mtaylor Posted March 27, 2013 #121 Posted March 27, 2013 Nice work on the rigging. I thought the Wasa had nightmare rigging but the SOS rigging is beyond that. Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)
edmay Posted March 28, 2013 #122 Posted March 28, 2013 Hi Vince,foot ropes or no foot ropes,a work of art it is,having a good cup of tea and reading and learning from your blog,also the tools etc that you use makes a pleasant evening, I thank you sir for your time and effort,have a nice weekend,Edwin
wthilgen Posted March 28, 2013 #123 Posted March 28, 2013 Did ya use paint or gold leaf? Shipyard sid 1 Current Build: La Nina, Latina - Wood / 1:65 On The Shelf: San Francisco II, Latina - Wood 1/90, U.S.S. Constitution, Revell - Plastic / 1:96 (Remake), H.M.S. Bounty, Latina - Wood / 1:48, H.M.S. /Mayflower, Latina - Wood / 1:64, La Pinta, Latina, Latina - Wood / 1:65, La Santa Maria, Latina - Wood / 1:65, Completed: San Francisco / Cross Section, Latina - Wood / 1:50, Coastal Submarine, Revell - Plastic / 1:144, Cutty Sark Wall Plaque, Revell - Plastic / 1:50, H.M.S. Victory, Revell - Plastic / 1:146, H.M.S. Bounty, Constructo - Wood / 1:50, Oseberg, Billings Boats - Wood / 1:25, Clipper Ship (Sea Witch), Unknown - Wood / 1:46, U.S.S. Constitution, Revell - Plastic / 1:96, Man Of War, Scientific - Wood / 1:50, Robert E. Lee, Scientific - Wood / 1:45, PT-109, Revell - Plastic / 1:72, U.S.S. Enterprise, Revell - Plastic / 1:720, R.M.S. Titanic, Revell - Plastic / 1:720, Numerous other wooded tall ships and boats from companies named: Ideal, Dumas, Pyro.
pirozzi Posted March 28, 2013 Author #124 Posted March 28, 2013 Neither. They were bright brass plated. I just polished them and sealed them with clear lacquer to keep them shiny.
WackoWolf Posted March 28, 2013 #125 Posted March 28, 2013 Excellent work with the rigging. Just Beautiful. Do you have any hair left LOL. Keep the pictures coming. Wacko Joe Go MSW :)
pirozzi Posted March 28, 2013 Author #126 Posted March 28, 2013 It's just a might grayer. Excellent work with the rigging. Just Beautiful. Do you have any hair left LOL. Keep the pictures coming.
pirozzi Posted March 28, 2013 Author #127 Posted March 28, 2013 I decided to redo the furl on the Sprit Topsail. It was kind of lopsided. I think this is better. Vince P. JesseLee and wade13 2
pirozzi Posted March 28, 2013 Author #128 Posted March 28, 2013 I added a feature to the rigging that is left out in the kit. Ships of the period had knights with lifts and halliards for hoisting the lower yards on the masts. This is what they look like rigged. The lift is heavy rope that is attached to a triple sister block and passes through the cheeks below the mast top trees and is lashed to the yard. The halliard is reeved back and forth through the sister block and knight and is secured to a cleat on the knight. Vince P. JesseLee 1
modelshipwright Posted March 29, 2013 #129 Posted March 29, 2013 Nice work on your Sovereign Vince. It is always fun to add to the kit the way you did with the rigging. Regards Bill Mediocrity will never do. You are capable of something better.” ― Gordon B. Hinckley Current build: Sovereign of the Seas 1637 My Book: Carving Ornamentation for Ship Models Website: Http://carvingbook.weebly.com/
pirozzi Posted March 31, 2013 Author #130 Posted March 31, 2013 The amount of rigging for this ship with the realistic method and the sails is quite complex. Building the masts off ship and completely installing the yards, sails and starting the running rigging before setting the mast on the ship is critical. Once the foremast is set on the ship, all of the running rigging must be completely finished before rigging the shrouds. As far as I see it, doing it any other way will make it very difficult to get to the pinrails, cleats, and other belay points. This is different from the way I did it with other ship builds, but they did not have the complexity and very tight quarters in working on the rigging. This will hold true for the other masts as well. If you build the kit as the plans dictate, with the abbreviated rigging, there would be no issue, but completing it as I am doing with the more detailed rigging, and adding the sails, makes it a whole different ball game. I am almost done with the entire bowsprit and foremast. I will post photos to show what I mean. Vince P. DenPink 1
pirozzi Posted April 1, 2013 Author #131 Posted April 1, 2013 This is drawing for the Bowsprit block and lashing arrangement. Vince P. alan baker 1
pirozzi Posted April 2, 2013 Author #132 Posted April 2, 2013 These are crowsfeet. They were used to keep the bottom of the topsails from fouling on the mast tops. The kit does not address these but the SOS had them. I added them as per rigging diagrams of ships of the period. Vince P. JesseLee 1
