Duchess of Kingston 1778 by desalgu - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Royal Yacht

[Dave_E]

21 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

 

So beautiful, it almost hurts. Fantastic job worth of a Museum.

 

Yves

Understatement of the day. Outstanding craftsmanship Sir! 👍😀

[Stephen schultz]

You are doing spectacular work and I love your attitude.  Your posts are delightful.  Thank you for taking us on your journey.

[desalgu]

Thank you Yves, Dave_E, and Stephen!  I really appreciate the nice comments.  You all have no idea how much it helps to keep me going.  I still haven't met anyone in town that builds model ships.

 

I've been going slow on the foremast.  We had a week or more of nice weather for a change, so spent quite a bit of time outside.  I have the basic parts of the foremast assembled, but there's still a lot of work to do.  It will look nicer after I clean it up and paint, but I thought I'd post some pictures anyway.

 

I didn't run into any major difficulties.  Shaping the masts took time, but it only took some slight tweaking to get parts to slide together.  Here's the mast platform as it stands right now:

Here's the next level up and the crosstrees

And finally, here is the top

 

 

 

[desalgu]

I've been making slow progress on the masts.  On foremast I wrapped thread around the lower mast for the mast bands or bindings (not sure of the correct term).  I wasn't that happy with how they turned out.  It was hard to get them straight and where the threads begin and end are not as clean as I'd like (but I'm not patient enough to redo).

 

I put a coat of satin WOP on, and usually I like it, but it has too much sheen on the masts.  I'm going to put a coat of matte acrylic over it to reduce or eliminate the shine.

 

So far I've focused on the foremast.  

Here are the cleats just above the mast platform.

I've made the platform rail and test fit it, but decided not to glue it in until later.  Here's kind of what it will look like

And here's the crosstrees and upper part of the mast

I've started shaping the mainmast parts and will be assembling it before too long.  

 

[Gregory]

9 minutes ago, desalgu said:

the mast bands or bindings (not sure of the correct term).

Those are called " wooldings " ...   Don't ask me why.😁

[DelF]

Looking very neat David, especially your wooldings. Following Gregory's post I couldn't resist looking it up. According to the OED woold (first noted in English around 1616) is derived from earlier German and Dutch words meaning to wrap a rope or chain round something to strengthen it. Hence woolding refers to the resulting wrapping as well as the act of wrapping it..

 

 Derek

[glbarlow]

Very crisp work, nice and clean paint work. Well done!

[desalgu]

I never would have guessed wooldings, and it's kind of funny, the spell checker doesn't even know about it!  I looked up mast binding and mast bands, but didn't find anything.  Thanks to Gregory and Derick for educating me (once again 😅)!  

 

This one is so unusual, I might actually be able to remember it.  Learning the ropes isn't something an old landlubber like me is good at!

 

 

 

 

[desalgu]

I've started stropping blocks and placing them on the foremast.  I used some techniques from @DelF and some from a book "Rigging Period Ship Models" by Petersson. The Speedy build log by @DelF has some great details showing how he does it.  His build logs and those by @glbarlow are wonderful.  

 

The foremast has a 5mm single block attached just below the platform.  I used 0.5mm thread from the kit and seized it with some very fine Semperfli fly tying thread (30/0).  This thread is about like a hair and I've found it pretty difficult tor work with, and I feel like it's too small for seizing.  I ordered some 18/0 thread, which I plan to use in the future, and I think it will be about right.

 

I used Quadhands to hold the block and main thread.  I start by tying a simple overhand knot with the fine thread around the two main threads and put a small drop of CA on it with a straight pin.  Then I grab both ends of the fine thread, tighten, and try to work the knot as close as possible to the block.  It takes a good 15+ seconds for the CA to set, so there is plenty of time to try to get the knot close to the block.  I attach a small clothespin to each end of the fine thread to provide some tension and let it dry a little while.  Then I take one end of the fine thread and wrap it around the two main threads 5-10 times, and add another drop of CA, put the clothespins back on and let it dry. It looks like:

In the above photo, you can see I created a small eye on one end of the main threads.  I used the method shown by  @DelF and I think I used a #68 drill bit to seize the thread around and create the eye.  I tried a larger wire at first, but it was too big.  Using drill bits, you can choose whatever size works best.  His ideas are always clever!

