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Posted

Sorry to have broken the rules and, of course, will comply. Deletion on sight seems a bit heavy handed. Seems like a gentle reminder would be quite effective. No one is trying to turn this into a multi-lingual site, least of all me. Just trying to be courteous and return greetings to some whose English is not up to our level, but are still interested in the content or who may need help.

 

Sorry,

 

Ed

Posted

You were just being courteous which is fine so it was not aimed at you.

 

The problem with not deleting is that people wont necessarily read the warning on say page 32 and having seen foreign language posts on p30 or 31 will then think it is permitted. Equally editing every language post with a 'don't do this' is time consuming and defeats the purpose if the post is allowed to stand.

 

Anyway I don't want to hijack your build log by branching so will stop talking about it.

 

In a couple of weeks I can clear this and the original responses to clear the log up as well.

 

 

Joss

...

Posted (edited)

Perhaps instead of deleting, the authors can edit and post the translated comments. The order of the thread will not be affected. It is such interesting topic. Keep up all the good model making here and in Italy or anywhere were good efforts are made.

Edited by Roman
Posted

Salve, mi includo in questa discussione perchè anch'io ho infranto le regole del forum, ma senza sapertlo, comunque chiedo scusa. Siccome l'argomento è interessante, sarebbe un peccato escludere chi non sa l'inglese o ne capisce poco. Spero davvero nel buonsenso dei moderatori che ciò non accada, e comunque sia rispetterò la vostra decisione, grazie e cordiali saluti.

Lino

Posted (edited)

Here is a "Google Translate" Italian>English translation of Lino's last message. The translation is less than perfect, and my understanding of the first few translation words is shown in brackets. But it's good enough to be understood. I have suggested to Lino that he post his Italian>English translations at MSW .

 

Hi,
 
[i wish to be included] in this discussion because I too have broken the rules of the forum, but without knowing it. However, I apologize. As the topic is interesting, it would be a shame to exclude those who do not know English or understands little. I really hope in the common sense of the moderators that this does not happen, and will respect whatever your decision, thanks and best regards.
 
Lino
Edited by PETERPETER
Posted

great log. Thanks keep it up

John

Current Current Builds:

US Brig Niagara on my website

FINISHED BUILD LOGS:

New Bedford Whaleboat - page on my Morgan Website:  http://www.charleswmorganmodel.com/whaleboat-build-log-by-john-fleming.html

C.W. Morgan - Model Shipways 1:64 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1785-cw-morgan-by-texxn5-johnf-ms-164-kit/

USS Constitution - Revell 1:96 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1796-uss-constitution-by-texxn5-johnf-revell-196-kit/

 

website US Brig Niagara Model http://www.niagaramodel.com

website Charles W Morgan Model http://www.charleswmorganmodel.com

website PROXXON DISCOUNT TOOL STORE http://proxxontoolsdiscount.com

  • 4 weeks later...
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Posted

Hi Ed,

This is a great addition to Volume I of The Naiad Frigate, thank you for providing it for the "rest of us".

I have put together a building board and borrowed enough boxwood from a friend to start the keel while waiting for Jeff at the Hobby Mill to ship my framing package next month.  When it arrives I will  start my building log and become an official builder.

 

I have a question now regarding the rising wood--the drawing (#4) that is most clear (to me) shows the 18.5" x 6.5" wood connecting to the deadwood at about frame 21.5 and staying essentially level all the way forward to frame "O" where it connects to the lower apron.  However, I see your comment in the book about the rising wood becoming deeper vertically, curving upward as it approaches each end of the ship.  Where does the 6.5" depth start and end?; am I already going astray in my reading of the plan sheets?

 

Any guidance you can provide will be greatly appreciated! 

 

Gary

 

 

Posted

Hello, Gary.

 

I think of the rising wood, or "hogg" as it is sometimes called, as the part of the deadwood in the central part of the ship where it supports the full frames - frames 24 to O.  On Naiad, this member is the same breadth as the deadwood (18 1/2") and in the central part of the hull, from  frame line O back to the aft face of frame pair 20, it is 8 1/2" (not 6 1/2") deep. On Drawing 4 the top of the rising wood shows as a straight solid line 8 1/2" above the top of keel between the above points.  The size of this central part of the rising wood is also given on the notes sheet for drawing 4 on the CD.  Beyond this long straight section the deadwood rises in height. The correct heights can also be seen as the height of the notch on every frame pattern.

 

Full frames aft of this - 21 to 24 - have deeper notches to accomodate the higher line of what could also be called the rising wood (or the deadwood). 

