USS Constitution by ERS Rich - Model Shipways - 5/32

[ERS Rich]

Introduction 
 

This is the Model Shipways Kit No. 2040, 5/32” scale.

 

Kit purchased new about 2005.  Notably, after starting (15 years later!), noticed Plan Sheet 5 missing, contacted Model Shipways and they immediately sent a replacement at no charge.

 

Building out of the box - meaning using kit supplied plans and materials, and adding additional hardwood wood if necessary.

 

Update 7/18/20:  See this post (currently pending) for upgraded parts and sources.

 

This kit is not for the novice.  You should come to this game with at least 1 ship model under your belt, preferably several.   And you need an understanding of the nature of wood and how to shape it using chisels, files, and a hand plane.  These tools need not be expensive, however they must be sharp.  I recommend a 1/4” fish tale chisel from Lie-Nielson located in Maine.

 

Power tools are used, they save time, essential to me for this project as there are hundreds of cuts.  Not necessary though.

 

I’ve built many kits and expect this to be some old hat but also I’m stretching into new areas like building stern galleries.  So welcome aboard, I’m glad you are here.

 

USS Constitution References:

• my own photographs of the ship
• Anatomy of the Ship: USS Constitution
• College of Model Shipbuilding: USS Constitution Practicum

 

General References:

• David Antscherl’s: HMS Swan Class Sloops - for construction techniques 
• Mastini: Ship Modeling Simplified
• George F. Campbell, M.R.I.N.A.: The Neophyte Ship Modelers Jackstay (Inexpensive and Essential)

 

Table of Contents (incomplete, much more in the log)

Part 1: Hull

 

• Doweling the Stem, Sternpost, and Keel to Centerboard
• Bulkhead Marking and Glueup Prep
• Shaping the Counter Block
• Bulkhead Glueup
• Completing the Counterblock
• Transom Frame Prep
• Bow and Stern Block Prep
• Shaping the Bow Filler Block and Fairing the Bulkheads
• Shaping the Filler Blocks (continued)
• Shaping the Filler Blocks (continued), Starting Bow Framing
• Bow Framing (continued)
• Bow Framing Completion
• Transom Frame Installation
• Making and Installing the Waterway
• Tools
• Inner Planksheer/Bulwarks and Bowsprit Prep
• Framing and Cutting Out the Gunports
• Cutting Out the Gunports (continued)
• Gunport Cleanup and Bulwark Prep
• Bulwark Completion
• Leveling the Bulwarks
• Lower Gunport Upper Sills
• Lower Gunport Framing and Planking
• Smoothing the Planking
• Gunports and Upper Hull Planking Completion
• Mast Partners/Tenons and Deck Framing
• Coamings and Hatch Framing
• Planking the Wales - Planking Without Pins or Clamps
• Tapering a Plank
• Planking Starboard Wale
• Belt A Installation - Starboard Side
• Forming the Forward Planks
• Belt B Installation - Starboard Side
• Belt C Installation - Starboard Side
• Belt D Installation - Starboard Side
• Belt B - Port Side, Marking the Belt Width
• Dealing with Butt Joint Gaps
• Using Proportional Dividers
• Plank Glue Up
• Completion of Port Side Planking
• USS Constitution Pictures - June 2020

 

Part 2: Fitting Out

 

• Installing Eyebolts for Carronade Tackle
• Installing Large Inboard Bulkhead Cleats
• Installing Small Inboard Bulkhead Cleats
• Fitting the Cathead
• Painting the Bulkwarks
• Cleaning Up the Dust
• Finish and Installing Deck Grates
• Deck Plank Stock Preparation
• Planking the Deck - Part 1
• Planking the Deck - Part 2
• Planking the Deck - Part 3
• Planking the Deck - Part 4
• Evening Deck Finish Color

 

 

Edited February 2 by ERS Rich

[ERS Rich]

Doweling the Stem, Sternpost, and Keel to Centerboard
 

Marked bearding line with templates made from plan. Cut rabbet with fishtail chisel and finished with wood file.  Elmers and clamps to attach Stem, Keel, and Sternpost.  
 

Dowel Stem, Keel, and Sternpost for strength.

 

Dowel setup: Foredom hand piece in Foredom drill press. Centerboard in shoulder vice.  1/16” bit.  1/16” dowels by Bluejacket.  Roll dowels under hardwood piece to compress fibers.  
 

