Lining the hull

[Gremreeper1967]

Im having issues with the lining the hull technique for planking. I understand all of it until it is time to cut the plank. Can this technique be used with planks at 5mm wide? I don't see how the curves can be cut with a narrow plank.

[VTHokiEE]

I’m by no means a planking expert, but you’ll need to do some shaping with the plank to achieve the curves that you are looking for. There are several different ways to do this: some taper the plank and then bend the plank in a jig and iron it, some soak the plank fit it to the bulkhead and then either let it dry or heat it with a heat gun, I’ve seen people soak the plank and then let it dry in a jig off the model. There are a lot of different ways.

I’m starting to have success using the edge bending method. Here is a link to one of the videos on YouTube:

 

https://youtu.be/9T5C9rW2JkU

 

from there you can find the others in the series. Even from the videos I had a few questions that took me a little while to figure out. Such as using the tick strips with the marked hull to check your progress. 

 

[Chuck]

If you are cutting your planks to shape with the spiled curve, you will need to use a wide sheet the same thickness as your planking.

 

if you only have thin strips, you can bend them edge wise.  
 

see this video series

 

 

 

 

[glbarlow]

If I’m following your question cutting a plank to fit is very hard work and difficult to repeat for each plank. For me there are two steps, taper and bend. I use a 4-5mm plank, taper it to fit (so there are the same number of planks from top to bottom) then bend it into the curve to fit the hull.

 

My next step after lining the hull is tapering a plank to fit. If the plank at its widest point is 5mm at midship then you need to trim it along its length to, for example, 2.5mm (width determined by your tick marks) where it meets the bow. The next step is fitting that tapered strip to fit the inward and downward curves of the bow.

I’ve done planking the same way, taper-soak-twist for a long time. Recently I discovered Chuck’s plank bending technique, it works great. It takes a little practice and even with the excellent tutorials a little hands on work to get settled using it, but it’s well worth the time spent. The videos Chuck and VTH linked you to explain how that works. 
 

I hope this helps and I’m understanding your question.  There are tons of tutorials and methods on this site, it’s just about finding what works for you. But I’d try this one first.

Edited March 7, 2020 by glbarlow

[Tony Dee]

Hello

 

I'm very new here and am waiting for my first kit to arrive, the model shipways longboat 1:48. I'm very nervous about the planking step and have looked at numerous resources, videos, documents etc. on the subject. Is there any document or video that actually shows a step by step for lining off the hull and doing the plan that @Chuck refers to?

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Thanks 

Tony

 

BTW: The long boat will be my very first attempt at building a model ship. 

Edited April 17, 2020 by Tony Dee

[Chuck]

I would read through this log.... But keep in mind that you bought what I labeled as an advanced kit.  Primarily for the planking.   I have said it many times....that kit is not a beginner project at all.   But if you must, this is the best place to start.  Although it is of my larger design but the same principles are used.  

 

 

[Tony Dee]

ughhh, sorry @Chuck didn't know. When i spoke to the the sales person they said it was a great place to start. He also talked me into getting the pride of Baltimore which didn't look easy to me either. Guess i will have to take it very slow and methodical and follow along the different builds on here and learn as much as I can before doing anything. 

 

Thanks for your help Chuck

 

Tony

Edited April 17, 2020 by Tony Dee

[Chuck]

Start a build log and with everyone's help I am sure it will turn out just fine.

 

Chuck

[glbarlow]

I built the Pride of Baltimore as one of my first models. I recommend you start with it. It’s more basic and a better place to learn than Chuck’s a dvanced long boat. 
 

Chuck has a .pdf that describes how to line the hull but that’s among the easier, but essential, parts of the planking process. 
 

Here is your first lesson: There are about as many methods for planking as there are modelers. PVA or CA glue, nails, battens or neither. How to mark, taper, bend the plank. There are many variations and hard held methods and almost all work. 
 

So do your research here and decide on a method that suits you and stick with it. It’s not as scary as it sounds. We all planked our first ship. As Chuck says start a log and ask for help. 
 

Second lesson. Take your time, use PVA glue and get your frame square, fair, and true. It all starts there. 
 

I don’t know if it’s still available, Bob Hunt Lauck Shipyards I think, had a practicum on how to build the Pride of Baltimore. It will guide you step by step. 
 

Welcome to the club. 

Edited April 18, 2020 by glbarlow

[Tony Dee]

6 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

I built the Pride of Baltimore as one of my first models. I recommend you start with it. It’s more basic and a better place to learn The basic msthan Chuck’s long boat. 
 

Chuck has a .pdf that describes how to line the hull but that’s among the easier, but essential, parts of the planking process. 
 

Here is your first lesson: There are about as many methods for planking as there are modelers. PvA or CA glue, nails, battens or neither. How to mark, taper, bend the plank. There are many variations and hard held methods and almost all work. 
 

So do your research here and decide on a method that suits you and stick with it

 

It’s not as scary as it sounds. We all planked our first ship. As Chuck says start a log and ask for help. 
 

