Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum

[JSGerson]

Beautifully done netting on your Battle Station. I actually thought about doing something similar but the scale was just too small for me to handle. I have no idea what the netting (if it existed at all on the Rattlesnake mast tops) scale/spacing should be so I used what material I had. It seems to work.

 

Jon

[JSGerson]

Before I tackled the braces, I needed to add the rope coils to the various belay pins and cleats. If I didn’t, getting access to the inner areas of the deck would become more difficult than it already was.

[JSGerson]

Braces

 

Again working stern to stem, bottom to top, the braces were installed. The Crossjack braces were unique in that they originated on the Main backstay on one side, went through a block hung from the tip of the Crossjack yard on the opposite side, back through a block on the original backstay, and belayed to the deadeye below.

[JSGerson]

Clew Garnets

 

Next came the four clew garnets and their associate tack block clusters (I think I got those terms right). They’re supposed to be attached to the bottom corners of the main sails if I were to install them. Sorry, no sails on this model.

 

The block clusters are made up of 2 10” (4.0 mm) and 1 12” (5.0 mm) blocks

[JSGerson]

The 8 tack lines were then installed. Six of them originated from an eyebolt on the outside of the hull through a 4 mm block in the cluster and back through a hull sheave to be belayed on a bulwark cleat. The other two originated from a 4 mm block on the boomkin, through the 4mm cluster block, back to the originating boomkin block, and then to be belayed at the bow pinrail.

[JSGerson]

This is a big milestone: All of the rigging is installed. That being said, there still some work to be done:

·        Belay all the remaining lines

·        Repair:

o   Rudder straps – some of the original paper ones came off

o   Anchor tie down line – replace snapped line

o   Gunport doors – glue back on

·        Add the flags with their associated blocks and halyards

·        Rework the model stand – the model wobbles too much

·        Buy the cut Plexiglas for the case

·        Stain and assemble the model case

·        Obtain a table for the case to sit on

[usedtosail]

Nicely done, JS. She looks great.

[CaptainSteve]

This is a big milestone: All of the rigging is installed. That being said, there still some work to be done:

 /.....

·        Stain and assemble the model case

·        Obtain a table for the case to sit on

 

You forgot one final bullet-point:

• Crack open celebratory bottle of champagne.

 

Lookin' good, JS !!

[DocBlake]

Beautiful work, Jonathan.  Outstanding.

[KenW]

Congratulations!  Your model looks like you can almost "taste" its completion.  Shouldn't take much longer.

It looks like an outstanding model. 

Be happy; be proud.

Cheers.

[JSGerson]

 

 

Congratulations!  Your model looks like you can almost "taste" its completion.  Shouldn't take much longer.

Ken, I like your optimism. Based on my past "speed," I'm guessing a least another month to say "done". As it is, nothing will be accomplished till after Xmas due to other commitments. Hopefully things will go smooth and I won't break anything. 8-)

 

To all who have endured my snail pace following me, thank you. The adventure is nearing its end, but is not quite over...yet.

 

Jon

[Martin W]

Terrific Jon!  It won't be over till it's under the plexiglass case, and you're well into your next build (Constitution?), and looking back at this with feelings of nostalgia for a job well done.  The Rattlesnake is a lovely ship, and you're bound to get loads of compliments.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[Don Quixote]

Beautiful job! You're kit is NOTHING like mine. I don't have any of those transfers, my keel was all one pcs.

[JSGerson]

JustBlowingInThe Wind - My kit was in fact exactly like yours... in the box. However, I bought Robert Hunt's practicum which showed me how to kit bash it. Without his instructions, I would never have attempted even to buy, let alone build such a kit. In order to follow along, I had to invest in a new wood package, new tools, books, and lots and lots of time. As it ended up, I would say that my build was at least 90 - 95% scratch built. The only thing I used from the kit were the excellent plans, keel framework, bulkheads, deadeyes, and maybe a few other odds and ends. I used Syren's rope and blocks for the most part. As an example of the kit bashing, the keel, as you noted, as well as the stem were replaced to make it more realistic.

