Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack by GGibson - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24

[GGibson]

Well, after a relatively successful completion of the Norwegian Sailing Pram as my first model build, I'm jumping right in and starting my 2nd build!  I purchased both the NSP and the Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack at the same time, so #2 has been waiting in the wings.  It's showtime!

 

 

As I did with the NSP, I will be relying on other builders' build logs to help me through the challenges, and hope that whatever I'm able to contribute during my build log will assist others as they tackle the Lobster Smack, as well.  It definitely looks more challenging than the first build was!

 

First thing I did was to take inventory of the contents.  In reviewing SkiBee's build log, I noted he had some missing cabin bulkhead side guides.  I, too, had them missing from my Sheet 14, as well.  It looks, though, that they are of similar size to some of the leftover pieces from sheets 2 & 5 once you punch out the port and starboard spines, so we may be able to use those.

 

I also noted, with some amusement and some concern, that the review posted by moderator kurtvd19 has a picture of sheet 14 with the cabin bulkhead side guides missing, as well! Doh!!!  1:24 Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack - Model Shipways - REVIEWS: Model kits - Model Ship World™

 

So, starting with the starboard spine (on sheet 5, not sheet 2 per the instructions, as SkiBee discovered), I glued the three center pieces to the starboard spine.  As I started gluing with the recommended white glue, I noticed, as SkiBee did in his gluing, that the water-based white glue was causing the spines to curl before I had a chance to clamp them.  Therefore, I thought I would try using a solvent-based clear glue for the remainder of the spine gluing to see if that makes a difference in adherence and curling.  I'll report back my findings.  Anyone else using clear glue rather than white glue?

 

 

Today, I worked on cutting and bending the brass rod to be used to raise/lower the centerboard.  The butane torch seemed to work pretty well and I was able to curl and bend to the appropriate sizes/lengths.  I liked SkiBee's suggestion to paint the centerboard before getting it wedged between the two spines.  However, I only painted the portion of the centerboard that looked like would be exposed.  Any extra primer/paint on the  top side may just make the centerboard move harder. 

 

 

In dry-testing the pivot rod before gluing the port spine, I noted that the rod didn't quite fit properly in the slide slot, so I had to VERY CAREFULLY cut/chisel the slot a bit wider in order for the pivot rod to move freely.  Sounds like SkiBee had this same issue, and the Model Shipways folks need to adjust their laser cutters just slightly to fix this.  With these sheets being so thin and fragile, they can break way too easy for them to require user modifications.  OK, off my soapbox.

 

 

Once I got the pivot rod to freely slide in the groove, I glued the port spine to the center pieces (again using the clear glue rather than white glue) and, using almost every clamp I had, clamped the pieces to dry.  I will let this sit overnight before moving to the reinforcing pieces and the bulkhead frames.

 

Building Boat #2 has begun!  I welcome your comments, critiques and suggestions!  Thanks...

 

Gregg

 

Edited February 6, 2022 by GGibson

[Matt D]

That looks like a terrific start, Gregg!  I’ve read that Model Shipways will send replacement parts for anything missing or broken.  As I understand it, if you mess something up on your own, they’ll replace it for you.  They have a good reputation for their customer service.  So don’t hold back if you have missing parts.

[GGibson]

Thanks, Matt.  Model Shipways customer service has been responsive to the inquiries I had while building the Norwegian Sailing Pram.  I am, however, a bit disappointed in their shipping speed.  They advertise items as "Ready to Ship", yet take 4-5 days for the item to get out the door.  Hopefully, they will get better.  But, their replies to email inquiries have been very good. 

 

Appreciate your input.  I glanced at your completed Virginia 1819 ship.  Awesome work, Matt! 

[GGibson]

Happy Pi Day, all!  Well, made some progress on the Lobster Smack the past day or so.  I worked for a few days on dry-fitting and ultimately gluing the bulkhead frames.  As Skibee noted in his build log, I had issues in fitting both sides of Frame 4 around the Part B reinforcing piece.  I had to increase the depth of the cut-in by about 3/16".  Also, when I glued the starboard side Piece B, the piece slid up a bit and dried before I noticed, so my best guess remedy was to not only make the cut deeper as I noted above, but also had to widen the cut so that it fit properly against the top and bottom of the spine.

