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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I have finished with the boats for the time being  as I can now access them and add any finishing touches at the proper time. 

 

I did buy a book Ship Modelling Simplyfied by Frank Mastini but have fallen foul of the Electronic world. Actually have a book, you know, those things that have shhets of paper bound up between hard covers, you would read a section, work on completing the task and then move on to the next section.  I think I need to charge up my old Kindle as this is still possible with that, but using the Kindle App on my phone is not. The point of this is getting jobs done in the right order. While Frank has told me to complete the Futtocks and upper shrouds, I have gone ahead and started the main shrouds and that is going to impede my work on other rigging tasks and installing the Yards, so I am putting that on hold for the time being. 

 

The reason I had started this was to add stability to the Masts, I have glued these, but they are stil a little unstable. 

 

I carried out an Audit on what Yards had survived and it appears I was missing 4. Also, they are not necessarily the most accurate in sizes, but I have decided to go with these as they were dads work. A lot of cleaning up was required and one of the larger yards, the Lower Top Sail Main yard was badley warped. 30 minutes in hot water and then clamped overnight to a metal ruler has cured that problem.

 

So, I am now making the missing 4 and then converting the fittings on them to match those in Harold Underhills Plate no 18 to get the metal work into some semblance of what should be. I am not going to be able to do Sheaves so I wil have to improvise on this.

 

This image is the Yards for the foremast. I still have to recreate the Royal, but the Upper Topsail Yard has been recreated and fitted out. Lessons learned here are Antiqued Brass Wire makes more realistic Bands than sheet Brass and are easier to make, and Pi is an important number to calculate the size of the blank.

 

20210816_075242.thumb.jpg.cb6537c5bcfc26a175ba91ae84d9f75f.jpg

 

I have to admit that this took longer than I envisaged, but the effort will be worth it when they are installed on their Mast.

 

Simon

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So I have reached the part where I have to convince myself that "Patience is a virtue". Each step you take then impacts on the other areas of the task in hand as fat fingers get in the way. Arthritic fingers take time and effort to respond.

 

On the Foremast, I have installed the Shrouds and Backstays, but realised that I would struggle to access the mast to install the Yards if I just went ahead and installed the forestays. So I took the time to install the various peices of equioment on the yards and then installed them.

 

20210826_090334.thumb.jpg.a669a9756c692dde0c2635835c255269.jpg   20210826_090345.thumb.jpg.b6b51f68b4a1756c13d60a3432fc11fe.jpg

 

I mislaid my chain supply and this delayed me a bit, but I found it right where it was supposed to be, do'h. They are a bit loose as they swing on their pivots and chains, so started on the outer lines but then realised that I had left the Ratlines of so have had to stop this and go back to getting them finished off. While I was working on them in position, I found it frustrating that they swung around, so I used a few Crocodile clips (I found a box of 80 for £3.99 in Lidl) and attached a length of "Rope" with a loop on one end. You can see that two of these will stabalise a Yard quite easily while you work on the it. 

 

I have started the Ratlines and found it quite difficult to get the lines through and round the Shrouds to tie them in with Tweezers. So I have gone back to needle and thread. These are not sewn through the Shroud, but I find the needle much easier to pass behind the shroud. Also, the pointy end is good for loosening a knot if it is not quite right.

 

Also, I have shown the rear deck house so you can see my efforts on the boats. I will have to work out whether I am making the rest of the oars, masts and gaffs or whether I am making covers. Might do a mixture of both. I am quite please how they finally came out.

 

20210826_090351.thumb.jpg.d531f2776da88d5226dc228b0e443692.jpg

 

One of the things I love so much about my Admiral, is that she has an opinion, she is not one to sit on the fence. She is generally sat next to me watching telly while I am working on CS and when I show her the pictures of models on the net or from on here, she definitely appreciates the skills, but anything without sails is incomplete, in her view. I have explained the complexity and the difficulty in getting the scale right for sails, but she is adament. However, sails on a ship should look off if they are not full of wind, if you are depicting the vessel at sea, a ship looking like it is is the duldrums is not how such a magnificient speedster should be displayed. 

 

So I am thinking that I should be going for the look of a vessel that is at rest, but not at the dockside. So I will do sails but they will be furled. This will allow me to leave the cover off of a longboat. Also, I am looking to have her look like a working boat, and a model that is 60 years old, not something that is brand new, out of the box. That way, while I will be responsible for much of the look of the boat, I can still say "This is dads creation!".

