Mosquito B Mk IV - FINISHED - Revell - My next non-ship project

[cog]

Getting black as good as you did is quite hard, well done

[Old Collingwood]

26 minutes ago, cog said:

Getting black as good as you did is quite hard, well done

Thank you carl,   I think a combination of  perseverance  and  stubbornness   not to let it beat me,   also  driven by wanting to make my  late farther proud, also not trying to do to much or achieve too much when  dog tired  - but save for better days like yesterday was.

 

OC.

Edited April 26, 2020 by Old Collingwood

[Canute]

Take care of yourself, OC No rush for completion dates. Your Mossie is looking good, mate.

[Old Collingwood]

36 minutes ago, Canute said:

Take care of yourself, OC No rush for completion dates. Your Mossie is looking good, mate.

Thank you kindly Ken.

 

OC.

[Javlin]

8 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Kevin, just to clarify, is the issue that the decals OC used were flat and not glossy, and therefore one would seal the paint with a flat clear coat before applying the decals?

 

And once the decals are applied, even if flat, can one add a gloss coat to seal the decals and begin weathering?  This is the first time I’ve come across that there are flat decals out there and am trying to learn what to look out for  

Mike in away,I use Semi-Gloss enamel by Model Master to seal the paint and it will tone down a gloss paint also then I apply the semi again after the decals are laid then  hit it flat unless it's NM finish.

[Old Collingwood]

15 minutes ago, Javlin said:

Mike in away,I use Semi-Gloss enamel by Model Master to seal the paint and it will tone down a gloss paint also then I apply the semi again after the decals are laid then  hit it flat unless it's NM finish.

Thats what I have in jar/pot form  Tamiya Semi Gloss top coat,  I will be brushing it on once all the decs are on, then I will blast over with a couple of coats of Tamiya rattle can  Flat top coat  (after leaving the semi gloss  a  good few days to harden)

 

OC.

[Kevin]

looking real nice my friend

 

[popeye the sailor]

good to see your pressing on OC.....the plane is really coming along nicely     I've run into a lot with decals..........making my own at times shows me more.  yup......some are done in flat and some are glossy.....obvious to most that if a company makes kits......wartime models,  that they should be done in a flat format.  excess film is another problem that some decal makers have remedied.....printing their decals as stand alone and not in a long strip......numbering and lettering.  the excess flashing around decals is yet another......trimming close to the image cleans them up fairly well,  but make sure your using a very sharp pair of scissors.  I don't do it all the time,  but trimming and applying the numbering one piece at a time will save some of the grief.  .....and in the event that they do appear glossier than the surface your applying them to,   flat top coats will take care of them.  

 

gonna look great when Mosi gets her wings   

[Old Collingwood]

4 hours ago, Kevin said:

looking real nice my friend

 

Thank you so much Kevin,  good wishes to you and the family stay well my friend.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

36 minutes ago, popeye the sailor said:

good to see your pressing on OC.....the plane is really coming along nicely     I've run into a lot with decals..........making my own at times shows me more.  yup......some are done in flat and some are glossy.....obvious to most that if a company makes kits......wartime models,  that they should be done in a flat format.  excess film is another problem that some decal makers have remedied.....printing their decals as stand alone and not in a long strip......numbering and lettering.  the excess flashing around decals is yet another......trimming close to the image cleans them up fairly well,  but make sure your using a very sharp pair of scissors.  I don't do it all the time,  but trimming and applying the numbering one piece at a time will save some of the grief.  .....and in the event that they do appear glossier than the surface your applying them to,   flat top coats will take care of them.  

 

gonna look great when Mosi gets her wings   

Thank you for the kind words Denis,   I should have looked into  trimming the decals  with a rule  and blade,   but it occured to me after fitting them,   but its something I will look into if I come across  decs like these again.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

More progress  today  - my building has a pattern  - you can tell waht the weather is like by what time I spend at the table,    anyway  more progress on mossie,     I carried on attaching the various decals  on the fuselage  including the  bomb drop count  and  grin reaper,   I then put a first coat of micro sol, and put it aside,    then it was time to have a llok at the wing and stabs that had been sprayed  - I gently removed the paper/blue tak  masks  and gave them a wipe down with soapy water, then I  gave then a gentle rub over with  fine wet and dry  (as I have been trying to age the paintwork slightly to show fadded/rubbed areas from use.    I also used my pencil  and worked along some of the panel lines/around obstructions,   the wing still needs the roundel  and other decs.