[Don Quixote]

We won't be doing any bashing on this ship of that nature. I'm going to modify what I don't understand. Or at least Jerry rig things. Once my Victoria gets here I'll be going back and forth.

[JSGerson]

It’s been a while since my last post and believe it or not, some things were accomplished. I think I have belayed the remaining lines (you never know where a loose one may be), and repaired the anchor tie down and the gunport doors.

 

Sailor Figures

 

In addition to the list of things to do posted above, I forgot to mention I wanted to add some “scale” to the model so a while back I purchase some sailor figures to add to the final display. Taking a guess that the average height of a typical seaman, was 5’6” or 66”, at 1/64 scale that comes out to just a tiny fraction over 1 inch (25.4 mm). So, I purchased some Amati 25mm sailor figures.  I had some 1¼” figures but that worked out to a sailor being 6’ 8”. I imagine there were seamen of that size, but not a whole crew. I found some images of typical sailor attire of the period and proceeded to do my best at painting them onto the metal figures. I prepared the figures by dipping them in the acid solution I used for silver soldering to clean them of any oils and impurities and to my surprise, they blackened (yes, I did check to see if I used the right bottle). The darkened metal did not affect the painting process.

Using flat paints, a fine brush, and my magnifiers (eye loupes and headset) I proceeded on. When I saw the photographs I am posting, I noticed my fingers left some smudges giving them the appearance of being a bit grubby, not spit and polished. That work fine for me. These guys are supposed to be privateers, not regular navy

[JSGerson]

Flags

 

The kit flags were made of a stiff material and should hold their shape. I soaked them for a few minutes and they softened up a bit and added the wind contours. The kit instructed me to fold the side border material over the halyard line to fasten flag. I didn’t do that. After a bit of research I came upon a number of posts on this site which showed a flag diagram originally posted by Blue Ensign explaining how a flag is attached to the halyard. I followed his lead.

[JSGerson]

Gaff Flag Cleat

 

Then there was the old question I posed some time back when I was rigging the gaff. Where does the Gaff flag halyard belay? My initial though was to a cleat on the boom and as it turns out, the Mamoli plans show just that. However, at the last NRG convention in San Diego, a two-masted schooner ride was offered to the members which I partook. I noticed that when the sails were lowered, they covered the booms and any cleat that would have been there would have been buried under hundreds of pounds of sail canvas. Also, my research indicated that flag halyards are belayed at any convenient point on the deck. So, I decided to add a cleat to the aft railing.

 

Flag halyards are probably the smallest diameter rope used on the ship and I figured that any of the cleats I had were too big including Syren’s 5mm. Using a technique I developed when I was building the Mini-Mamoli solid hull schooner Evergreen, I made a 2mm metal cleat. Using a nail intended for a picture hook, I filed off the opposites of the nail head. By shaping with the file the remailing head and bending them slightly upwards, these would become the horns of the cleat. I also filed the shaft just under the horns to make the nail shaft a bit oval. This was the cleat. I needed a way to fasten the cleat to the rail so I formed a pin by putting the nail into a Dremel drill and very gently ground the shaft to the thickness of a #75 drill bit (0.021”) using the edge of a small file. The cleat was cut off the shaft and then blackened.

 

I wanted to place the cleat on the inside edge of the rail, but at this stage of the build, there was no way I could do that. It was placed on top. I documented the rudiments of this  technique (excluding the pin) some time back on The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy blog.

[JSGerson]

The flag on the Mizzenmast is not belayed on the model as it is being “hauled” by a sailor figure. The Foremast flag is belayed to the bitt rail.

 

That’s it. The model is complete and it only took me 7 years!