 

Simon

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Went for a drive down to Portsmouth today, the Historic Dockyard is open but much of the items are only limited access so going in was not a good idea today. I did however, get to take a few images from the quayside and Portsmouth rail station of HMS Warrior. Not sure if anyone is building or planning to build her, but thought i would share a few of them.20210904_165114.thumb.jpg.4f49f3dc067aab54a6e5877ded2b66e2.jpg20210904_162404.thumb.jpg.de07f3941d178527396b0ce93fc2b85f.jpg20210904_162353.thumb.jpg.af4e3dcb9c72177cdff873d4f532fcec.jpg

Posted

I have been making some progress. All the ratings on the Foremast are finished.20210911_112816.thumb.jpg.588ca155fe47dbd4d797038a2eae9712.jpg

 

I have installed the shrouds on the main mainmast and the ratings. Backstays are left of for the time being to allow access.

20210911_112821.thumb.jpg.e44074fafabcb43ad00a6c52ab9a6261.jpg

I am now installing the shrouds on the mizzen mast. I won't leave the ratings for later as before, that was far too much to do at once.

20210911_112826.thumb.jpg.ca1e24a4568fe18481a68add75911a91.jpg

 

Must remember to install the two rails before finishing the backstays.

 

Ordered and received more brass belaying pins, not really happy with them. I thought the ratio was supposed to be 1/3rd handle and 2/3rds spine but these look closer to 50/50 and there will be very little spine below the rail. Bah humbug, this is why I like to see what I am buying, really wish I could find somewhere closer than Cornwall to get these things.

 

Simon

 

Posted

  You're doing great!  My Dad also built a clipper (looked to be around 1:120 scale) and it was in a glass display case.  When my Dad passed, one of my brothers had 'dibs' on the model, which was rigged with whatever sewing thread happened to be handy and black seed beads were used as pulleys.  There were a number of thread lines that had simply deteriorated and broken, and the model looked a little sad - but still clean since it was always cased.  He planked the deck in flat match sticks - which was an exercise in patience, and the cabin detail looked pretty good.  Perhaps I'll offer to re-rig the ship for my brother sometime - but he lives far away and has become an aging bachelor-hoarder.

 

  I have bought some items from Cornwall, and they have been generally good.  I know what you mean about the belaying pin geometry - and I may resort to turning my own on the miniature (Unimat) lathe my Dad gave me some time ago.  I've used the lathe for a wide variety of projects, and although it is underpowered it turns brass and aluminum pretty good with light cuts.  I'll have to make a form tool foe the pin profile I want, then cut them off one-by-one after forming.    Johnny

Completed builds:  Khufu Solar Barge - 1:72 Woody Joe

Current project(s): Gorch Fock restoration 1:100, Billing Wasa (bust) - 1:100 Billings, Great Harry (bust) 1:88 ex. Sergal 1:65

 

 

 

Posted

The rats look good.  She'll be primed and ready for sea pretty soon it looks like.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted

Thanks Mark, but I think the Captain should hold fire before casting of just yet.

 

I started on the Fore Mast and worked back and you can see the progress in the standard of the Ratlines, this is definitely a case of Practice makes perfect, not that my latest lines are perfect but they are a huge improvement on my first attempts.

 

Before I proceed to the Backstays, I have to take stock of the jobs I have left to do that would be easier if the Back and Forestays are absent. For instance, I need to locate all the Belaying Pin locations and Deck eyes. I should now instal the railings on the Liverpool house and certainly do that before installing the Gaff and Spanker.

 

Rob recently mentioned his method of planning a build, setting out small tasks to complete and completing  that target before setting the next task. This is to give a sense of progress and to be able to envisage the end result.

 

As I have taken on this challenge without plans or instructions, when I read my book, I should have drawn up a task list, I could then have used Robs method and I would be able to see what I had achived, and what is left to do. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I started this blogg in January this year, and I aim to finish by Xmas this year, this should be achievable without to much haste. 

 

Simon

Posted

These rats look great and you did this in one evening?

Great idea to make some plans ahead. The next step in my plan is lining up the bulkheads, after correcting the sawing of the bulkheads with small strips and sanding. I will update my build log after this step.

 

Good luck!

