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Arctic37

Cutty Sark by Arctic37 - Revell - Scale 1:96 - PLASTIC

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Hello,

 

This build log intends to show the building of the famous tea clipper Cutty Sark from Revell in a scale of 1:96. This will be my first sailing ship model, until now I built only WW2 ships and planes.
I have chosen this kit because it's made from plastic, so I already know the know-how, and the rigging wouldn't be a nightmare (excluding the quantity ūüôā ), thanks to the big enough scale.

 

About the kit:
This is the grand-grandchildren of the good old Cutty Sark kit from 1960, in a new box with partly new parts from '90s (this dates mean that the development happened at that date, but my kit is newly manufactured). The quality is good, the parts fit quite well, but some sanding and filling is required. Sadly the panellines (deck, wood imitations, copper plates) are positive, which will give me a hard time at filling and sanding. The other annoying things are sails, which are vacuum-formed. The shaping is good here too, but they still looks like plastic, so the ship will not have any sails or I will make them from canvas or silk (I haven't decided yet).

 

Attila 

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Hello Attila

 

I had a Revell kit of the Cutty Sark I started back in the early 80's but never finished as life got in the way (marriage, three daughters two dogs and goldfish!!!). After moving house three times I unfortunately mislaid/lost the kit and never saw it finished.

I'll be watching with interest how your build progresses.

 

Cheers............Fernando  :cheers:

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Attila - count me in on your build. I started Revell's 1:96 Connie about two years ago and I finally have her gun deck installed. Maybe this will inspire me to get back to work on her. I look forward to watching your progress on this ship. Good adventures!!!

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I hoped that today I would be able to paint the hull and the deck, but unluckily the airbrush didn't work (it haven't been used since 1 or 2 years), it has paint as dry as stone in it, which I couldn't clean with my accesories, and the air is leaking everywhere (maybe because the sealings have worn out). So until the newly ordered air brush doesn't arrive (cheap hobby type, costed around $9, but good for large area painting), the build continued with deck fittings (pump, lifters, steering wheel) and deck housings.

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Built that model in 72. Only rigged the standing rigging and my painting was with a brush. Would have been a big help and had a nicer outcome if this site had existed, my experience with modeling was with the Ships, automobiles and airplanes available in the late 50's up to about 66, so the results were rough, but she looked good up on the shelf, dust was a problem and after some top-hamper was damaged, I gave it away. Will be watching, makes an attractive model and worth the effort to build.

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wow.......looks like they cheaped out on the thread ;) :D    I've built two.......both of them,  the older kits.  I forget what happened to the first one,  but the second one is still in the spare room,  waiting to be finished.   not sure if the log for her is still here,  but if your interested,  I can give you the links to my Word Press site.   I've built several of these Revell 1:96 scale ships....love 'em.   I was never a fan of the three section decks....here's how I modified the anchor chain and the windlass:

https://cuttysarkdrydock.wordpress.com/2011/09/23/the-cutty-sark-windlass-revamp/

 

the one thing that I envy you over........is that your decal sheet is likely pristine!  long story on that one  ;) 

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9 hours ago, popeye the sailor said:

I was never a fan of the three section decks....

I hate them too, especially because the panel lines are positive so you can't engrave them again if you fill them up with putty at the joints of the deck parts. 

 

For the yesterday progress:

I painted the hull with three coats of copper color (Revell Aqua 93) with the hobby-airbrush, but after the airbrush used up all of the loaded paint (half of the can (!) which was even diluted in 1:1 ratio), and the results were not satisfactory (see first picture), I didn't want to waste the remaining paint, so I decided to finish the hull with brush. I was using a big 16 sized brush, and the paint was diluted 1:1 here too. I painted one coat, then I waited for about 20 minutes, then painted the next coat. It continued until about 10 coats (excluding the airbrush), until the result was satisfactory.

And she already has some bivalvia and algae ūüôā (actually they are tiny dry bubbles from the soap, added to the paint, to counteract the¬†surface tension of water (becuase I use acrylic paints diluted with water), and help the paint evenly flow everywhere)

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I use enamels,  so I wouldn't encounter that problem,  unless I added too much thinner.   I'm not sure if acrylics are like this,  but metallic enamels are very slow drying.........even after 12 hours,  the threat of finger prints is quite high.   I've taken to give it a coat of flat lacquer,  to counter the shine and give it a hard finish.  it's been a few years now,  but I did this to another 1:96 kit...the U.S.S. United States,  and it came out really nice.   I even went further and made wooden decks for her.  she sits in the closet still.   about a year ago,  I bought the U.S.S. Constitution.....private sale....for $15.00....I have plans for these two,  since the Connie has the stern quarters parts,  while the United States does not.   both of these are second builds for me

