HM Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 by glbarlow - Vanguard Models

[glbarlow]

Welcome to my HM Flirt build log. This sister ship of the more famous Speedy is a Vanguard Models product and Chris Watton design. For those of you who joined me on my build of Chuck Passaro’s HM Cheerful I'm letting you know up front I’m taking a more casual approach to this log. One reason is while I enjoyed doing it, my Cheerful log took almost as much time to prepare as it did to build the model. There I felt like so much of it was a new discovery for me or a skill I didn’t have when I started, I wanted to share it all, and as I noted in that log, to motivate others to embark on their own Cheerful build.

 

As for HM Flirt @James H has already posted an outstanding build of this vessel, his log and photos are amazing. In addition @DelF has a terrific log for his build of HM Speedy. While the models represent two different actual ships, they are similar for model construction. I highly recommend Derek for his clever techniques and build quality.

 

 

So if you didn’t stop reading or already deleted your checkmark in the ‘follow’ column I hope I can entertain you a bit as I move through the build. I feel a little bad, Chris was kind enough to ship me the first Flirt, Master Shipwright Edition kit sold. He marked that occasion by sending this laser engraved board with the kit. I had elected to start Cheerful first so I’m not the first kit started, or even close to it.

 

 

James’ log provides a detailed layout of the box contents, I won’t repeat that here, but I do want to highlight a few things. Any builder starting their first model or enjoying their tenth should buy from Vanguard Models. From basic to advanced (I’ve already ordered HMS Sphinx) Chris provides the best pure boxed kit available. His designs are innovative, the accompanying instruction manual is thorough and detailed with both text and photo descriptions of every step, the many plan sheets are precise and comprehensive, the PE is plentiful and equally innovative, he includes accurate resin cannons, and as an option a beautiful pear block set. On top of all that the wood, both laser cut sheets (he does it himself) and strip wood are of the best quality. No brittle, discolored walnut breaking apart before you can use it. While the regular version is pear (a beautiful wood for modeling), the Master Shipwright edition is all boxwood. There is nothing like opening up the package and seeing all that gorgeous boxwood. (On a side note, I’m not sure if he’s producing any more Master Shipwright Editions, you’ll have to check with @chris watton, he’s here on MSW Forums).

 

 

Just a small diversion before moving on with the build. This is the just completed model my 8 year old granddaughter and I built over the summer. Her choice of colors and painting. She and my wife made the sails, I helped guide the build but the majority of the work is hers. I made the stand from left over Alaskan Yellow Cedar and added the brass plate to commemorate the finish.  Anyway…proud Papa.

 

 

Back to the build. I started as we all do by fitting the bulkheads to the former. The Master Shipwright version provides these in birch ply, as I shared with Chris I think prefer MDF at this scale, at least the quality of MDF in Vanguard kits. The ply isn’t the easiest to fit together and sanding takes a lot more work to get the same result on MDF. This is high grade ply made to be just as it is, quite firm and durable. I double down on gluing, first in the slots and then along the slot seams using a brush. The wood will break before these joints do.

 

-4866T

Though I didn't take a photo beforehand I thinned the deadwood and along the sternpost before adding any of the bulkheads using my finger plane and chisels (easier to do with the former laying flat). I elected to thin the area to 2mm, I still want enough for the sternpost to attach to the former. There is plenty of meat in the first planking, I can thin as needed to eventually match the sternpost to the thickness of second planing.

 

 

 

 

I added filler parts 19 and 20 to the bow area, and thinking I knew what I was doing without consulting the instructions I added part 21 next to those. However part 21 is for the stern area, not the bow. It won’t hurt anything to be there and in fact probably helps, so I just fabricated part “21b” from the bulkhead sheet scrap and added it to the stern, problem solved.

 

The instructions call for fairing these filler parts and the first and last couple of bulkheads before installing to the former. I was a bit reluctant to do this but was glad I did, especially with the unyielding ply. I used my Dremel with a sanding drum and was careful not to overdo it. This just in, wood doesn’t go back on once converted to sawdust.

 

 

I’m going to use the maple engraved deck that comes with the Master Shipwright Edition. I lightly sanded it with 320 grit, added a coat of WOP, and repeated those steps twice more. I think it looks great and for this model it will be the deck. I’ve planked plenty of decks, I’m looking forward to this simple approach this time around. The lower deck is also engraved ply, in addition to supporting the frame it adds a nice touch to what little can be seen through hatches and deck ladders. Just for fun I added red paint to this area and later to other pillars and beams partially visible on the lower deck. There’s also a door, I’m not sure if it will be seen but it’s cool knowing its there.