 

I used the eye and loose end of thread to attach the block to the foremast.

It's a little hard to see in the photo, but the loose end and eye are wrapped around the mast, and the loose end is placed thru the eye and pulled tight.  I should seize it, but instead put a drop of CA on it to secure it.  At that point it was too tight to try to get fine thread or needle under the larger thread to wrap and seize, so I decided it was good as is.

 

There is a deadeye attached to the foremast at the lower end of the mast.  In this case, I made eyes on both loose ends of thread as shown on the left:

I placed the deadeye on the mast and put lashing thru the eyes to secure it.  This is where I realized that I really needed larger diameter fine thread than the 30/0 size.  The small thread kept falling out of the needle I was using to lash!  Plus it took a lot of loops and it was hard to keep them all tight.  Took me 2 tries to get it somewhat acceptable.

At the top of the foremast, there are 2 blocks attached on opposite sides of the mast.  I wasn't sure how to handle this, so decided on this approach:

I created an eye on one loose end of thread and stropped a block very close to the eye.  I stropped the 2nd block to the remaining loose end, and tried to make sure the distance between the two blocks was 4-5mm.  This should put the blocks on opposite sides of the mast if I measured everything correctly.  It's very hard for me to strop the 2nd block at a precise distance from the first, so I settled for getting it close.  

 

When I first looked at the photo, I thought I'd messed up, because it looks like the block nearest the eye isn't stropped correctly.  But I checked and it's correct, so it's just the photo that makes it look wrong, some kind of optical illusion.  I try to remember to touch up the CA with black paint before attaching to the mast.

 

The eye and loose end will go around the mast, the loose end going thru the eye.   This photo shows how it works.  The dowel is a little larger than the mast diameter, but it gives you the idea.

I'll pull the loose end tight and use CA to secure it.  It should give a fairly clean attachment and be somewhat like I think they do on real ships (landlubber's opinion).  It's certainly less clutter than having two threads wrapped around the same location on the mast. 

 

I'm making progress on the main mast.  It's almost the same as the foremast, so no need for additional photos.  The only difference is I tried putting on a coat of WOP right after I assembled the mast, before I added cleats and painted areas black.  This worked much better than what I did on the foremast, so I'll use this method for the rest of the masts and spars.

 

If rain and wind (gusts 40+ mph) continue, I'll continue to get a lot of work done on the ship!

 

 

 

[glbarlow]

9 minutes ago, desalgu said:

His build logs and those by @glbarlow are wonderful

Thank you for saying so.  You’re doing a great job with your log as well. 

[Blue Ensign]

Another fine Duchess, very nicely done David.

 

B.E.

[DelF]

Great to see you expanding your rigging techniques David, and making a fine job of it.

 

4 hours ago, desalgu said:

The Speedy build log by @DelF has some great details showing how he does it.  His build logs and those by @glbarlow are wonderful.  

Thanks - glad you find the logs useful. I agree with Glenn about your log - it will also be very helpful to Duchess builders.

 

4 hours ago, desalgu said:

 I ordered some 18/0 thread, which I plan to use in the future, and I think it will be about right.

I agree - 18/0 is fine enough for this scale. My micrometer says it's only 0.04mm in diameter, which equates to just 2.5mm (0.1") at full size. Perfect for fine whipping cord.

 

Derek

[DocRob]

Very nice work on the rigging David. I have to thank you for your immense resourceful build log, which I used as a reference for my newb build of the very same ship. 
I have to admit, that I stole one or two alterations from your log, like the brass pump outlets and the rounded mast bases. The 18 ft cutter, which I probably add (if I manage to build the tiny thing up) was planned and purchased from the beginning, though.
I will follow your rigging experiences with great interest, as this is the part of the build, where I'm completely lost and need to absorb some help from more experienced builders like you and others here.

