18th c Ships boats by Blue Ensign – FINISHED - Vanguard Models -1:64

[Blue Ensign]

An 18ft cutter- a little filler between projects.

 

 

One can always find a use for a ships boat and this 1:64 scale offering by Chris Watton of Vanguard models, fits the bill.

 

As I’m in-between builds I thought this bijou kit would fill a few hours, and according to Mrs W stop me over fixating on the Bathroom conversion due to start next Monday.

 

I am well served with ships boats in my shipyard.

 

This 1:48 scale Model shipways offering of a Longboat.

A fine little kit in my opinion, along with the Pinnace kit at 1:24.

 

 

And this scratched 1:64 scale Boxwood version.

 

055

This was made for my Pegasus build using down sized plans from the Model shipways 1:48 scale Longboat kit.

 

 

There are differences between Longboats and cutters, in terms of size and form, a major difference being that cutters were often Lapstraked rather than carvel built.

 

I think Chris originally designed it as an accessory for his Speedy/Flirt kits, so I’ve included it in the 1751-1800 era section, but this style of boat would suit many eras.

 

When I bought this kit I didn’t really have anything specific in mind but it could be used as a boat for Alert, or equally for a  large fishing boat, depending how it is dressed.

 

The mini kit comes with Pearwood planking, brass etched and Pearwood fittings.

 

9645

Not much to it is there, but that doesn’t mean it will be easy.

 

9639

The frames slot into a building board and over this the hull is planked.

 

9643(2)

One of the bow planking patterns that require bevelling before fitting. These are tiny pieces to hold, I used a Tool maker’s clamp.

 

9650(2)

If you don’t have one they are a worthwhile addition to your toolbox.

 

 

So with the jig/frames set up I need to decide whether to go off piste and Lapstrake her in Boxwood, or use the nice little Pearwood strips provided, and follow the carvel route.

 

 

B.E.

02/01/2021

[VTHokiEE]

5 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

I need to decide whether to go off piste and Lapstrake her in Boxwood, or use the nice little Pearwood strips provided, and follow the carvel route.

From my following of your work I’m curious - when faced with this decision how often have you stayed on piste?

 

Looking forward to this. I was (am?) tempted to get one of these or similar and potentially have it trailing behind my Alert in the final display.

Edited January 2, 2021 by VTHokiEE

[Blue Ensign]

I think you may have got me there Tim, 😃

 

I don't think anyone else has charted building one of these, so it may assist others , providing I make a success of it.

ps it would look good trailing behind Alert. 👍

 

B.E.

[VTHokiEE]

With your build log to follow I simply couldn’t resist I ordered one... 😁

[Blue Ensign]

I had better hope it goes well then Tim 😉

 

Post 2

A little fairing is required to the bulkhead frames, which with this method of construction are held firmly on the building board.

 

This is small scale stuff; the boat is a mere 80mm long but at least the base board provides a reasonable purchase to work on the frames.

 

I have also added a grip to the bottom of the building board to secure in the vice.

 

9692(2)

My first action is to make some suitable sanding sticks to carry out the task. I am using P240 paper pva’d to strips of varying widths.

 

9653(2)

9690(2)

Once fitted the bow fillers need further chamfering to meet the plank rabbet in the bow.

Planking

 

The kit provides 2x1mm Pearwood Strip for the purpose of carvel planking. It is a simplified form with some tapering and allowing the strakes to sit where they run and infilled with stealers.

 

I have decided to Clinker plank her with 0.7mm thick Boxwood strip.

 

This means that the planking will start from the keel and run upwards to the gunwale.

 

Despite my aversion to the stuff I will use thick ca to apply the planks given the small width and length of the strakes, and the need for a rapid grab.

 

I start with the Garboard plank using 3.4 x 0.7mm strip.

 

9688

Garboards are tricky and I have shaped it purely by eye, bringing the forward point terminating on the first bulkhead.

 

9695

The boat is dwarfed by the clamps.

 

9697(2)

Garboard planks in place.