 

there is a gentleman here that has done great things with the 1:96 Cutty kit,  building at least five different clipper ships from the kit hulls......how he came by all these kits is still a mystery.......he probably told me,  but I forget.  here is the link to one of his projects:

 

enjoy  ;) 

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I stopped buying enamel 3-4 years ago and changed to acryl, because they don't smell, dry quickly, and easier to keep the accesories clean. Only my laquers are enamel, because acryl is very vulnerable. This copper color was touch-proof-dry in 20 minutes (this is why I was able to paint 10 layers in one day)
And thanks for the link it's really interesting.

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This is how she looks tonight.

The main colors of hull are painted, but some corrections around the masking is needed. "Only" the paintings of the side-belts (I don't know how they called properly, I hope you know what I mean) and the inner side remain to be finished, but then the hull is complete, and I can start working on the deck.

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The project is not halted ūüôā

State of progress today: The hull completed. I painted the deck and tried to imitate the wood, with two slightly different (only the brown:white ratio is differ slightly) paints of brown (Revell 187, earth color) then it got a black wash, and a coat of graphite (from a pencil) , which was later scrubed down, but remained in the edges (so basically a wash). When both the hull and the deck paint has dried, they were glued together and I placed the stand under the ship (which are boatyard-wood imitations)

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I am looking at ordering the same ship myself, it would be great to have your log to help me with my build. 

 

Out of interest how many pots of standard model paint would be required to airbrush the hull?

 

By the way for a hand paint your hull looks fantastic.

 

Richmond

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I will always update the log when I can make some progress with her.

 

When I painted the copper color, I used up half of the pot, with the airbrush in 3 layers, and the hull needed approx 10-15 coats altogether, so I would say you will need 3-4 pots of Revell Aqua 93 (but only if you are as "talented" in airbrushing as me ūüėĄ , in better cases you maybe need only 2)

For the upper part, I used 3-5 coats of black color, so 1 pot of black paint is more than enough

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Artic

 

Thank you, that is very helpful. I usually stick with Tamiya or GSI 'acrylics' but may consider Vallejo with their bigger size pots for the build as I have to mail order most of my paints.

 

I have never used Vallejo or any of the other true acrylics such as Revell or the GSI aquas and I would like to see how they go.

 

I was wondering if it's the fact you are using a true acrylic that you require more paint?  Having never used a true acrylic I wouldn't know. Did you prime?

 

Richmond

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After two months of pause due to lack of time, I could continue building her.
The anchor chains, some part of the bowsprit and the foredeck was fitted, and I also installed some things deck: cabin houses, bell, hatches, etc... Hopefully by the end of January she will be completey except masts, rigs and sails

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Hi, looking forward to read your build. I've invested quite a bit in additional parts and built a work station out of an old ironing board (pictures of which are somewhere on these forums). Not started yet. I have the etch decorations for the stern and bow and have been wondering which is the cleanest way of gluing them on (after painting the hull?).

Just bought another kit off fleabay, which I think is a bit of a 'find'. Looks to be a 1960 UK first issue. All the mouldings are a lot fresher as you'd expect. It all seems to be there. This issue has no vac form sails or crew figures included. Also included is an original Revell boxed set of untouched enamel bottled paints and original boxed tube of cement. Plus the little 'historical' booklet.  Amazing surviving novelty.

The original 1959 American issue had portholes all along the sides, which are depicted on the box art I have. So the kit is the first modified moulding which doesn't have them.

After 60 years it has survived without any breakages or lost any parts. Even the pre-painted copper on the hull is almost unblemished. Considering how beat up the box is, it all looks good, fresh and new. I've clipped and re-bagged the sprue's for safety.

The kit I'm building has much better printed instructions, though the original drawings are displayed differently, with minimally modified captions. One for the stash.

(Picture is an archive image)

revell-pre-cutty-sark-clipper-ship_1_9871689e8a548f8d5f77f5bb2082f6cd.jpg

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I have just rescued a model ship from certain death at a garage clear out.  I have identified it as the model that you have been building here.  I have been able to salvage most of the ship but it would be handy if anyone had a copy of the build plans so I can see what little bits might be  missing.  Can anyone help me?  or pictures would help too.

 

 

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David,

You might check out DavidK's build on finescale.com, he did a start to finish including a glass case.  If you get no response on the instructions, I might be able send you some copies of my instructions.

Your shipmate, Shane

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