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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Progress is still gradual but at least it's still progress.  There are just so many deck fittings!

 

One of the first things I done is to start fitting some of the many chains.  First of all there was the anchor chains.  These run from the area under the forecastle, wind around the windlass, then run to the chain pipe on the main deck.  This sounds easy to achieve, and I guess in principle it is.  However, as I had just spent the previous week fitting other deck fittings to the deck under the forecastle it made the job so fiddly.  To be fair there isn't really any other option but to do it in this order.  The difficult bit is getting the chain right into the forecastle and then getting the CA glue onto the end of it.  I ended up using a length of 1mm brass rod from the kit which I bent over the end by 2mm to form a small hook.  I then used this to push the chain into position.  Then keeping everything steady I applied the CA glue using a very long applicator, kept everything still for a few minutes and hopped for the best.  It worked well much to my relief.  Not sure what I would have done without the long CA applicator tube.  Once the glue was set, wrapping the chain around the windlass and gluing it to the deck was very straightforward.  Once set, the chain pipe is fitted in place.

 

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Some other chains I've fitted are the bumpkin backstay chains, 'What are they!' I hear you cry.  Well apparently they are.....  probably easier to look here:  Bumpkin link

 

It's not crystal clear from the instructions just where and how these are fitted but after some research on other build logs and watching the Occre video of the build on YouTube I think I've achieved something which looks acceptable.

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I've also finished off fitting the structures to the rear of the ship.  These are the two companionways for the captains cabin and the mess room.  Also the ships wheel was fitted.  I have decided not to fit the sounding winch, compass and the four davits just yet as I feel they may be vulnerable during fitting the rigging.  Hopefully they should be easy to fit once the rigging is completed.

 

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In the following photo the rowing boat is just placed on the deck supports for effect.  It's not yet fixed down, again so it doesn't imped access during rigging.  I just hope once the rigging is completed I'll still be able to get the boat back in and be able to strap it to the deck.  I'll have to keep an eye on the progress and make a judgment as to when is best to secure it in position.

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I've also spent some time working on the other three small boats.  I started working on these much earlier in the build but never finished building them.  I've got to the stage where they are now planked and I'm working on the fittings.  In the instructions it shows them being stained but I'm not overly happy with that so I've decided to paint them, like the one in the photo above on the main deck.  Not sure if this is accurate to the time but I feel it would have been.  I would be interested in hearing anyone's opinion on this.

 

 

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You may have noticed that two of these three boats are very similar.  If you are building this kit my advice would be to either just make one of these at a time or cut out the parts and keep them in separate containers as some of the parts are very similar but not identical.  Working out which bits go with which boat can be a challenge. 

 

So until the next time......

 

Chimp

Current Build: ....

 

Previous Builds: HMS Beagle - OcCre,   HM Schooner Ballahoo - Caldercraft

Posted
25 minutes ago, Prowler901 said:

Thanks for the link to the rope walk.

 

The boats look really good. At this point I can't imagine planking something that small. Great advice on keeping the parts separated.

 

Todd

Many thanks for your comment Prowler. Let me know how you get on with the ropewalk if you decide to make one.

 

Chimp

Current Build: ....

 

Previous Builds: HMS Beagle - OcCre,   HM Schooner Ballahoo - Caldercraft

Posted

Thanks for sharing the photos, your workmanship is really very neat and clean.  I realize it is not your doing, but the kit itself does seem to have some interesting substitutes for reality.

 

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Posted
13 hours ago, allanyed said:

Thanks for sharing the photos, your workmanship is really very neat and clean.  I realize it is not your doing, but the kit itself does seem to have some interesting substitutes for reality.

 

Allan

Hi Allan,

 

Thanks for your comment.  Regarding the kit, I'm finding there's quite a few 'substitutes for reality'.  I'm now of the opinion that cheapness of kit is a false economy, especially when you consider your investment in terms of time spent building the kit.  However, having said that it's been a useful learning experience.  I don't think I could scratch build so I'll have to stick with kits.  I already have my next build waiting, Caldercraft's HMS Granado.  I'm determined to finish the Beagle before I make a start on that one.

