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Posted
47 minutes ago, Louie da fly said:

No worries, Carl. You can buy drill bits in both metric and imperial (inches) here in Oz.

 

Steven

I know, Steven, but most use metric nowadays ... at least so it seems ... feeling not so imperial anymore? ;)

 

12 minutes ago, SHIPSCAT said:

Hello Cog and Sam

My drill bits are Metric.

 

Jo.

I knew it! Hence my question for metric Jo.

 

Carl

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted

    If you can get a square head screw driver and square head screws they would also be easier for you.  The bit won't slip out as bad as with those  Phillips (X) head screws and you don't have to bear down on it so hard to keep the bit engaged with the screw head.  Thus you can spare some wear and tear on your wrist.

    Of course you could always buy an electric or rechargeable power drill with a square head bit, but no sense doing that unless you plan on having a lot of screws to drive.

Dave

“You’ve just got to know your limitations”  Dirty Harry

Current Builds:  Modified MS 1/8” scale Phantom, and modified plastic/wood hybrid of Aurora 1:87 scale whaling bark Wanderer.

Past Builds: (Done & sold) 1/8” scale A.J. Fisher 2 mast schooner Challenge, 1/6” scale scratch built whaler Wanderer w/ plans & fittings from A.J. Fisher, and numerous plastic kits including 1/8” scale Revell U.S.S. Constitution (twice), Cutty Sark, and Mayflower.

                  (Done & in dry dock) Modified 1/8” scale Revell U.S.S. Constitution w/ wooden deck and masting [too close encounter w/conc. floor in move]

Hope to get to builds: MS 3/16” scale Pride of Baltimore II,  MS 1/2” scale pinky schooner Glad Tidings,  a scratch build 3/16” scale  Phantom, and a scratch build 3/16" scale Denis Sullivan.

Posted

Ai, that ain't nice. You don't get a like for that. You want to solve this I presume ...

 

What I would do:

  • Get a piece of wood with the same thickness.
  • Copy the outline to a piece of paper and adjust/correct the crooked part.
  • Paste the drawing onto the wood, and cut it out with a "mini saw bow". Cut it just outside the line, which will make it slightly to big.
  • When finished sand the surplus off carefully.
  • Sand off the drawing and stick it on the keel.

 

If you want an easier way out:

  • Correct the shape of the blue rectangle on the left side. The gap at the bottom will get bigger, but we'll deal with that later.
  • File or sand the top to the horizontal you need.
  • Take some scrap pieces of wood (probably there is some in the box, else you need to quickly start to collect scrap wood ;) )with straight sides.
  • Glue those pieces to the sides of the blue rectangle (front and back), in such a way, the sides of the scrap wood follow the correct line of the vertical slot. Do it on both sides.

Voila, quick an' dirty

 

Who said you wouldn't get value for money ...

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted

Jolene, I would take about a 1" wide file to both of those problems, that size file's thickness is about the right size for the bulkhead slots also. You don't have to be super perfect on the slot, you can hold or clamp the bulkhead in the correct place and pin it with CA glue, then fill in any spaces with more CA. If you don't yet have some files, buy some, you need from about 1" wide down to fairly small in size, as for shapes, flat ones and round ones at least. No you don't have to answer me individually, build your ship.

Posted

Hey Jo! Let me talk to you about the "learning process" in this hobby.

If you check build logs, (which I recommend you take some time to do) you will see that almost all of them have something in common: mistakes.

And those mistakes come in two forms: mistakes WE make, and mistakes in the kit, be it in the physical pieces or in the drawings/instructions. No kit is perfect.

The important thing is to learn how to cope with mistakes. If you study your plans and instructions ahead, you may detect mistakes in the plans or instructions and try to go around them. If you make a mistake because you didn't understand something, or just didn't pay enough attention to the instructions, by all means, go back and fix it. I can't tell you how many times I have done this, and the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you get!

People often thinks that Patience is the foremost skill you need in this hobby, I would say it is Perseverance. Keep on it!

 

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

Posted

Hello

 

Part 16.

You can see how far it is out of line, the centre wooden strip is in place as per the instructions.

 

The red line is how it should be.

I am not sure if the frame should be on a slant or not as the plans don't indicate it if it should be or not.

 

I think the best thing to do is file the top down to the red line and file the slot to the blue line like some of you have said.

 

Jo.

 

1683139508_ILLEUDO4_0003.thumb.jpg.5bc7c9831b19e0edfa01b0d9eaf0fd1a.jpg

Current Build:

IL Leudo - Mamoli - 1:34

 

FD10 Arnanes 701 Billings scale 1:50

 

"Good conversations are the ones you have with people you do not know"

Posted

Gidday Jo.

It is a pity that you find yourself in this situation on your first build. However together we, me and the other members, shall overcome the problem.

I agree with the above posts suggesting filing the keel and maybe packing the frame slot in the keel to straighten everything up.

I hope I haven't confused the issue.

Wishing you all the best in your build.

Mark.

Posted

It's a pity that there's no logs anywhere I can find, here or anywhere else.   So... Can the entire keel with the stern piece be laid on the plans or are the plans a different size? It could be that (if you can) remove the stern bit from the rest of it and adjust it then reinstall.  To my eye, the aft end should have aslight tip forward while yours is canted back a bit.   My concern here is that if you just correct it like you're planning, something else will reach out and bite you since the shape isn't right.   

 

If the slot is vertical, than the last bulkhead/frame will also be vertical.

 

Then again, I also believe in close counts and you are darn close.  ;)

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted

mtaylor has the right idea to compare the shape to the plan sheet.  You have discovered the biggest problem with older Mamoli kits that are not laser cut - poorly cut parts.  You may also want to compare the shape of the bulkheads to the plans before glueing them in place - you will probably find some of them a bit off.  Good luck!

 

Mark

current build - HMS Vanguard - Model Shipways

 

Posted
13 hours ago, mtaylor said:

Can the entire keel with the stern piece be laid on the plans

Hi Mark.

Yes I can take the frames out and lay it on the plans.

But I will have to take the part 16 off and that is glued on with Titebond.

 

Jo.

Current Build:

IL Leudo - Mamoli - 1:34

 

FD10 Arnanes 701 Billings scale 1:50

 

"Good conversations are the ones you have with people you do not know"

Posted

For ungluing it, try isopropyl alcohol.  It may take soaking a small cloth with it and wrapping the whole thing with plastic wrap to let it penetrate.    I've not used Titebond but can only report what others have done.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted

Greetings SHIPSCAT. 
Here's another observation about building this kit. Problems started with skeleton ..
I keep my fingers crossed for the building .. Maybe this information will help you..

https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=100656 O.

Ondras.

Done : President - https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=90230
Under construction : Roter Lowe - https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=114576

 

Member of the organizing clubhttps://wchs-c-2023.klom-admiral.cz/en

Posted

Jo,

Here in the States you can get rubbing alcohol (isopropyl) at drug stores. Not sure what they are called in your part of the world wherever that may be. Its where we get proscriptions filled and first aid items here. It does work with the titebond 1 and 2, not so sure about Titebond 3 though.

 

Oh Carl.... you are SUCH a puny man!!!😅

 

Sam

 

Current Build Constructo Enterprise

Posted

Sam ???????? I have the feeling my English knowledge doesn't meet the requirements to understand the meaning behind your words

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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