Kevin Posted April 5, 2013 #133 Posted April 5, 2013 Hi Vince Sorry, i have only just caught up with yr build, what a change since we last talked, she looks fantastic, even the armadillo in the background all the best kevin wade13 1 Its all part of Kev's journey, bit like going to the dark side, but with the lights on All the best Kevin SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS. KEEP IT REAL! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ On the build table HMS Indefatigable 1794 by Kevin - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Feb 2023 Belle Poule 1834 by Kevin - OcCre - 1/90 - French frigate - started June 2024 - - On hold MHS Britannic by Kevin SD 14 - Marcle Models - 1/70 - March 2022 - Bluebell - Flower Class - Revel - 1/72 U552 German U Boat - Trumpeter - 1/48 Amerigo Vespucci 1/84 - Panart- HMS Enterprise -CAF - 1/48 Finished Hercules by Kevin - OcCre - 1/50 - Tugboat - Finished - May 2024 Nectan-Mountfleet-models-steam-trawler-1/32 - Completed June 2020 HMS Victory - Caldercraft/Jotika - 1/72 - Finished Dorade renamed Dora by Kevin - Amati - 1/20 - Completed March 2021 Stage Coach 1848 - Artesania Latina - 1/10 -Finished Lady Eleanor by Kevin - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1/64 - Fifie fishing boat
md1400cs Posted April 6, 2013 #135 Posted April 6, 2013 Vince, With each update your work becomes even more spectacular. Such a beauty. Rigging is an up-and-coming challenge for me. Looking at and reading your notes is a real learning experience. Thanks for sharing.... Michael D Michael Current build : Sovereign of the Seas 1/78 Sergal Under the table: Golden Hind - C Mamoli Oseberg - Billings 720 - Drakkar - Amati Completed: Santa Maria-Mantua -- Vasa-Corel - Santisima Trinidad cross section OcCre 1/90th Gallery : Santa Maria - Vasa -
pirozzi Posted April 6, 2013 Author #136 Posted April 6, 2013 This is just a general thank you to all of the modellers that have posted nice compliments on my log. Vince P.
edmay Posted April 7, 2013 #137 Posted April 7, 2013 well Vince,thank you for the teaching you gave me,learning so much from so far,I"m truly gratefull.How can you top the sos,have you decided on your build.Ed(inspiring)
DSiemens Posted April 9, 2013 #138 Posted April 9, 2013 Incredible work! I love the sovereign it's such a beautiful ship but it looks far to much for me at this point. You make it look easy. I love the little details you added as well. Definitely adds to the ship. Daniel We're ship in bottle builders, it's an occupational hazard. www.siemensbottlingco.blogspot.com http://www.bottledshipbuilder.com Current Builds: Bermuda Sloop Wood Krafters Pirate Ship Completed: 20 Gun Frigate Olympic 470 Bermuda Sloop Super Mini Queen Anne's Revenge German Cutter Mercury Santa Maria
pirozzi Posted April 15, 2013 Author #139 Posted April 15, 2013 I fimished all of the running rigging from the bowsprit to the foremast and the foremast to the deck. The starboard side has the shrouds of the foremast rattled as well. I added all of the little rope coils to the belay points on the deck and the mast tops. I am having nightmares about making clove hitches and still have to do a few hundred in the port side. Vince P. cristikc and JesseLee 2
pirozzi Posted April 16, 2013 Author #140 Posted April 16, 2013 I just found another glitch in the kit design. The main mast at its base is 12mm. When it is stepped into the ship, there is a cutout in the keel that that the bottom of the mast sits into. Well I don't know how I missed this but when I placed the mast temporarily before planking the hull, to make sure it would sit straight up vertically and not tilt to either side, everything looked good. Turns out that I must not have pushed the mast all of the way down to bottom in this slot. I am now starting construction on the main mast and again placed it in the hole to make sure it was true but I could not get it down far enough without tilting it slightly to port. I figured that the decks were slightly off, so I started filing the hole to get the mast straight. As it turns out, it had nothing to do with the alignment of the decks. They were right on. The damn slot in the keel is only 9.5mm and the mast is 12.0mm. So, I had to shave off both sides of the mast base about 10.0mm up so it measures 9.5mm across. Now the mast fits correctly. If you are going to build this kit, fix the slot by making it 12.0mm before constructing the hull. Vince P. gicuta13 1
realworkingsailor Posted April 16, 2013 #141 Posted April 16, 2013 Wow!... That is quite litterally a rat's nest of lines ... how you ever managed to keep that straight is beyond me... It looks impressive... and that's only the bowsprit?! Best of luck with the rest of the rig. She looks amazing Andy Quando Omni Flunkus, Moritati Current Build: USF Confederacy
pirozzi Posted April 19, 2013 Author #142 Posted April 19, 2013 I bought this little work table made by Dremel to hold the ship on the table while allowing it to be moved around and rotated for access to the rigging and such. The keel clamps inside the gap in the table top and I made some custom chocks to cradle the hull. It holds the ship quite securely. I saw this little table on Anja's build log and asked where she got it. She gave me some info. It seems that Dremel no longer makes this, but the TGM Shop from Amazon still sells them. It came all the way from Germany. This will make it much easier to get all around the ship for the rigging. Vince P. Anja, WackoWolf, JesseLee and 2 others 5
