USS Constitution by Force9 - Revell - PLASTIC - Revisiting the classic 1/96 kit

[Force9]

I've dabbled a bit with woodworking over the years and I once had a neighbor who was terrific with wood.  He said that every good woodworker needs to first learn how to recover from his/her mistakes (or learn to hide them) before they can progress to the next level.  I suppose that must also hold true for model ship builders...

 

I've had to backtrack a bit to correct a big oops.  My original solution for "exposing" the frames of the ship involved glueing strips of .080 x .156" styrene to the inside curvature of the hull.  It seems that over time the inherent tension has caused these to distort the shape of the hull and create a potential headache down the line.  It might be solvable when I install the decks, but I didn't like the idea of all that tension in place over the years.  I decided to do what I should've done to begin with - use thinner .040 x .156" (Evergreen no. 147) built up in two laminated layers.  This is similar to what I had done on my Heller Victory with reasonable success.  There will be much less tension/stress on the shape of the hull when this is done.

 

After first prying off the original strips (they zinged and zanged all across the workshop as I popped them off individually), I took a few evenings to redo everything:

 

 

 

Much better now.  The remaining distortion will be easily corrected when I install the gun deck.

 

Whew.

Edited June 3, 2013 by Force9

[Force9]

On to the quarter galleries... 

 

I used some very thin strips to approximate the dimensions of the PE brass on the transom windows.  I first cut away the existing gallery window frames and then laid down some horizontal "tracks" of .010 x .030" (Evergreen no. 101) strips along the inner surface.  I then used a slightly thinner .010 x .020" (Evergreen no. 100) strip for the vertical frames - resting them on the even tracks as I glued them in place.  I didn't want too much dimension by using the thicker strips everywhere:

 

 

 

 

I think this will suffice nicely - gives a more scaled look to the windows while also matching the stern transom window frames.

 

Thanks again for looking in.

Evan

Edited June 3, 2013 by Force9

[DCooper]

Excellent work on the quarter galleries.  I spent hours trying to clean up and thin the ones on my build and they don't look as good as your replacements.  I would be interested in knowing what material you have in mind for glazing the windows.  I have been playing about with plain white glue as a film but it never dries quite evenly.

 

Inspirational as always.  Thanks for sharing.

 

Dan

[Marcus.K.]

Very thrilling .. its interesting to learn that the modified hull is in danger of stress and distortion. How do you assure that the shape is still correct when the slot is done? Do you compare your hull with something ?? Do you have a template of the sheer plan ? How big was the distortion ? Did you actually see it or was it just visible by assembling the halfs with the decks ? ... Sorry : so many questions .. but thinking about comparable modifications makes a bit nervous   

 

I would expect that the stress will decrease during the lifetime of the model - caused by setting of the material. But in any case the once existing stress will cause strain at the beginning - and even if the decks would help to eliminate some of the distortion - there would be still a bit in the hull .. And of course : the strain / distortion might show up AFTER the assembly with induced stress .. due to the "working" and setting of some of the components ... and the weaker one will show most of the distortion - and you never know which one it will be - and how much will be visible ..

 

The technique with laminated frames is of course a very smart solution ! Thanks for showing and indicating this trap !

 

 

I very much like the improved appareance of the windows. But isn´t it a problem that now the "vertical" strokes of the frames are back behind the horizontal ones? Or is this just visible with those macro-pictures ?

 

 

I always love to see your results - and I am looking forward seeing more ! Especially your colour scheme in real life ! 

Edited June 3, 2013 by Marcus.K.

[lambsbk]

Nice job on the gallery windows Force9. I love watching how you think outside the box. Although my hull stress problem is a little different in nature I pre-stressed the hull by attaching external wood clamps. This has held the gun deck in relative position while I work it and can be relieved once the spar deck is glued. It was only moved by 1/8" or so but that amount makes a huge difference in the gun tackle line tension.

 

I enjoy (and am inspired) watching your work.

Edited June 3, 2013 by lambsbk

[mtaylor]

Evan,

 

I haven't said anything yet but I have been following along.  That's an interesting and challenging idea to show frames.  How did you figure out that there was distortion?  Just curious on that.