Second lesson. Take your time, use PVA glue and get your frame square, fair, and true. 
 

I don’t know if it’s still available, Bob Hunt Lauck Shipyards I think, had a practicum on how to build the Pride of Baltimore. It will guide you step by step. 
 

welcome to the club. 

Hi

Thanks for the insights. I ordered Bob hunts practicum so I will take your advice and start with POB.

 

 

[glbarlow]

My First start was the AVS with a Hunt practicum. I hope it works as well for you as it did for me. 

[Tony Dee]

Cool I will go step by step and follow Bob's practices.  I also purchased the photos cd as well so should be good. Honestly two things worry me. 1. Planking and 2. Rigging lol

 

Tony

[Gregory]

1 hour ago, Tony Dee said:

Honestly two things worry me. 1. Planking and 2. Rigging lol

That's kind of like saying the only thing worrying you about building a house is sawing and nailing..😄

[Tony Dee]

Point taken. Worry kind of a strong word. More like nervous excitement. I don’t want to screw it up.

 

😂

[druxey]

We all screw up at times! It's normal and how we learn. Figuring out how to correct the screw-up is the challenge. If you need help - ask!

Edited April 18, 2020 by druxey

[Dr PR]

No one's first kit is his best effort (or second, third ...). There is a learning curve, so don't worry too much. If something doesn't come out to your satisfaction you can always tear it out and start again. You first build is a learning experience so don't expect perfection. No matter what you do it should help prepare you for your next build. The important point is to take it easy, don't sweat the small stuff, and enjoy the build.

[wefalck]

I have seen people turning out their first model as scatch-build project perfectly and some people will only build perhaps a couple of model in their life's spare time. The key point is patience and being self-critical. It is not easy to start a piece from 'scratch' again (I am sometimes guilty of not doing it ...), if it doesn't turn out right. The only reason to finish a model is our own impatience - otherwise you can take all your time to get it right ...

 

In my opinion there are no 'beginner' models, there are only models for the more or less patient.

[allanyed]

1 hour ago, wefalck said:

In my opinion there are no 'beginner' models, there are only models for the more or less patient.

Well said!!!   Would love to discuss with you over a cup of espresso and a croissant or baguette once the pandemic is over and we can get back to Paris.  

Allan

[wefalck]

... well, for the moment we are under tight curfew until 11 May, but we expect that it will last longer, perhaps with some restrictions losened, as already in Germany. We have mentally braced ourselves that it will last into the summer. Perhaps this is just wishfull thinking, hoping that we can go on some sort of vacation by then. The fear is that we will see some rebound effect, once the curfew is loosened.

 

We don't even go to the bakery, because the French bread cannot be put into quarantaine for the week before we touch anything brought into the house. Luckily, German-type bread is available from 'industrial' bakeries that lasts for several weeks - that is, if it not eaten before

 

[glbarlow]

The best modelers are the ones that adapt to and correct their mistakes - I don't think there are many that do it right every time - I certainly don't.

 

There isn't much you can't recover from with modeling - except not having a squared frame to build on, hence my earlier advice.  The nice thing about a double planked ship is you can do almost anything to cover the frame with the first planking, sand, wood fill, do whatever to make that a smooth form and the second planking goes on fine - I think Hunt probably describes tapering and measuring so with that practicum you'll be fine. And if not, you can fix it. That's the fun of it all.

[mtaylor]

If you have issues with Hunt's documents, do have a look at the planking tutorials pinned that the top of this sub-forum.  

[Tony Dee]

Good morning all. I have a quick question. I am now at the stage where i will be lining the hull. When i measure to see how many planks should fit in a particular bulkhead to i measure from the top of the bulkhead to the bottom of the bulk head or do I go all the way to the keel for all bulkheads?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Tony

[wefalck]

If your ship has visible 'wales', you have mark out their lines first. Then you would measure the circumference of the bulkheads between the wales and the lower edge of the keel-rabbet. Likewise you measure the distance from the top of the wales to the lower edge of the capping rail and divide these spaces into equal segments.

[Tony Dee]

15 minutes ago, wefalck said:

If your ship has visible 'wales', you have mark out their lines first. Then you would measure the circumference of the bulkheads between the wales and the lower edge of the keel-rabbet. Likewise you measure the distance from the top of the wales to the lower edge of the capping rail and divide these spaces into equal segments.

Thanks. Yes I have the wales marked out already. What about the deadwood area? Would I measure from the bottom of the wall to the bottom of the bulkhead or the keel-rabbet?

[wefalck]

This depends on the type of ship you are building. Most had planked deadwood, some not. It depends on, where your rabbet is. If you have to plank the deadwood, you may have to work with stealers there.

 

Bulkheads have nothing to with actual ship construction, but are just a 'fake' for us modellers to provide the shape of the hull. Therefore, the edges of the bulkheads are not necessarily a good indication for where constructional details should be.

[Tony Dee]

Yeah mine has planked deadwood. 

 

Thanks for the help