Mary Day by jdbondy - 1:64 scale (3/16" to 1 foot) - Schooner

[jdbondy]

Thanks for the likes, everyone. Jerome, yes Barry and Jen still own and run the Mary Day. I am in regular contact with them and I hope to see them next month.

[jdbondy]

Most of us model buidlers know that the covering boards are the pieces of timber that cover the hull-deck joint structure. Chances are you know that they are very complicated things to build. This step of the build simply confirmed that.

Covering boards usually are solid pieces of wood that are penetrated by holes that accommodate the stanchions that must travel through them. For me to produce them like that would have simply been impossible. These will be complicated enough to build as is. Essentially, I will fabricate the inboard side of the covering boards with “teeth” that project between the stanchions, then the outboard edge will be added in a separate step. The seam between the two pieces should be effectively hidden in the alcove formed by the stanchions and the bulwarks planking.

Here I have covered the deck structure adjacent to the stanchions with tape because I was wishing to protect my paint job of the deck structure that would remain visible in an unplanked area of deck. The protection was needed because I knew I would need to fair down the ledges to the level of the sheer in order for the covering boards to fit, and I didn’t want to harm the paint job.

 

In order to start the process, I needed to obtain the shape of the sheer from the plans. These were transferred using tracing paper to 3/64” stock. These shapes were then cut out excessively wide.

 

This results in six overly-wide and overly-long pieces, with generous areas of overlap.

 

Using double-sided tape, an individual piece was tacked down to the level of the deck structure. The forward and aft edges of each stanchion were marked, keeping track of station locations.

 

Now the really slow part began. Under the microscope, I began cutting out notches to make the “teeth” that will extend between each stanchion. Again, each covering board piece was made so that its inboard edge was continuous. The outboard edge of the covering board will be added as a separate piece later on in the build.

 

This piece shows many of the notches at full width, while others are still being widened. The width of each stanchion was relatively standard, but the gaps between the stanchions varied just enough to require extensive trial and error fittings.

But wait, that’s not all. Once all of the notches are wide enough, now they each need to be made deep enough. And none were of exactly of the same depth, due to individual differences in the shapes and angles of the stanchions. This again required many trial and error fittings with the goal of leaving minimal gap between the covering board’s notch and the inboard surface of each stanchion.

 

In the real ship, there is only about a 2 inch gap between the inboard surface of the stanchions and the margin plank of the deck. This is 1/32” in model scale. You can see the anticipated final inner edge of the covering board marked with a continuous pencil line here.

 

Perhaps it is a little more clear in this image. At this point there is a lot of excess wood on the inboard edge of the covering board. Removal of this excess will have to wait until later, as trimming it all off at this time would leave a piece of wood that is impossibly fragile.

 

The process of cutting the notches was accelerated when I realized I could use my table saw and miter to at least start the notches in a more efficient manner.

 

After having cut the notches to proper spacing, width, and depth, it was time to prep and paint the stanchions. Paint would add just enough thickness to each surface of the stanchions to require further tuning of the notches.

 

For primer, I used some old Badger Model-Flex gray, which had thickened considerably. It was diluted with water to a usable thickness, but it still maintained enough body to serve as an effective filler.

Overall this achieved a pretty smooth surface, but some defects were hard to fill completely, even after using primer and model filler.

I can’t remember how long it took to make all of these very bespoke pieces, but keep in mind that my last proper post was back in July…

There is lots of overlap, way more than I really needed, which also slowed the process.

The stanchions and the inboard surfaces of the bulwarks planking are a burgundy color. I slowly added drops of blue Tamiya paint into a small jar of Tamiya red to achieve the desired shade of burgundy. The one small jar may in the end not be enough, because I will also use it to paint the inboard surfaces of the bulwarks planking. It took 3-4 coats to get a good smooth surface.

And as already mentioned, the notches had to be tuned again after painting the stanchions was finished.

