Biloxi schooner by Russ - FINISHED - 1/48 scale - POB

[Jay 1]

Russ, those lips look like a difficult call but you'll make the right choice that works for you!

 

Jay

[russ]

Jay:

Thanks. I will get back to it in a bit. Chores first.

 

Russ

[russ]

I made some progress tonight as I begin to shape and fit the rails. I am going to try and get each side's rail on in one piece. It is not my first choice and it may not work in any event. It is certainly more difficult getting it all shaped in one piece, but I am worried that the stanchions may not give me enough support for proper scarph joints.

 

Questions and comments welcomed.

 

Russ

Edited April 17, 2018 by russ

[Blue Ensign]

That's a neat looking rail Russ, presumably you had to cut it out of  sheet material and fine sand to finished proportions. Could you not fake the scarph joints by scribing.

 

B.E.

[augie]

That's a long run for a single piece but it looks like you've nailed it.  Just need one more  .  BE made a good suggestion.

[michael mott]

Russ the single piece looks like you nailed the shape well, with regards to the grain which I can see would it be possible to give it a coarse sanding to simulate the grain along the portion near the bow and then a finer sanding to smooth it just enough to leave some of the (grain) scratches in and as B.E. suggested fake in some scarph joints. Just a thought.

 

Michael

Edited June 24, 2013 by michael mott

[russ]

B.E.:

I can and would scribe the scarph joints. That goes without saying. However, the question is will I make the rail up out of separate pieces to have the grain running on the proper direction.

 

I think that when I have the shape I want out of this single piece, I will use it as a template to cut new sections with the grain running in the right direction for each piece. I can nail one end of a scarph into one stanchion and the other end of the scarph into the next stanchion.

 

Russ

[russ]

Augie:

Thanks. I am pleased with the fact that the rail has the proper proportions and overhang.

 

Russ

 

 

[russ]

Michael:

I am not happy with the grain running in the wrong direction at the bow. It is just not right to leave that. Now, that I have a properly shaped piece, I can use it as a template to make the rail properly. That will happen later this week. First, papers to grade.

 

Russ

[bhermann]

Interesting discussion to follow along with.  Thanks for sharing your thoughts, folks.

 

My question, if the one piece rail is flipped over, is it a good fit on the port side?  If so, could you use it as a template to make both sets of rails?

 

Bob

[russ]

Bob:

It would probably work okay, but I made poster board templates for both sides to avoid any problems. So, the port side has its own and I will deal with that after the starboard side is complete.

 

Russ

[src]

Russ, just caught up with your build, as always, great work. Looking forward to seeing your rails. I dont know about you but there is something about looking at a well done scarf joint that makes me say "oh yeah!"

Sam

[russ]

Sam:

Yes, a nicely made scarph joint is a thing of beauty. I will try and not muck it up too badly. This is one of those areas where I go back to Underhill writing that this is not really difficult work, but it takes some time and one must be willing to chunk it if it is not right.

 

Russ

[Jay 1]

Russ, I'm enjoying seeing your work and reading your thought process as you move forward with the build.  Love what you paraphrased from Underhill...I'm learning that it's spot on for this hobby!  BTW, did you keep or chuck the hawse lips?  Will look forward to seeing the scarph work you do when you install the final rail.  Oi, are you in the trenches for the summer session? 

[russ]

Thanks for your kind words.

 

I have not yet decided about the hawse lips. That will be dealt with before the rail is installed.

 

I am teaching this summer.

 

Russ

[Martin W]

Hi Russ -- I just thought I'd look in, and once I started I couldn't stop.  This is a very attractive build, with pretty lines and quite nice details.  Not only are you a consummate researcher, but a craftsman as well.

 

Best,

 

Martin

[russ]

Martin:

Thanks for the kind words. I enjoying mixing research and modeling.

 

Russ

[russ]

Speaking of research and modeling, here is an interesting question, the answer to which I found through research.

 

How should the fore and aft ends of the deck house be oriented? I had always thought they would be perpendicular to the keel, just as was the framing of this model. However, a contemporary photograph clearly shows that the ends of the deck house are more or less perpendicular to the deck, meaning it will more or less follow the sheer line. Note how the ends of the deck house and window trim are nearly at right angles to the rail.  

 

Question answered.

 

Russ

Edited July 4, 2013 by russ

[augie]

I'll buy that orientation.  Nice photo.

[Jay 1]

That's an interesting observation, Russ--am curious if that deckhouse design was exclusive to Biloxi schooners or extends to schooners in general? I'm eventually going to be building a few schooners, so your observation is something I'm tucking away for when I start my research. That's also a very nice photo--looks like one fellow is wearing a bowler, so am guessing the picture is somewhere between late 1800s to late 'teens or early 20s?

 

Jay

[russ]

Augie:

Thanks for checking in. This is a really nice old photo. I do not want to post the entire photo for fear that I will see it on the net elsewhere. It has happened before with other photos. There are "those" people out there.

 

Russ

[russ]

Jay:

I would not extend this to anything more than Biloxi schooners without more research. I would encourage you to do some digging on this in your other projects to see what was done in other cases.

 

This photo is from the early 1900s and it is one of my favorites of local schooners. That man might be wearing another kind of hat. In this view it is a bit difficult to tell.

 

Russ

 

 

[Jay 1]

Thanks for your feedback, Russ. It'll be interesting to see if this was done elsewhere, so will study old photos, where possible, when I start those projects (am fortunate to have a good public and several university libraries nearby).

 

Completely understand about not posting the entire photo re. unscrupulous people. The pics you've shared with your build are great--thank you!

 

Jay

[janet bode]

Planking the hull was a fun experience.

 

Here are the first planks in the bow

 

 

The forward plank in he gardboard strake after shaping. Note the twist

 

 

Garboard plank installed

 

 

Clamping planks

 

 

Here is how I spile planks

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is the upper belt completed

 

 

More to come.Hi Russ.I like your build its great to see your planking methods they are differant to mine but it looks good,

cant wait to see some more pics.

                                         regards. janet b

 

 

Questions and comments welcomed.

 

Russ

[russ]

Janet:

Thanks for looking in. I hope to get some more done on this model once I get finals graded and the grades posted.

 

My planking method follows how ships were planked, adapted, of course, for scale modeling. I find it easiest to plank in this method, but everyone has their own preferences.

 

Russ

[capcosta]

Hi !

 

I wonder if i can ask you, if you can supply me the Plans for the Biloxi Schooner.

 

Thanks for your kind patience and reply.

 

Carlos Costa

capcostalagos@gmail.com

[Kenneth Powell]

A J Fisher (ajfisher.com) has the plans for the Miss Lou. They even sell the solid hull to get started.

[russ]

Carlos:

Alas, I have had MANY bad experiences with sharing my plans in the past and I am, at this point, not willing to do so. It is my intention to publish my research on Biloxi schooners at some time in the future and perhaps then I will make my plans available.

 

You can get other plans from AJFisher.com. They have a solid hull kit and you can get the plans separately as well. I see Kenneth has just posted the same advice.

 

Russ

[KenW]

What is your technique for bending the plank for your cap rail?  That is what I call a "sideways" bend, and I have not been able to accomplish it.

Thanks.

[russ]

Ken:

I traced the shape of the caprail onto a wide piece of basswood and then cut it out with a scalpel. Cut just outside the lines and then use an emory board to VERY carefully sand the rail to its final shape. Actually, this is best done wit the rail in two or three sections because it is easy to break the piece. This method will take a bit of time and you might have to go through a couple of versions to get it right, but it is much easier than trying to edge bend a piece that wide.

 

Russ