 

Here is a few pics showing a dry run with wings attached  not glued o yet.

 

OC.

[Egilman]

I think it's coming out beautiful brother, but then I'm kinda partial to camo on great planes...

[Old Collingwood]

4 minutes ago, Egilman said:

I think it's coming out beautiful brother, but then I'm kinda partial to camo on great planes...

Thank you  EG.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Think I have Wrecked it,     I  decided to apply the  Tamiya Acrylic  Semi Gloss  top coat  from a Bottle  by brush,   I brushed it on as well as I could, when covered I used the hairdryer  and the result   A Cloudy Mess   just Horendous.

 

So I thought as its Acrylic  it should wipe off  using soapy water and a sponge   - "Wrong  Wrong Idea"

 

Dont know what I am gonna do now,    even if I could re paint the whole things  (so dont want to have to do all that again)   I dont have any replacement  decals.

 

Disspaointed  dont cut it to be honest.

 

OC.

[mtaylor]

Not liking that OC.  Other than somehow removing the paint and starting over and finding decals I have no idea how to fix this disaster.  

[Old Collingwood]

5 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

Not liking that OC.  Other than somehow removing the paint and starting over and finding decals I have no idea how to fix this disaster.  

Dont understand why it happened  reaction between  tamiya  rattle can  and acrylic?

 

Still keep looking at it with diss-belief.

 

OC.

[mtaylor]

Humidity maybe?   

[Egilman]

20 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

Dont understand why it happened  reaction between  tamiya  rattle can  and acrylic?

 

Still keep looking at it with diss-belief.

 

OC.

I don't think it was a reaction.... My thinking was to the heat of the hair dryer. I have a suggestion.....

I don't think it will hurt it at this point....

Say on the rudder where it is discolored the worst?  Try coating it again, only this time allow it to dry on it's own.... 

 

My mind says it cured too fast not allowing the material to cure from the inside out. the heat created a skin over the top which didn't allow the insides to completely degass.. That causes the skin formed to cloud up.... My hope is that the clouding is only surface and a reapplication will smooth out the problem.... Try it on a small area and see if it works....

 

I'm just making a suggestion based upon educated guess at this point I don't know if it will work, but it's worth a try....

 

the only other option is a strip and repaint....

[Old Collingwood]

Just now, mtaylor said:

Humidity maybe?   

Shouln't have been any  - was indoors  no heating on  and about  18deg  I keep telling myself  "should have just sprayed the Tamiya rattle can  flat  over it  and not tried to  even up the gloss coat first, perhaps you can not apply acrylic  over the top of  Tamiya rattle cans   as they are laquar  and not acrylic.

 

To try to rescue it would mean trying to get a smooth surface  then re masking  the entire rear section from the fuselage joining section,  meaning  fresh black  and on the tail/rudder, fresh camo  on the top,   I have found in the box  and alternative  large code with side roundel  and  registration code, but no spare tail decals  (that would have to be left blanc.

 

Just the thought of  having to re do it again  - a third time   - this kit is becoming a real knitmare.

 

OC.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

5 minutes ago, Egilman said:

I don't think it was a reaction.... My thinking was to the heat of the hair dryer. I have a suggestion.....

I don't think it will hurt it at this point....

Say on the rudder where it is discolored the worst?  Try coating it again, only this time allow it to dry on it's own.... 

 

My mind says it cured too fast not allowing the material to cure from the inside out. the heat created a skin over the top which didn't allow the insides to completely degass.. That causes the skin formed to cloud up.... My hope is that the clouding is only surface and a reapplication will smooth out the problem.... Try it on a small area and see if it works....

 

I'm just making a suggestion based upon educated guess at this point I don't know if it will work, but it's worth a try....

 

the only other option is a strip and repaint....

Thank you EG,   the problem is  the sponge I used  has scratched the paintwork now  (I tried wetting it to see if it would clean up  but no good)   I think the paintwork is no good now.

 

But thank you for your thoughts mate.

 

OC.

[Egilman]

2 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

Thank you EG,   the problem is  the sponge I used  has scratched the paintwork now  (I tried wetting it to see if it would clean up  but no good)   I think the paintwork is no good now.

 

But thank you for your thoughts mate.

 

OC.