 

In the area of frame 21 the rising wood transitions to the members of the aft deadwood.   See the Stem/Apron pattern sheet and the Deadwood Sternpost pattern sheets on the CD for addtional detail.  They show the pieces of the deadwood that abut the 8 1/2" straight rising wood at each end.

 

I hope this helps. 

 

Ed

Posted

Got it, Ed, thanks.  Yes, I did not check the pattern sheets from the CD earlier and was only going by a single drawing. 

 

I did measure the depth of the hogg with my calipers but didn't make the size connection by transferring, in my head, to the 1:60 conversion chart.  My question simply copied the (error?) from Chap. 5 of the book where the 6 1/2" depth was given.  The more important data is in the pattern and data sheets and now I am organizing those to give me more direction and detail.

 

And before I get into "trouble" again, I should ask about the pattern sheets--as I started printing those I thought I would be wanting to use soon, I noticed that my printer had some pages set up at 106% and most at 100%.  It is my belief that you stated elsewhere in your comments in MSW that everything provided was to be printed at exactly 100%.  Because only a relative few of the patterns were not at 100%, I decided to verify this with you.

 

Thanks again!

 

Gary

Posted

Gary, the 6 1/2" dimensional on p.45, col 1, para 4  is is typographical error.  I am aware of this and probably should have included it in one of the Addenda.  I have it on my list in case their is a second printing.  In general always use the drawings, drawings notes and other sheets as primary sources for dimensions.  Sorry about the typo.

 

I am pretty sure that the printing scale is set by your pdf print settings and not by the pattern sheet itself.  In any event, they should always be printed at 100% or actual size.  Pdf print settings sometimes default to "fit to page" or the previously printed scale.  I put some printing instructions in Addenda 2.  Here is the link

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/248-the-naiad-frigate-by-ed-tosti/page-2

 

If you have not already done so I suggest going through my posts on the Naiad Frigate Volume I topic and printing off all of the Addenda.  Some are corrections, some provide other information.  That topic is where I post anything relating to the book.  It is also the topic where most readers questions or comments are posted.  There is a link to the topics for both volumes at the bottom of this posting.

 

Also, if you find any other glitches, please post them there.

 

Ed

Posted

Thanks again, Ed; I did go thru the Addenda a while ago and now that I am into the keel assembly and mostly waiting for Jeff to get time to cut and ship my wood, I am getting formally organized with all the addenda and hot topics that help me with all the new skills I am learning in my "second career".

 

I did a comparison of the pdf 106% and 100% images as indicated by my printer commands and most are identical; I'm now just verifying that I am getting the 100% standard for the pages you have provided as I print them.  Of the mistakes I have made so far, this is not a source of error (yet).

 

I appreciate your prompt replies to my questions!

 

Gary

Posted

Hello Ed,
Your work is absolutely incredible a professional. My deep admiration to your genius talent.
Thank you for sharing, your thread brings a great inspiration!
Best regards

Doris
 

Doris

Current build:

HMS Royal Katherine 1664 from card

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Thank you very much, Doris. You are very kind. I admire the artistry of your work very much, so your comments are well appreciated. I am glad to see your work getting the attention of readers on this site that it deserves.

 

Ed

Posted

Greetings. I would like to ask you how you are satisfied with thickness sander ? Where you bought it and how much speed the engine is running ? Accuracy ?
Thanks ?

 

I can not send PM,your box is full or something !

Posted

Gary, if you have printed any patterns at 106%, I suggest you discard them. This difference is more than enough to give you untold headaches if they are used.

 

I am an advocate of the "just-in-time" approach in most modeling steps, so I print only the patterns I need at any particular time, and cut out only the pieces needed for the next step. I highly recommend this approach. It has many advantages.

 

 

Ed

Posted

Hi Ed

 

it is one of the great scratch  builds here on MSW, eyecandy for all who love to see precise, and accurate joining in Wood. Also very fine Plans you are using. I like the Approach you are taking to this Project, and tip my hat to your skill and Talent. Shall Keep an eye on this build...

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

Posted

That way of building can be a boon for a bane depending on what you are doing at the time.

David B

Posted

Thank you William.  I hope you will like the books.  Be sure to check out the links below to the book topics on this site.  Any addenda and corrections are/will be posted there as well as some other useful information.

 

Ed

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

In looking back at some of the posts, I found that many of the images were lost in the last system hiccup.  I have now replaced these.  I think/hope all have been reposted.  Let me know if I missed any.

 

Ed

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