 

 

After first installing the four stern frame parts I added the counter. I soaked it in water, rubber banded it to a piece of PVC pipe I keep for the occasion and let it dry. I soaked it again then glued and clamped it using a round dowel, and idea borrowed from Derek, to get and keep it the designed curve.

 

 

Next up was the transom, I had to maneuver the stern frames a little to get them in the right positions, hence the extra clamps. And really why use one or two clamps when eight are so much more fun, and no the ship didn’t tilt backwards…much.

 

 

I used Titebond wood glue for everything described so far. I gave it a day to dry before moving to everyone’s favorite part of a build, Fairing The Hull. There is no overstating how important it is to take my time and do this right. It took me two days, with breaks in between, to get it done (I’ll have to note the high quality birch ply made it more fun, adding to the time). The instructions recommend using one of the lime strips as a batten, I prefer a much thinner more flexible wood strip to run along all the bulkheads (the blue tape is just for the photo), using it to identify and remove imperfections to get a smooth run. Up, down, in the middle, at the ends, 3-5 bulkheads at a time. When it contacts everything it spans without gaps I’m almost there, I do it all again because I know I missed something, then one more time after I’m sure I’m right, cause I’m not.

 

This is more obvious at the bow, very often I find the overlooked part of fairing is not stem to bulkhead 2 to 3, it’s the turn from 3 to 4/5, when the sharp bow starts to become the wider beam. Also always a challenge and a later regret if not done right is the steep slope required from the counter to about three bulkheads forward. I got the starboard right but had to fight to get the port side to comply and stay equal to the port.

 

 

 

With my dusk mask set aside and my room dust filter turned back to normal from its highest setting the frame is faired and ready for gunport patterns and the first planking.

 

I didn’t mention it, but notice other design features Chris has added. Both the lower and upper deck are also frame support, two lengths of beam are installed running fore and aft for both deck support and squaring up the bulkheads.

 

An innovation I’ve never seen is the boxwood stem piece with slots that serve as the rabit for the planking. This part is notched and slotted between the fillers, it the last thing added to the frame. It wasn’t there to be scarred by the fairing process. It is also the base for the interlocking stem that won’t be added until later, thus saving it from a beating. How many of us have scratched and damaged the stem, normally a part of the frame from the beginning. Cool stuff this Vanguard Model.

 

A few further thoughts on fairing: I leave the back edge of the char on the forward bulkheads and the front edge on the aft bulkheads as a guide when fairing to make sure I keep the hull’s proper shape. I also start taking micro-measurements of the width and height of bulkheads at the bow and stern at multiple spots to match port and starboard. It’s pretty easy to get carried away and get it all lopsided. It’s also important to not say good enough. Most if not all the char other than the edges I mentioned should be gone when you’re done.  Oh, and I think parts 21 and 21b worked out just fine once faired.

 

Gunport patterns and first planking are next. Time to get out the plank bending station. I guess I wasn't very brief after all.

[EKE]

Thanks Glenn!  It's looking great so far.

 

I just started my Flirt kit, so I'll be watching with interest.  Not sure if I'll be doing a build log, as there are quite a few Flirt/Speedy logs covering the same territory.  But I may jump in, as a build log is a way of assuring accountability. 

 

I see that you painted the bulkhead around the door to the Captain's cabin.  I have been considering doing that, but it's a bit hard to tell how much of that area can be seen through the deck hatch of the finished ship.  Can any other Flirt/Speedy builders offer an opinion? 

 

Looking good!

-Erik

[BobG]

I'm so glad to see that you decided to make a build log for your Flirt, Glenn, even if it ends up being a "Glenn lite" version!

 

I'm leaning towards starting my Model Shipwright Version of the Flirt also while trying to finish the Pen Duick. I figure with you leading the way, I'll be less likely to make a complete mess of things. Even though as Chris has designed this model to be as straight forward as possible, I still find it a bit intimidating when I look at all the guns and the complex rigging. I've never built a ship with guns and ratlines. The Medway Longboat has been my best effort so far and the rigging on it is quite simple by comparison. I also don't feel real confident in my fairing and planking abilities yet either. They're still a work in progress for me.

 

Oh well, I guess only way to learn more is to jump in so I may be following along in your wake!