Leo Moons

Nous sommes condamnés à être libre

 

Present build: Cutty Sark by Sergal/Mantua 1:78
 

Previous builds:

- Collie by Graupner RC Sailing boat

- Blue Nose II by Billing Boats

- Harvey by Artesania Latina

- Oceanic by Revell RC Tugboat

- Thyssen II by Graupner RC Pushing boat

 

Posted

Well, I am glad to say that I have finally finished up the ratlines. 

 

20210919_081418.thumb.jpg.3c23c99dd5a855edfdd28084c8856eee.jpg

 

I have also reworked the connection for both the gaff and spanker.  These need to be stained and varnished and the upper chain installed but I am happy with the metalwork now.

 

Next biggest job that  ends to be broken up is making the sails.

 

Lots of part started jobs to finish off.

 

Need to work out where all the deck rings will go to secure rigging. 

 

Need to calculate just how many rigging blocks I am going to need and how many I have. I also need to take stock of what I am doing with belaying pins and whether I can use the ones I just bought.

 

I would really like to be able finish before the Christmas decorations go up and that's about 2 months (and a bit) so should be doable.

 

Simon

Posted

20210922_074627.thumb.jpg.83a5224971ac6f6ce45351a5b0cd3e61.jpg

 

Well, I turned them around and managed to install the chains. I will put the rear stays in place tonight so it is not swinging around. Will have to sort out the stations and rails on the Liverpool House next.

 

I have made canvas covers for the two life boats. Might be a little oversize but I have not tied them down yet.

 

Simon

Posted

Today20210922_074627.thumb.jpg.83a5224971ac6f6ce45351a5b0cd3e61.jpg

 

Well, I turned them around and managed to install the chains. I will put the rear stays in place tonight so it is not swinging around. Will have to sort out the stations and rails on the Liverpool House next.

 

I have made canvas covers for the two life boats. Might be a little oversize but I have not tied them down yet.

 

I have now installed the rails o  the Liverpool house and set up stays for the gaff.20210925_223000.thumb.jpg.6f41cdd14adf5ffc11826cfb9f6e4e84.jpg

 

still need to install a pin rail either side before I can go ahead with the Mizzen Backstays. 

 

Simon

Posted

Working on those pin rails I have the aforementioned problem with the proportions of the pins. They are 9mm so already large scale wise, but the pin is disproportionately short compared to the handle. Not a major problem when used on the brass pin holders on the mast but problematic on a pin rail.

 

I have some mahogany strip that I wanted to use but as you can see, there is not enough pin protruding from the bottom of the rail.20210926_100116.thumb.jpg.c2a62bfdb1cc743f05a769f7719290d4.jpg

 

I don't have a micrometer but that looks about 1.5mm thick.

 

I tried  a Starbucks stirrer.20210926_100009.thumb.jpg.eb825786af810471b91f6ace23b9ccb8.jpg

 

That is better as the stirrer looks about .75mm.

 

I then tried a Costa stirrer, this looks about .5mm so I suspect I will have to go with that.

 

20210926_095747.thumb.jpg.c110cef8091f18cf8b832cd8ee06feba.jpg

 

So one more to make, then I can look at the posts, that will be square mahogany stock and I will try to make them a little less blocky.

 

Simon

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Hi all,

 

I have been quiet of late as progress has been slow. Basically, I have been trying to make head or tail of the Rigging plan for Cutty and not getting anywhere. I dont want to start on bits and pieces only to realise later on I have made a rod for my own back, so I want to make sure that I am working from the centre line of the boat outward. I have made and installed the Gaff sail, and am now working on fully dressing all the yards for the Mizzen Mast. Just the Royal to finish off. I have given up trying to understand Cambells drawing and have gone to Harold Underhills Plate No 34 - Running Rigging on Square Sails. 

20211017_170321.thumb.jpg.928c181383020928311b3ca9a764310b.jpg

I am fairly sure I know where I am going with the Stays and Shrouds. If I am reading this right, Bunt and Leech Lines go in front of the sail and Clew, downhaul and sheet lines behind. This starts out very simple from the Royal and gets more complex as you work your way down to the course and the deck. At that point, I will have to go back to Cambells drawings to get an idea on where to install the belaying points for the lines.

 

One thing is for sure, I dont have enough Pins. Oh well, after I have completed the Mizzen, at least I will be able to estimate what I will need for the rest of the boat.

 

Enjoy the rest of the weekend.