 

Display Case

 

I also worked on the display case and table. I purchased a Rosewood table from HandcraftedModelShips.com and case I got from Model Expo three years ago during a sale. They don’t make the cases but contract out to White's Woodworking in Osceola IA. The case was made from Red Oak without any finish which meant I could/had to stain it the obvious color, Rosewood. I couldn’t find any Rosewood stain locally and had to order it on the web. It took three coats to get it as dark as the table. The shade is close enough although not perfect, but it will have to do. The first picture shows the table in a temporary location with the base board and one case frame pillar before any stain

[JSGerson]

The height of the case can be shortened by slicing off the appropriate amount from the vertical frames. I cut 4” off. The frames have a 1/8” square groove on two adjacent sides for glass or in my case plexiglass. I didn’t relish the thought that the case could conceivable break and the glass shards do irretrievable damage.

 

The only real problem I had was that the case assembly instructions stated that the vertical posts needed to be predrilled to accept the wood screws so that the post would not split. I made the mistake of assuming that the drilled holes were to be dead center of the cross section of the posts; it was not. I should have marked the drill point from the predrilled hole in the top frame the post connected to. So the holes did not line up properly and I will have to fill with plastic wood and re-drill. I have no woodworking background, so live and learn.

[JSGerson]

The last pictures will be posted when the case is finalized, the model cradle is tweaked, and the model is inside.

 

[KenW]

Congratulations!!  Your model looks great.

Don't worry about how long it takes - this is a hobby right.  As 'russ' states, "Tain't a hobby of you hurry".

Where did you get the case?  In particular the plexiglass plates.  I can't get 1/8th inch thick; they tell me that it is too thin.

Anyway, great job and enjoy your effort.

Cheers.

[russ]

Lovely model. Congratulations on a fine piece of work. The case looks great as well.

 

Russ

[Zapto]

Hello, this is a wonderful ship build, i really enjoy reading about creating and detailing it.

I wish to build so big ship one day, but it needs so much patient.

Enjoy it!

[CaptainSteve]

Fantastic job, JS. She looks great !!

And your log has been a joy to follow along.

[JSGerson]

KenW - I got the  1/8" plexiglass at my local glass shop (auto and other repair). I initially tried Lowe's but they were all out. The I went up the street to Home Depot (they always seen to come in pairs, don't know why) and they did have it but they would not custom cut it like Lowe's would have. The third try was a charm; the glass shop had it and custom cut for me. They even re-cut it again (no charge) when I realized my dimensions were a little off and it needed a minor trim. I had to get 1/8" thickness because that is what the case required. Once the wooden frame was around the plastic, the panels were very sturdy. 

 

The case (No. GM7W) I got from Model Expo as I mentioned in post #949 above

 

Hope this helps

 

To all - Thank very much for your "likes" and following me on this long slow journey. Once I've buttoned up the model in the display, configured and customized my new computer, and taken a small breather, stay tuned and I will start the next journey on the USS Constitution

 

Jon

Edited February 12, 2017 by JSGerson

[Martin W]

Hi Jon -- Those figures are a neat touch, and you did a really good job in designing & painting on their outfits.  Your case makes me green.  My Rattlesnake is sitting high atop a book case, and it attracts dust no matter how often I blow it off.  Every time I pass the glass shop, I think about dropping in an getting prices, but still have not.

 

Yes, this has been a good informative log.  Can't wait to see your Rattlesnake in its proud berth.  And, natch, I'll be following your Connie build!

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[JSGerson]

Name Plate

 

I had a name plate made from a local trophy shop. I gave them a mock-up I created in Powerpoint, and they reproduced it beautifully.

[JSGerson]

FINISHED

 

Well here they are, the last planned official images of my Rattlesnake, safe and snug in her case. For those who followed my loooonnnnnng and s l o w build over the past seven years, once again, thank you for being so patient and thank you for all the “likes.” 

[russ]

She looks great. I really like the name plate. The model is its case is awesome. Congratulations again.

 

Russ