Medway Longboat 1742 1:24 scale by fnkershner

[fnkershner]

Chuck! You never cease to amaze me! I just heard this morning that you were unwell. Please take care of yourself! I look forward to at least a decade of modeling and learning from you. 

 

in the planking I have done so far I have worked hard to make sure each plank ended on a frame with just a 1/64" so that the adjoining plank would have a place to rest.

If I read you correctly, are you suggesting that I not drill all the way thru the plank?

[Rustyj]

44 minutes ago, fnkershner said:

If I read you correctly, are you suggesting that I not drill all the way thru the plank?

 

On the butt joints if you feel that you can't hit the frame then drill just deep enough to hold the line. I don't think they really supply structural support.

[Chuck]

Only those for the butt joints.  The others you can but dont drill all the way through the frames behind them.

[Jim Rogers]

Go easy on the drill holes. The Trenails are for show and not structural. I attached a plank on each side let it dry then drilled it. This way I was looking directly at the frame and the plank. Put on a dab of diluted PVA and inserted. I used a chisel head razor knife blade to cut off the tail. Try to maintain a straight line when drilling. 

[fnkershner]

Jim - Thanks for the above. It sounds like we are approaching this the same way. I had difficulty with the heat gun. I had no guide as to how much or how little to bend the plank. I went back to my own tried and true method. I have a 3 ft. long piece of 4" PVC. I plugged one end and I have it zipped tied to my worktable. I have filled it with water and I clamp planks to the top edge. I then clamp the plank in place and let it dry. I am also not very comfortable with CA so I am using PVA. I can't say why it did not occur to me that the drilled holes not go all the way thru. 

 

I am going to do as you suggest.

[fnkershner]

Finally I have reach a major milestone!  I am not sure why my hull doesn't look as good as some but I am going to stick with this. I did bevel the edges of the planks, but maybe not enough. As the admiral says the best planking I have ever done. I still have significant sanding to do.

 

I do have a couple of questions -

- In another log it mentions a 1/16" notch in the transom wings. If I read the instructions and plans I don't see the notch. It looks like all I ahve to do is adjust the length of the cap rail and the stern end raps around the transom.

- I noted the Ryland suggests fitting the stand at this point. Are you suggesting gluing it in place? or gluing the stand to the base?

- Do I need to sand out the laser char on the inside of the frames?

 

 

Edited November 24, 2020 by fnkershner

[Ryland Craze]

19 hours ago, fnkershner said:

I do have a couple of questions -

- In another log it mentions a 1/16" notch in the transom wings. If I read the instructions and plans I don't see the notch. It looks like all I ahve to do is adjust the length of the cap rail and the stern end raps around the transom.

- I noted the Ryland suggests fitting the stand at this point. Are you suggesting gluing it in place? or gluing the stand to the base?

- Do I need to sand out the laser char on the inside of the frames?

The 1/16" notch at the transom wings is for the cap rail to fit under the transom wings.  I had to open the gap between the top plank and the transom so that my cap rail would fit under the transom wing.  The end of the cap rail will be flush wit the outside of the transom.

 

When you do your final sanding of the hull, that is when I would fit the pedestals to the hull.  The reason I would do it at this stage is because it takes a lot of handling to get the proper angle of the pedestals to match the hull.  This is my preference as others have fitted the pedestals with no problems at the end of their build.

 

You have to thin down the interior frames, which will remove most of the laser char.  I referred to the pictures in Chapter 3 and tried to make my model match them.  I recall that it was a lot of sanding, especially as the inboard frames are faired.  You have to thin them down so that you will be able to fit the sheer plank.  The goal is to have the cap rail with the sheer plank installed to be slightly under 3/16".

 

You have a lot of sanding to do.  I had a few places where sanding opened up small gaps between the planks.  I used Minwax natural wood filler thinned with water to fill in the gaps.  I wish I had used it on some of the wood where I joined two pieces together and then painted over the joints, such as the cap rail and cockpit seats.

 

Finishing the planking is a major accomplishment.  Now the fun starts.

[fnkershner]

Ok, First I want to thank my Mentor Ryland for so much help. I also want to wish everyone a safe and healthy Thanksgiving. I also want to say why didn't you just say RTFM.  Yesterday I sat down and read all of Chapter 3. I found that most of my answers are there. I also found that 90% of chapter 3 is just plain Sanding. I spent a very large part of yesterday sanding and expect to do the same today. Hopefully I will be on to the bolsters tomorrow.