Anja Posted April 22, 2013 #143 Posted April 22, 2013 Hello Vince, It's great you finally got your Dremel workbench. And the added custom chocks to support the ships are a neat idea. Have to think about that one myself. Take care, Anja Those we loved but lost are no longer where they were, but are always where we are. In the gallery: Albatros 1840 - Constructo
pirozzi Posted April 30, 2013 Author #144 Posted April 30, 2013 (edited) Here is the Union Jack raised on the bowsprit pole. The flag provided in the kit is not authentic in that the Union Jack was not correct for the time period. The one provided was a later version flown long after the SOS was sailing. I am not that efficient in English history to know that, but my friend Denis is from the UK and picked up on it right away. He was nice enough to have some correct flags made and he shipped me some for my ship. The first photo shows the incorrect flag and the second the correct one. Vince P. Edited April 30, 2013 by Vince P. mtaylor, JesseLee, cristikc and 1 other 4
pirozzi Posted May 9, 2013 Author #145 Posted May 9, 2013 (edited) Half cleats. I am constructing the main mast and two of the fore stays from the mizzen mast are lashed to the main mast. While the kit does not address these, cleats were needed to keep the stays from riding up under tension. Vince P. Edited May 9, 2013 by Vince P. JesseLee and mtaylor 2
pirozzi Posted May 20, 2013 Author #146 Posted May 20, 2013 Constructing the mainmast. Since this is the tallest mast, you can get an idea how big this ship will be. Like the foremast, I will build the entire mast including the yards and sails and all corresponding rigging before setting it on the ship. Next up is installing the needed blocks to the trees. Vince P. mtaylor, Anja and JesseLee 3
pirozzi Posted May 25, 2013 Author #147 Posted May 25, 2013 Installing the blocks for the lifts and jeers on the mainmast tops. Also the lift and sister block for hoisting and lowering the lower yard, and the forward halves of the mizen stays. Vince P. mtaylor and JesseLee 2
pirozzi Posted May 27, 2013 Author #148 Posted May 27, 2013 For those of you that might build this kit from Mantua, here is some info on errors in the plans: After I set the completed foremast on the ship, I started looking into the mainmast. The plans call for cutting the lower section to 360mm. I set this piece down into the ship temporarilly and something did not look right. According to other completed models and some drawings of the actual SOS, the lower crowsnest of the mainmast should be slightly higher that the same on the foremast. The top rail of the crowsnest on the foremast is about even with the tree on the mainmast. With the mainmast section cut to 360mm as detailed in the plans, the crowsnest is considerably lower than the foremast. In order for the mainmast crowsnest to sit at the correct level, it was necessary to increase the lower section to 407mm from 360mm. Along with this, it is necessary to adjust the mizenmast to correspond to the change in height of the mainmast. The plans call for the lower section of the mizenmast to be 320mm. Increase this to 385mm. Then all of the mast tops are in correct alignment. Vince P. edmay 1
NMBROOK Posted May 27, 2013 #149 Posted May 27, 2013 Hi Vince Lovely work,and I must say your rigging is very impressive.I think it may be a year or so before I get to that stage. Kind Regards Nigel Currently working on Royal Caroline
pirozzi Posted May 27, 2013 Author #150 Posted May 27, 2013 Since I am completely assembling the masts off ship, I wrap the lower shrouds to be rigged later on the ship. The shrouds are wrapped in pairs. One piece of rope goes around the mast top from fore to aft to make a pair. Usually the pairs are wrapped starting on the starboard side and then the port side and back to starboard and so on. This ship has 10 shrouds on each side which is 5 pairs to a side. Later when rigging them to the deadeyes, they must be rigged in the correct order starting from the starboard side, pair 1, then to port, pair 1, and back to starboard pair 2, and so on. Also, the shroud in each pair that wraps from the fore side of the mast must be rigged first and then the other in the pair. This is necessary so the shrouds do not bunch up and cross each other at the mast top. You will really see the mess when rattling towards the upper end of the shrouds, if it is not done this way. I simply number the pairs on each side as they are wrapped, and make the forward one of each pair a little longer. Later when rigging them just take them in numerical order and the longer of each pair first. Vince JesseLee 1
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