Tap in dowels with mini hammer, using brass end.

 

 

Edited February 13, 2021 by ERS Rich
Photo add, text edit

[ERS Rich]

Bulkhead Marking and Glueup Prep

 

Photocopy bulkheads on plans.  Plan shows bevel lines on bulkheads A-E and M-R.  Cutout bevel line on one side of bulkhead template and outside on the other side.  Use template and a pencil to shade areas on bulkhead edges that will be beveled.  I’m going to bevel after the bulkheads are glued up.

 

Measure and mark the bulkhead horizontal lines.  Use dividers to measure height of reference line off top corner of notch.  Place straight edge along bulkhead notch and impress a dot into the bulkhead the correct height.  Rotate steel rule 90 degrees and reference the dot and the notch corner.  Draw horizontal reference line.

 

Use flat file to remove laser residue in both bulkhead and center board notches.  I like an easy fit.  Spent a couple of hours on this.  Work the centerboard notches so bulkheads slide in easy.  I did snap a couple of centerboard tabs, one between bulkheads C and D, while filing because of the grain direction.  Glued the tabs and reinforced with a wood strip.

 

Mount the centerboard on a board, here melamine board with runners attached with pin nails.

 

Check that reference lines on the centerboard and bulkheads align.

 

Ready for glue up.

 

 

Edited February 13, 2021 by ERS Rich

[ERS Rich]

Shaping the Counter Block

 

Woodworking is all about measuring, marking, and removing the waste.  Counter templates created from the plan with Vellum, Straight Rule, and French curves.  Glue tracing to card stock, compress on bench with woodblock and clamps.

 

Given counterblock provided in kit needs to be reduced in thickness to 11/32”, hard to do with a machine safely, created a new block with the table saw, by setting fence to 11/32” and re-sawing a 3/4” board.  Then cut to rough dimensions with Byrnes saw and sawstop with Incra sliding table.
 

Mark lines with a pencil and marking gauge, shape with jackplane mounted in vise, and Ultimation disk sander.

 

 

 

 

Edited February 13, 2021 by ERS Rich

[ERS Rich]

Bulkhead Glueup 
 

Step 1: Installed bulkhead A, aligning vertically the centerboard and bulkhead reference marks.  Used machinist blocks to square bulkhead to centerboard.  Checked square with a machinist rule. Checked vertical alignment with pencil lines across the bulkhead tops.  Tacked with small dabs of CA.  Installed all bulkheads.

 

Step 2: Setup Byrnes saw with sliding table to cut the blocks. Blocks are hickory.

 

Installed blocks in opposing corners at each bulkhead/centerboard joint.

 

Step 3: Installed outboard blocks.  Block length determined with vernier caliper measurement of distance between bulkheads at centerboard.  Checked square with a block.

 

Step 4: Checked results. Diagonal measurements between first and last bulkheads are equivalent (25 1/2”).  This surprised me a little bit, expected to be out a little bit.  
 

Looking back, probably could have skipped Step 1 above.  Since it all worked out I’m a happy camper....

 

Also pulled off a thin bulkhead top beam by pulling up to remove the bulkhead from the centerboard, end grain....

 

Next are the Counter and Bow/Stern filler blocks.

 

 

Edited February 13, 2021 by ERS Rich

[ERS Rich]

It would have been so much easier to build this vertically? Next time.....

 

 

[Axo938]

I just started a constitution build myself, I’m in the process of gluing the bulkheads right now. Yours is looking great and you gave me a few ideas to try. I’ll be following along with your build, keep up the good work.

[Matt D]

It looks like you’re off to an excellent start, Rich.  I’m looking forward to watching this come together.

[JSGerson]

I'm impressed by your workmanship and not to mention your shop. Very nice work so far. Your opening statement was "Building out of the box." Are you planning not to deviate from the kit or do you have any surprises in store for us?. BTW, welcome aboard to the Conny builders.

Jon

[ERS Rich]

Hello, happy new year!  
 

“Out of the box”, to me, means building with the kit supplied plans, and parts.  And with the Anatomy of the Ship book, and my own photographs.
 

A couple of things..... 

 

My last few projects included a couple of vintage kits, purchased on eBay, Eagle and Katy, that required gathering fittings, extra work etc. so enjoying that this kit is complete.