 

From this point on I will use card templates to determine the run and overlap of the planks.

 

 

B.E.

04/01/21

Edited January 4, 2021 by Blue Ensign

[Blue Ensign]

Post three.

 

 I have continued to apply the planks, tapering and heat forming to shape the strakes.

 

I decided for me that any thoughts of using a tick stripping method to gauge the run was not going to work given the small size, even the thickness of a pencil point would quickly throw it out.

 

9705

A degree of edge bend was required to fit the first planks against the Garboard.

9707

I use the provided 2mm Pearwood strip to mark the overlap, and applied a simple taper to bow and stern.

9711(2)

9708(2)

Still no idea how it’s all going to end up, what d’ye think Gromit.

 

9714

RUFF

Give it a chance Gromit, it should get better. 🤞 🤞 🙄

 

 

 

 

B.E.

06/01/21

 

 

Edited January 6, 2021 by Blue Ensign

[James H]

I'm having déjà vu here as I'm about to finish the first three of NINE different 1:64 boats for Chris.

 

With this one you're building, I didn't go for clinker planking simply because I only had one set of parts and didn't want to screw it up 😆

[Blue Ensign]

Probably a wise decision, carvel is relatively straightforward, this is making it up as you go along.🙄

 

B.E.

Edited January 6, 2021 by Blue Ensign

[Blue Ensign]

Post Four

The planking is completed, it’s Lapstrake Jim, but not as we know it.

Pictured here in its rough finish once fettled I hope it will at least look the part from normal viewing distance.

9732(2)

9736

Before removal from the building board.

 

9746

The boat is released by inverting the base board in a vice and gently tapping the lugs.

9750

9751

Before I remove the frames, I will attend to getting the outer hull as ship shape as I can.

B.E.

09/01/21

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Five

A problem area arose at the transom relating to the fact that the Lapstrake planking refused to make a good fit to the kit part.

9753

This necessitated the kit part being removed and replaced by a Boxwood version.

 

9754

A fair bit of trial and error to get it to fit anywhere near right but got there in the end.

The next job is to remove the internal frames, but I felt very chary about using the suggested twist approach.

9756

However, having cut the central bar and tentatively tested the twist I found that they came away without damage to the outer planking.

 

9766

Some tidying up inside, but the fittings will cover a lot of the internal planking.

 

9762

Starting to fine down the Lapstrakes towards the bow and stern, the strakes will be cleaned up using fine sandpaper.

9760

More fettlin’ required on the replaced transom and fining down of the Lapstrakes.

 

B.E.

10/01/21

[Blue Ensign]

Post Six

Internal fittings

The kit provides brass etched gratings and bottom boards which are beautifully reproduced and of a finer scale than I could possibly produce using timber strip.

 

9777

Having thoroughly cleaned the brass using soap, acid, and fine wire wool the parts were chemically blackened to provide some bite for the finish.

 

9778

The next job is to apply the internal ribs to the hull which run down from the gunwale to meet the bottom boards and gratings.

My view is that there are too few ribs indicated in the kit so I fitted one against each of the frame bottoms and one in between.

 

Using etched bottom boards raises the question of getting a realistic natural wood look.

9786

I laid down a base coat of Humbrol enamel (No93)

 

9783

A dry fit of the parts confirms an excellent fit, no filing or fiddling required here.

 

As I arrive at this point I read that this little kit has been withdrawn from service, presumably ahead of something better in the offing to match the just released small boat kits.

No matter we will carry on regardless, but that Yawl kit does look rather tasty. 😉

 

B.E.

11/01/21

[Blue Ensign]

Post Seven

A question of rudders

 

I am not too keen on the rudder arrangement whereby a formed Pearwood carcase is faced by brass etch which albeit contains the details of the rudder straps.

 

9788(3)

I replaced this with rudder cut from a 1.3mm Boxwood sheet offcut.

9800(2)

The rudders of Cutters and other small boats had a different arrangement to the usual gudgeon and pintles set up.

