Hanse Kogge by Catopower - FINISHED - Shipyard - 1/72 scale - CARD

[AnobiumPunctatum]

That's a nice idea. I am also building the cog "Wütender Hund". But if someone needs some picture of the Kamper Kogge, I made some pictures during a small trip in my holidays.

[catopower]

7 hours ago, Chuck Seiler said:

There ARE such things as single edged razor blades.

Hi Chuck, the thing is that what is sold in hardware stores is many times thicker than these shaving blades. They are true razor blades, and they slice card stock like butter.

 

I've seen some modelers take the double-edged razor blades and wrap tape around the extra edge, giving them a safe handle. If I keep making card models, I think I'm going to have to give that a try.

[Chuck Seiler]

Clare,

 

    Here is what I was talking about.  At first I was using a scalpel but it just wasn't cutting the mustard (so to speak).  I got  5 pack of these and they work great.  They ARE thicker than a normal double edged blade (which I use), but not overly so.

 

[catopower]

Hi Chuck,

 

I know what you're referring to. But, I think the difference is a more than you realize.

 

Standard single edge razor blades are usually #12 size, which is .012" thick, though you can get #9 blades, which are only .009" thick.

 

I mic'd the razor blades I have, and they come in at .0035" thick, or less than half the thickness of even the thinnest single edge razor blades.

 

By contrast, my scalpel blades measure .015" thick. So, it seems that any razor blade will cut better than a scalpel blade. But, I'm telling you, these paper modelers using the shaving blades know what they're doing.

 

 

[Chuck Seiler]

Substantially thicker?  maybe so.  I only look at my double edge once a week when I change them out...and I am usually half asleep.  I just know the single edge that I posted works great and I keep my fingers.  ...and some day I will get back to work on CardyDog.

[catopower]

Actually, you're right in that it doesn't make much of a noticeable difference in that these kits don't actually require you to do any significant cutting. So, one razor blade is probably just as good as another. The only thing that needs to get cut most of the time are the little tabs that hold a part to its sheet. I'll still use the scalpel for that because of the comfy handle!

 

It was only when I needed to cut some excess off of a thick, built-up card stock piece that I noticed that the thinner blades are really nice to use. The slice right through without applying much pressure.

 

[catopower]

After having been away from any serious ship modeling for more than a month due to a family illness, I'm back home now and have been missing ship modeling so much, that I'm trying to get back to my many projects to get some things finished up. I'm still having a bit of a difficult time getting my life back to "normal" and I don't know if it's stress about family matters, the time change, the elections, being overly tired, confused about how to reset and regroup after having been away for so long, Covid-19 separation, or what. But, it is affecting me a lot right now, so I'm having to force myself to get restarted on things, and I did make myself sit down and start the next step on the cog model.

 

First thing – I finally worked on finishing and mounting the rudder. First task was to make a couple blocks that will be needed. I went ahead and assembled all the blocks that came with the kit. If you're familiar with Chuck's larger-sized specialty blocks that he sells, these assemble in the same fashion. Sorry for the poor quality photo below. These blocks are very small and I had a hard time getting them into focus.

 

 

 

The rudder came out very nicely. The hardest part was gluing in the ultra tiny doughnut-shaped pieces that are used in the rudder hinges.

 

 

Shipyard gives you only exactly the number of parts you need, so the loss of a single piece will leave you short. And, unfortunately, one of the suckers jumped out of my grip and rolled into the abyss that is my carpeted floor. As you can see, there are three in the bag and I need four...

 

 

Since I don't plan on swinging the rudder around much, I figured I could fake things a bit and get away with having the one missing piece. You can't see it anyway, as it's hidden by the black rudder irons.

 

 

The rudder looks pretty good in place, so I think I'm okay with the shortage. Now, I'm just realizing how much more careful I need to be with the model, so as not to accidentally tear off the rudder. The kit comes with a mounting cradle. I don't know if I will want to use that, but I'm just realizing that it might be time to give some thought to how I'm going to mount this model.

 

My normal "go to" for lighter models like this, is to use brass posts that fit up into the keel a little ways. That will be okay for a final display, but I'm going to need a working stand of some kind. The clinker planking will be a bit of an issue here, since I don't want to damage it in the process.

