Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner

[thibaultron]

Buy some nylon screws, the epoxy may not glue to them. Otherwise, put in a screw from the top, epoxy the nuts and back the screws out as the epoxy starts to set. Run a tap down from the top once it is set. You may have to run a tap size drill down from the top, to clear out the keel, then a clearance drill, carefully, up from the bottom, following the hole from the tap drill.

[jlefever]

You are making great progress.

 

It's interesting seeing how your work attacks problems current to all of us finding a variety of approaches to creating similar models. Your approach seems both accurate and eminently reasonable.

 

I'm continuing to follow with keen interest.

 

Jim

[Maury S]

I followed Druxey's advise re. the retaining bolts / nuts.  Worked this time.  I lightly oiled the bolts, inserted them in the holes, held in the slots and very lightly applied some epoxy.  The bolts turn freely.

There is a big lens distortion in the photo.  The bolts are parallel to each other and at the angle created by the building framework.

Maury

[michael mott]

Lovely work so far Maury, nice work with the chisel. Druxey is right properly sharp chisels, in fact any cutting tools are a joy to use. Looks like a nice project to follow along.

 

Michael

[Maury S]

While waiting for glue to dry...

The transom has a half-round oval(ish) molding that surrounds the name and home port.  I cut out the pattern, cut and sanded the outside to the line. This photo is after the center piece was cut out.

Since it's less than 1/16" thin, I then glued it to a sacrificial carrier piece and drilled out the center (a bunch of holes near the inner line.  A bunch of sanding and scraping

later it looks as it should.  Rather than glue it in place on the transom, I'm going to paint it (gold) while it's still on the carrier and remove it and glue it on the transom later.

Maury

Edited April 11, 2021 by Maury S
added sentence

[niwotwill]

Great idea of the sacrificial wood backup. What kind of glue did you use? That Artesania Micro Scraper is a great looking tool, all this time I've been filing shapes onto hacksaw blades. Cannot tell you how many skinned knuckles that has caused.

 

Looking really good Maury, looking real good

 

Stay Well and Stay Safe

Will 

[druxey]

Neatly  done, Maury!

[Maury S]

Glue;  temporary vs permanent:  Throughout this build I have assumed (maybe wrongly) that inexpensive "school glue" is easier to dissolve than PVA.  For all of the "temporary" gluing of braces between frames, as well as the oval molding described above, etc. I've used the white school glue.  I use the same (diluted 50% with water) for gluing the frame patterns to the boards.  First Mate asked if I'd tested that...and the answer is not yet...but I should do so.  I had to re-do one of the frames and the "school glue" did seem to come undone quicker.

Maury

[Maury S]

Frames continued:  Frames 1 - 18 are installed.  #s 17 & 18 are the first of the after-most frames that lodge on the deadwood rather than on top of the keel.  There are notches on both the deadwood and the frame set that need to mesh and align with the rabbet.  Having floors on the frames  and the 1" wider keel / stem & stern complicates the installation.

I'm also going to have to put temporary spacers between the first four frames, otherwise fairing the sheer and sides of the frames will be impossible.

Maury

[allanyed]

I love seeing a build with machinist squares being used to check that everything is aligned and square.   Looking good Maury!!

[niwotwill]

I think you are right about the spaces Maury. It doesn't look as if the glue joints at the keel will withstand the sanding vibrations. Do you have the drawings that are included in the Model Shipways model? Just thinking it might be worth taking off the frames and fairing per the drawings if you have them. Just a thought. The framing is really nice you're coming along very quickly. I'm waiting to see how you build the transom. (solid or built up)

 

Congratulations it looking very nice.

Stay Well and Stay Safe

Will 

[Maury S]

Will,

Yes, I took the Model Shipways plan set and reduced the scale to 1:48.  Everything...height, width, thicknesses, etc. is right off the plans.  You can't do a POF model without a good plan set.  Even with a good set, adjustments still need to be made from time to time.  Also, a warning from an engineer...if there are numbers (lengths, widths, thicknesses, etc.) indicated on the plans, make sure you use the numbers, not a measurement taken from lines.

Maury

[thibaultron]

However, do double check the numbers against the drawings, for gross errors, to be sure. On my Santa Fe Business car some of the dimensions given were off by a foot or more, over what the drawings showed, and when matched against the photos.

[Maury S]

As I proceeded aft with the framing, I noticed the bottom of the horn timbers did not line up with the rabbet. 

