HMS Victory by Rob S - Mamoli - 1/90th scale - first build

[allanyed]

Rob,

Kudos for your efforts!   Perhaps a smaller, better quality kit, would be a better way to go in the future.  Study photos of contemporary models on some of the details.   For example, the battens on the grating should be running fore and aft and the ledges athwartships rather than the other way around.  The coamings and head ledges do not have 45 degree cuts on the ends, but rather the head ledges and coamings are mortised so the head ledges rest on top of the coamings.   All comes from doing a little research, which can be a lot of fun, rather than guessing, or worse, relying on instructions from most kits.  For planking, you might want to consider studying the tutorials here at MSW before attempting the next planking job.  Keep at it and take joy in the project!

Allan

[Rob S]

Continuing adding the 20 columns between the upper and quarter decks. They are roughly 20mm tall with variances between 1-3mm. I’ve included a photo showing the progression from unfinished 20mm x 3mm x 3mm block to the finished column. I start by cutting the blocks with a small, fine saw, with a bit of sanding at the ends. Then, I mark the 3mm points top and bottom with a pencil. I then use a razor to cut slits along the 3mm lines and then shave the center of the block with the razor. The last step is sanding.  Not perfect, but works for me. 

[Henke]

The columns adds detail to the gun deck and makes it look more "busy" as plastic modelers say. Thank you for posting Rob!

 

Best regards

 

Henrik

[Rob S]

Thank you Henrik! Your Aggie is coming along nicely. Well done!

Edited January 25, 2022 by Rob S
Punctuation

[Rob S]

Columns continuing to go in. The gap between the upper deck and Scarphed Skid Beams is not uniform, necessitating tailoring each column for the 1-2mm gap difference. 

[allanyed]

Hi Rob,

I have attached a photo of a contemporary model of Victory circa 1765 at RMG.  I assume the kit gives their own design, but note the level of the top of the gratings compared to the coaming and ledges, and the cross pieces in the waist rest on metal saddles as there was no coaming around the waist.  While this is not exactly as she appeared overall in 1805, (she still has a white bottom versus copper sheathing) these features are still valid. Probably a relatively easy fix.

Allan

Edited January 28, 2022 by allanyed

[Rob S]

Thanks for the observations and suggestions Allan… something for the ‘to do’ list. Columns fitted.

 

[Rob S]

On 8/6/2019 at 2:04 PM, Rob S said:

2 x ladders complete and one installed.  Very tight fit.  Some light sanding on the side, but still a bit too large.  Planning to use a small string to position on the top step, place it on the small/false deck, pull the aft ladder up and glue in place. 

Looking closer at these ladders I realized they were installed upside down…. Will need to remove, sand, reposition and the reinstall. 

[Rob S]

Starting the 4 x ladders connecting the quarter to upper decks. A nice pair of serviceable needle nose pliers really help.

[Rob S]

4 x ladders constructed and installed. 

[Rob S]

Beginning fabrication and installation of the Topsail Sheet Bitts and Main Topbowline Bitts assemblies. Working with the small parts is trying given the wood is old and brittle. 

[Rob S]

Next step. Putting the small indents in for cannon balls is difficult because of the wood condition. 

[Rob S]

Installed. 

[Rob S]

Measuring, shaping and installing the timber heads.  Roughly 2mm x 3mm x 14mm dimensions. Eleven per side.

[allanyed]

Regarding your timberheads, it may be easier to cut the openings in the cap rail before permanently gluing it in place as the timberheads come through the rail similar to how you show the timberheads in the beakhead bulkhead rail.  One other thing for the future, the hatch coamings, the head ledges are cambered and rest on top of the coaming pieces, rather than the 45 degree joint.  (Sketch below)

These are seemingly little things that probably do not matter for some, but do matter for others.  In the end, always your own choice as to what makes you happy.

Cheers

 

Allan

 

 

 

[Rob S]

Thank you Allan; I will endeavor to address your comments in future activities. Here is how we stand as of now:)

 

 

[Rob S]

Timber head progress….

[Rob S]

More finishing work. A small hand held/powered drill was very helpful in making the holes.