 

Chimp

Current Build: ....

 

Previous Builds: HMS Beagle - OcCre,   HM Schooner Ballahoo - Caldercraft

Posted

Stick with it Chimp.   If not scratch, there is always kit bashing to make things to your liking.   Enjoy the Granado build as well.    Looking at the various kits here at MSW, looks like Vanguard has their act together more than some others so maybe something to consider in the future.

No matter anything else, have fun!!

Allan

 

 

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

There's been a small amount of progress since the last update.  I've been working on the small boats.  Progress is slow and steady.

 

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I've also started to work on the main mast.  The first job after cutting the lower main mast section was to shape the top tenon to ensure the main mast cap sits at the correct angle (horizontal).  I thought this was going to be difficult and may need a few attempts.  As it was it was quite easy.  I guess I got lucky and did it right first time.

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Then I've assembled a selection of parts and stained them ready for assembly.

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I know I'm not a quick builder but I now feel I'm getting back into the swing of things. :)   Completing the masts will then take me into the process which I'm not looking forward to.... the rigging.  Maybe I should try and make the most of this last bit of the build.

Chimp

Current Build: ....

 

Previous Builds: HMS Beagle - OcCre,   HM Schooner Ballahoo - Caldercraft

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

More progress.

The parts which I had stained in the last post have now been assembled.  This now forms the lower section of the main mast.

 

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There weren't any major issues here, just the need to make sure everything is true and aligned and at the correct angle remembering that the main mast is angled back slightly and the platform needs to sit horizontal, so isn't at 90 degs to the mast.  Luckily the instructions have 1:1 drawings to align to. 

 

I then made the upper parts to the main mast.

 

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Next I started making the yards.

 

After tapering and staining each yard there is some cladding to be added to the centre section.  The instructions indicate this should be done using 1mm x 3mm limewood.  I'm not sure why but I'm running short of this size and it's clear there won't be enough to use it on all the yards.  Looking at other build logs this is a common problem.  However, I do have plenty of 2mm x 5mm limewood left over from the first planking.  So much that I could probably plank another hull, if not more.  So what I've done is to cut this to the desired lengths for the cladding then cut it down the centre and glued it side on to the mast, as shown in the next photo:

 

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Once the glue has dried I then gently trim the depth down to about 1mm (or less):

 

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Once both ends have been cut down I then fill any gaps with wood filler, leave to dry and sand flat.

 

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I'm happy with the result.  Using 2mm wide lengths gives a better coverage on the mast than the 1mm x 3mm would do.

 

Now it's on with the rest of the yards.....

 

Chimp

Current Build: ....

 

Previous Builds: HMS Beagle - OcCre,   HM Schooner Ballahoo - Caldercraft

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I've now started with the rigging, not my favourite part of the build but it's got to be done.  I was going to fit the yards to the masts as shown in the videos but thinking about it, I felt it would be easier fitting the shrouds and ratlines without the yards fitted and before the masts are fitted to the ship.  I might be wrong but I figured it would be easier having the mast sat in the vice rather that fitted to the ship.  I would be interested to hear what other people think.

 

I started on the foremast by fitting the futtock shrouds, which according to the AotS for the Beagle should be chains but OcCre don't supply enough chain for this and show 0.5mm thread.  Before I go any further I should state that I make my own rope using a 3D printed ropewalk, which I'm now getting quite proficient at.  I currently have 10 km of Gutermann Mara 100 polyester thread, so making rope isn't an issue for me.

 

After the futtock shrouds I fitted the fore topmast shrouds and deadeyes.  I then spaced the deadeye pairs using some 0.7mm brass wire.  This was to try and achieve a consistent spacing between the deadeye pairs.

 

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I know it looks a mess but none of the ends have been cut off.

 

After cutting the ends and lashing the deadeyes it looks a little better.