The darker line at the top of the deadwood is the rabbet.The horn timber unit needed to be removed and replaced.  Soaking with ISO every 15 minutes and wrapping with Saran Wrap to keep the alcohol from completely evaporating managed to loosen the section after about an hour.  After replacing the timbers, I extended the rabbet across the stern post.

Maury

[druxey]

All hail isopropanol! Rescued yet again.

[Maury S]

Rough Fairing:  Now that all the frames are in, it's time to start fairing.  The skeleton is pretty solid as is and I'm not concerned with 80 grit paper breaking and of the frames.  The spacers do a good job of holding everything together.

I did some of the sheer fairing while the boat was held on the building board.  I check elevations as I go along.

Once well faired, temporary battens will be run somewhere near the top of the frames and another near the turn of the bilge.  They will hold the transom in place (side to side) and provide rigidity so the spacers and cross battens can be removed.  That will be a challenge...dissolving the glue on the spacers without loosening the battens.  Maybe some of those "Special planking repair" clamps that Druxey used on the longboat.

Maury

[druxey]

Looking very sweet, Maury!

[niwotwill]

Great photos of the ship taking shape especially the sanding dust below the frames. I like your ideas of cross battens and frame fillers to strengthen the skeleton. 

 

Stay Well and Stay safe

Will 

[Maury S]

Fairing continues: I had to remove a couple of the frame pairs and re-install so the bottoms lined up with the rabbet.  Lots of sanding with 80 grit to bring everything fair.

 

 

 

 

With the re-set of the errant frames, I have to re-fair the sheer.  The last frame tops are way too high.

Next will be a couple of temporary battens to attach the transom and then remove the spacers and cross-braces.

Maury

 

Edited May 3, 2021 by Maury S
spelling

[Windships]

Maury

 

You're Flyin' and she'll soon be Floatin'!

 

Looks great. Should encourage me to get back to my bench!

 

RB

[Windships]

Forgot to  mention...nothing better than having great photos.

Congratulations for persevering to locate everything there seems to be about her as a Schooner.

[druxey]

Starting to look very sweet, Maury.

[Maury S]

The temporary battens are being installed.  Held in place with wire twists 'til the school glue dries.

The run of the batten is fair but it's not critical as it's temporary until the clamp on the inside is installed.  The plan is to invert the boat and wet the spacers (one or two at a time) with iso-soaked cotton swabs until they come undone.  Hopefully, gravity's impact on the liquid will prevent the battens from getting wet and popping off.

Maury

 

[Maury S]

Temporary battens installed.  This pointed out a few areas that needed building up.  I have some .025" box that I can use here.

Once they are glued in, I can start on removing the spacers and most of the cross-braces.  After the inside of the frames are fair and the clamps are in place, I can re-fair the outside of the frames.

Maury

[Windships]

Nothing sweeter than a comely vessel in frame. She looks very good Maury!

[niwotwill]

The lines of the hull are really taking shape and showing what a great looking boat she is. Interesting way to hold the battens twisted copper wire I will keep that in mind for difficult areas in the future.

 

Make it a good day

Will 

[Maury S]

Quote

 

Posted Monday at 09:12 AM

Nothing sweeter than a comely vessel in frame

 

comely

 

ADJECTIVE

archaic

humorous

1. (typically of a woman) pleasant to look at; attractive.

   synonyms:

   attractive · good-looking · nice-looking · beautiful · pretty · handsome · lovely · stunning · striking · arresting · gorgeous · prepossessing · winning · fetching · captivating · 

   [more]

   • agreeable; suitable

   Yep.

   Maury

[Maury S]

While waiting for the ISO to do its work on the spacers (BTW, the cheap school glue is just as difficult to dissolve as the good PVA) I made the deck beams.  I have a good template beam for the appropriate round-up.  I thicknessed some 1/8" stock down to 5" (@ scale) and marked enough convex edges as I'll need.

I rough cut the line a bit proud on the scroll saw, then finished them off on the disc sander.  (the top side is the critical edge).  With a compass, I marked the 5" depth and roughly finished the concave side on the oscillating spindle sander.

The main beams are 5" square and the intermediate beams 4" square.  Back to the ISO.

Maury

 

 

[niwotwill]

Looking like a shipyard  Maury all that timber waiting to be used. You're right about school glue once set it as hard as titebond to dissolve. Only good news it drys clear.

Will 

 

[Maury S]

I think I'll run the beams thru a setup on the mill.  That will make the bottom edge match the upper.

Maury