 

Cheers Rob

[glbarlow]

9 hours ago, DelF said:

My micrometer

Everyone raise your hand if you have a tool that measures thread to .04 diameter 😜 

[DelF]

✋

[desalgu]

I notice only one hand  😂

[desalgu]

I've finally got around to posting a few more pictures.  I haven't been doing much on model ship lately.  There were too many other distractions this week, doctor appointments, yard stuff, and most important a new Byrnes table saw.

 

The topgallant yard lift blocks went on the foremast like I thought, pulling thread thru the eye to tighten as shown previously.

For the topsail yard lift blocks and topsail ties, I seized a block to the end of some thread, put thread thru the gap between the two masts, and then seized another block on the other side.  I had to do this on the mast, so it was difficult to get it seized at about the right distance so the blocks would hang right (or what I thought was "right").  It took 2 tries on the first one.  

 

I didn't loop the thread around the masts.  This would have made it easier, but not as clean looking.  It was unclear to me how this was done on a real ship.  They may have looped each block around the mast, I wasn't sure.   I put the tie blocks between the first two crosstrees, and the lift blocks between the last two crosstrees.  This positioned the tie block forward of the lift blocks which is how I interpreted the plans.  I used a little CA to keep them there and hanging like I wanted.   There's sure a big difference doing this away from the mast versus on the mast, and it would be even more difficult if the mast was on the ship.

The manual for the Duchess is very detailed with lots of photos when building the hull.  But there's fewer photos and descriptions for masts and rigging.  You have to rely on the plans and other information, and sometimes just decide how to do something yourself, what looks "good" to you.  

 

[desalgu]

I ordered some fly tying thread in several sizes and received them recently.  I thought people might be interested in what I discovered.

 

I found there really isn't much difference between the sizes I ordered.   I've been using the Nano Silk 30/0 which is extremely fine thread (for some reason I can't find the spool despite my work area supposedly being neat and organized 😅).  

 

Here are the new ones.  I could not visually see any difference between the 30/0 and 18/0 sizes.  They appeared to me the same.  I don't have a micrometer to measure the diameters, so am going by visual appearance.  The 12/0 size is ever so slightly thicker, and the 8/0 size is obviously thicker but would still work.  I did discover the Nano Silk thread in larger sizes tends to unwind, come apart, or "fuzz" when handled.  I didn't have this problem with the tiny 30/0 size.

 

I also got a spool of 18/0 classic waxed thread and it stays together and doesn't easily unwind.  I'm thinking I'll use it for seizing blocks and see how it goes.  If it works, I may order the same thread in larger sizes so I have some choices on what to use.

 

[glbarlow]

15 hours ago, desalgu said:

You have to rely on the plans

That’s pretty common for rigging. On quality models like Vanguard that’s really all you need, or for me it is anyway.  
 

I consult other build logs, sometimes even different models to sort it out, then try to explain as best I can how I did it. When that and looking at my copies of the many books often posted fail I go look at @DelFlogs😁

Edited June 12, 2022 by glbarlow

[allanyed]

David,

Thank you for posting the silk information.  Do they/you have these sizes in tan colors for running rigging as well?

Tx!!

Allan

[desalgu]

1 hour ago, allanyed said:

David,

Thank you for posting the silk information.  Do they/you have these sizes in tan colors for running rigging as well?

Tx!!

Allan

Hi Allan,  I know they have the waxed thread in a bunch of colors on amazon, because I just looked it up.  The beige looks like tan.  There's also a brown and a dark brown.  A lot of other places sell it besides amazon.

 

[desalgu]

I think I have all the blocks shown on the plans attached to the foremast, so here's some pictures.  I've just started working on blocks for the main mast.   The photos show the blocks around the foremast platform from different angles.  I'm going very slow.  Gradually getting better seizing blocks and making eyelets.  

