HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed

[dvm27]

Great photos, Mark! I have the same problem with my current hull. A couple of the joint lines along the continuous solid plane have separated. I have filled and sanded but they reappear religiously, always in the same place. Wood just wants to be wood!

[druxey]

I just use sanding sticks very carefully once the whole port has been planked all around. They are extra-long so that the far end rests against the opposite port opening. The edges of the sanding stick are beveled back so I can get right into the corners.

[SJSoane]

Greg, I am glad you prompted me into, and liked, the hi res photos. I am not sure how many of those revealing photos I can bear to post over time, but we will see...

 

druxey, ah, hah, very ingenious! Thanks.

 

Mark

[garyshipwright]

Hi Mark. Looking good sir and I like seeing the hi res photos and hope that I never post one. At the moment am working on the  quarter deck gun ports and once they are finished I will be having a party and maybe a update, thank goodness. I also have been installing battens on Alfred for the waist and sheer rails. One good thing about adding them, makes it easy to adjust them if the curve doesn't look right. Good work sir and looking forward to some more hi res photos. Gary

[SJSoane]

Hi Gary,

 

Your idea of battens is brilliant. It helps see the curve better than any other idea I tried,  it provides a solid surface to check the upper curve of the planks against while sanding them to a final shape, and a firm clamping surface for the final installation. I will definitely use this idea for the upper works.

 

Hi res photos are uncomfortable; I admire Ed even more for posting these all the time.  They show more than the eyes can see, and they reveal that one's craftsmanship is not as good as one thought. A little humbling. Maybe I can figured out a resolution for photos that exactly matches the level of detail that I can see without magnification...

 

Looking forward to seeing your progress on the Alfred!

 

Mark

[JohnReid]

On 2/16/2013 at 11:16 AM, SJSoane said:

Hi everyone,

 

To get started again, I will post again the photos I took of the original Bellona model at Chatham last year, with permission from the National Maritime Museum. This model is contemporary with the original design of 1760. The Bellona was rebuilt in the 1780s with some significant changes in port locations, refitted rail on the poop, etc. I prefer the look of the original, and so these photos of the original model are my roadmap through the project.

 

It will take me a while to summarize my own build starting with my re-drafted drawings at 3/16" scale, but I am committed to the task!

 

Best wishes,

 

Mark

 

 

 

I love this model as it has so much character.It is unique in that it has been weathered and it raises the question, is it in drydock to have the planking changed?This is what a diorama is all about Did the artist  do this or did time do this or did the model turn itself into a diorama.Love it  either way.

 

Edited January 27, 2018 by JohnReid
text

[Hubac's Historian]

General question here:  often on the admiralty models, we see these narrow strakes, running from stem to stern.  They aren’t wales, and their run (as seen very clearly on this model) doesn’t even correspond with the run of the planking.  So, I wonder what specific purpose they serve on the model.  On this model of the Bellona, they are even shown running between planking strakes of the upper works.  Was their sole purpose to illustrate the fairness of the frames and the shape of the hull for the admiralty board?

[druxey]

The 'narrow strakes' are called ribbands. Where they curve sharply at the bow and stern they are cut to shape they are termed harpins. These are temporary battens to secure the framing until the planking is hung. Generally, they follow the lines of the floor and futtock joints and run a few feet above and below them.

[Hubac's Historian]

Aha!  Thanks, Druxey!  So, this would be one aspect of this model presentation that makes it a diorama.  Cool.

[SJSoane]

Hi John, Marc, yes, this model of the Bellona is absolutely captivating. I have studied photos of it for years, had a chance to examine it close up, and it still sings to me after all these years. The the lines of the ship, the exposed methods of construction, the assured craftsmanship of the model and its 250 year old patina, make this a timeless classic.

 

As best I understand from the various Brian Lavery writings about this model, it was likely used as a demonstration or study for some proposed changes in the hull framing system. One side is framed in a conventional way, and the other side proposes a potentially stronger but more expensive way to run frames from keel to top with fewer interruptions. One side is partially planked, the other has no planking.

 

druxey can probably give you a better understanding of the ribbands, the thin bands running longitudinally. They were removed as planking proceeded up the hull, and were initially used to align and fair the frames. Ed Tosti's books on the Naiad frigate illustrate how useful these were for keeping the hull together and aligned before the more permanent longitudinal structural pieces like wales, spirketting, deck clamps, planking, etc., finally locked everything together.

 

It is interesting in the Bellona model that parts of planking are inserted between the ribbands, since these would not have been in the same place at the same time in the actual construction. I supppose they needed the ribbands to hold the model together, but wanted to suggest the actual lines of planking on one side while primarily concentrating on showing the framing system.

 

I did not concern myself with ribbands on my model, because the stylized admiralty or dockyard framing system locks the frames together with no spaces between. This causes expansion and contraction problems with humidity changes, as I discussed earlier, but it does away with the need for ribbands.

 

Best wishes,

 

Mark

[JohnReid]

Hi! Mark.The patina is just wonderful.The idea that it was a study model makes it all the more interesting to me.It has a storyline all of its own and dioramas are all about the story.It is wonderful as well that you have taken the time to research this piece of history.I will be following your project with enthusiasm. Cheers! John.