So despite my efforts to protect them, I had to scrape and sand away portions of the previously painted deck structure. In fact, re-shaping of the deck beams and ledges was necessary in order to get the covering boards to sit flush with the sheer.

This ledge shows considerable downsloping toward the sheerline to accommodate the shape of the covering board.

So there will need to be repainting of the deck structure that will remain visible, after all.

The deck beams and ledges also required re-fairing of their curve once I had removed enough material to accommodate the covering board.

The covering boards were painted with a medium gray. Excess paint that ended up in the notches had to be sanded away after this was done.

At this point, I used the X-acto blade to begin removing some of the excess wood from the inboard edge of the covering boards. This helped make it easier to tune the pieces to sit against their underlying deck beams and ledges. It was also necessary to shape the undersurface of the covering boards to accommodate the camber of the deck structure. I carefully sanded the undersurface to change the cross section from rectangular to an angular undersurface.

In addition to trimming away wood from the inboard edge, I also carved down the thickness of the remaining excess wood in a way that left an edge that corresponded to the final inboard edge of the covering board. This involved scoring the surface of the piece with the X-Acto, then coming along with a fine chisel and planing away the surface of the piece along the inboard edge. The edge is visible as the bright line in this photo. This will make it much easier to identify the final edge when the last bits of excess are trimmed away, and to create a smooth and fair surface against which the margin plank will rest.

 

Next problem: now that I have this piece that sits fair when I press it down against the deck beams and ledges, how do I do the glue-up in a way that makes sure that I am not left with the kinds of gaps I can see in this picture? I don’t have that many fingers.

I used a 1/16” thick piece of scrap wood to create a curved piece that roughly followed the curve of the rail, then glued it to the tops of the stanchions.

This is a sacrificial piece that will hopefully come off easily when I am done with the next step.

 

Some of the stanchions were a tiny bit shorter than their neighbors. These differences will be hidden by the rail and its supports that will be added later.

 

Using scrap wood, wedges of wood thin enough to fit between the stanchions were created.

 

In preparation for glue-up, the areas of the undersurface of the covering board that will need to be wetted with glue were marked with pencil.

Then the mating surfaces of the deck structure were wetted as well. I put small amounts of glue into the notches of the covering board as well. The board was put in place, and the wedges were used to press them to the surface of the deck structure. Care was taken to make sure that the covering board was pressed in fully against the deck, as well as against the bases of the stanchions, without leaving any gaps.

After suitable drying time, the wedges were removed and the sacrificial piece was easily separated from the tops of the stanchions with the X-Acto.

I never would have been able to hand-paint such a clean appearance if I had simply glued up unpainted pieces of wood.

Now I only have to do this five more times, with the remaining covering board pieces! The joints between the pieces in real life would have had an angled appearance resembling a scarf joint, but I won’t be able to duplicate that here.

Once all the covering boards are installed, the next 2 jobs that would make sense are the beginning of the deck planking and also the bulwarks planking. I don’t know yet which I will do next, because it will probably take me awhile to get the rest of the covering boards in place.

[Rick310]

Beautiful work!!

Rick

[Tony Hunt]

Great problem-solving exercise, and a very impressive result!

[KeithAug]

I have to agree - beautiful work.

[MEDDO]

That is some great progress there.

[druxey]

Painstakingly accurate work and construction sequencing, JD. No wonder it was so long since we last saw a post from you! Well done, indeed.

[jdbondy]

Thanks everyone! All six covering board pieces have now been installed and now I am trimming away the excess wood from each piece in anticipation of installing the margin plank for the decking. I hope to post a brief update soon. And I hope that after having finished this task, things will accelerate appreciably.

[davec]

Impressive work on the covering boards.  I'm looking forward to seeing the progress pictures.

 

Dave

[Retired guy]

Great way to make a perfect paint job 👍

 

Regards

Richard

[jdbondy]

Margin planking has been installed on the port side!

 

This is very exciting because once I am finished with the margin planks on the starboard side, full deck planking can proceed rapidly (with a deck framing reveal on the port side).