 

One thing I learned is to seize blocks to eye bolts before you glue eyebolt to the mast platform.  That way you can use quadhands.  Even if eyebolt is accessible up under the platform, it's so much easier if you can use quadhands and do it offline.  

 

I haven't figured out quite how to seize blocks to eyebolts without making them look a bit clunky.  Perhaps thread I'm using is too for the small blocks.  Something doesn't look right to me, and it ends up looking a bit like a wad of thread between the eyebolt and block.  I'm trying to seize the block closely to the eyebolt, as close as I can.  Perhaps it's ok to let the block hang slightly away from the eyebolt.  I think even an extra 1/16" or slightly more would make a difference.

And here's one last photo of the blocks on the crosstrees.

 

[desalgu]

I've been very slowly working on the masts.  I think I have them finished with all the blocks attached.  The mainmast is similar to the foremast, but with different blocks attached.

The mizzenmast is shorter and does not have the crosstrees.  

[desalgu]

I have the bowsprit structure assembled and took some photos before painting the center part black and adding the blocks.  I'm tapering and shaping all the masts and yards by hand with files and sandpaper.   

[DelF]

7 hours ago, desalgu said:

I'm tapering and shaping all the masts and yards by hand with files and sandpaper.   

...and making a fine job of it too!

[glbarlow]

Old school doing it by hand. I agree, very nice work

[desalgu]

Thanks Derek & Glenn!  It's definitely old school, and I'll be adding more tools in the future.

 

This time of year I get distracted, so have been going slow.  I think I've got all the blocks and deadeyes mounted on the bowsprit, and I've started tapering the yards.  

 

The only trouble I had was with the 4-deadeye "structure" with 4 deadeyes tied around the bowsprit.  I tried seizing the deadeyes and spacing them apart, so they would end up in the right place when wrapped around the bowsprit like this.  

But I had difficulty measuring the distance between the deadeyes and then seizing them at that distance.  Either I'd measure a little wrong or the distance would change after seizing.  It was easy to be slightly off.  Took me 2 tries and I decided it was good enough.  

 

Here are some pictures of the blocks and deadeyes on the bowsprit.  I thought some additional photos might help someone else building the same model.

[glbarlow]

Well done, your spars, masts, rigging and seizings are all very tight and crisp.  Excellent photography as well!

[desalgu]

Thanks Glenn!  I'm trying to learn from Derek.  His rigging methods are amazing, and doubt I ever get anywhere near what he does.  At least I feel like this effort is better than my last model.

 

I got all 10 of the yards tapered, and here's a couple of foremast yards  The pear wood dowels used for masts and yards have different shades, some darker, some lighter as you can see.  It doesn't matter for the yards because these will all be painted black.

 

All of the yards are tapered from the center except one on the mizzen mast that is offset a little.  I tapered as shown on the plans, and didn't add an octagonal center, partly because I wasn't sure how to accurately make that shape with the tools I have.  Also with the yards painted black and all the rigging in place, I don't think you would be able to see an octagonal center section.  

I'm now adding cleats to the yards.  These are tiny laser-cut parts and, like all laser cut parts, when you cut them from the sheet are not smooth along the edge where you cut them.  I glued them to the yard as is, and then lightly sand the edge smooth.  I thought about filing an inner round to the edge that is glued to fit the round yard, but the pieces are so small I couldn't hold them.  I think the medium CA will fill the gap.

 

 

 

 

[desalgu]

I took a break from the yards to route the anchor rope from the hatch around the windlass and thru the hawse hole.  I also test fit the masts and bowsprit.  You can see the bowsprit above.  Two of the masts fit perfectly, and I had to do a tiny bit of filing for the mainmast to fit.  I had to do quite a bit of filing to get the bowsprit to fit.  I think I'm ready to get them aligned and glued in.