[garyshipwright]

1 hour ago, SJSoane said:

Hi John, Marc, yes, this model of the Bellona is absolutely captivating. I have studied photos of it for years, had a chance to examine it close up, and it still sings to me after all these years. The the lines of the ship, the exposed methods of construction, the assured craftsmanship of the model and its 250 year old patina, make this a timeless classic.

 

As best I understand from the various Brian Lavery writings about this model, it was likely used as a demonstration or study for some proposed changes in the hull framing system. One side is framed in a conventional way, and the other side proposes a potentially stronger but more expensive way to run frames from keel to top with fewer interruptions. One side is partially planked, the other has no planking.

 

druxey can probably give you a better understanding of the ribbands, the thin bands running longitudinally. They were removed as planking proceeded up the hull, and were initially used to align and fair the frames. Ed Tosti's books on the Naiad frigate illustrate how useful these were for keeping the hull together and aligned before the more permanent longitudinal structural pieces like wales, spirketting, deck clamps, planking, etc., finally locked everything together.

 

It is interesting in the Bellona model that parts of planking are inserted between the ribbands, since these would not have been in the same place at the same time in the actual construction. I supppose they needed the ribbands to hold the model together, but wanted to suggest the actual lines of planking on one side while primarily concentrating on showing the framing system.

 

I did not concern myself with ribbands on my model, because the stylized admiralty or dockyard framing system locks the frames together with no spaces between. This causes expansion and contraction problems with humidity changes, as I discussed earlier, but it does away with the need for ribbands.

 

Best wishes,

 

Mark

Hi Mark. You bring up a very good point on wood movement. You and Greg wrote about the cracks coming and  going in your models but this can also cause one a very big headache when building them, which am sure you know all about that.  Seems that Alfred has moved around a lot and when I measure from point A to point B her parts have either increase or decrease making it just a little harder to build  on to her. Either that or I have forgotten how to read a ruler. :o)  Am sure the builders in the 17th and 18th century, understood this when they let a ship season and dry out, causing their measurment to be spot on or off.  Ok back to work on Alfred. Gary 

[dvm27]

With regards to wood movement I am reminded of a anecdote by Robert Bruckshaw, whose Navy Board style models are (or were) on display in the Smithsonian Museum. After framing the hull he took a break from it for several months. Upon returning to the model he noted the hull was a full 1/4 " shorter. Fearing the worst, he covered it with a wet cloth and returned 24 hours later to find it had returned to it's specified length. He added clamps and wales and that was the end of the problem.

 

 

Edited January 27, 2018 by dvm27

[SJSoane]

I apologize in advance if my incremental postings on installing the wales are getting too tedious. When I looked around for information on installing wales, there were many unanswered questions on some of these details. So in the spirit of helping others see some of the issues involved as I work through them, here is another unexpected one.

 

The top plank at the stern takes a fair twist in the vertical direction, in addition to the curve in the horizontal direction. I intended to steam and clamp the top two planks, and then follow David Antscherl's advice in the Fully Framed Model to carve the lowest 2 strakes to fit the very wicked curve further down.

 

Then I discovered the problem of how to clamp the upper planks, first for steaming, and then for gluing. Clamps from the top or bottom cannot reach the plank, and a clamp across the stern slips off due to the extreme curvature of the sides. So in the best traditions of Rube Goldberg, I clamped a right angle device to the table, which gave a surface parallel to the keel to clamp to on the left. I then had to place a small clamp on the device holding the sternpost, to keep the horizontal clamp from slipping away on the right.

 

It is holding the piece in place after steaming; tomorrow I will find out if this will also work for gluing the piece on.

 

I realized that this pulled the hull out of true on the table top, and it will have to be re-leveled before I start marking up for subsequent work on the hull.

 

Mark 

[druxey]

Often Rube Goldberg (U.K. model-makers, read Heath Robinson) arrangements with rubber bands and wood wedges are a useful work-around when conventional clamping is impossible.

[AON]

I appreciate the incremental postings.  Please do not stop.

[dvm27]

Darn it , Mark. I just encountered the exact same problem and your solution seems to do the trick. I assume you removed the yellow rubber insets to extend the width of the clamp?  Have you tried a hot air gun? I'm achieving twists and bends I thought were impossible before. No more overnight clamping of wet wood for me! Look at this beautiful piece of 1/8" boxwood I ruined while experimenting with the hot air gun the first day I received it. That was a month ago and the shape is exactly the same.

[SJSoane]

Hi Greg,

 

Yes, I removed the pads on the clamps to get maximum opening, and it just, just fit. My bigger clamp would have crunched the hull.

 

That is an impressive twist! Michael was also talking about hot air guns, and I had hoped Santa might bring one at Christmas, but alas no. Which one are you using?

So do you shape this over the hull while blowing hot air, or do you bend off the hull and periodically check for fit?