 

 

I continued on with the frame assembly, and noted that, while almost all of the frames required some light sanding in order to fit their grooves in the spine slots, Frames 6 & 8 fit pretty loosely.  I wasn't sure if I would need to shim the gaps or just carefully glue in place.  I chose the later solution, which seemed to work ok for both of those frames.  I hope I did everything well, as I proceed to the decking, fairing and planking!

 

 

I then worked on the bulkhead frame 10 and transom.  Directions were pretty straight-forward but, again like SkiBee experienced, I had to sand off a good 1/8-1/4" from the top in order for it to get flush with the top of the spine.  The picture below might be a bit deceiving, as the transom still looks higher than the top of the spine, but it is due to the camera angle.  I had not glued Frame 10 yet, so I took it and the transom off the spine to sand.  I was too afraid of breaking the transom if I tried to cut/shave, so I spent the time to sand the curve down to the proper level.  Once I hit the mark, I glued Frame 10, as well.

 

 

As the instructions suggested, I decided to paint the cockpit floor area and cockpit seats before this area gets closed up with the decking.  I used the MS4814, Hull Copper Red to come close to a mahogany look for the seats.  In retrospect, I have seen several others use some type of stain/varnish on their boat seats, and it really looks sharp.  I made that mistake on the NSP, as well.

 

  

 

I am now to the point of installing the deck, but I have a stupid/silly question that I need other experienced readers' help with!  In the picture below, you can see the notches on the port and starboard sides of each of the bulkhead frames.  The way they line up, they seem to hold a purpose, but what is it?  It looks like, once both halves of the deck are fitted and glued, the notches become hidden and inaccessible.  Are they used for assistance in spacing the frames at proper distances when dry-fitting and gluing?  This novice builder is at a loss, but don't want to mess up this early in the process.  In reading the instruction book, I'm not seeing any reference to this sequence of notches.  OK, enough said.  Appreciate your input!

 

 

Thanks again to everyone who reads this log.  I appreciate your follow, your comments, and your advice!  Hope everyone enjoyed their Pi today!

 

Gregg

[bobandlucy]

Looks good, Gregg!

[GGibson]

Moving on from my concerns about the notches on the bulkhead frames and their significance.  Everything seems to indicate that, at least for this particular build, they don't have any specific function and will get covered up with the deck.

 

Now, my next concern regarding the deck.  When I dry-fitted and ultimately glued each of the bulkhead frames to the spine, I paid pretty darn close attention (I thought) to making sure they were centered and balanced.  But now, when I am looking at placing the two-piece decking on top of the frames, there seems to be a pretty noticeable/significant gap between the deck and the port side frame #7 (at the edge of the cockpit seat on that side).

 

 

I know there will be some bend to it when I dampen it, band it and glue it, but it doesn't appear to have near the gap on the starboard side.

 

 

The frame looks pretty level on the spine compared to the others, but there is obviously just enough of a twist to make a difference.  Will this make a difference when I begin the planking or when I do the finish work around the cockpit?  Should I shim up that side in order to minimize the bend needed in going from frame #6 to #7 and then #8?  Anyone have similar issues with the decking fitting a bit awkward?

 

Appreciate the follow and the comments!

 

[SkiBee]

@GGibson  The way I looked at the pictures in the instructions from page 15 to 17, the gap between the bulkhead frame and the deck is for the coaming and cabin sides to fit down into.  I have not install them yet.

     The key thing is that you want the deck to go to the outside of the frames to eliminate sanding the frames down to be even with the deck.  You can see the small gap I left between the deck and frames below.  It was a lot of work to sand the frames down even wit the deck.

[SkiBee]

@GGibson  I regard to frame 6, it looks like the port side is flush with the keel but the starboard looks like the bottom of frame 6 is not flush with the keel.  if that is true, that could contribute to the problem.  

I did fair the top of my frames to try and help smooth the deck as it went from frame to frame.  In the pictures below, you can see that on the port side, frame 6 sits a little higher too.  As I mentioned in my build log I wished I would have spent a little more time fairing the tops, but I think in the end all will be good.  Lesson learned.

[GGibson]

Thanks @SkiBee, for the advice on the bulkhead frame notches and how they relate to the coaming and cabin sides.  Wish the instructions would have been a bit clearer at this point on the purpose of the notches.  And, you really can't tell from the pictures of when the deck is installed/glued that there should be some type of "line-up" with the notches and the placement of the deck.  There are spots on mine now where they line up fine on some of the frames but not others.  I'll try to use a knife on the frames where I can to allow the cabin sides to fit decently when I get to that point.