 

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Then I needed to progress with tying the ratlines.  This would be the first time I've done ratlines and was worrying about it taking so much time and effort to get the clove hitch right.  It was then I stumbled on a tutorial video on YouTube which explained everything and makes it so easy.  There video can be found here:

 

 

After tying a few lengths it was starting to take shape.

 

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By the time I was finished it wasn't looking too bad and to be honest, it didn't take too long (much to my relief). 

 

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I know I still have much to learn and there's still plenty of room for improvement, but after this little success I'm actually looking forward to progressing with the rigging!!  I'm hoping by the time I've finished this model I might have a clearer idea about what I should be doing.

 

Chimp

Current Build: ....

 

Previous Builds: HMS Beagle - OcCre,   HM Schooner Ballahoo - Caldercraft

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Here is the latest progress with the rigging.

 

After finishing tying the ratlines on the foremast I then moved onto the main mast.  This time rather than using 0.5mm thread to fix the deadeyes I thought I would change to 0.7mm brass wire, which I have plenty of.  I know this inconsistency may look a little odd but I don't think it will look too obvious on the finished model and I'm keen to try different things.  Always with a view to learning for the next model.  As far as I can tell the futtock iron and strap should be metal anyway.

 

I started by making up the deadeye straps using the brass wire:

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Everything worked well with the brass wire holding the deadeyes but I'm not sure the alignment of the pre-drilled holes in the mast top was quite right which meant the deadeyes and wire ended up at an angle which messed up the spacings a little.  Maybe if I had used thread there would have been a little more compliance but I don't think that would have changed the effect of the spacing of the deadeyes.

 

With the deadeyes fitted I continued rigging the topmast.

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As you can see from the photo above there is another issue with the pre-drilled holes in the mast tops.  The handrail clashes with the rigging.  I've just had a look at the plans and it looks like the holes for the handrails aren't pre-drilled, so I could have made them a bit shorter than shown in the instructions, which would have avoided the clash.....  be warned if you're looking to make this model.

 

So all that part of the rigging was done off the ship.  Then it was time to fit the masts to the ship.

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With the masts fitted and aligned it was then on with fitting the fore shrouds.

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Top ensure a consistent spacing of the deadeyes I made a pair of jigs to keep the deadeyes at a set distance.  I saw this on someone's build log the other week.  Sorry for not having their name to hand.  

 

With all the main mast shrouds fitted it was then back to tying the ratlines.

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At this rate I should have all the shrouds and ratlines finished in the next week or two, which I know is slower than most but I work on the principle of 'Slow but sure'.

 

Chimp

 

Current Build: ....

 

Previous Builds: HMS Beagle - OcCre,   HM Schooner Ballahoo - Caldercraft

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 7/30/2022 at 6:21 AM, Penfold said:

Hi Chimp,

She really is coming along nicely and looking a very fine ship.

Hi Penfold,

Many thanks for your kind words of encouragement.  I'm trying to keep focused but at the moment the progress is slow but at least it's steady.  It's about time I posted another update.

Chimp

Current Build: ....

 

Previous Builds: HMS Beagle - OcCre,   HM Schooner Ballahoo - Caldercraft

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I guess I'm long overdue for an update, so here it is.

 

I finished the ratlines on the foremast then moved onto the main and mizzen masts.  As you can imagine there's not much to say here as it's just a repeat of the fore mast.  I then fitted the backstays for the three masts.  This again is not the sequence shown in the instructions or the videos but I feel it's a more logical order.  

 

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I then decided the time was right to fit the bowsprit.  This was a big decision as with the bowsprit fitted it makes the ship too long to comfortably sit on my very restricted work top and would now be prone to getting damaged as I manipulate the model.  However, it has to be fitted at some point in time and now felt right.  The bowsprit had been made many months ago and was rigged using the kit supplied thread.  I've since discarded the kit thread and make my own rope as I wasn't happy with the quality.  Having said that I've decided to keep the original rigging of the bowsprit for now.  If it looks too much out of place I might decide to replace it.

 

With the bowsprit glued in place I fitted the gammoning which went well.