Rudder fitting on one of the Victory’s cutters. Note also the tiller fitting.

 

The lower pintle was fitted to the sternpost, it was longer than usual for ease of location. The upper one was fitted to the rudder.

This arrangement was to facilitate ease of removal and re hanging whilst the boat was in the water.

 

9795(2)

On the model a small eyebolt with 0.35mm ø brass wire silver soldered into it made for the pintles, and eyebolts for the gudgeons.

 

9803

Rudder hung but not finished.

 

Finishing the bottom boards.

 

Having given the etch a base coat of Humbrol 93 I applied a thin streaky coat of Humbrol 94, followed by a dry bushing of sand yellow weathering powder.

They were then glued into to the boat using spots of ca. The surface took a little wear during the fitting process and this will need fettlin’ once the rails are fitted.

 

9813

The internal rails that support the thwarts and provide some rigidity were made from 2mm x 0.7mm strip. These were pva’d to the ribs 3mm below the bulwark.

9817

I always find this a tricky little exercise getting the rails level each side, and I use temporary thwarts to eye along the boat.

When it came to fitting the stern sheets the pre-made parts were not a good fit to my hull.

9828(2)

In the end I decided that 1mm thick thwarts were a tad overscale and I replaced them with Boxwood strip of 0.7mm.

9826(2)

I asked my Fifie Skipper to test the thwarts for height and level.

The wash boards have yet to be fitted.

 

B.E.

14/01/21

Edited January 14, 2021 by Blue Ensign

[Richard44]

Hi B.E.

 

Your boat  is looking really good. I'll have an update on my build soon. Like you though, the stern sheets didn't quite fit my hull, and I'm now trying to correct for this. About the rudder. The rudder/tiller is one piece and when I did a dry fit of it against the hull I found that the tiller does not quite clear the transom. The easy solution of course is to round down the transom. In the photo, your new rudder looks taller than the original.  I don't yet know though whether I'll modify/re-do the rudder similarly to what you're doing.

 

I'll complete my build and log even though the kit has been superseded.

 

Cheers

[Blue Ensign]

Hi Richard,

The boat looks ok from about six-inch viewing, even better from 12”; 😉 the macro lens is brutal, but it will allow me to clean up some of the rougher spots.

I’ve yet to finish the rudder which I have left long for final fitting.

I think Chris was right to withdraw this mini kit, it is not up to the standard of his newly released boat sets, presumably he will eventually add a new cutter to the set.

 

B.E.

[Rik Thistle]

Hi BE,

 

The little boat is looking very good...I've got one in my Flirt kit so your build is timely and useful.

 

A question on vices, if I may...

 

I'm looking for a small (100mm x 80mm vaguely), free standing, weighty, non-suction, single thumbwheel screw for closing the jaws, quick to deploy vice. I'd also like the jaws to be reasonably square and  flat.

 

It will be used for quickly gripping small items, with the vice held by one hand and the tool in the other hand.

 

I already have a Stanley ...   https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001HBS0I0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1    which is very good but large'ish and needs taking out of the drawer and screwing to the edge of the bench ie slow to deploy

 

The other vice I use is  .... https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B089K4LFR8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which is almost ideal in size and weight and deployment speed but very poorly made eg the jaws are sloppy and they have a 2mm chamfer on their top edge (eh?)       

 

I notice in your pics you alternate mostly between two bench vices - a Proxxon and a die cast (?) bench-drill one ... I'm assuming one has a larger jaw opening and the Proxxon (with it's suction cap) allows larger forces to be used on the work part? 

 

So, to the question....I'm curious as to the make etc of the die cast one you use and if you'd recommend similar?