Edited November 26, 2020 by fnkershner

[Nirvana]

Looking good Floyd!

[fnkershner]

Well it is about time for an update to my Log! I can tell you I have spent many hours sanding. I have finished the Caprail and the inside plank of the caprail. Painted and install the Frieze. For the inside of the caprail I was have difficulty getting the laser cut pieces to fit. So I switched the a single strip of box wood that I had from another project. It was the same dimensions and easy to bend into place. I am finally feeling pretty good about this model. I am actually looking forward to using my scrapers to make the moldings for the bottom edge of the frieze. I also have some spray I use when I am printing decals. It has worked great on fixing and protecting these paper strips. I will be masking the hull with painters take before I spray this stuff on. it also has to be sprayed out of doors. But I wanted to pause and share my pictures. 

 

Chuck if I may offer a suggestion - there were 5 copies of the stern. So it was easy if I made a mistake. But only 1 copy of the sides and the small piece for the Bolsters. For the future could we please have a 2nd copy of each. Also could the stern strips be jsut a shade longer. My wallpaper hanging wife was frustrated that she could not get the pattern to match to her high standards and still reach the stern.

 

PS I spent days sweating the Bolsters. I did throw 3 away. But I actually had fun with them.

 

 

Edited December 9, 2020 by fnkershner

[Chuck]

Thats coming along fine.....There is a PDF of the friezes in the downloads forum.  You can print out as many as you need.   Just print them on plain printer paper.    Same is true for the flags and other details and templates.

 

 

 

 

[fnkershner]

I should have known you would have this covered. I should have checked with you first. but I am happy it looks good. chapter 3 should be done next week. Maybe I finish the whole thing by the end of Feb. Which will be a record for me.

[fnkershner]

I just noticed that it has been a month since I last updated this log. So here goes! In the pictures below you will see I have installed the molding below the Frieze along each side. I spent some time working out how to scrape the Boxwood, and I am pleased with the outcome. I have completed chapter 3 with the exception of drilling the hull planks for the Black filament. I decided to get to the point of drilling all the pieces at once. I am also trying to work out a reliable method for this drilling.

 

In a previous post I mentioned that I purchased some black art tape from Amazon that was 1/32" wide. The intent was to use the tape for the lining off of the bulkheads. I found that the 1/32" wide did not have enough adhesion to work for that purpose. so I went with a wider tape. But as you will see below I think I have found an excellent use for the 1/32" tape. I laid the hull upside down with a very bright light underneath. I then marked the location of the frames with the tape. I have also bent the floorboards to shape and marked them as well. I then took a #77 drill bit and placed a piece of scrap wood on the end and made sure only 3/64" of the bit would show. Then I tested it on scrap wood. Using my Dremel I have done several test drills and glued filament in place. I have found that it is too easy to press too hard and mar the surface. So I am rethinking this approach. If I can find my pin vice I will try the manual solution for 1000 holes! 

 

Suggestions and comments very welcome. I want these holes to come out so they look good and are in a straight line.

 

 I am also working on the bow & stern platforms. I remade the bow platform once (Thanks for the spare parts Chuck). Enjoy the pictures and stay tuned. 

 

 

Edited January 10, 2021 by fnkershner

[GuntherMT]

When I was drilling holes for the deck on my AVS I used the Dremel with a small drill bit.  Instead of putting a piece of wood on it like you are describing, I just used a small piece of Tamiya 1/8" wide masking tape and wrapped it around the drill bit at about the max depth I wanted the holes to be.  Since the depth of the holes isn't critical, I simply stopped drilling just before I got to the masking tape, it was a visual reference point, not a hard 'stop' for the bit.

Edited January 11, 2021 by GuntherMT

[fnkershner]

Wow! I had not realized that I have not posted anything since January. I will post some pictures very soon. So just an update on my build. I am well into Chapter 4. I have completed the fishing line on the outside, the floor boards, & the risers. I am currently working on the thwarts. I have 4 out of 8 completed and ready to glue into place. I am now working on getting the notches correct on the seats in the aft.

 

So I have 2 questions - In reading ahead, Chuck is discussing the mounts for the Windlass. There is mention of some square parts that are glued to the back of the mounts. Are these Laser cut or just made from stock? I have found 4 short pieces that are square and laser cut. I cannot find any use for them other than this.