 

Can't deny that this is getting frustrating.  One of those "wish I could start over" feelings, as I look at just enough tweak in the 90 degree settings of several frames and the placement of the deck just not perfect, creating gaps and mismatches in spots.  I will now need to sand down several of the bulkhead frames where they overhang past the deck width, as I also fair the hull to prep it for planking.

 

 

I have used some wood filler to clean up those gaps down the center.  I also had some mismatch and quite a bit of overhang where the deck meets the transom.  I think I was able to sand it down adequately, though, as well as fix most of the mismatch where the two deck sides meet above the cockpit seatback.

 

 

Wow, tons of lessons I have learned from the short time on this build, compared to how I worked on the Sailing Pram.  I've got read way ahead in the instructions to see exactly how things are supposed to fit.  And... probably most importantly... TAKE MY TIME!  Work slowly and deliberately.

 

I am going to work more slowly on the fairing process, and see if I can get these frames sanded back down so they are under the deck, and so that the planking goes more smoothly.  

 

This long task of fairing will hopefully give me time to become less frustrated and get my excitement elevated once again.

 

Thanks for the follow, comments and critique...

 

Gregg

[GGibson]

Well, a brief, quick update.  I think (I hope, anyways) that I spent a decent amount of time fairing the hull, prepping it for the planking.  There were also several of the frames that stuck out past the edge of the deck, so I sanded those spots down, as well.  A birds-eye view of the boat now doesn't reveal any frames, so I think I am good.  The fairing was a process, getting spines beveled so that the planks fit nicely.  I think as I mentioned in my last update, if I had to do it all over again, I would probably place the deck so that all of the frames were completely under the deck and would fill the gaps between the two deck halves with wood filler after-the-fact. 

 

I have also added the stem, keel and sternpost pieces along the bottom of the central spine on both sides.  They went on pretty well.  Before placing and gluing the central plank, though, I had to do a considerable amount of sanding on the bottom part of the transom so that the plank set flush against the spine.

 

Now, time for planking.  I am going to take my time with this process, as well.  I have looked at the port-side garboard strake to see how this is going to fit, in order to start out well.

 

 

The instructions state that the garboard strakes will have the most extreme twist to them.  In dry-fitting this port-side strake, though, so it fits nicely in the rabbet along the keel, It doesn't seem like the twist at either end is TOO terrible, but we'll see how it goes.  When I planked my first boat, the Sailing Pram, I soaked the planks and shaped them in a curve to dry quite a bit more than what it appears I'll have to do here.  Anyone have comments on how this "plank-shaping" compared to other builds?  What did you use to shape the planks?  I have a large wire basket, probably about 18" in diameter, that I used to help me shape the Sailing Pram.  Will probably use it again in shaping these planks.  There was planking overlap on the Sailing Pram, but there won't be on this Lobster Smack, so hopefully everything will fit snuggly and smoothly.

 

EDIT: OK, so I realized as I was getting ready to soak the first garboard strake that I "form" it across frames after I take it out of the hot water while it's still pliable.  It did have a pretty noticeable bend to it on the aft end when forming, and I think it came out well, as it fit nicely in the rabbet.  Glued it in place and will let it dry overnight.  Will work on the starboard side tomorrow.  Thanks to everyone who reads this.  Appreciate your comments/suggestions/critique. 

 

 

Edited March 23, 2021 by GGibson

[GGibson]

Quick update... Formed and glued both of the garboard strakes.  Seemed to fit well and bend well where needed, especially at the aft end.

 

 

Did a dry fit then on the first starboard side strake 1, and it will need a bit of a bend at both ends, but looks like it will fit snug against the garboard along the whole length once it is softened and formed slightly.

 

Going to work now (slowly) on the remaining strakes.  Unless I have a question/comment during this process, I'll check back in once I complete the sheer strakes at the deck level.  Exciting, huh?!?

[GGibson]

Been a few weeks, so thought I's give  quick update (although I said I was going to wait until all the strakes were installed)... Been doing some outside things as much as I can lately (I think it's finally spring in Kansas City!), but finished the 2nd strake on both sides today.

 

 

After soaking them in super hot water for several minutes, the planks are forming pretty well next to each other, especially on the two ends.  While I may end up with a few small gaps in the plank seams, a little filler in those spots should work well.  They are not very big at all (so far!).