[texxn5]

Hello Force9. I can't believe it took me this long to find your log. I admire what you are doing. My Conny is not anywhere near this detailed, and I have finished her a few weeks ago. I wish I had found this forum earlier as I would have done many of the same things. I look forward to following your build and seeing your progress. This will give me ideas for what I will do to my MSW CW Morgan as I have just started to build her. Thanks for the pictures and resources.

John

[Force9]

Ahoy all...

 

Dan - good to see you back at your build. I've experimented a bit with the window glazing with scrap pieces.  I'd agree that the white glue is giving uneven results (at least so far).  I've also tried some of the Krystal Klear type stuff and it is marginally better.  We'll see...

 

Marcus - thanks again for chiming in!  The distortion became apparent when I started to test fit the two decks to check on the alignment of the capstans, stove, etc.  The gap seemed huge - something close to 1/2 inch.  No need to use templates or consult the sheer plans.  After shortening the length of the new strips and laminating the pieces, the remaining distortion is only 1/4" or less.  Easily solved when I install the decks.

 

Lambsbk - I like your clamp solution very much - I'll need to consider something similar. (and did you see my earlier note regarding the anchor cables?)

 

Mark - Hello again!  Thanks for checking in... I hope my efforts to show the frames will be successful.  A lot will depend on the paint job to make it convincing!

 

Tex - I'm glad you've discovered my build log.  I did catch the very end of your effort.  I still say it is a rare thing to see someone actually complete the beast - well done!

 

Thanks again to everyone for your interest and kudos!  I am fiddling with the rudder and hope to have an update soon.

 

Cheers

EG

[lambsbk]

Yes. I just now saw it. I have 2 anchor cables and would like to push them through the gun deck transitioned from the hull hause holes. Your info is very helpful as I was sure the hause holes to the cable locker are currently aft of the original position. Thanks for your help.

[lambsbk]

Thanks also for the Marquardt reference. I just bought the book online and can't wait to review it.

[Force9]

The Marquardt AOTS book has a bunch of great detail drawings for stuff like the routing of the anchor cables, etc.  His interpretation of the 1812 look of the ship, however, is very questionable.   It seems more like a melding of the 1927 restoration with a mid-1800s version. Many of the features included by KHM (skylights, etc.) have since been discredited by deeper research done by Tyrone Martin and others.  Ole Karl might have been better off just utilizing the Hull model (which he apparently didn't know existed!).

 

EG

[Jasseji]

Hey Force9, i am following your build-log and cant await the moment when my kit arrives so i can start too

 

I wanted to ask you, is there a chance to scan the parts list from your Bluejacket manual ?

I wanted to include the stove and the girders too and maybe some other parts as well.

 

Best wishes from Poland

[lambsbk]

Thanks for the heads up on the AOTS book. I will use the info but try to corroborate through other sources before including it in my build.

Edited June 7, 2013 by lambsbk

[chris watton]

Great thread!

 

Styrene strip is an absolute godsend for both plastic and wooden models...

[texxn5]

Thanks EG, you know when I got finished with the Conny, (actually I still need to mount her to a nice base and tidy up a few lines)  but, for me it was the first time I have ever seen this beast completed in person.  It actually was quite thrilling to back off and let just how much detail goes into these things soak in.  They really do make outstanding displays.  Hardest thing is protecting it from getting hit, and I don't have the room for a case...oh well back to the Morgan, wood is fun to work with --- at least so far I think that.....I'll look forward to following your progress...good luck.

John

[Force9]

Hello Jasseji...

 

I hope not everyone is walking around Poland with a musket!

 

Thanks for your kind interest and I will see if I can dig up a scan of the BJ parts listing for you - look for a PM.

 

EG

[Force9]

The Rudder...

 

The kit provided version was noticeably lacking any copper plating so, just for yucks, I thought I'd build my own version of the rudder...

 

It has always struck me as odd that the Revell Constitution has a cylindrical rudder head instead of a squared one similar to other period ships.  My first thought was to replace that... But then I did some research.  It turns out that the good folks at Revell probably got that right!  We do see the cylindrical rudder head on the Hull model:

 

 

When Constitution was first launched she had a typical "rule joint" type rudder with the square rudder head.  This rudder type required a larger opening in the lower transom to allow for the arc of the rudder head as it swung back and forth during turns.  Howard Chappelle notes in his American Sailing Navy book that the US Navy had replaced all of their  rudders with the newer "plug" type by 1801 or thereabouts.  This new innovation utilized the cylindrical shape and moved the rudder head forward so that the center aligned along the same axis as the pintles.  This eliminated the arc pattern of the rudder head - instead it spun exactly in line with the pivot point of the pintles.  This allowed for a much smaller opening under the transom - and perhaps a tighter feel for the helm.  Learn something every day.