 

But, in any case, here's my final pic, showing the tiller with the blocks mounted. I need to add some cleats next, but I haven't painted them yet, so I'm now prepping the whole laser-cut card sheet for painting, giving it all an initial coat of the light colored paint number 03 in the kit, before painting the wood color.

 

 

Clare

[Louie da fly]

Looking good, Clare.

 

Sorry to hear the carpet monster has struck again!

[druxey]

Looking very nice, Clare. The 'wood' looks very convincing.

[catopower]

Thank you Louie, Druxey,

 

One of these days, I will go on a quest to slay the carpet monster. But, I fear the action will only attract another one, or maybe something worse...

 

In the meantime, it's important to stay ahead of the carpet monster, so I continued work on my cog. I've finally gotten to parts that are too big for the carpet monster to swallow. This is the underside of the stern castle deck. most of this structure will be very hard to see on the completed model, but it's nice to know it's there. So far, so good.

 

 

There are two cabins added to this structure, one on either side. I didn't bother painting the interior sections in advance, as I wasn't sure if these would be visible.

 

I think I'll go ahead and paint the interiors, though I think that only one wall may possibly be partially visible if the cabin door is open. But, the thought of the cabin door being open on a ship, just plants the sound of a swinging and banging door in my head. Hope the noise goes away...

 

 

 

Finally, I'm making preparations for the top side of the deck, and assembled the solid rails (fences, walls?) that will surround much of the deck.

 

 

It's only now that I realize I have a bunch of nail painting to do again. I THINK I'm getting near the end of the nail painting.

 

Anyway, it's nice to be moving forward on this project again.

 

Actually, it's nice to be moving on ANY project again. Been absent from any real ship modeling (okay, some might not consider this to be real ship modeling) for more than a month, so it feels good to be back. I went through some ship modeling withdrawals there for a bit. Now, I may be overdosing a bit, but it's only because I NEED it(!). Plus, I know I'll have to slow the pace shortly, so I want to make as much progress on my projects as I can now. 

 

Clare

 

 

 

 

[mtaylor]

Sometimes, running with wide-open, full-speed throttle is best for the soul and the mind, Clare.  You're doing great.

[catopower]

Thanks Mark!

 

Well, speaking of running with wide-open, full-speed throttle, I was just up your way this weekend – TWICE. Ran wide-open on a drive from Pleasant Hill in the SF east bay, to Shelton, Washington on Saturday. Kind of an emergency as I had to go get my mom from my sister's house and bring her back down here, wide-open, full-speed throttle in the rain – 24 hours of driving in two days(!). But, at least it didn't snow (much). And, otherwise, I'd thought about you and about contacting you for a visit.

 

Well, before I went up there, I did make a little progress. Here's the top part of the stern castle. Lot of little bits I need to paint up and mount, yet, but it's something.

 

 

 

I have to leave for another couple days to take my mom down to a nursing facility in her home town, so I'll be out action for another day or two, unless I pack up a few things to take with me. But, I'm only be gone one night. Oh, wait, I had to cancel Internet service and last time cell reception for my iPhone (to make a personal hotspot) was so bad, I couldn't do anything on the Internet. So, maybe I will take something with me after all...

 

Clare

 

 

[Louie da fly]

Looking good, Clare. Keep up the good work (when you get a moment to spare . . .)

[Lapinas]

On 9/21/2020 at 6:19 AM, Chuck Seiler said:

Clare,

 

    Here is what I was talking about.  At first I was using a scalpel but it just wasn't cutting the mustard (so to speak).  I got  5 pack of these and they work great.  They ARE thicker than a normal double edged blade (which I use), but not overly so.

 

 

 I think you should try Olfa knifes..

 

 

Both AK-4 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Olfa-AK-4-Professional-scalpel-comfort/dp/B0027IVSXG) and AK-1 (https://www.amazon.com/OLFA-AK-1-Standard-Knife-Blades/dp/B0006SJAXE/) are extremely good. I refuse to use anything else If you order it please make sure to include spare blades in your order. My favorite blade: https://www.amazon.com/OLFA-9161-Art-Blade-25-Pack/dp/B0006O87T6?ref_=ast_sto_dp

 

Using Olfa and anything else is day & night difference to me.