 

And to set the expectation.  I want to respect the Constitution experts, who know the ins and outs of this ship, of which I am not.  
 

My general interests are sharing techniques and creating an accurate representation of the ship that pleases the viewer.

 

This project is the next step in my learning curve: 3 masts, ship rigged.  And a lot of guns too!

 

-Rich
 

 

[ERS Rich]

Completing Counter Block
 

Happy New Year!

 

Finished up the counter today.  
 

Continued shaping the counter block.  Made a couple of blanks, just in case, however, one was enough.

 

Step 1:  Shaped aft bevel, with hand plane setup in vise (see post above) and flat file.  
 

Removed most of the bevel with the hand plane.  Notice the piece is moved through the plane at an angle, shear cut.  Had some tear out near the lines.  So proceeded with the file to flatten the facets and flatten the bevel.

 

Love using the flat file for this work, it’s easy to stay in the lines and flatten the surface.

 

Along the way clamped piece to the table and moved the file, clamped file to table and moved the piece.

 

Step 2: Placed counter blank on frame, centered, above stern post.  Tapped with mini hammer to get a location mark for the through hole.   Hand drilled a pilot hole and finished with a round file.  Spent an hour or so filing and checking the fit with the rudder taped in place and the transom frame.

 

Step 3: Checked the result with Transom frames.  The top of the frame is just about flush with bulkhead R (may add a wood shaving under the transom block to raise it a bit.

 

Left the outboard ends of the transom oversized and will fit to stern filler blocks later.

 

Next is the stern and bow filler blocks.

 

 

 

 

Edited February 13, 2021 by ERS Rich

[ERS Rich]

Transom Frame Prep
 

An upcoming, interesting, challenge is processing the outboard port and starboard Transom frames.  Each frame has a bevel on the deck and forward side.

 

First off the parts are marked: Inboard, Port/Starboard, deck edge and forward edge.

 

The issue is how to form the bevels given frames can’t be changed dimensionally and they are unique.  Failure means much wasted time making a replacement.

 

The first thought is cutting the frame bevels with the Byrnes saw and tilt table.  But the cut would have to be perfect - a little risky.  
 

Doing by hand is necessary.  So decided to use the table saw to make a form beveled on two sides.

 

Temporarily place the counter block and align with blocks.

 

Step 1: Measure the deck bevel angle with a protractor.

 

Step 2: Align the tilt table and make a cut on scrap.  Check the fit on the model.  Adjust the tilt table as necessary.  Make the cut on the form block.  Check the fit.

 

Step 3: Measure the frame bevel.  Repeat Step 2.

 

Step 4:  Clamp the frame to the form block and create the bevels on the frames with a file.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 13, 2021 by ERS Rich
Grammar, spelling

[ERS Rich]

Bow and Stern Block Prep
 

Busy this week on the bow and stern blocking.

 

Some unexpected results, while making the bevel cut template for outboard transom frames, led to checking the Byrnes and Micromark table saws, the jointer, and the Incra fence on the sawstop for square.  Adjustments were needed.

 

Also sharpened the 1” bench and fishtail chisels on the Tormec, so ready for carving. 

 

First off squared the rough blocking, with the jointer and table saw; and cut the necessary bow and stern filler blocks to finish size.

 

Templates were made by photocopying the plans.  A glue stick was used to fix them to index cards.

 

Blocks were marked up with the templates.  
 

Blocks were then cut on the bandsaw.  Since there are two cuts, piece was taped back together before the second cut.

Finally marked the blocks with contour intervals to prepare for carving.  
 

Next: carving/filing/sanding bow and stern filler blocks to final shape, using the contour templates.

 

 

 

 

Edited February 13, 2021 by ERS Rich

[WalrusGuy]

The start looks very good! Looking forward to see how she progresses! 

[ERS Rich]

Shaping the Bow Filler Block and Fairing the Bulkheads
 

Friday already!

 

At this time work progressing on multiple related fronts: beveling the frames (to get the lines for the blocking), testing different ways to shape the blocks, and templating and making the bow gundeck framing.  Also inventory/segregating the stock lumber in the kit.

 

Using sanding blocks by Dowl-It to shape the bevels.  The rounded blocks give tight control.  Quick work.