 

 

[BobG]

40 minutes ago, EKE said:

Not sure if I'll be doing a build log

I'm thinking of starting the Flirt also, Erik. So if you start a build log we'll have three going if I jump in. 

[glbarlow]

10 minutes ago, BobG said:

starting my Model Shipwright Version of the Flirt

I hope you do start. It may seem a lot, Cheerful sure did for me, we just take it step by step one page at a time. Ratlines are tedious, but easy once you get going. Guns are a jig and a process. You only have to start, there’s plenty of help available.

Edited August 10, 2021 by glbarlow

[glbarlow]

55 minutes ago, EKE said:

there are quite a few Flirt/Speedy logs covering the same territory

They are covering the same model, seldom the same territory. Every model is unique and we all learn from seeing how others do the same task. You should definitely start a log. 

Edited August 10, 2021 by glbarlow

[BobG]

1 hour ago, glbarlow said:

This is the just completed model my 8 year old granddaughter and I built over the summer.

What a lovely model the two of you made, Glenn. It's wonderful that you were able to share your hobby with her. I love her color choices also!

[glbarlow]

Thank you for saying so.

 

I started to steer her towards more traditional sailboat colors but stopped myself, she loves those colors together because she chose them and she painted them. I had laid out all my various acrylics in a row - these are what she chose, Vermillion and French Blue.

Edited August 10, 2021 by glbarlow

[EKE]

51 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

They are covering the same model, seldom the same territory. Every model is unique and we all learn from seeing how others do the same task. You should definitely start a log. 

I knew someone would say this.  

 

[BobG]

29 minutes ago, EKE said:

I knew someone would say this.  

 

Jump in with us, Erik, I'll be content to bring up the rear!

[DelF]

Great to see you've started Flirt Glenn. The boxwood will make a beautiful model, and I'll be following along.

 

5 hours ago, glbarlow said:

I'm letting you know up front I’m taking a more casual approach to this log.

Thanks for the kind comments about my Speedy log. Like you, I decided that my next log wouldn't be a blow-by-blow account, but instead would focus on key steps and out-of-the-ordinary techniques. Not least because I wanted to avoid endless repetition and duplication of stuff in previous builds. However, as your first log entry demonstrates, it is not easy to be casual and brief when you are passionate about something. Your logs are so well written and illustrated, and enjoyed by so many, that I think you may just have to accept that keeping a good log is an inescapable part of an enjoyable build, and should be part of the enjoyment.

 

Of course, I may stick to my guns and keep the Duchess of Kingston more casual 🤣.

 

Love your granddaughter's build, btw.

 

Derek

 

 

[glbarlow]

5 hours ago, DelF said:

may just have to accept that keeping a good log is an inescapable part of an enjoyable build

Thanks Derek for the kind words. 

[EKE]

11 hours ago, BobG said:

Jump in with us, Erik, I'll be content to bring up the rear!

OK, I’m in.  Stay tuned.

 

[James H]

15 hours ago, EKE said:

Not sure if I'll be doing a build log, as there are quite a few Flirt/Speedy logs covering the same territory. 

There's no limit on logs of same subject

 

I'd very much like to follow your progress as I did with your fisher. Sure many others would too.

[glbarlow]

1 hour ago, EKE said:

OK, I’m in.

Great, be sure to let us know when you’re up so I can follow, your turn Bob😀

[EKE]

28 minutes ago, James H said:

There's no limit on logs of same subject

 

I'd very much like to follow your progress as I did with your fisher. Sure many others would too.

And…. having a build log gives me a conduit with which to draw all of you smart, experienced modelers into answering my dumb questions!  Be careful what you wish for, my friend.

 

[James H]

...........aaaaaaaaand, back to Flirt!

[PRS]

Hey Glen.

 

I am going to follow along on this build log also. Where's the beer?

[glbarlow]

I thought you brought the beer 😁

[smotyka]

Thank you for this log as I'm building also.  What you've accomplished so far has taken me a couple of months!  Will be looking forward to your hull planking as I'm trying not make a mess of it. 

 

Steve

[glbarlow]

Gun Port Patterns

 

Installing gun port patterns is not why I enjoy building models. I struggled getting a good fit with these four simple pieces of ply, quite a bit of fiddling about was required to get to a proper fit. When my friends see my completed models they invariably comment on how patient I must be - how little they know - especially when it comes to gunport patterns.

