Cutty Sark by Bruma - Revell - 1:96 - PLASTIC

[Bruma]

Thank you all for the kind comments and suggestions, I really appreciate all of them!

 

@Snug Harbor Johnny:

Thank you for the idea! It will surely come handy for my mizzen cro’jack: it will be furled. 

Talking about furled sails, if you or anybody else has some picture of real clipper-like sails furled, it will be really helpful. I’m struggling to find good pictures to use as reference. 

That being said, you mention:

 

 

On 1/6/2022 at 11:32 PM, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

.......

  There are several modeling advantages to having furled sails.  First, the jackstays are covered over - so one does not have to make them at all - which is rather fussy in 1:96 scale.  

.......

 

 

Well, I quite like this detail! Here it is my attempt to replicate the jackstay on the main course yard:

 

So that I can also answer to a question posed by Rwiederrich:

 

On 4/23/2021 at 2:20 PM, rwiederrich said:

 

One last question:  Did you add the jackstays to the yards then lash the sails to them....in your search for the *Finer* details?  (And what about those gin blocks?)

 

 

Yes indeed! And I hope the wires are visible in the previous picture.

I really like all those little details, they reveal the incredibly complex nature of those sailing pieces of art.

 

9 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

Like you Bruma, I wanted to hyper detail my Revell Kit.  I used wood deadeyes and detailed her out as much as possible.  I, however had a dioramic point...a true historical incident in CS life.  The replacement of her jury rigged rudder.  She was on the ways for repair, so her sails would have been removed and stowed for the duration of the repair.

 

I appreciate your attention to detail, in making this fine model even that more impressive.

 

Here is a pic of my award winning model. for your edification.

 

Rob

 

 

Thank you for posting your masterpiece. I already know your creature, they were part of the inspiration that brought me to the Cutty Sark, and I really like the diorama idea! 

 

Update time:

Main mast stepped and the standing rigging (of the main mast) almost completed! 

 

Since the process is almost the same as the fore mast, I will just put some pictures! 

Just a side note: royal and skysail back stays are still missing, as are some fairleads. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Before stepping the mast, I prepared the tackles for the main course yard lift. They are in a quite tricky and crowded location. This area will be a lot more crowded, but all the other tackles have to be fitted once the yards are in place. 

I hope the job is visible from this pictures:

 

 

Talking about crowded areas, the foot of the main mast is one of them and to make things even worse, the mainstay and the main topmast stay needs to find her way in this intricate forest…

I already tied them on the port side, but the line needs to go up to the main mast and come back to the fore mast, starboard side, tied to the eye bolts on deck. 

In doing so, they have to pass between the mast and the tackles (tree for each side, one for the lift, another one for the lower topsail sheet and the last one for topgallant sheet). 

Well, long story short, it was not so relaxing. But I’m glad I did it. 

The result is barely visible, but I know I did it, and that’s enough. 

Here you can see the mainstay and the relative cleat: 

 

 

And here the whole (I hope ordered) mess:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well, that’s all for today's update, please critique and point out errors or anything you don’t like, I really appreciate all your feedback!

 

Edited January 7, 2022 by Bruma

[kirill4]

Good day day,

 

Dear Bruma,

First, I would like to wish You Very Happy New Year!

Your building is going fantastic well !!! 

I follow your reports with great interest, thanks for posting!

there are a few pictures which could be useful ( artist Christopher Blossom)  with furled sails as You asked in one of your previous post ...

All The Best! 

Kirill

[Kevin-the-lubber]

Bruma, all the way back on post #5 you showed your reworked pin rails. On the kit part, the aft-most one is slightly spaced away from the hull, now that you are much further along, is there any reason for that spacing or is it just a 'true to reality' detail, i.e. does something need to fit into the small gap?

 

Right now (I'm remaking the rails completely) I'm placing the holes for the deadeyes  more or less in the centre of the rail depth, you placed yours much closer to the hull, similar to the kit placement. I thought that might make it even more difficult to rig; has that been the case or are they fine in that position?