 

Shaping the blocks with chisel, rasp (most effective), file, and Flexifiles.  Using contour templates to measure progress.  Pin nailed temporary blocks to the block to allow holding in the vise.  Nails did get in the way so removed them.  Getting through the first piece is time consuming, the remaining three should go faster.

 

First time shaping multiple blocks, so deciding on and establishing my methodology, for future reuse.

 

Same with making the bow framing.  Initial thought was to use a single template to mark the lumber, but the pencil line would increase the size of the part, so going with double sided tape to attach individual templates.

Goal is to have all blocks installed by Monday.  
 

Have a good weekend!

 

-Rich

 

 

 

 

Edited March 3, 2021 by ERS Rich
Grammar, punctuation

[ERS Rich]

Notes on this work
 

Bevels: Aim to leave the brown laser residue on one edge, to retain the shape of the frame.
 

Shaping blocks.  Remove large flat chips of waste with the chisel, leaving small flat faces (facets).  Next is the powerful rasp, excellent for smoothing the facets, removing large amounts of wood vs the file, and shaping along lines.  Leave the file for final smoothing.  I abandoned the sandpaper.  

 

 

Edited March 3, 2021 by ERS Rich

[GuntherMT]

Not sure if it's better or not, but when I am fairing the frames I generally try to fair/bevel them right to the point where no laser char is visible at all.

 

You want to make sure to be fairing with a sanding block that will stretch across at least 2 bulkheads at once, and preferably a fairly stiff block so it doesn't "round" the angle.

[ERS Rich]

Hi Gunther,

 

Yes, find I need to be careful about rounding the bevel.  Will be on the lookout to address that during the planking task.  Sometimes I get a little carried away with it.  I think of that residue like a pencil line....need to keep the line or you may not know where you are.

 

Really enjoy the sanding blocks by Dowl-It.
 

Thanks for the comment.

 

Procrastinating this weekend, need to get to it!

 

Enjoy the rest of the weekend.

 

-Rich

 

[ERS Rich]

Shaping the Filler Blocks (continued)
 

Hanging out with the blocks and rasp this afternoon.  First time through this part and taking my time.  Rasping in the “downhill” direction.  Helps to have the board clamped and protruding off the bench.

 

 

Edited February 13, 2021 by ERS Rich

[ERS Rich]

Still making the stern blocks!  Thinking of updating this project weekly.....

[GuntherMT]

4 hours ago, ERS Rich said:

Still making the stern blocks!  Thinking of updating this project weekly.....

 

Just update it whenever you want, that's what most people do.  I've updated build logs a day apart when I made something interesting, and I've waited a week or more between updates depending on what was going on.  It's your log, you make the rules.

[ERS Rich]

Shaping the Filler Blocks (continued)

 

Thanks Gunther.  Work part time, in the shop daily, this week the part time work needed much more time.  Here’s the update.....

 

Kaboom!  
 

Have been checking the work against Bulkhead R and the bearding line template but not the counter.  And somehow the side going against the counter is way out!  
 

First time making a block of this shape and naively thought I could knock it out quickly.  
 

Picture shows the stern blocks sitting on the counter template.  Wood should be covering the white areas.

 

And I thought I was getting the hang of it!  
 

No worries, starting the stern blocks over......always something to learn!

 

This time will try doweling a small block onto the rough block, so it can be held in the vise while working.

 

Have a good weekend!
 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 13, 2021 by ERS Rich
Spelling

[ERS Rich]

Shaping the Filler Blocks (continued)

 

Ok, lined up to go at it again.

 

Needed to mill up material for the rough blocks.  A 10’ board was purchased years ago, can’t remember the species.

 

Mill process is cut to length - 2 feet, square 2 faces with the joiner, thickness plane, then square last face with the table saw.

 

Slice a 1 1/8” wide board from the piece on the table saw , then cut 2, 6” lengths from that board , cut each 6” length into 2 pieces, make each piece  2 7/8” long by 2 3/8” pieces.

 

Starting with 2 sets of blocks.  All marked up ready to go.  Thinking of hand carving one set and power carving the other with the Foredom.

 

 

 

Edited February 13, 2021 by ERS Rich

[GuntherMT]

Nice.. wish I had a shop full of full-sized wood tools like that!

[ERS Rich]

Thanks Gunter.  