 

 

While it’s debatable whether this step is necessary for Flirt with its gentle curves, I always begin by tracing a top view of the bow from the plans and transferring that to a piece of lumber. I keep all the old ones, only a little sanding with the Byrnes Sander was needed to match Flirt from whatever this former was used for before.

 

 

I soaked the patterns for 30 minutes in a beer stein of hot water, clamped them to my former for an hour or so, then dumped the water and filled the stein with what it’s supposed to contain. I know its done all the time, but for whatever reason I don’t like to attach wet wood to my model, some unfounded fear of it warping the keel into a U-shape. Probably won’t happen, but why chance it.

 

 

Then the fun begins, clamping the pattern to the bulkheads, lining up their tops - which of course working in three planes isn’t as easy as it sounds. I use wood glue to give me set up time, which I need, with just a little above the deck since the tabs of the bulkhead are doomed to the scrap pile later. I had done light scoring with a razor saw earlier on the sides of each bulkhead tap to help start that later process, light being the operative word. This is the step when I once again realize I can never have enough clamps.

 

 

And here is where my impatience kicks in. Having finished the starboard forward pattern and having started the port forward I thought why not do the starboard aft piece at the same time. Don’t do that. It worked ok eventually, but clamps were flying off everywhere as I moved from one side to the other. I should have just stepped back, grabbed the appropriately filled beer stein and walked away, doing one section at a time allowing the time it takes, at least two hours, before starting the next one.

 

 

Here is where the third plane comes to play. The pattern is curved by me to match the hull, the sheer is cut by Chris to match the run of the deck, so two out of three planes are covered, the third is the rounding curve of the hull top to bottom (tumblehome or flair). I had first dry-fitted the clamped pattern and knew this was coming, so I had soaked, curved, and dried the patterns three times before gluing it on. This serves to soften the unforgiving ply enough that it can be clamped to fit the curve. I had to choose top or bottom to clamp first, I chose the top. Once that dried I added glue to the area of the pattern that attaches below the false deck and clamped again.

 

I should note that its not easy to place clamps, it’s a good opportunity to break a bulkhead tap. Fortunately I didn’t do that…this time.  I have lots of clamps but only four of these ratchet type (I've now ordered more). They work much better holding the bottom edge of the pattern as needed to curve into the bulkhead.

 

 

With the forward section done I added the port aft section - taking my time this time. The aft pieces are a much easier process, no pre-shaping needed. The key though is to line up the curve of aft end of the pattern with the curve of the counter where it meets the transom. I know I didn’t build the ship too short, the pattern is purposely long, so I dry-fit to get it lined up and marked off the extra length with a pencil. I removed the pattern and cut off most, but not all of that extra length, intentionally leaving it still a little long to sand off later. I needed rubber bands to glue the pattern to the transom, not much to clamp back there.

 

 

With everything glued on this is a good time to check the fit of the stern facia piece. It doesn’t have to be perfect, just close enough that it will match up later on top of the second planking with a minimum of sanding, it’s easier to sand now, if needed, then later.  Of course, like here, it was good I installed the counter with its curve in the first place.

 

 

 

While I didn’t get a photo of the before, the net result of all this is a well attached pattern…with waves/waffling in the area nearest the stem. I know from experience this happens and that between sanding and the second planking a little bit of wave won’t matter. Still it bugs me, so out came my best wood management tool, my travel iron. I saw Derek also did this on his Speedy. It actually works remarkably well. I just ironed, in max steam mode, the bow patterns like they were a shirt. The waves smooth and the curves look much better.

 

And with that my Flirt has its gun port patterns completed. I now remember there is life…and enjoyment…past the installation of gunport patterns. Now, I can plank. I could put the beer stein away as I won't be soaking anything else during this build...but there is its primary purpose and that may come in handy from time to time.

[BobG]

This is a excellent post, Glenn, and it will be extremely helpful when I get to this step. I've never added gun port patterns before since I've never built a model with guns. The only bummer is knowing that I will anxiously pulling out my hair when I do it and, at my age, hair is a precious commodity!

 

2 hours ago, glbarlow said:

I had done light scoring with a razor saw earlier on the sides of each bulkhead tap to help start that later process, light being the operative word.

 Do you mean that you scored each bulkhead tap at the deck level to make it easier to get the saw to I've never a follow the cut later?  