 

I've not done any research yet myself but seeing your pics reminded me this was on my To Do List and that I need to get on it😉

 

Regards,

 

Richard

 

Edit: This (although a bit pricey) might do the trick ...  Proxxon 24260 Bench Vice
https://www.amazon.co.uk/PROXXON-24260-Proxxon-Bench-Vice/dp/B000S8HPLG/ref=pd_all_pref_5?pd_rd_w=5xuwm&pf_rd_p=0b287dfd-17bb-473b-878d-27964fab82e6&pf_rd_r=4R1ASHNX0PY839T00QTV&pd_rd_r=24828407-f4db-43c5-b2da-554bed2880e5&pd_rd_wg=qQkRp&pd_rd_i=B000S8HPLG&psc=1

 

I'll leave it at that since I don't want to hijack this thread 😉

 

Edited January 15, 2021 by Rik Thistle

[Blue Ensign]

Hi Richard,

I can’t for the life of me remember where I got the non Proxxon vice. It opens to 65mm and jaws are 75mm wide.

A quick online check shows a few that look like it.

The Proxxon has the same jaw dimensions but has the advantage of extra height and the angle swivel, very useful  when working on small projects such as this cutter.

The Proxxon is quite heavy and I’ve never felt the need to fasten it down.

The Proxxon 24260 Bench Vice you mention last I do have, it is much smaller and designed to fit on the MF70 Mill where I use it exclusively.

 For hand holding small stuff I tend to use an engineers clamp as shown in my first post.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[bruce d]

Is this vice about the right size?

https://www.hobbies.co.uk/tools/power-tools/unimat-tools-steel-milling-vice

 

This original Unimat vice is my go-to:

 

... and go-to number two:

https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=vice&PN=75mm-Tilting-Machine-Vice-09234968.html#SID=356

 

I have too many vices.

 

[Rik Thistle]

I have too many vices.   😉   I used to! ...those were happy days.

 

Bruce, thanks for the vice info - only thing is that that handle is long and needs 'pushing through' every 180 deg turn....that's why a thumbwheel type handle is preferred for my application.  Anyway, I think I've now got enough to go on.

 

Thanks again,

 

Richard

 

 

[bruce d]

22 minutes ago, Rik Thistle said:

handle is long and needs 'pushing through' every 180 deg turn..

One of my Unimat vices has the sliding handle removed. I have found that there is enough grip on the knurled piece to allow tightening wood for milling by finger-grip. On one occasion when holding brass I gave an extra 'oomph' to the grip by using an improvised tommy bar but it probably was overkill.

[Blue Ensign]

Post Eight

 

Sheer strakes, Gunwales and Washboards.

 

These terms can be a little confusing in relation to cutters.

 

David White- The Frigate Diana describes the upper strake as the Wash Strake and below this the Upper Strake. The Gun wale is shown as running inside the framing.

 

Peter Goodwin – The Cutter Alert describes the upper strake as the Gunwale (wash strake) and below this the sheer strake.

 

Brian Lavery – Arming and Fitting describes the upper strake as a thicker piece of timber known as the Gunwale, fitted with thole pins or rowlocks. After the mid-eighteenth century a removeable wash- strake was fitted on many boats, above the gunwale.

 

For the purposes of my build I will use the terms Gunwale and Wash strake.

 

Gunwale

9872

I used 0.7mm x 1.8mm ebony strip for the purpose, ca’d level with the top of the bulwark.

 

Wash-strake

 

These are likely to prove tricky to fit because there is little effectively to support them inboard.

9863(2)

The knees that fit to the thwarts should run up to the top of the Wash strake, which they don’t on my build unless they are fitted with the long end upwards which I did as I couldn’t face making replacements of these tiny items.

 

9864(2)

With this arrangement there will be support for the Wash-boards but before these are fitted it is necessary to consider the Rowlock positions.

 

The kit seems to indicate three sets of rowlocks serving the forward three thwarts. This would suggest that it is set up for double banked rowing, and the oar length would support this

There is a plan for an 18’ cutter in the Cutter Alert book showing this set up.

 

However, there are plans indicating offset rowlocks for 18’ cutters which would indicate a single bank arrangement.

There is a plan for an 18’ cutter in the Frigate Diana book (David White) which has this arrangement.

 

I am using 1.7mm x 0.7mm Boxwood strip for the wash strakes.