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  Ahoy Bruma !  I'm not finding the furled sail pictures I recall seeing, but did see another forum-posted approach by Lubber that could be made a little less 'bunchy' by using a narrower strip (from side to side).  So I 'Googled' "furled sails" and found a few shots for educational purposes - The first one has the 'compactness' that I've seen a number of times.  Note that these are photographs of ships versus artist's pictures  -  there are many examples of contemporary and 'period' (typically engraved) representations of all sorts of sails in all weather.  The photos also show several appearances :  The first is once and compact, yet the second has a 'festooned' appearance (perhaps for show) where the sail cloth looks like bunting across a stage (the origin of bunt lines?).  Another shows more prominent hanging 'ears', and there are a couple of old shots of men working the yard ... the one at sea in sort-of rough conditions makes one think how challenging life at sea under sail can be.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[shipman]

What a delight to see how far you have come with your inspiring model, which you have introduced detail way beyond what I envisaged. Very humbling.

 

Nice to see you found such fine chain; do you mind sharing where you bought it?

[Bruma]

19 hours ago, Kevin-the-lubber said:

Bruma, all the way back on post #5 you showed your reworked pin rails. On the kit part, the aft-most one is slightly spaced away from the hull, now that you are much further along, is there any reason for that spacing or is it just a 'true to reality' detail, i.e. does something need to fit into the small gap?

I tried to place the pin rail holes in the position shown by Campell’s plan. They are correct on the fore-stern line, but, as you noticed, they should have been placed further away from the hull. The reasons are mainly two.

The first one is the deadeye size. Mine are slightly bigger than needed. 

At that time I didn’t have a resin 3d printer and I had to use what was available on the market but they interfere with the pins if placed correctly.

The second was to have a safer anchoring point for the backstays. Moving the deadeye holes  further away from the hull increases the leverage and the risk of detaching the pin rails once tension is applied.

Another point that should be considered is that the pin rails provided by revell are larger than the original, so the pins itselfs should be closer to the hull. 

There are so many things that I should have done better that looking back at the beginning of the build I am almost ashamed… 

What a great learning process it was and still is…

 

19 hours ago, Kevin-the-lubber said:

Right now (I'm remaking the rails completely) I'm placing the holes for the deadeyes  more or less in the centre of the rail depth, you placed yours much closer to the hull, similar to the kit placement. I thought that might make it even more difficult to rig; has that been the case or are they fine in that position?

The biggest issue I had was to find space for rigging the yard's halliards down to the pinrail itself. If you plan it from the beginning, you will have less headhake in the future.

 

2 hours ago, shipman said:

What a delight to see how far you have come with your inspiring model, which you have introduced detail way beyond what I envisaged. Very humbling.

 

Nice to see you found such fine chain; do you mind sharing where you bought it?

Thank you Shipman! 

The chain you see in the first picture of my previous post are from trumpeter master tools, article number 08010, “30 cm Universal Fine Chain” 2x 30 cm chain in each packet.

Hope this helps! 

 

@ Kirill and Snug Harbor Johnny:

 

Thank you both for the incredibly useful pictures and paintings! 

Meanwhile I did my homework and foun some great video on youtube, here you have one of them:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ft3EPJC-FtU&t=1072s

 

Starting from 15:07, the video shows seamen furing sails! 

 

Thank you all again for the help and support.

 

 

 

Edited January 10, 2022 by Bruma

[Kevin-the-lubber]

4 minutes ago, Bruma said:

I am almost ashamed

You should actually be incredibly proud, yours is an especially beautiful and convincing build. I'm coming to realise, from the discussion in this log in particular, that there's a lot of scope for 'interpretation' of the plans and no real right or wrong. You make a very good point about shifting the deadeyes as far outboard as possible because of leverage, in fact I've been turning that issue over and and over in my head since yesterday, to figure out a way of making the new pinrails really solid. I might try altering the steel gussets under the pinrails to give some reinforcement. Just a note on 3D printing - over the last year I've shifted more and more towards resin printing everything because of the superior finish and detail. But the work I did on the deck over the weekend has made me re-assess FDM and while I'll use resin for prototyping as it's much quicker, I'll try FDM for the final rails as it's much stronger and can be sanded smooth.

 

I'll also be sticking with 2mm and 3mm deadeyes instead of all the different sizes on Campbells plan, anything less than 2mm is getting too small.