Ok, so since the paint is damaged at this point it becomes a strip and repaint... but before you go further, try what I suggested, that will at least confirm my theory and the way to fix it. either way in the future we will know what not to do, and if we do anyway, how to fix it....

 

Don't worry about the decals, they have a way of fixing themselves....

[Old Collingwood]

Thanks EG,   I will try  on the tail  first  as its a controled area  Its Tamiya  X35   Semi Gloss  Clear   it a bit on the thick side  but I have no  way  apart from distilled water  to  dilute it.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

I have just this minute had a got  on the tail, I re - applied the X35  by wide brush  I worked it in well but smoothly  and started to see the cloudyness  smoothout  and show the dark Black underneath  and same in the decal (that is damaged from rubbing)    But,  after a  few minutes letting it dry on its own  the  cloudyness  is coming back  only difference is its a gloss  cloudyness  not flat.

 

OC.

[Egilman]

Just now, Old Collingwood said:

I have just this minute had a got  on the tail, I re - applied the X35  by wide brush  I worked it in well but smoothly  and started to see the cloudyness  smoothout  and show the dark Black underneath  and same in the decal (that is damaged from rubbing)    But,  after a  few minutes letting it dry on its own  the  cloudyness  is coming back  only difference is its a gloss  cloudyness  not flat.

 

OC.

Well that confirms what caused it, too much heat catalyzed the acrylic before it could cure....

 

I'm sorry brother.... she was beautiful...... she will be again this is only a setback....

 

 

[Old Collingwood]

8 minutes ago, Egilman said:

Well that confirms what caused it, too much heat catalyzed the acrylic before it could cure....

 

I'm sorry brother.... she was beautiful...... she will be again this is only a setback....

 

 

Gutted  as I got the wings close to perfect.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

If I decide to  re paint the rear section  - any thoughts on prepping the surface as I dont have any solutions for taking the paint back,   would it work  just fine wet and drying  just to flatten the decs back  so fresh paint  Tamiya rattle laquar cans   can go over the top?

 

OC.

[Javlin]

46 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

Shouln't have been any  - was indoors  no heating on  and about  18deg  I keep telling myself  "should have just sprayed the Tamiya rattle can  flat  over it  and not tried to  even up the gloss coat first, perhaps you can not apply acrylic  over the top of  Tamiya rattle cans   as they are laquar  and not acrylic.

OC I was building a small cabinet for the wife to go in a bathroom solid black and she has been prone to the oriental black very glossy and deep.I think I applied the lacquer clear first and it had cured well   and for some reason applied an acrylic clear and it cracked like crazy spider webbed.Those two do not mingle well at all sorry as heck to see this happen Kevin

[Old Collingwood]

2 minutes ago, Javlin said:

OC I was building a small cabinet for the wife to go in a bathroom solid black and she has been prone to the oriental black very glossy and deep.I think I applied the lacquer clear first and it had cured well   and for some reason applied an acrylic clear and it cracked like crazy spider webbed.Those two do not mingle well at all sorry as heck to see this happen Kevin

I assumed the Tamiya Rattle cans  (I was told they are  laquars  but for kits)   and Acrylic  would have been ok,   I was told and read  to be careful  spraying  Tamiya  rattle can  clear coat laquars over decals  as they can  carck them if to much is sprayed  in one go.

 

OC.

[Egilman]

11 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

I assumed the Tamiya Rattle cans  (I was told they are  laquars  but for kits)   and Acrylic  would have been ok, 

I'm sorry brother, I didn't catch that, no acryls ever get applied over true lacquers... period why cause lacquers, the real lacquers can take up to two months to completely degass (dry/cure) once you have applied a true lacquer you have to stay on that road....

 

Lacquers are lacquers whether or not it be applied to a model or a car or a piece of furniture.... they don't mix with anything well at all..... (and they can take forever to cure)

[Old Collingwood]

7 minutes ago, Egilman said:

I'm sorry brother, I didn't catch that, no acryls ever get applied over true lacquers... period why cause lacquers, the real lacquers can take up to two months to completely degass (dry/cure) once you have applied a true lacquer you have to stay on that road....

 

Lacquers are lacquers whether or not it be applied to a model or a car or a piece of furniture.... they don't mix with anything well at all..... (and they can take forever to cure)

Truly a lesson for future builds  - painting with laquars  keep it just laquars, painting with Acrylics  keep it Just Acrylics , I never use Enamels anymore.

 

OC.