 

Mark

[dvm27]

I got the Porter Cable hot air gun off Amazon. It was somewhere around $35. I shape the plank off the model by applying  heat wherever required to get the twist and bend I need. Just keep gentle shaping, offer up to model to assess then add more heat where bend or twist is still needed. It's quite therapeutic because your're shaping it to the hull and not relying on clamps and soaking to massage it into place. When finished, I don't need clamps to secure the plank; just glue and 90 seconds of finger pressure (I still use clamps after it appears set, though, just to be sure there is maximum adhesion throughout the entire plank). Extreme bends at one end can be done by using a pair of pliers  to facilitate the curve under heat 

 

On caveat - the hot air gun is...hot!!! As Fire Safety Engineer Kurt has pointed out it can burn wood or flesh quite easily. I can attest to smokey gloves when first learning to use it.

 

[SJSoane]

Aha, that is pretty affordable. I'll see what I might do in this regard. The steaming and waiting 24 hours is getting tedious, even though I am retired and in no rush. Looks like welding gloves might be a good idea.

 

Mark

[paulsutcliffe]

22 hours ago, druxey said:

Often Rube Goldberg (U.K. model-makers, read Heath Robinson) arrangements with rubber bands and wood wedges are a useful work-around when conventional clamping is impossible.

Thanks for the translation/ explanation Druxey

Edited January 28, 2018 by paulsutcliffe

[Mike Y]

... and please do not worry about repetitive postings about wales, few recent pages of this log yielded an unexpectedly interesting discussion and lots of photos of a pretty top-notch models. Please do not stop!

[SJSoane]

Thank you, Alan and Mike, for encouraging incremental posts on the wales construction. Here is the next phase.

 

The sternmost planks of the wales were more challenging than I had expected, with the wicked twist to the stern counter.  I haven't followed up on using a heat gun for bending, so had to wait overnight a few times for the steam bending to dry. I used artists' graphite paper to fit one plank to another. Squeeze the joint together with the paper in between, pull the paper through, and it shows highlights that need to be filed or sanded down. The last hi res photos shows how accurate this can be (thanks, Greg, for encouraging me into the occasional hi res photo). I also made long sanding sticks shaped to the curve of the wales (first photo), which help even up the lower edge ready for the next strake below.

 

I can see that sanding the wale to the counter is going to be challenging, avoiding accidentally marring the finished counter surface. I will leave these a little proud and turn the hull upside down for final shaping when both full wales are in. I can't see clearly enough what is happening with filing when the hull is upright.

 

I think I had better start on the port side before tackling the lower two strakes on the starboard side, just in case I start getting differential pull between the now constrained starboard side and the still unconstrained port side as the humidity changes.

 

Mark

 

[garyshipwright]

Hi Mark. Your wale sir is looking outstanding. Love looking at her  and how she is growing in leaps and bounds. Look forward to the next update. Gary

[druxey]

Looking great, Mark. That aft end of the wale is extremely well done - it's a beast of a plank! Your third photo shows the apparent reverse curve at the bow now. I'd certainly keep the construction 'balanced' port and starboard for maximum stability.

[Wintergreen]

Mark, your Bellona is a very handsome model.

Great work.

[SJSoane]

Thank you, Gary, druxey and Håkan for your kind comments. It helps me keep going.

 

druxey, thank you for confirming that I should work on the port side top two strakes, before going back to the starboard lower two strakes. I want to trap the frame on both sides as close to the same time as possible, when the humidity is roughly the same. I worry about unequal pull on the two sides if one is restrained and the other is not when the humidity changes.

 

Last time, I fiddled with a variety of clamps at the bow. This time, I fashioned a wooden block that can be clamped against the bow by way of the back of the stem. It provides a good, clean, simple way of clamping. I need to take the time to make special clamps like this in the future; worth the extra time for a clean assembly process.

 

I also experimented with steaming and clamping the top plank on the port side directly to the hull, not to my former. The next day, the spring-back was so great that I steamed the piece again and clamped it in the former, now upside down, to make the piece symmetrical to the starboard piece. It now lays nicely against the hull.

 

Time to watch the Olympics!

 

Mark

 

 

[druxey]

Nice clean work, Mark. However, did you taper the plank thickness around to the rabbet? Or will you do that later?

[SJSoane]

Hi druxey,

 

I tapered the plank down to about 1 ½" oversize at the rabbet, leaving room for some leveling. The temporary batten above the wales is not tapered, and is blocking our view of the tapered plank below in these photos. Incidentally, this was also causing me some problems in seeing if the plank was truly clamped tight at this point, one of the reasons I made the custom clamping block to ensure a tight fit. Next time I should taper the batten as well.

 

And thanks for checking. It is easy to lose track of details in these complex, multi-step phases. I forgot to trim the length of the first plank before I steamed it, and so had to pare it back while holding the curved surface steady on a cutting block. Would have been easier if I had done it when the piece was flat.

 

It was thrilling to see all of the teams march into the Olympic stadium last night. Young people all over the world united in a common cause of attempting to achieve their very best! And there was a ship and a boat....

 

Best wishes,

 

Mark

[Jim Lad]

Delightful work, Mark.

 

John