 

So, I'm continuing to move forward... SLOWLY!

[SkiBee]

The aft end of your planks look really good, much better than mine.  I like the way you used a combo of rubber bands and clamps. I wish you had started your build before me, Great Job

[GGibson]

Thanks, SkiBee.  Appreciate the peek in.  Yes, using a bunch of clamps (both the metal ones and the plastic ones), clothes pins, rubber bands... Seems to work fairly well.

 

I am now on Strake 7.  My "creep" isn't too bad as I look at the guidemarks on frames 3, 6 & 9, although they seem to be running a bit short.  Not sure how to make that up without some significant gaps, but may not be as bad as I am perceiving. Just looking at it in a "worst case scenario", I suppose.

 

As I recall, though, your fill came out looking really good.  Probably won't finish the strakes before I'm taking a week to visit granddaughters.  I'll check back in after I'm back and I get the bottom planking finished up.  Again, thanks for checking in.  I need to go over and check your progress in your log, as well!

[GGibson]

Hello all!  Well, I took the whole summer off from the "shipyard", enjoying the grandkids, doing some traveling, and other general summertime stuff.  I'm now getting back to this Lobster Smack.  And, I have noticed that fellow modelers who I was following like SkiBee and bobandlucy have long finished their Lobster Smacks.  I will use their great work and documentation to help complete mine.  With that said, it's time to go to work...

 

I finished the bottom planking, and did my best to fill, sand, sand more, and sand more to make the strakes as smooth and seamless as possible for when it's time to paint.  I then worked on the toe rails, rub rails, fairleads and oarlock pads.  As suggested in the instructions, I soaked the coaming and the cabin sides in boiling water for several minutes each in order to soften for the curves.  It seemed to work fairly well, although the basswood did crack a bit on the coaming, which I've tried to seal using some super glue.  It seems to have worked satisfactorily.

 

 

As also suggested in the instructions, I have painted the coaming and the cabin sides prior to placing them on the deck.  I am seriously contemplating painting the deck, as well, before putting the coaming and cabin sides on, as I think it will be much easier to do it now than to use the flex tape, masking, etc.  Any thoughts?  

 

Excited to get back in the shipyard!  Hope there is a group of additional modelers that are working on the Lobster Smack now, too, so I can continue to share thoughts and concerns.  Appreciate your time!  

[SkiBee]

@GGibson Good to have you back; but those Granddaughters do need our time, almost as much as we need time with them. 

I stained my deck before gluing in the coaming and cabin sides, just use white glue.

[GGibson]

Your stained deck looked awesome, @SkiBee..!  I was impressed!  My color scheme on this boat is... different.  I'll share a picture with you in a day or two how I painted the deck, the cabin, the doors, etc.  Not what I had originally planned, I messed up on what I wanted to do with the deck, so I'm improvising the rest... Ha!  I was out of practice for too long this summer!  Thanks for checking in, sir.  I need to peek at your Phantom New York Pilot Boat progress.

[GGibson]

So, here's how I painted the deck, the roof, and other top-side pieces.  Working on painting the hull now.  

 

[GGibson]

Hi All - Not sure if anyone is still following me, as I have had some real life stuff come up this year at various times that have put my Lobster Smack build WAY behind.  The other shipbuilders that I was tagging along with on this build have long finished their projects.

 

Anyways, I have been working on the sail and the rigging, and have another silly question. The instructions for running the lines for the throat halyard, for example, suggest using the 0.7mm beige line included in the packet.  How did everyone squeeze the 0.7mm line through the smaller holes on the blocks? Am I using the wrong size lines?

 

 

Hope to get this completed in the coming weeks and start a new build soon.  Not sure which boat I will do yet.  Appreciate those of you still following, and hope your builds are going well!  Thanks!

[ccoyle]

That does look too large. Did you double-check to make sure you're using the correct block and line diameter?

[GGibson]

Thanks for the reply, Chris.  Yeah, for the Lobster Smack, these were the only size blocks provided, and the 0.7mm line is what was in the marked bag.  I may send an email query to the folks at Model Expo, but otherwise think I'll find a size of line that will fit the block and look good.  Appreciate your input!

 

On a related topic, is anybody buying bulk rigging line?  If so, where?  I like the Ropes of Scale site, but wondering what shipping delays we might experience from Canada.

[DanB]

Hi

You are way ahead of me, but your line looks thicker than mine and the part number is different. Mine looks like it would fit if I sealed the end with dilute glue. Maybe they sent you the wrong line? 
 