The strakes need to be heat bent to fit atop the bulwark without tension which will greatly assist a successful result.

 

The kit blurb suggests gluing strips of wood along the bulwark leaving 1mm gaps for the Rowlocks.

9880

My approach is to fit the strake as a whole which has the advantage of maintaining a better round to follow the hull.

I used spots of ca on the brackets and the strip to secure the strake.

9879(2)

A micro-saw is then used to cut the rowlocks. I use an Airwaves etched stainless steel saw blade that has incredibly fine teeth and fits into a Swann Morten scalpel blade.

Anything coarser would inevitably break the glue bond or the wood strip.

9887(2)

This finishes the basic construction, but the macro’s I took show up areas requiring further cleaning up before the final finish is applied.

 

B.E.

17/01/21

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Nine

 

 

 

Faffing and fiddling to the finish line

 

 

The rudder is completed with straps and the tiller and can now be set in place.

 

9919(2)

I used thin black card for the purposes of the straps.

 

 

I decided to make the oars using Boxwood as the brass etched versions lacked the looms, and you can’t get away from the two-dimensional aspect of brass etch.

 

9943(2)

The kit supplies two sweet little etched grappling hooks, I silver soldered the arms rather than use ca which would have been detrimental to the blackening process.

 

The boat hook was fitted in a Boxwood handle rather than use the etched version.

 

The grapnel as provided by the kit lacks the benefit of a ring, easily rectified, which is needed to attach the classic Fisherman's Bend hitch for small anchors, where the line needs to pass twice thro' the ring.

 

Steel gives a grapnel rope circ for ships boats as 3"-3½"

I used .30mm ø line for the purpose.

 

9944(2)

The completed set.

 

9927(2)

Wipe-on-poly is used to enhance the natural colour of the timbers, I decided not to use paint on the model.

 

9928(2)

It was necessary to use Light oak wood stain on the keel, which would still have been the case had I used the supplied Pearwood.

 

9930(2)

9932(2)

An enjoyable little interlude to occupy myself during the Bathroom re-fit which looks to continue for a few days more.

 

9949

A better appreciation of the relative size of this bijou build, I think it will be a cutter for a cutter and join Alert in her display case.

 

As I finish this project Chris has issued his replacement, enhanced, 18’ cutter.

Having a Pearwood keel is a good improvement and the use of thinner 0.6mm strip is more scale appropriate. The build sequence is also more logical and I like the inclusion of Pearwood oars, something else I feel is preferable.

 

 

I have decided to rename this log as 18^th c ships boats – 1:64 scale - Vanguard Models, as today I received another of Chris’s little gems, this time the 22’ Yawl.

 

 

 

This build will continue in this section.

 

 

B.E.

19/01/21

Edited January 19, 2021 by Blue Ensign

[VTHokiEE]

Great job BE! I'll be using this log when I get to mine (of course now I wish I waited for the re-release so I didn't have to scratch the oars and potentially the rudder, but they should be fun exercises).

 

Edit: Do you mind sharing your source for the Airwaves etched stainless steel saw blades? Thanks!

Edited January 19, 2021 by VTHokiEE

[Blue Ensign]

Hi Tim,

 

The etched saw blades seem to be  available from  a few sources on the net if you google them.

I got mine from here 

https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/AEM008

 

There is also a youtube review comparing the airwaves with Tamiya, I've not tried the Tamiya version

 

 

I find them most useful for cross grain cutting on thin timber strips.

 

B.E.

[shipman]

I ordered the Airwaves saws (off ebay - cheaper than Hannants) before you posted the video above.

The guy didn't mention prices; I imagine the Tamiya product is the dearest choice.

From what I could see, the flexibility of the Tamiya blade made me wonder how long it would last before it folded and removed a finger.

The choice I made should deal with any reasonable job I could throw it at

[bruce d]

1 hour ago, shipman said:

the flexibility of the Tamiya blade made me wonder how long it would last

The Tamiya blades are superb for scribing plastic, as used in the video, but are not really intended for wood IMO. I found the Airwaves better for wood because it behaved more like a saw while the finer-toothed Tamiya clogged and wandered. It just wasn't intended to cut through wood.