[glbarlow]

27 minutes ago, BobG said:

Do you mean that you scored each bulkhead tap at the deck level to make it easier

Glad you liked the post. I’m being a little dramatic for humor.  It’s not that tough, you’ll be fine. 

 

Yes, lightly on each side. You break them off with pliers, this just helps with a cleaner break. Again lightly is the word. 

Edited August 12, 2021 by glbarlow

[BobG]

10 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

You break them off with pliers

Is it necessary to add glue to the bulkhead taps or just lower on the gun port patterns? It seems like they might be tougher to remove if they are glued.

[DelF]

Looking good Glenn - I found the gun port patterns quite nerve wracking but you’ve come through relatively unscathed. 
 

(Bob - be reassured, they’re never as difficult to fit as you think they’re going to be. I added glue to the bulkhead tabs for extra security; they still twisted off OK). 

[glbarlow]

Yes you need the glue on the top to get the right form for the planking.  As Derek says, they break off easy enough. 

[glbarlow]

24 minutes ago, DelF said:

come through relatively unscathed

So you say 😁😂🤣

[glbarlow]

First Planking

 

With the gunport patterns completed, time to start planking.

 

 

 

Following Chuck’s “Lining the Hull” .pdfs as a guide I began the first planking by dividing the hull into two belts and marking the bulkhead markers using a planking fan. I described this process in my Cheerful log, so I won’t repeat all of that here. Granted in the case of Flirt’s small hull I don’t necessarily need to do it for this first planking, I could have covered the hull one way or another. I also acknowledge there are other methods and techniques for planking. Suffice it to say it is my opinion this is the best process to plank any hull.  I am doing it here as practice for my future Winchelsea build, where this technique is essential to single planking. Since I know I will need full planks width with from midships to stern I only lined from bulkhead 8 forward. (PS: for grins I always write my name and the start date on the former, sort of like writing your name in wet concrete I guess, no real reason).

 

 

 

 

 

I used my Byrnes Sander to sand the angle (67 degrees for the first several) to meet the bow and at the same time tilt the table down to bevel the back side to fit into the stem notch provided as part of Chris’ design. Next up, I taper the plank per the lining off plan simply using a steel rule and a #11 blade. The Swan Morton scalpel works as does the regular Excel knife version, whichever I reach for.

 

 

Then the fun part, bending the plank. I don’t soak planks. just a finger wipe of water and a travel iron at my plank bending station. I converted to this method when I built Lady Nelson, I don’t know how I’d ever have planked Cheerful without it. Again I described this process on both those logs so I won’t repeat it here. There are a series of videos Chuck has describing it in detail available here on MSW. 

 

 

Having bent the plank to fit the length of the hull, I also add a twist using the iron (and keeping my fingers clear) to fit the plank under the counter when needed.

 

 

 

Once bent, like shown here (just hanging with a piece of tape for the photo) I get a plank that will l lay right on to the bulkhead without forcing, nailing, or soaking. It seems counter-intuitive to bend down to fit up, but that’s the geometry of a bow that both turns inward in two dimensions as you move down the stem. This plank was the next one installed, where you see it is where it went.

 

 

I use only CA for planking. For what it's worth the Smith Industries version I use doesn't a strong smell, at least that I notice. These two applicator types have been a part of my work bench for years, one medium and one fine tip. I use them until they fall apart at the tip then reach for another one, they generally last for one model. The key is to maintain them standing up straight and to gently blow out the excess glue from the tip at the end of the work session. My holder was just a bit of balsa with two holes until my granddaughter decided it needed painting and a little decoration. I don’t know the purpose of the ships wheel or the cleats she added, but they are there to stay now.

 

 

 

 

 

With that the first belt is complete, now on to the second belt to finish up the first planking.  I need to sort out the deadwood area around the sternpost, the second layer of boxwood planks are only 1mm, not much room for sanding to fit. I needs to be sorted out with the first planking. Off I go.

 

PS: The white balance of these photos are all a bit wacky, Since they are pretty basic images I didn't spent much time trying to correct that.  I'll have a talk with my iPhone next time round.

[Gregory]

Excellent!  That would  serve as final planking on any ship, with very little left to do in the way of finishing..

[Blue Ensign]

Looking good Glenn,

I always follow the proper planking arrangements for the first layer, I think it gets you into the rhythm  for the top layer. 

Good training also for when builds such as Cheerful  or Winnie are taken on where there is no second layer comfort blanket. 🙂

 

B.E.