[shipman]

Thanks for where to obtain the 'Trumpeter' chain, of which I've now ordered several packs (you never know when you will need it).

This stuff isn't cheap, but I'd never be able to make it at that size; looking forward to measuring how many links per inch it is as it does seem to be finer than my stock of tiny chain.

[shipman]

Splendid! The chain arrived and measures 31 links per inch. The smallest I already had is 25 lpi. and I thought that was fine.

This new stuff is chemically blackened brass. If anyone gets some, be aware the coating is quite flaky, much like that which is evident on members attempts at their own blackening. So handling should be kept to a minimum.

However, as it is so fine I can live with any colour issues.....the links are so tiny (1mm) you need a lens  to make them out individually. At the end of the day, nothing looks more like chain than chain!

Grateful to Bruma for putting me on to it.

[Kevin-the-lubber]

I grabbed some too while it was available!

[rwiederrich]

I use 42 LpI chain for all my 1/96 clippers 

 

I blacken it without flaking issues. I have very good results with it.   Cast Your Anchor is my supplier. 
 

Rob

[shipman]

Rob, I visited 'Cast Your Anchor'.

The smallest chain they list is 30lpi.

Unless I'm missing something.

[FrankWouts]

On 1/17/2022 at 12:13 PM, shipman said:

Rob, I visited 'Cast Your Anchor'.

The smallest chain they list is 30lpi.

Unless I'm missing something.

I see the same, smallest 30lpi.
However, when I google "cast your anchor model chain 42 lpi", I find this link: http://castyouranchorhobby.com/Item/MS0516

But,when clicking it, the Cast Your Anchor site says: 404 - Not found.

So it was there, but unfortunately not anymore?

Edited January 19, 2022 by FrankWouts

[FrankWouts]

40 lpi chain: https://www.hobbylinc.com/a-line-brass-chain1240-links-per-inch-ho-scale-model-railroad-accessory-29216

 

[Bill Morrison]

I just say this build log and and most impressed, especially given that this is your first model! Your beautiful model is simply one of the most impressive models I have seen, either plastic or wood. I have been building and modifying the Revell CSS Alabama for years and have decided to emulate the qualities you bring to our hobby!

Bill

[rwiederrich]

1 hour ago, FrankWouts said:

40 lpi chain: https://www.hobbylinc.com/a-line-brass-chain1240-links-per-inch-ho-scale-model-railroad-accessory-29216

 

Model railroading are always my alternate sites for accessories....like chain.

 

Cast Your Anchor's supplier no longer provides them with the 42 lpi chain apparently.   That is where I have purchased my chain for years....too bad.

 

I could get it in 6ft lengths too..

 

Rob

Edited January 19, 2022 by rwiederrich

[Joe100]

My goodness this is a beautiful build

[wemattson]

Any updates on this incredible build that you can share?  The anticipation is killing me.

[Bruma]

Hello everyone! 

Again a long time since my last update, sorry about that and thanks to wemattson and Joe100 for their recent comments. 

But now, it’s finally update time! 

 

 

Main and mizzen yards

After stepping and rigging the main mast, I have been working on the main and mizzen yard. Since the process is incredibly time consuming and, after a while, boring, I decided to build them all in one shot, hoping to be a little bit faster. 

Here you can see the making process of some of the metal parts.

 

 

 

And here they are almost finished, with the lower topsail crane fashioned with brass as well.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here the mizzen’s yards tapered and prepared for the metal fitting:

 

 

 

In this is image you can see the making process of the parrel yoke for topgallant, royal and sky yard:

 

 

 

And the way I used to secure them to the yards:

 

 

 

Then I started with the metal stripes on the yards, a very long process, only surpassed by the eyebolts making and fitting. 

In order to better understand my mental disease, here you have some numbers. 

For the main and mizzen yard I have fashioned and fitted:

216 eyebolts, mainly in two different sizes;

197 metal stripes 

22 pulleys

22 jackstays 

And the best of all this is that, once painted in black and fitted, many of the small details will not be so easy to spot… But I know they are there and I hope they will make a good impression! 

Now enough talking, some images (I hope not too many), of the finished yards:

 

 

 

 

Here the main yards:

 

 

And here the mizzen yards:

 

 

 

 

I hope you like them! 