[popeye the sailor]

your doing a great job with this model Clare.......looks like a really nice kit!  I've never done a card model before,  but this one,  being precut would take a lot of the apprehensiveness away.  the idea of painting is really interesting,  having only seen pre printed parts in others I've seen.  you've done a super job with this.......really does look like wood   

 

glad I took a browse around and looked into this fine model   

[catopower]

Hi Lapinas, thanks for the knife suggestion. Not sure how it's different from an XActo or a scalpel, and I do use both, but mostly the scalpel for the paper/card models. I'll have to check this out. Thanks for the links!

 

Hi Popeye, glad you enjoyed looking over the posts. I'm getting to the stage where the model is looking more like a finished cog model and I'm starting to picture how it will look, mounted and on display. I was starting to question how the "wood" painting was looking, but the results are pretty neat now, as I'm starting to add more details. I'm actually feeling pretty happy with it.

 

Plus, I made some comments earlier about difficulties I was having with the height of the bulwarks on my model, but that seems to be turning out not to be an issue after all at this stage.

 

Here are a few more progress picture showing more stern castle details.

 

 

 

 

Below are some parts assembled, ready to be painted and installed. That long rail piece is pretty flimsy. I think I'm going to have to paint it, then hit with some thin CA in order to stiffen it up. The CA will soak into this fragile piece and effectively make it into a piece of sturdy plastic. It is then supposed to be glued onto the tenons on the ends of those knees. Those may need a shot of CA too, as tenons like these tend to fray and you try to fit them.

 

 

 

I added several parts to the stern castle structure and then I set the whole thing into place to see how it will all fit. Looks like there really won't be any fit problems at all now, regarding the bulwarks height. There may be a tiny gap at the fore end, but I think I can easily plug the gaps and paint them, so they won't even be noticeable. Bear in mind that in the photos, the stern castle is just sitting on the deck, not glued into place, so there are obvious gaps in the photos which won't be there when the sterncastle is glued down.

 

 

 

Onward!

 

Clare

 

 

[druxey]

Very nice, Clare!

[Louie da fly]

I never cease to be amazed at the quality and realism achieveable using card. That really looks fantastic!

Edited November 21, 2020 by Louie da fly

[Chuck Seiler]

The other day I was watching the Russel Crow version of ROBIN HOOD.  In one scene, they are traveling from France to England and their conveyance of choice is a cog.  Very interesting.

[Louie da fly]

Hmmm, 1190's? Seems a little early for a cog, but what the hey, one or two centuries in a historical movie's not too bad. The Vikings (set in the 860's AD) had quite a nice nef, more appropriate to around 1290, in one of the early scenes.

[Chuck Seiler]

    I agree, a bit early, but I figured replicas of date-appropriate ships are probably a bit sparse... "besides, who will know the difference".  My point is that it was interesting to see a cog underway in a rough sea rather than on a placid body of water.  Also, living conditions of 'passengers'.

[mtaylor]

Looking good, Claire.   I"m glad you had a safe trip in both directions. Between the weather being iffy of late that virus, travel has become more than a pain.  

[Louie da fly]

Funny I never noticed that scene in the movie. I'll have to have another look at it.

[catopower]

Thanks for the comments everyone.

 

As I get further along and see fewer parts remaining on the laser-cut sheets, it's apparent that the end is still a little ways off, but it is in sight. There will be some rigging to do, but it's minimal on a ship with only one sail. 

Over the weekend, I discovered that once the tiller ropes are rigged, there is no way to fit the stern castle structure to the deck, except by removing the tiller from the end of the rudder. I didn't see anything in the instructions that tell you not the glue the tiller into place. But, it was such a snug fit, that I never glued it. So, I got lucky. Only later, do the instructions show the tiller, free of the rudder, allowing you to fit the stern castle into place. Once in place, the tiller can be re-attached to the rudder.

I've had to start dealing with rigging line. The stuff that's included in the kit is all white. So, it's needs to be dyed or stained. Fortunately, I just happen to have some very old bottles of Floquil rigging stain (remember that stuff?) that I wanted to try out again. These are very old bottles I've had in the garage for some 20+ years, but found that they mix up well, even after sitting for so long. It's the last of my supply, but this is a small rigging project, so I thought I'd try it out again.

I prepared some line for the tiller ropes and finishing rigging it. I also prepared some line to secure a few blocks into place on the model. Pretty soon, I'll be ready to fix the stern castle into place on the model.