 

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I then made and fitted the three gaffs to the masts and the boom to the mizzen mast.  These were straightforward but a word of warning if fitting the mizzen gaff and boom after the mizzen shrouds and backstays.  Make sure you fit them pointing aft.  I know that sound obvious and it makes me look a fool, but I fitted them pointing forward, as it was easier to tie the thread around the mast.  I then realised even pointing them upwards they were both too long to spin around to point aft as they caught on the backstays.  I felt such a fool and had to cut them off and start again.

 

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I thought I would take a couple of photos of how she is now as I'm starting to feel I might be on the home run.

 

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Next I need to rig the bowsprit and finish the standing rigging.  With the winter months approaching I should get time to finish her off before the end of the year :) 

 

Regards

Chimp

 

 

 

Current Build: ....

 

Previous Builds: HMS Beagle - OcCre,   HM Schooner Ballahoo - Caldercraft

  • 3 months later...
Posted
On 1/3/2023 at 3:51 AM, Capella said:

So encouraged by your progress, Chimp! I'm waiting on my Beagle to arrive and have found there are PLENTY of logs for the ship here at MSW.

 

I've made several notes from your log. Keep up the good work!

Hi Capella,

 

Many thanks for the words of encouragement.  I'm currently a bit bogged down with other things and have lost my way a little with the build.  I found the rigging of the masts became a little onerous with conflicting and confusing instructions.  My intention is to restart the build very soon (New year and all that...).  I'm hoping to get it finished soon as I have another kit waiting to go and I don't want to have two kits on the go at the same time.

 

I'll be watching your build log with much interest :) 

 

Chimp 

Current Build: ....

 

Previous Builds: HMS Beagle - OcCre,   HM Schooner Ballahoo - Caldercraft

Posted
On 1/10/2021 at 10:13 AM, The Gimps Chimp said:

After leaving the spine to 'rest' for a couple of days to see if the bend returns, it looks like things are looking good.  There is a very slight bend but nothing to worry about, at least that's what I'm telling myself.  I've decided to progress with the build as is.  I've now added the reinforcing blocks to the bow and stern to aid planking.  I've marked out the deck with a 1-3-5-2-4 butt shift.  This seems to be the most sensible sequence as far as I can tell.  The kit instructions are indicating a 60mm plank length, which at 1/60 scale would equate to 11' 10" (12-foot).  Not sure if this is correct but it looks okay to me (but then I quite ignorant on these things).

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Hey, Chimp

 

I'm at this very stage now on my own Beagle and I'm wondering at what point(s), exactly, did you actually glue the bulkheads and deck?

 

My thinking is to:

1) dry-fit the bulkheads
2) dry-fit the PLANKED deck on to ensure proper alignment of the bulkheads since the bulkheads lock in to the notches in the deck

3) glue the bulkheads on to the keel only

4) glue the deck onto the bulkheads and keel

 

What are your thoughts/comments on this strategy? What steps, exactly, did you take in the above regards?

 

Thanks!

First build: US Ranger - Corel

 

Second build: HMS Beagle - OcCre

Posted
7 hours ago, Capella said:

Hey, Chimp

 

I'm at this very stage now on my own Beagle and I'm wondering at what point(s), exactly, did you actually glue the bulkheads and deck?

 

My thinking is to:

1) dry-fit the bulkheads
2) dry-fit the PLANKED deck on to ensure proper alignment of the bulkheads since the bulkheads lock in to the notches in the deck

3) glue the bulkheads on to the keel only

4) glue the deck onto the bulkheads and keel

 

What are your thoughts/comments on this strategy? What steps, exactly, did you take in the above regards?

 

Thanks!

Hi Capella,

 

I think the sequence you are suggesting makes sense.  From memory I recall my sequence being very similar:

 

1) Dry-fit bulkheads

2) Dry-fit UN-PLANKED deck

3) Glue bulkheads to keel

4) Plank deck

5) Glue PLANKED deck to bulkheads

 

To be honest It amounts to the same thing. 

 

What I think is important is that you plank the deck before gluing it to the bulkheads.  It will be so much easier to plank the deck on a flat surface rather than trying to plank it after it's glued to the keel.

