HMS King George V by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC

[cog]

1 hour ago, RGL said:

So, my first attempt at camouflage, this is stressful 

So you are human after all! Now you know what we mere mortals have to deal with on a daily basis ...

 

So the grubby light grey is your "default" colour, and now you are setting up the dark grey, since one usually works from light to dark. If you want to match the camouflage, you can scan and print the example and use that as a template ... makes life a lot easier ... maybe even less traumatic ...

[RGL]

No mate, just the pain of “will the mask lift paint”, it has light grey, light blue, dark blue and black, so it’s a bit of a layer cake that requires preshading on each level or at least highlighting. I used a pencil to draw up the lines and some Tamiya flexible masking tape. 

 

i got the set of Lifecolour RN paints, add thinner and they become putty. Don’t add thinner! Use water. 

 

Light blue added, I’ll do black and dark blue tomorrow 

[popeye the sailor]

if you saw how I did the camo on the Vendetta.........   the method your using though is producing some really good results     airbrush is by far,  the best way to do camo......no tell tale paint lines.   blending is a lot easier too.   she's look'in awesome  

[cog]

What do you mean by blending, there is hardly ever blending with camouflage  ...?

[Koppalakki]

You need lifecolors own thinner for the paints!

 

I tried to airbrush them a couple of times but they weren't up to my standards on how they behave. They are absolute marvelous brushing though!

 

GL with the camo, a lot of split hairs while I did mine on the Tirpitz!

[RGL]

Out of the set I’m going to use 2 shades, one of which I can probably replace with Mr Color or Tamiya, water dilutes it OK but it’s a pain to find how it works differently to the other acrylics. 

[Old Collingwood]

5 hours ago, Koppalakki said:

You need lifecolors own thinner for the paints!

 

I tried to airbrush them a couple of times but they weren't up to my standards on how they behave. They are absolute marvelous brushing though!

 

GL with the camo, a lot of split hairs while I did mine on the Tirpitz!

My paint on my warspite is hand painted with lifecolor,  I love them.

 

OC.

[RGL]

So, bootstrap to go, 

[Old Collingwood]

Loving the camo mate.

 

OC.

[RGL]

Thanks, I’ve just added the boot strap. Next will be the depth markers, then the deck will be laid down. I can then drill the stanchion holes as the deck will give me the boundary. 

 

Then weather the hull, place stanchions and rig it with ezyline. Every other time I’ve rigged the stanchions the superstructure has been on and it’s that little bit more fiddly. 

[Old Collingwood]

Some pics from 1941 (I think)   hope they are useful to you.

 

(All photos courtesy of  IWM retrieved via a generic internet picture search)

 

OC.

Edited July 24, 2018 by Old Collingwood

[Old Collingwood]

And these two in drydock.

 

(All photos courtesy of  IWM retrieved via a generic internet picture search)

 

OC.

 

Edited July 24, 2018 by Old Collingwood

[RGL]

Thanks, I have scoured the net for every photo I can, and only found 3 or 4 from 1943. So much rubbish with people just labeling photos of the wrong ship as KVG (or any other ship for that matter). Most research is open source these days and once your head is around what was fitted when makes it a lot easier to build. 

[Old Collingwood]

1 minute ago, RGL said:

Thanks, I have scoured the net for every photo I can, and only found 3 or 4 from 1943. So much rubbish with people just labeling photos of the wrong ship as KVG (or any other ship for that matter). Most research is open source these days and once your head is around what was fitted when makes it a lot easier to build. 

Its quite difficult finding pics from our exact build timeline,  I am still looking for close up shots inlcuding deck shots of Warspite in mid 1944, as thats the time I am building her from D Day offshore bombardement.

 

OC.

[RGL]

IWM?

[cog]

3 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

Its quite difficult finding pics from our exact build timeline,  I am still looking for close up shots inlcuding deck shots of Warspite in mid 1944, as thats the time I am building her from D Day offshore bombardement.

 

OC.

Have you tried switching searchengine ... you might have a few different posts between the engines on the same search criteria

[RGL]

Deck added, depth markers rubbed on 

[RGL]

Very true, the IWM mentions the status of their photos as does the AWM. It’s when they are going to be used for a commercial venture. 

[RGL]

Dirk, I completely agree, I suppose the issue is with the Internet photos are copied everywhere without references and it becomes impossible to find their original source after a while. Russian sites are a wealth of information for photos but as I only speak one language I have no idea what their captions are. 

 

The IWM site is not really user friendly for searching. The AWM is a little better, and since the death of photobucket a ginormous amount of reference material has died never to be replaced. 

[RGL]

True, so many lies out there. 

[amateur]

Hi Greg,

 

Quite often google translate is capable of transforming those Russion captions to something more or less understandable

 

By the way: I very much like the camo on the ships hull.

I was wondering whether you will be able to mask the camo on the upper structures, or that you have to spray/paint them just by hand.

 

Jan

 

[RGL]

I’ve tried to calculate it so I can mask and spray, then add things afterwards (ie; Carley Floats). The big bits will still need to be modulated to bring out details/highlights. 

[Old Collingwood]

9 hours ago, Dubz said:

Imperial War Museum ... I would like to suggest to mention the sources of pictures from the net (also it is always a bit "tricky" with copyrights ...;-)) 

 

Nice progress though :-)

 

cheers,

 

Dirk

I have made a reference to the source of the pictures as requested,   hope it helps.

 

OC.

[RGL]

So I added some bulge pump holes on the waterline as well as a grunge/salt ring around the hull at the waterline as well as a bit more airbrushed grunge. That bits now finished. I drilled multiple holes for the stanchions going through 4 drill bits. 

[RGL]

I’ve made a start on the upper hull. A little bit of a wash to bring out the highlights on the hull plates I scribed in and degaussing cables. I then gave it all a light dry brush of white to highlight everything. It actually looks a lot better in real life. 

 

I have to do some streaks yet but im going to wait until I’ve done the Walrus Catapult as I have to scratch build the ends which were not included in the kit (or upgrade set) and a solid shields amidships. 

[Koppalakki]

You might want to weather the draft marks aswell. They would have chipped and eaten dirt just like the hull aswell.

 

I usually apply them and other decals before any weathering so they will get the same treatment.

[RGL]

Yes, they're a bit stark. As they are so adhesive, it'll need a scrape back to bare hull then repaint on that section/s.

[Koppalakki]

I know the dry transfers are a bit iffy. The only problem I've had with them is when you need to place them on top PE plates. It always peel off down to the primer. To remedy this as possible as I can is to cut all excess material off the sheet.

On normal plastic I've not had any problems so far.

[RGL]

Same, the stuff for their DDG was just horrible, I’ve taken to using Tamiya rattle can Primer on big bits of PE after I wipe them down with acetone. 

 

This is is an easy fix as I’ll just dab some little bits of black and red and overspray again with diluted grey. 

 

Glad to see you on this forum as I believe youre from @cog ‘ s part of  the globe so you can instruct him as well, and you can join our next joint build later this year. 

Edited July 25, 2018 by RGL

[knightyo]

Greg,

 

Do you show how you affix the brass rod pedestals to your models in any of your logs?  I was going to go thru your logs again to see, but am lazy of course, and thought I'd just ask.

 

Alan