Having said that, I will try my hand at some small carving soon and expect that somewhere in the adventure I will reach for all the etched saws/scribers just to see what happens.

[chris watton]

3 minutes ago, bruce d said:

The Tamiya blades are superb for scribing plastic, as used in the video, but are not really intended for wood IMO. I found the Airwaves better for wood because it behaved more like a saw while the finer-toothed Tamiya clogged and wandered. It just wasn't intended to cut through wood.

Having said that, I will try my hand at some small carving soon and expect that somewhere in the adventure I will reach for all the etched saws/scribers just to see what happens.

I designed some fine saws for PE for Amati a while back, but they decided not to go ahead. The problem with PE saw blades is that the teeth are not 'splayed' out at the sides like 'real' saw blades, which makes sawing easy and reduces clogging (they are very sharp though, as the MD of Amati almost cut his finger off when trying out one of my saw blades when it slipped...). They would have been fine for anything 3mm and thinner, I think.

[shipman]

Chris, I can't imagine why Amati didn't go for your saws, considering their MD nearly lost a limb.

Management are used to making cuts 🤓

[bruce d]

15 minutes ago, shipman said:

Management are used to making cuts 🤓

 

Groaaannnn....

[Blue Ensign]

Building a 22’ Yawl.

 

I was pleased to see that Chris had extended his range of ships boats to cover almost everything that the builder of 1:64 scale 18thc ships could want.

The only possible exception is a Longboat.

 

Yawl as built by James Hatch.

I was instantly drawn to the Yawl, a boat type I have not built, and this mini kit looked too good to pass.

 

9953(2)

Here’s the makings for this mini kit.

The first thing I notice is the inclusion of all Pearwood for the  keel parts and planking and the much reduced thickness of the timbers to better reflect scale. The build board and sacrificial bulkheads are of PDF.

 

The usual etched gratings and bottom boards are similar to the old cutter kit, but as with that kit I don’t think I will use the  rudder covers.

A set of Pearwood oars are provided in addition to the brass etched versions. These are very fine but provide a good template to build up the looms.

 

 

A little history about Yawls.

 

This boat type was developed at Deal on the Kent coast and was traditionally clinker built. The Yawl became part of the Navy boat establishment in 1701 but its form developed over the succeeding years.

 

In terms of naval use, both clinker and carvel planked versions were in operation at various periods and concurrently during the 18^th century, but the Navy had a preference for carvel-built boats, and Yawls built in Naval Dockyards took this form.

 

The strength and lightness of clinker boats were often favoured by ship Captains, but the drawback to Clinker built boats was difficulty of repair compared with carvel-built boats, and the Navy only issued carvel versions to ships destined for foreign service.

 

The kit represents a carvel version as built in a naval yard rather than a private yard where clinker would prevail

 

For this build I am going to follow the carvel route.

 

Looking ahead I have a fancy to mast and rig my version.

 

First steps.

 

The first thing that is instantly apparent with this kit is the fragility of the parts, very soft hands will be required at least in the early stages of the assembly.

 

9965

Even so, in the process of fitting the forward bulkheads and filler pieces, I managed with the slightest touch to snap off the upper part of the stem which contains the rabbet.

This is not a criticism of the kit which by its scale nature requires fine parts.

 

9968

So, first stages comes to a shuddering halt whilst I wait for the Aliphatic resin to hopefully secure the now re-attached stem head.

 

9967

However, until the boat is secured on its board I will live in fear of the Pearwood keel snapping.

 

 

B.E.

20/01/21

 

 

Edited January 20, 2021 by Blue Ensign

[Beef Wellington]

Glad to see you have taken these on, can fully appreciate the fiddle factor but you seem quite the old hand on these smaller boats.  I agree there has been a huge gap in the market for these high quality minikits, these seem like a great upgrade to the older kit supplied options.