 

 

 

Below is the last item that I needed to add to the stern castle before mounting it. This is the windlass used for raising the sail. One more thing I'll need to do is to add wrap a length of rigging line around it for the main halyard.

 

Clare

[mtaylor]

That last picture threw me for a few. I thought it was new work area until I saw I your thumb.  I think I need clear my brain.... again.

[Canute]

Guys, look up Hunterline  weathering mixes; that's what they call stains. They are up in Canada and super to deal with. Here's a link to one of the 2 stain pages: https://hunterline.com/t/weathering-mix 

They're alcohol based.

[Louie da fly]

Beautiful work, Clare. Just as well your tiller was such a snug fit! And it's a shame they don't warn you in advance - DO NOT INSTALL TILLER YET!!! - you might have had to unglue it with all the associated chances of breaking something.

[catopower]

Louie, the one way around the issue is that the tiller ropes are almost impossible to see back there. They are behind that windlass. So, cutting those ropes would have allowed the deck to be fit into place. Not a great solution, but probably better than destroying the tiller or rudder head.

 

Mark, well, it actually does kind of look like a workbench. Nicer than my actual work space!

 

Clare

[catopower]

So, more progress as I've permanently mounted the stern castle structure. This wasn't easy, as there are a number of contact points, and there is some flex in the structure. I had to reach underneath with long, narrow piece of wood to put pressure on the windlass assembly in order to get it to fit into place. I think Shipyard should have just made the vertical supports extra long with slots in the deck to fit into. That would allowed for some variance in the way the whole stern castle structure fits into place. As it was, I had to apply a bit of extra pressure to hold everything down into place until the glue set. A little bit of paint afterwards hides any issues pretty well.

 

First I had to make and mount the door, as you can see below. But, once those were in place, it was time to put it all together.

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, now the stern castle is in place and I'm now working on these structures that hold the deadeyes. On later ships, the deadeyes were outboard of the hull and mounted on chain wales, or channels. On the cog, they are mounted inboard of the hull and mounted on inboard frameworks – kind of "ingrown" channels.

 

 

 

Below, you can see these structures temporarily mounted in place. I still have to strop and attach the deadeyes before these are permanently mounted. But, it gives you an idea of how it will all look in the end. Though, I suppose the cover art does that just as well. I guess I just wanted to see my model looking more complete!

 

 

In the last photos, the cog model is next to another 1/72-scale model, but a wooden kit of a Japanese coastal transport from a Japanese manufacturer called Woody Joe. That model is very close to completion as well. I basically just need to add the sail and wrap up the rigging. While it's a wooden kit, it's probably a good subject for a card version.

 

 

Anyway, the Japanese ship is specifically a type of coastal transport called a Kitamaebune (key-tah-mah-eh-boo-nay). This is specifically one from the early 19th century. But, similar ships have been built since the early 1600s.

 

If you're interested, I have another build log for it here: 

 

 

 

Clare

[catopower]

Finally got around to mounting the deadeyes to those hull structures that I have no name for. 

 

I have to admit that I've been dragging my feet on this step, as "rigging" has kind of fallen out of favor with me. Not good for a modeler of sailing ship! Probably more of a phase. I tend to get into whatever type of work I happen to be doing and don't take well to shifting gears these days. And, I guess I particularly like hull construction, deck planking, and probably research most of all.

 

But, it was time to get back to the Cog after a general break from most everything fun these past couple months.

 

 

So, deadeyes now in place...

 

 

 

As I was working with these, I realized there were notches at the top of these structures (see arrow in the photo below)... was something missing? I looked at the instructions, which didn't show me to add stringers here, like the others below, but in a latter photo in the instructions, the pieces magically appeared!

 

 

I managed to add those pieces, and of course the little deck and the supports you see above.

 

Then, looking forward, I noticed how these assemblies were fit into place, and it suddenly became apparently, that I had no idea if these little decks would fit into place correctly. Looking closely at the instruction photos, it looked like I might have them wrong. I ended cutting these little decks off, deciding it was much smarter to mount them AFTER the assemblies were fixed in place.

 

 

NOW, it's safe to add those decks so that they fit right up against that deck cabin bulkhead.

 

 

 

Well, anyway, it's progress!