 

2nd Question - Chuck can I get another copy of the template for the Windlass. I have really screwed it up. I usually make a copy of the plans but on this model I didn't. Can I also get a replacement wood stock. I have lots of wood. but nothing in that size. I will gladly pay for my mistake.

[Ryland Craze]

Hi Floyd.  I am glad to see you back at your workbench and working on your Medway Longboat.  You are correct that the 1/8" x 1/16" laser cut strips are used to support the bottom edge of the windlass bracket.  Chuck gives you four on the sheet, but you only need two, one for each side.

 

I have attached a template for the windlass that I scanned from my plans.  Make sure that the length of the template is 4 3/4" long as different printers may print at different scales than what the document was scanned at. As far as the wood needed to do another windlass, you will have to get it from Chuck or you could order it from Modeler's Sawmill, the Company that supplies Chuck with all of his wood needs.  Here is a link to their website: http://www.modelerssawmill.com/milled-wood-strips.php

 

As a side note, Chuck is on vacation until the middle of next week. 

 

You mentioned that you have finished all of your thwarts.  I finished all of mine, but only glued in the thwart as needed during construction.  I am farther along in the construction of my Longboat and I have only glued in the first, fourth (with mast hole) and the eighth thwart.  I just glued in the first thwart last night as I have finished the bowsprit and the ironwork attached to it.  The others are dry fitted and I have removed them so that I can get my fingers in the hull during rigging without the thwart being in the way.  I will glue the others in when I finish the rigging.  Not saying this is the right way, but it is working for me.

 

I am looking forward to seeing pictures of your progress.

Windlass Template.pdf

[fnkershner]

Thanks Ryland! you are my guardian angel 😀 I have gone to the site mentioned above. And placed my order. I can see I will be going there often.

 

Slight correction to the above. I have 4 out of 8 complete. I made number 1 and wasn't satisfied so I am remaking it. Numbers 2 & 3 came out great and are ready to be glued into place. I have 2 coats of Wipe on Poly on both the bottom and top. #4 is in progress ( need the powders mentioned above). #5 is being remade. #6 & #7 came out nice and are also complete and ready to install. I am also working on details for #8 and the seats.

 

For the fixed block on the lower starboard bow. Is there anything that is actually rigged to this block? I can't find anything in the rigging plan.

I am curious about others experience with blackening vs paint. For example the metal strips on thwart #4 that holds the mast. I am leaning towards Paint instead of Blackening.

[Ryland Craze]

The fixed block at the stem is used in the rigging of the bowsprit. The outhaul is attached to the traveler ring on the bowsprit, it runs through the sheave at the end of the bowsprit, back to the fixed block and then tied off at the first thwart.

[fnkershner]

After reading so much about Chuck's painting technique with the Academy Paint and the weathering powder. I have decided to take the plunge. I bought a tube of the paint, a couple of brushes, & a small weathering kit. I went to the local model train store. T

hey had several different powder kits. I settled on one that had 4 colors - Antique Iron, Lime White, Old Tuscan, Dark Rail Brown. The Antique Iron looks very much like rust. So I will start with this one. For this kit the powders come in small zip lock bags and have a divided plastic box to pour the powder into.

 

I am very interested in learning more about these Powders. Please share your experiences and tricks. For those of you using Weathering Powders. How do you apply the powder and what do you using for a final coat to seal the powder? Wipe On Poly will not work. Since it requires a brush or paper towel to apply.

Edited July 5, 2021 by fnkershner

[fnkershner]

Ok a quick update - Below you will see my tentative testing with the weathering Powder. But first a quick update on my Model. All of the Thwarts are complete and installed (not permanently). I am working on cutting the notches in the side seats. And as the same time I am also working on the Windlass. I messed up the windlass on my first try so now it is on to the 2nd try.

 

As part of the work to complete the 4th Thwart I am testing the Powder. Based on several comments on this blog I have decided to go with flat black paint instead of blackening. Anyway please let me hear your feedback on the powder test.

 

 

Edited July 5, 2021 by fnkershner

[fnkershner]

I can see it is time for a quick update on my build. In late July we got a surprise from our landlord. He had decided to sell the house we were renting. And he wanted to sell quickly. So began the 2 week scramble to find a new home and get moved. In addition to this our dog required Surgery. In other words not much modeling for the past month. I have been spending most of my infrequent free time building a Drill press table that will also act as a cheap lathe. As soon as it is completed I will post a picture.