[Rob S]

Looking for some help here folks. I’m starting the belfry buildup and not certain if I should be using the shown columns. It’s not clear in the Mamoli directions shown. I don’t want to use these in the belfry only to find out the pieces are required somewhere else in the build. It appears they would need to be modified as shown. Appreciate any thoughts on the matter. Thanks in advance!

[Ian_Grant]

Doesn't look much like the real one:

 

[Gregory]

Those are some generic balusters found in a lot of kits.  How do the dimensions match up with the 'scaled' drawings on the plans?

 

You could use some square stock to make something like Ian's pic, without a lot of trouble.  I think the Mamoli parts are a fair compromise.

Making every detail look like the real thing sort of negates the purpose of building a kit.  It's not a realistic goal.

 

If you run short of those balusters, I'm sure I have a few of those in my stash I would be happy to share..

[Rob S]

2 hours ago, Gregory said:

Those are some generic balusters found in a lot of kits.  How do the dimensions match up with the 'scaled' drawings on the plans?

 

You could use some square stock to make something like Ian's pic, without a lot of trouble.  I think the Mamoli parts are a fair compromise.

Making every detail look like the real thing sort of negates the purpose of building a kit.  It's not a realistic goal.

 

If you run short of those balusters, I'm sure I have a few of those in my stash I would be happy to share..

Thank’s for your kind offer Gregory. The balusters match up pretty well per the drawings with the mods shown. I just wanted to ensure I wouldn’t need them later. These 4 should do:)

[Rob S]

Installing the ropes between the quarterdeck railing. Challenge is keeping the rope taut as I work the knots. Here was the process for the first rope.  I’ll look in the rigging section for tips on doing this correctly. Other than that, perhaps YouTube may have some tutorials I can watch. 

[Rob S]

Running the railing….

[Rob S]

Railings coming along. My dexterity could use some improvement! 

[allanyed]

Hi Rob,

Do you or does anyone here know if railings. metal or otherwise, were set around the waist on Victory or any other ship other than now as a museum?   I suspect these were installed due to modern day safety laws and fear of lawsuits.  So far I cannot find one contemporary model with a railing around the waist in the Preble Hall collection or the RMG collection.   

 

Same for the pillars under the skid beams.  I have seen some contemporary models with single row on the center line but never four rows.   Am I correct in that these are from the kit instructions or are they from the contemporary plans? 

 

As an example there is a high resolution inboard profile on the Wiki Commons sit of Glory 1788, a 98 gun ship.   The plan shows the pillars for all deck, but there are none in the waist area.  A portion of the plan is below.

Thanks

Allan

 

Edited July 10, 2022 by allanyed

[Rob S]

4 hours ago, allanyed said:

Hi Rob,

Do you or does anyone here know if railings. metal or otherwise, were set around the waist on Victory or any other ship other than now as a museum?   I suspect these were installed due to modern day safety laws and fear of lawsuits.  So far I cannot find one contemporary model with a railing around the waist in the Preble Hall collection or the RMG collection.   

 

Same for the pillars under the skid beams.  I have seen some contemporary models with single row on the center line but never four rows.   Am I correct in that these are from the kit instructions or are they from the contemporary plans? 

 

As an example there is a high resolution inboard profile on the Wiki Commons sit of Glory 1788, a 98 gun ship.   The plan shows the pillars for all deck, but there are none in the waist area.  A portion of the plan is below.

Thanks

Allan

 

Thanks Allan. The skid beam pillars are shown in Longridge’s book ‘The Anatomy of Nelson’s Ships’, Plan #1. See attached. I’ll look at the railings. In either case, they both were included with the kit and shown in the instructions. 

[Rob S]

The skid beam pillars are also shown in McKay’s ‘The 100-Gun Ship Victory’, page 38. Rails are depicted on page 40, but the rail material is not specified. 

[allanyed]

Hi Rob,

I would trust Longridge and McKay but the top view does not show how many rows,  Four seems excessive compared to just one row down the centerline.    

 

As far as the railings, I would never trust Mamoli nor a few other kit makers without first confirming by checking contemporary based sources including Longridge and McKay as well as contemporary plans such as those on the Wiki Commons site and RMG Collections site. 

 

Thanks for sharing your build, it is delight to follow! 😀

 

Edited July 11, 2022 by allanyed

[Rob S]

I decided to start adding the lower deck cannons before continuing with the deck finishing efforts.