Setup for cabinet making, had a closet cabinet making business for about 5 years....

 

And an understanding wife!

 

[ERS Rich]

Shaping the Filler Blocks (continued), Starting Bow Framing

 

This week spent time understanding how to make the stern filler blocks using the contour templates. Started on the bow framing.

 

Filler Blocks:

 

Found a board with the contour heights marked, as parallel lines, was a time saver.  Index the block along the board edge, and slide the template along the line to contact the block.

 

Shaped the block by working the midline shoulder between the bearding and bulkhead R lines.  Kept rounding the shoulder and stayed away from the edges.  Worked up to the bulkhead R and bearding line edges last.

 

Bow Framing:

 

Found notching the topside of the bow block, end grain, difficult.  Used a Tamiya mini saw for the notch side cuts.  Would do this job next time before installing the bow filler block.  Used a brass bar to compress the fibers in the notches, port side done in the picture.

 

Made the spar deck rail, attached template with double sided tape, found reside hard to remove, going with graphite paper tracing going forward.  Also relearned you need a hardwood board under the chisel to prevent tear out.

 

Used the Foredom drill press to make relief holes in the waste areas on the spar deck rail, to make it easier to remove the remaining waste with a chisel.  Gentle chisel cuts needed, with the grain direction, tabs easily break off.

 

Have a good weekend.

 

 

Edited February 13, 2021 by ERS Rich
Grammar, added a pic

[ERS Rich]

Bow Framing (continued)
 

Regarding cutting the notches.....

 

Plunge cut with two types of Xacto blades.
 

Define the side and rear faces, then slice along the bottom face.  Lift after slicing, fibers will pop out.

 

New blades essential.

 

 

Edited February 13, 2021 by ERS Rich

[ERS Rich]

While processing the wood for the bow framing timbers the Bandsaw died.....drive belt shredded.....  

 

Lucky to be able to get a new belt for this Craftsman machine....belt should be here week after next....

 

Shifting to completing the Amati Endeavor racing yacht...

 

 

Edited January 24, 2021 by ERS Rich
Spelling, grammar

[ERS Rich]

Bow Framing Completion
 

Hello, hope you had a good week.  This week band saw up and running, with a new drive belt.  And completed the bow framing.  
 

Learned that beveling the timbers was very important and the best way to cut them is with a sharp fishtail chisel.  No better way to get, small shavings, cut to the lines, and make a flat bevel.

 

Alignment is important to me, so after manufacturing the timbers and the spar deck rail, used planks clamped to the deck framing to locate the spar deck rail ends at bulkhead A and the stem.

 

To support the spar deck rail, small blocks were used to provide ledge points on bulkhead A and the aft end of the stem.  
 

The remaining work was straight forward, final shaping and installation of the timbers, and stringers.

 

A string around the bow was used to help with timber alignment.  Spacer blocks were used to ensure the correct spacing both between the timbers and, Port and Starboard.

 

A long piece of stringer board was wet under the faucet, steam bent, and clamped around the bow.  After drying and marking, this board was cut for the stringer pieces.

Finally the assembly was sanded and shaped with the flexi file.  
 

Next time around, would make the spar deck rail out of hardwood, like cherry, or plywood.  Pine works, but inevitably some of the edges of tabs between timbers flake off because of the grain direction.

 

 

 

 

Edited February 13, 2021 by ERS Rich
Add content, grammer

[ERS Rich]

Transom Frame Installation 
 

Installed the stern transom framing this week.  
 

I like to use spacer blocks for this type of job.  Setup the Byrnes saw with the sliding table.  Used steel rule and square to set the fence.

 

Make sure all is square, counter with bulkhead R, and frames with counter and bulkhead R.

 

Installed the outer frames first.  After installation found that bottom after frame spacing was on, while the top tips were closer than expected.  Will need to remove a center section of the laser cut stern top rail, picture shows it overhanging the transom frame tops.
 

Result was the spacing between the inner frames needed to be reduced.  Prior to installing, padded the deck and bulkhead R sides of the inner frames with strip wood, so height matched the deck and the aft side was flush with the counter block.

 

Straight forward after that, clamp spacer blocks, and install the frames.

 

Onward to the waterway and beyond.....

 

Have a great week....

 

 

 

 

Edited February 13, 2021 by ERS Rich