Dan

 

[GGibson]

Thanks for your input, as well, Dan!  Yeah, I just looked back at the line I used for the Norwegian Sailing Pran, and I definitely have too thick of line for this run.  Looking through my stash of leftover line, I think I've got enough to complete this, but have ordered some more line from Syren, which looked pretty good and should ship fairly promptly.

 

Looking forward to watching your progress, Dan! 

[GGibson]

Well, I received the additional rigging rope that I ordered in order to complete the rigging on this Lobster Smack, so wanted to finish this boat.  I am very pleased with the rigging line I ordered.  All in all, the completed Lobster Smack came out well, and I learned a lot to do differently/better in future builds.

 

 

I left off my build log at the point where I had painted the deck, the roof and other topside pieces and was working on painting the hull.  A few comments on how I finished everything and what I'd do differently...

 

Mast - I did a much better job in shaping the mast on the Lobster Smack than I did with the Norwegian Sailing Pran (NSP).  Used the spar holder to knock down the four corners, but didn't overkill it, then used 100 and 150 grit sandpaper to shape into the round to fit the mast hole.  Wanted to do this better than I did on the Sailing Pran (which ended up more oval than round), and I succeeded. Took similar attention to shaping the boom and the gaff.

 

Sail (Mainsail & Jib Sail) - Thought I had done a good job in making the sail on the NSP, and did well with the two sails on this Lobster Smack, too.  Probably the most challenging part of the sail preparation was drilling the holes for the lashings and hanks.  The combined thickness of the sail material along with the reef bands along the edges, and compounded by the corner gussets, made for some tired and sore hands drilling all of the needed holes.  As suggested in the instructions, I threaded some small beads (not sure if they're visible in the pictures) when attaching the gaff and boom to the mast, which I thought gave it a nice touch. 

 

Rigging - This was challenging, but yet kind of fun getting the various lines... the throat halyard, peak halyard, jib halyard, bobstay, fore stay, back stay, jib sheet and topping lift... in their proper places and belayed/tied to their appropriate locations.  As suggested in the instructions, I did a lot of the preparation (attaching blocks, running rigging, etc.) before placing the mast in its socket.  One thing I would like to improve on is knot tying.  I've just been doing some simple knots, double knots, sometimes triple knot or knots on top of knots.  I'd like to do them "cleaner", if that makes sense.

 

Painting and paint scheme - I think I mentioned earlier in this build log, I wasn't wild about the color scheme I ended up with on this Lobster Smack, and wish I would have done it a bit differently.  With that said, I'm also not pleased with how the toe rails and rub rails look, and it was difficult to paint the rails different colors without some bleeding onto other parts.  Perhaps the solution to that would have been to paint the different rails prior to placement.  I also did not place the sliding hatch runners correctly.  I've got them laying on their side and discovered the error after I had glued them in place.  Oops...

 

That's about everything I can think of for now.  Glad this one is finally finished.  I started this back in March 2021, but had some delays with grandkids visiting during the summer and some other "real life" issues that had this sitting idle for a longer time than I wanted.  On now to the Ballahoo, which I have already started while I was waiting on the additional rigging line.  I will, though, try to look at ongoing Lobster Smack builds to see everyone's progress, and to offer my 2 cents worth of advice when asked.  Thanks to those who followed my progress on this one, albeit with my delays.

 

Happy building, everyone!

Gregg 

 

 

Edited February 6, 2022 by GGibson

[DanB]

It looks great Gregg! Congratulations!

 

Dan

 

[druxey]

Congratulations, Gregg, on finishing your model. Every model is a learning process and on each one your skills improve. Proof of that is in the shaping of your mast and spars. What was tough the first time comes much more easily each time.  Painting parts off-model before assembly is always preferable if possible, instead of masking off.

 

Your sails and rigging look very good. Enjoy the next challenge!

[GGibson]

Thanks, Dan.  I am now following and catching up on your Lobster Smack build log, as well.  Looking good from what I have seen, but still reading your text.  Hope it all goes well for you!

 

Druxey, appreciate your comments.  Definitely all a fun learning process. 

[bobandlucy]

Looks very nice, Gregg!

[ccoyle]

Congratulations, Gregg!

[SiriusVoyager]

Your boat looks great!  That was a good idea on painting the deck before adding anything else to it.  I will have to do that myself.