 

As you can see, some repainting of the deck framing that will be revealed is in order.

[davec]

That was a ton of little square notches - looks great!

[FriedClams]

Tedious and exacting work - perfectly done, JD!

 

Gary

[Rick310]

Really beautiful!!  WOW !!

Rick

[jdbondy]

Just as a reminder of what we are ultimately headed for on this project, here is a photo of the Mary Day at anchor from last summer.

 

Now working on painting the deck support structure, which will be followed by deck planking. And I need to start planning on painting the hull itself!

 

[Rick310]

Beautiful!!

Rick

[KeithAug]

She looks quite idilic - unfortunately not much wind. A gin and tonic and tall story sort of day!

[jdbondy]

There hasn't been any time for working on the model this summer, as I have been working a lot so that others can have summer vacation time. But once summer is over, I am joining some friends in September for a week-long coastal cruise on the Mary Day! I am billing the trip as "research". Of course, I am submitting the bills to me, so not much benefit there. But the trip should result in lots of good documentation on things like the running rigging in actual use, as well as the yawl boat and its associated stern davits.

[KeithAug]

4 hours ago, jdbondy said:

I am joining some friends in September for a week-long coastal cruise on the Mary Day!

That sounds wonderful JD. Remember you can never take too many pictures. 

[MEDDO]

Have fun! That will be a great opportunity as many of us will never walk the decks of the ships we work on.

[jdbondy]

I had the pleasure of spending this past week on board the Mary Day with friends! There were a total of 19 passengers. I quickly became known as the guy who was measuring every single detail.

 

Hopefully this will inspire renewed and rapid work on my model!

 

[Keith Black]

 Great opportunity, JD. Hopefully it wasn't all measuring and that you had time to relax and daydream. 

[jdbondy]

It has been entirely too long since the last post. Life just seems to get in the way of progress on the model.

 

The Mary Day’s deck is planked in teak, with fore and aft planks and one margin plank. To match the teak color, I used Swiss pear from my collection of wood obtained from Gilmer Wood in the Pacific NW. I parted off sheets from a block, then ran them through the Byrnes thickness sander to reach a consistent thickness of 3/64” (0.047”) that would determine the width of each plank. That way I wouldn’t end up with wandering plank lines (at least I am hoping). Then I used the table saw to part off individual deck planks that were initially too thick (about 0.05-0.06”), but then sanded down to the necessary thickness of 0.047”, again using the Byrnes sander. This surface would be the showing surface of the deck, which would ultimately be scraped smooth anyway.

 

The first task was to install margin planking all the way around the inboard edges of the covering boards. It’s a very satisfying appearance seeing the Swiss pear wood adjacent to the gray covering board, and it exactly duplicates the appearance in real life.

 

In order to simulate deck caulking, each plank edge was rubbed with a pencil, which burnished the upper corners of the plank, narrowing it very slightly at deck level. The graphite of the pencil effectively simulates the dark deck caulking.

 

This process required some trial and error. Initially I was only rubbing one edge of a deck plank with the pencil, but I wasn’t happy with how the deck seams looked. So in this picture I am cutting out some of the planking that then got redone in the manner described above.

 

I started the process of deck planking in the area of the aft deck. In this area, there is a king plank that is 1.5 times the width of the adjacent planks. It is 4.5” wide, while the rest of the planks are 3” in width.

 

Determining the centerline is a bit tricky and involved running a string (fly tying line) from the center of the stem in the bow through to the area of the transom. Pin pricks were then used to mark the centerline, then subsequent prick marks to determine preset distances from the centerline.

 

A helpful feature about planking the stern deck is that the aft ends of the planks could terminate arbitrarily, as visible above, because their ends will be covered by the lazarette. And the forward edges will be covered by the edge of the cabintop.

 

Carrying the planking forward from the aft deck is tricky, because ideally the planking will follow a symmetric pattern as the planks articulate with the deckhouse and with the margin plank. One forgiving feature of my model is that there will be an unplanked area of deck on the port side at midships, in the same approximate area as the frame reveal in the hull. So in that area, there won’t be any issues of symmetry to worry about.

