 

 

So far it's going as I hoped that it would, the gun port method is working well and I'm quite pleased at how it's going. I have just arrived at the point where I must taper the planks at the bow, I really will have to give it a bit more thought than I first intended. I've roughly marked where the wales will go and I think that I'll be able to arrange it so as to hide the transition from straight planks to upward swept planks behind them. I'll divide the hull into sections of about five planks and try to taper the planks evenly between each section. As basic as that sounds at least it's a plan, as I intend to paint the lower hull I think that it will look ok.

 

 

Here's a couple more pictures of Liverpool.

 

 

 

Ken.

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