 

Here was my approach:

 

I glued together four strips of .100 x .156" styrene (Evergreen 177) and did the basic shaping on a small vice using a heavy file.  Next I carved a groove into some appropriate rod styrene (same as what I used on the Galley Stove pipe) and affixed that to the top - centered, of course, over the leading edge.  Once done, I came back along and notched in the locations for the rudder pintles:

 

Now I needed to copper plate the thing. I used .010 x .125" (Evergreen 106) for the plates.  I whipped up a quick jig (using some available scraps) to help align the "copper" strips while I rolled in the rivet pattern on one edge.  I used the smallest roller in my collection to approximate the pattern existing on the kit plating.  The rest of the bolt heads I did by hand using my trusty scribe tool.

 

Took me about an hour to plate each side:

 

Lastly I came along and added the various straps, spectacle plate, etc.

 

Here is the result:

 

BTW - It turns out, the kit provided rudder is actually pretty good.  As noted it properly represents the "plug" type version.  This is not surprising since it is based on the Campbell plan and he consulted extensively with Chappelle. The rudder edges also taper nicely from forward edge to after edge, and from top to bottom.  Ultimately, a very nice upgrade could probably be had by simply adding the copper plates.

 

 

Thanks again folks for wading thru my entries!

EG

Edited June 12, 2013 by Force9

[popeye the sailor]

looks very nice......

[DCooper]

It's all in the details Evan.  Superb rudder detail.

 

I am very appreciative of the extra effort you go to.  You not only show what you are doing but how and more importantly why you are doing it.

 

I was wondering though why the extra projection at the top of the rubber.  Does an eye bolt go there for some sort of chain?  I've seen that on other ships.  I don't know it's function.

 

From your post it seems as a viable alternative would be to sand off all the detail and add copper clad then some details in styrene.  

 

Thanks for sharing.

 

Dan 

[Jasseji]

Hello Jasseji...

 

I hope not everyone is walking around Poland with a musket!

 

Thanks for your kind interest and I will see if I can dig up a scan of the BJ parts listing for you - look for a PM.

 

EG

 

No, just me, sometimes with a cannon too

 

BJ's shipping might be too much for the package value (50$ for the shipping alone, even with ~20$ orders) so i might have to look for an european supplier but thanks anyways

 

I will have to find some European supplier for the stove.

Edited June 10, 2013 by Jasseji

[Marcus.K.]

Wow .. a simple detail as a rudder - and again you did your homework and we all have to learn something! Great! Thanks for showing and explaining!

[Force9]

Thanks all for the compliments

 

Dan - I do think the kit rudder can be tarted up with relative ease - sand off the details and add the plates and other elements. I used .010 x .060 strips for the pintle strapping. A small slice of .80 x .80 styrene served as the butt end of the tiller arm. I think the key is to try to match the existing bolt pattern as closely as possible to make the rudder plates seem like they belong.  The transition from each rudder timber to the next was called a "hance" (I think).  My understanding is that these were purely decorative.  My "hornlike" version was copied over from the USS President drawings that I used for a template (Chappelle).  I may have over-dramatized the shape and I might tone it down slightly before final fitting.  The rudder pendant chains were usually affixed to the spectacle plate which extends aft just below the hance.

 

Marcus - I am glad I did my homework first!  I should mention that the newer rudder type is also commonly called a "Snodgrass Rudder" - presumably after the inventor.  Karl Heinz Marquardt  in his AOTS book insists that the Constitution still had the old "Rule Joint" version during the war years.  He doesn't offer much reasoning beyond the fact that the newer type took years to become standard.  The European navies apparently didn't authorize use of the newer version until decades after the merchant services had employed them... Howard Chappelle was elbow deep in original ship plans and builder's notes in his role at the Smithsonian and would be in a great position to assert the early adoption by the American navy.  I've gone with his perspective and not Marquardt's.