Edited by My Fathers Son
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have finally got around to ordering some belaying pins. In the mean time I have been taking a good look at my yards. I am happy with how the lower yards are coming along but when I look at Keiths examples, the blocks I have a just too big. So I have ordered a few 2mm and 3mm blocks to see how they will look on the Royals and Top Gallants. 

 

When I set out on this journey, working with such small sizes seemed impossible but not so much any more. The 5mm ones I have on the Mizzen Royal look out of proportion. 

 

These should arrive about Wednesday so I will up date then.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Well, December was a quiet month for boat building in the end, way to much to do in the house getting ready for Christmas.  Today was the first day that I could spend any time on her so pulled up Keith's images as a guide and the new vlocks I ordered in November.  The 2mm ones are miniscule and too small but the 3mm look ideal, especially on the sky sail and royals. These are the main sky a royal yards 

 

20211228_010739.thumb.jpg.d1e4420d40701f5f02968787594575b5.jpg

 

The ropes are 9.5mm below the yard which scales at 3ft so the yard would be at waist height for the sailor working there. 

 

It feels good to be back making progress again even if it does mean that I have to redo much of the yards to come closer to this, although I won't be changing any of the installed jackstays.

 

Simon

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

The more I look at Harold Underhills Plate No 34 , the more I see that this is a generic guide for the Sail rigging for a square rigger and what I need at the moment is specific guidance on lifts and braces on Cutty Sark, so I am going to have to go back to staring atCambells drawings again. The problem I have with those is the yards are displayed at an impossible angle but the last few days I have had planty of time to stare at these plans and I think some of it is getting through.

 

The reaso I have not been working on her is that I have been unwell of late and had Angioplasty last Friday, I now have a stent in one artery. I am feeling much better but they go in through your right hand and thr bruising in my wrist means I haven't been able to do any fine detail work since last Thursday..

 

One thing this has done is that I sat and watched a series on TV on 6 Classic British ships and they included the history of Mary Rose, Great Britain and Cutty Sark. When they were describing the race between CS and Thermopylae, my Wife suggested that Thermopylae should be my next subject, something I had been thinking of for sometime but not knowing how to suggest it. Woo hoo.  Had a search around but struggled to find any kit or plans for Thermopylae in 1:96 other than the Scientific kit and none of those available so a bit to do to get ready for that project.

 

Simon

Posted (edited)

 Simon, first off, I hate hearing about your medical issues, my thoughts and prayers are with you. Second, Thermopylae plans can be obtained from Cornwall Model Boats in your part of the world. I ordered a set a couple of years ago, I can't remember the scale right off hand. I think they're a bit dodgy but maybe that's just me?

 

 

Edited by Keith Black

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

 You can Google the Revell plans and download them for free. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

Hi Simon,

Get well soon and I hope you will fully recover.

Mantua sells the plans of Thermopylae on scale 1/124. I am not sure whether I would recommend it to you view my experience with Cutty Sark model (well aware it is a 35 years old one)

 

Leo Moons

Nous sommes condamnés à être libre

 

Present build: Cutty Sark by Sergal/Mantua 1:78
 

Previous builds:

- Collie by Graupner RC Sailing boat

- Blue Nose II by Billing Boats

- Harvey by Artesania Latina

- Oceanic by Revell RC Tugboat

- Thyssen II by Graupner RC Pushing boat

 

Posted

Thanks for all the well wishes guys, I am feeling better and have been getting out for walks each day and definitely have more stamina now. Hospital is quite pleased with my progress and apparently modelling is good physiotherapy for my bruised wrist and hand, who knew!

 

I have looked at the revell hull and deck plans and they are just wrong. Even when you buy the wood deck for the plastic hull the mizzen mast is in the wrong place.

 

The Mantua plans are 1:124 I think as that appears to be the only scale the do this in. They are an option of course and can always scale these up on the copier at work once I have the correct dimensions. There are a couple of books I have under consideration that have plans included for Thermopylae but as they are second hand I am waiting on the seller to advise if the plans are still with the book.

 

In the mean time, I have been updating the starboard mizzen pin rail and back stays.20220111_232108.thumb.jpg.bf389806b94852fcee17e903af8ca0ce.jpg

Posted

 Simon, great news on your recovery! Getting back to modeling the Tennessee was the driving force to my recovery of the use of my left hand after my stroke 2017. That and God's Grace. Your dad would be so proud of the job you're doing on the restoration of his model. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...

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