 

Chimp

Current Build: ....

 

Previous Builds: HMS Beagle - OcCre,   HM Schooner Ballahoo - Caldercraft

Posted
5 hours ago, The Gimps Chimp said:

It will be so much easier to plank the deck on a flat surface

Hi Chiomp

What about the deck rounding? Decks other than the platforms and orlop were rounded as much as 9 inches depending on the deck and size of ship rather than lay flat.

Allan

 

 

 

 

..............................................................................................................................................................................................................................Don't the bulkheads have rounding where the decks lie?  

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Posted
6 minutes ago, allanyed said:

What about the deck rounding? Decks other than the platforms and orlop were rounded as much as 9 inches depending on the deck and size of ship rather than lay flat.

Hi Allan,

 

You're absolutely right in what you say.  However, when I did mine I wasn't aware of this and just followed the instructions.  I don't believe there is any camber included on the bulkheads in the kit and are made flat.  Of course you could modify the bulkheads to include a camber. 

 

Looking at the AotS for the Beagle, there doesn't appear to be much of a camber, and I would say much less than 9 inches.

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As with all these things in scale modelling, how far do you go? 

 

I must admit there has been so much about this kit which I've found frustrating but have learnt to accept it for what it is and use it as a learning process to try and hone my skills.  As with any kit, it's a starting point.  We are free to change any aspect of the kit we so choose to.  I suppose the ultimate is to scratch build, but my skills are a long way from considering that unfortunately.  As I said above, how far do you go?

 

Chimp

 

Current Build: ....

 

Previous Builds: HMS Beagle - OcCre,   HM Schooner Ballahoo - Caldercraft

  • 8 months later...
Posted

Here I am, "back in the saddle" (again).  It's been several months since my last post.  This has been due to me taking a break from the build due to other work and the fact that I had got a little frustrated with the rigging instructions.  However, I'm back now and intend to see it through to the end as I have another ship ready to start which I've promised myself I won't start it until this one is finished.  I say finished but I've already decided I won't be fitting the sails as I don't like the quality of the supplied sails and feel when fitted they hide much of the detail of the rest of the ship.  I had considered trying my hand at making sails from tissue paper but think this might be a task for a smaller ship in the future.

 

My previous task on this model had been to fit the masts and complete much of the standing rigging.  Strangely I really enjoyed tying the ratlines and think they really add much to the look of the model.  My next task was to complete the yards.  I had previously made the yards for the foremast but that was over a year ago so I had to try and remember the process.  Once I got started it all felt rather familiar.  

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With the yards for the main mast now completed, my next task will be to fight with the instructions again and get them and the foremast yards fitted to the two masts. 

 

Now I'm back in the swing of working on the model I'm determined to see it through this time :) 

 

Chimp

Current Build: ....

 

Previous Builds: HMS Beagle - OcCre,   HM Schooner Ballahoo - Caldercraft

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

It's been a couple of weeks since my last update.  Progress is still being made, albeit slow but steady.

 

The remaining three small boats have now been finished and are ready to fit.  Some of the minor details may differ from the manufacturers plans but I don't think it's significant and I'm happy with the way they look :) 

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Rudder chains fitted

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The remaining deck fittings have all been fitted:

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The bowsprit has been fully rigged and the ship's mascot fitted.  I decided to paint it like a real beagle as I feel the ships crew would have done that.  Obviously I'm open to comments to the contrary :) 

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And one additional big step is that the yards have now all been fitted.  This is a significant step and is very visual, so it now looks close to being finished.

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My next step is to concentrate on finishing the rigging.  Access into the deck for tying off the rigging is now very compromised and I'm starting to question if I'm up to it.  I've just purchased some long tweezers so I'm happy to give it a go and see how I get on.  What's the worst that can happen?  No, maybe I shouldn't have thoughts like that...

 

Looking forward to posting the next update.

 

Chimp

Current Build: ....

 

Previous Builds: HMS Beagle - OcCre,   HM Schooner Ballahoo - Caldercraft

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