 

Next, planking was laid out in the bow, again being careful about determining the centerline. In the bow, there is no king plank as there is on the aft deck. The planking as shown here covers openings for the foc’sle berth and the mast partners. Those areas will be cut away when the time comes.

 

From here, I will finish planking the forward deck, then work the planking aft to gradually merge up with the planking that has already been laid in the stern. I am hoping that everything will meet up straight and true!

 

You can see that I have planking laid out on the work surface that is of diminishing length, as the next pieces to go into the bow.

 

Thanks to everyone I met while cruising on the Mary Day 2 weeks ago for inspiring me to get back to work and perhaps to posting a little more frequently! I hope some of you navigate your way to this build log and find it interesting.

 

[Jim Lad]

Very nice! That deck timber is a beautiful colour.

 

John

[druxey]

Nice progress, JD. Good to see you back at it!

 

Cheers,

D

[KeithAug]

I like the deck planking colour. I am jealous of your timber stock.

[jdbondy]

As I suggested in my last post, maybe I need to make more frequent posts, even if there is a little less content in each one.

The planking of the port side after deck is completed; it ends abruptly at the frame reveal at the deck level.

Now the port side foredeck planking is complete, again ending in the end of the deck framing reveal.

This is the starboard side, where the planking forward and aft are coming together and the accuracy of the linearity of the planking will be determined. Of course, where the two came together, there was about ½ plank width difference in the location of the planks.

As it turns out, there is appreciable angle difference between the layout of the forward and aft planks, which is difficult to appreciate on a fore-and-aft photo. This photo was even taken with maximum depth of field, and it is difficult to get all the planking in focus.

 

So, the next step was to compensate for the step-off between the fore and aft planking, as well as for the angle difference between them. Fortunately, when viewed from abeam, I think it is difficult to tell that anything is off.

Here is how things look after merging the fore planking with the aft planking. There is one plank that demonstrates a somewhat hourglass shape, wider at either end and narrower in the center. But overall things seem to be pretty well concealed.

In addition, some very subtle bending of planking was necessary due to the change in angulation. But again, hard to find if you don’t know it’s there.

So now the planking is almost finished.

The final plank had to be very specifically tapered, of course.

The final plank in place.

Next task: the margin plank is flush with the covering board, but where the remainder of the deck planking meets the margin plank, there is a small amount of step-off.

 

Directing the lighting in the proper direction really accentuates the step-off.

Under the microscope, I used various shapes of X-Acto blades to bring the edge of the deck planking flush with the margin plank. This also helped to eliminate areas of glue squeeze-out where the fore-and-aft planking met the margin plank.

Much better.

Next issue is deck camber. Making corrections at the hull-deck joint led to changes in the shapes of the deck beams, with overly steep deck camber at the edge of the deck. The index card shown above has proper deck camber cut along its edge. The card sat appropriately against the planking where it meets the cabintop, but there was as much as 1/32” dropoff where the planking meets the margin plank.

Additional cards with deck camber were set up along this area of the deck.

These two cards show triangles of light where the bottom edge of the card meets the deck planking edge.

A close-up shows how much of a gap there is.

This great palm plane from Lee Valley has been waiting for jobs for which it is well-suited. Turns out it works very well for working down the surface of the deck planking to the appropriate camber. That is what I am working on now. After that, attention will turn to finishing of the deck as well as the hull surface. Plus the bulwarks planking needs to be installed.

 

[jdbondy]

 

 

 

Oh, I also created apertures in the foredeck for the foremast and the foc's'le hatch.

[druxey]

Cutting such openings after planking is living dangerously! You may find that planking around the opening is less time consuming and difficult. 

 

Looking good, JD. The row of toptimbers for the bulwarks is particularly neat and pleasing.

[shipmodel]

Beautiful woodworking JD, and what a sweet little plane.  I'm a bit jealous of both.

 

Dan