 

During the move I seem to have lost the list of materials for the Masting kit. Can someone please post this list? I have the mast and the plans. I just want to make sure I have all the parts.

[Ryland Craze]

Wow Floyd!  What a bummer having to find a new home so quick.

 

I have attached the materials list for the masting package.  I hope you can find time to get back to your build.

 

Medway Masting Materials.pdf

[fnkershner]

Ryland! You are too quick. As luck would have it. I decided to dig thru my parts 1 more time. I found the masting kit bag. So I am good and finally going back to modeling. This is in between playing Nurse to my dog. He has another 6 weeks of recovery which includes 3 time a day of physical therapy. But he is so attached to me he will be my modeling assistant in the garage.

[fnkershner]

Well I am on the home stretch as you will see below. At times it has been fun and other times the source of much cursing. I am about to drill the holes for the thole pins. and I am working on the oars. So I have a couple questions - Can someone provide a closeup of the oar blade? I am curious how you shaped the blade. I also have struggled with the upper rudder hinge. It has ripped the Frieze twice on the transom. I need to add a coat of Wipe On Poly to the rudder and transom. 

 

I have also begun the work on the rigging. The Bowsprit has been shaped and tapered, As has the Gaff. The mast is now round and I am working on the tapering. The boom is almost complete.

 

As promised above below you will see a picture of my new Drill Press Lathe. I did a lot of research on how to make a cheap lathe to turn square stock into round spars. As is often mentioned many ship builders are using a drill. But all of my drills are battery operated, and it is recommended that you a corded drill. So instead of buying yet another drill I decided to use my table top drill press. This bench can be used for many purposes as well as adding the live tailstock so that I can turn spars. The square of wood you see for the tailstock is intentionally off center. This way I can rotate the square of wood in the slot 4 times before I have to replace it. I also used a skate board bearing for the tailstock.

 

 

Edited October 15, 2021 by fnkershner

[gjdale]

Looking good Floyd.  Shaping the oar blades is easier than you might first think. I achieved this with some soft curved sanding blocks but you could do the same thing by just rolling some sandpaper into a sort of tube to provide a curved but not rigid sanding surface.

[fnkershner]

Grant thanks for the feedback. I was thinking of just sanding the edges so they are thinner. But you are suggesting a subtle curve from the center out to the edge. I will give that a try. I like the idea.

 

Chuck - Just and FYI from my perspective. In many places you provided spare parts. For this I am grateful. I have used many of those extra pieces as I reached this point. The one place where there weren't any spares was the Gudgeons & Pintles. Respectfully please include a 2nd set of these pieces. I won't bore you with my struggles. let's just say it was challenging.

[gjdale]

Floyd,

 

Here's a picture from my log showing the shaping of the oar blades. They both taper in thickness as they proceed from inboard to outboard and also have a very slight curve. The tapers/curves are fairly subtle but they make a big difference to the finished look.

 

 

[Ryland Craze]

You have made a lot of progress on your Longboat and it is looking great.  You will find the masting and rigging very satisfying as you head to the finish line.

[Nirvana]

4 hours ago, fnkershner said:

Grant thanks for the feedback. I was thinking of just sanding the edges so they are thinner. But you are suggesting a subtle curve from the center out to the edge. I will give that a try. I like the idea.

 

Chuck - Just and FYI from my perspective. In many places you provided spare parts. For this I am grateful. I have used many of those extra pieces as I reached this point. The one place where there weren't any spares was the Gudgeons & Pintles. Respectfully please include a 2nd set of these pieces. I won't bore you with my struggles. let's just say it was challenging.

 

Floyd, I am so glad you didn't give up. (I hope our conversations has helped you )

You are back overcoming struggles we all encounter when we build our models.

I know for sure how hard they can be!

Besides, your Medway looks really good. I am happy you continued!

[fnkershner]

I want to thank both Ryland & JP for their information regarding the thole pins. I have marked the locations of the holes in the cap rail with masking tape and made the wooden template to drill the holes. I have also cut the 3/64 X 3/64 strips to the 1/2 inch length as recommended by Chuck. So now I reach my question - I have a draw plate (unfortunately it is not from Jim Byrnes). How do you pull your pins thru the drawplate without damaging them or marring them with plyers. I find that 320 or 400 grit is all that is needed to get the strips rounded off. and then I go to the draw plate to ensure a common size.

 

So in short, very soon I will be drilling the holes in the cap rail. But I am not sure how to get a consistent size for the pins without damaging them.