Next step will be the rigging of the mainstay sails. 

Here I still have some doubts about the sheets: for the jib there are two sheets, one for each side in order to allow the change in tack. For the main and mizzen stay sail there is only one sheet (at least according to Underhill). How can they manage the tacking process? You have to untie the sheet on the deck and pass it over the stays, which seems to me at least impractical if not impossible…

Any information about that is very welcome!

 

 

 

Edited May 9, 2022 by Bruma

[Keith Black]

 Beautiful yards. 

[wemattson]

Beautiful workmanship and well worth the wait!

[Kevin-the-lubber]

That is pure quality. I would think twice about painting these, they are stunning as they stand. And you made all these by hand? 

[rwiederrich]

Great job Bruma.....Definitely.

 

Just like you, I opted to build all my yards(with furled sails) for the main mast of Glory at once too.  I just focused as you did.  We followed nearly the same process, with slight differences.  Now all you need do is mount them and rig them.....Riiiight.....I make it sound so simple and easy.

 

You did a fine exceptional job.  Painting them black I suppose?

 

Great build.

 

Rob

 

 

[LeoM]

Many thanks for all your pictures. Your yards are superb!

 

[gak1965]

Impressive Captain!

[Bruma]

Thank you all for the comments and likes, I really appreciate your feedback! In my previous post there was a question, but for some reason it was not at the end of the post as I want it to be, but somewhere in the middle, and it can be easily lost in between all the images.
So let me write it again here, hoping to get some help from you clipper's fan:

 

Next step will be the rigging of the mainstay sails. 

Here I still have some doubts about the sheets: for the jib there are two sheets, one for each side in order to allow the change in tack. For the main and mizzen stay sail there is only one sheet (at least according to Underhill). How can they manage the tacking process? You have to untie the sheet on the deck and pass it over the stays, which seems to me at least impractical if not impossible…

Any information about that is very welcome!

 

Thank you again for the great support! 

 

 

 

[Jim Lad]

Bruma, while the fore staysails were a vital part of the ships sail plan and essential for balancing the rig and also for driving the ship's head through the wind when tacking, the main and mizzen staysails were an 'added extra' - light sails used for a bit of extra driving force when conditions were right.  I would assume that if they were set when the ship was going to tack they would simply be hauled down and then re-set after the tacking maneuver was completed.

 

John

[Bruma]

On 5/10/2022 at 11:32 PM, Jim Lad said:

Bruma, while the fore staysails were a vital part of the ships sail plan and essential for balancing the rig and also for driving the ship's head through the wind when tacking, the main and mizzen staysails were an 'added extra' - light sails used for a bit of extra driving force when conditions were right.  I would assume that if they were set when the ship was going to tack they would simply be hauled down and then re-set after the tacking maneuver was completed.

 

John

Thank you, John, for the quick and precise answer! 

 

On 5/9/2022 at 6:24 PM, Kevin-the-lubber said:

That is pure quality. I would think twice about painting these, they are stunning as they stand. And you made all these by hand? 

Thank you! 

Yes, they are all hand made. 

And yes, I will paint them. Surely the details stands out better now, but I want to replicate the real ship as close as possible. And all the yards of the fore mast are already painted and installed, so, I will keep dooing the same. 

 

Edited May 12, 2022 by Bruma

[Bruma]

Before moving on, I realized I still have to rig the spencer gaff and sail. 

And again, I need your help. 

I have no idea how to rig them. 

Longridge sais: "the sheets were arranged, like the sheets of the headsail, with egg-shaped blocks to pass over the mizzen stay, with a tipping line to facilitate the operation".

How do you interpret that? One or two blocks? And, more important, where is supposed to start and end the line passing thought the block-blocks?

For the gaff, the only reference I was able to find is on Campbell's plan. He says "3" hemp Vang P&S and 5" block". But again, not mentioning the running part. The question is always the same:  where is supposed to start and end the line passing thought the blocks?

Any help will be greatly appreciated! 

Thank you! 

 

[Jim Lad]

Bruma, just so we're clear - are you asking about the spencer (on the main mast) or the spanker (on the mizzen)?

 

John