 

Jasseji - that is a shame about the extreme overseas shipping rate.  I would think that a reasonable version of a galley stove could be whipped together using styrene components.... Small brass microtubing combined with the small Jotika PE eyelets could also be used for the hammock cranes.  Gratings are probably available from other sources in various scale sizes.  I am relieved that all of Poland is not so heavily armed.  We have a good family friend from your lovely land and she insists that the natives are very friendly.

 

Thanks again for the kind comments

Evan

[NAZGÛL]

Very nice work on all details! You are making the model shine.

 

 

/Matti

[Force9]

Thank you Matti!

 

I just had a look at your Vasa - wonderful!

 

Evan

[Force9]

Folks

 

Here is another quick exercise I undertook... The Stern Bumpkins.

 

Many representations of the great ship show the presence of Stern Bumpkins (or Main Brace Spreaders, or Main Brace Bumpkins, etc.).  We see an example on the "Loring" model that is currently undergoing restoration at the USS Constitution Museum:

 

 

Marquardt includes them in his reconstruction and Olof Eriksen shows them as well in his 1815 version.  I went ahead and dabbled a bit with a quick mockup just to get a sense of what might be involved if I go down the same path:

 

 

It may be that my version is slightly undersized - hard to tell.  I used some spare .080 x .080" strip and some scraps of PE brass.  If I do include these I might try .100 x .100" and drill through the bulwark to extend into the hull for more rigidity.

 

However, I am hesitant to go this route.  I think it is very likely that these were present through most of the War of 1812, but I can't see any evidence that they were fitted during her battle with Guerriere.  

 

 

The Hull model clearly does not show these and neither do the Michele Felice Cornè, Thomas Birch, or George Ropes Jr. paintings.  For now, I think I'll hold off.

 

EG

[dafi]

The usual stunning research and execution :-)

 

Bravo!!!

 

With a deep bow, DAniel

[JerryTodd]

Mock up and operate the main brace to see if it fouls anything without the bumpkin - though I would wager she had them, I haven't seen an original plan of an American war ship that didn't have them right into the 1870's.

There's other things "missing" from the Hull model, most notably the ship's wheel - I wouldn't take so minor a detail as written in stone.

Edited June 12, 2013 by JerryTodd

[popeye2sea]

I have been told that the Loring model of the Constitution is a mix of different iterations(?) of the ship.  And it is not a very good model to use as a reference piece.  

[KimatHm]

Ahoy There, Force 9...!!! Kim Here... I've been following your log for awhile now, and I'm finding your work, and 'Instinctive, & Innovative' modifications excellent, to say the least...!!!  I too, (along with many others !) had several posts ( along with my membership stuff to MSW!!)& photos lost somewhere in 'cyberland' after the MSW crash...anyway, I've been modeling for close to 50 some years now...( Just gave away the age here !!) and I'm pretty impressed with your work, especially with the modifications...I had done some of the same type of modifications on my Cutty Sarks' ( I always built my ships in pairs...one with, and another without the sails ) , especially when it came to replacing the dead-eyes, & belay pins with metal, or wood ones, after drilling out the parts that were supplied with the kits...It just didn't seem to do a beautiful build justice, by ruining it with the plastic replicas, in the rigging department,...of course it takes a LOT of work, and endless patience, but it's well worth it when the 'Jaws Drop' and the reviews , and compliments come, let alone just feeling the sense of accomplishment...!!! Anyway, I just finished another pair of 'Cuttys' (for Myself this time !!), and I was actually pretty impressed with how I was able to modify the set of 'plastic' sails that were supplied with a kit from 1959 (!!!) ...It took 4' water-color' acrylic shades to achieve a most impressive 'weathered' and realistic / cloth like appearance to the finished Ships...in their cases...( I'll send photos if desired ) and will be more than happy to offer tips for getting the same results, if you wish, since I'm still attempting to 're-build' my old build logs, that were lost...Additionally, I was able to locate a company in Michigan, that was superb in replicating the old waterslide decals, in PE brass ( very expensive, but well worth it, to myself, and to the integrity of the finished Ship...) I didn't intend to write a 'book here, but I mainly wanted to extend my compliments, on some VERY EXCEPTIONAL work your doing...Keep it up, matey, and many Blessings your way...!!! Thanks for your posts ...!!! Kim

Edited June 20, 2013 by KimatHm

[ndeconte]

My hat off to you force9, AMAZING work!?!

 

Being new to the hobby and tackling this same kit as my first very shortly, your work is inspiring.