AMAPÁ 1907 by Ras Ambrioso - FINISHED - scale 1:64 - Brazilian Customs Cruiser

[Ras Ambrioso]

A little more progress. I wanted to fly the Brazilian flag on Amapá but couldn't  find anything on the online stores. I did browse Modeler12's post from 2013 explaining the process to make your own flags using transfer paper and using the Admiral's iron on fine cotton cloth. So I did. However, the flag is not very flexible as the transfer made the cloth very stiff. I used an old handkerchief and made the the transfers on both sides creating a full flag. The colors didn't come out very bright but they will have to do for the time. Shown below are the two flags I made. Forgot to put a ruler to show the size but they are 40X28 mm.

 

 

Then I dry fitted the bridge to include the poles for the awning. It's going to be a very busy bridge once I set the binnacle, the helm and the traveling searchlight.

 

Then I assembled a grating panel to place at the emergency steering station aft. I use precut strips but used too much glue that shows through the openings in the grating. I'll see how it looks after painting and perhaps made another panel. 

 

 

And finally, I painted the stack and added the fittings for the guy wires to be installed later. I was not sure of the color of the stack so I assumed it was steel like the rest of the ship and painted it grey . I added white stripes using graphic tape. And gave the stack a yellow top for contrast. 

 

 

Thanks for your likes and comments.

[mtaylor]

Looking very good, Ras.   For the flags, take an old soda can, cut it open and get it flat.  Then bend it to the shape you want the flag to be.   Then brush a good coat of water/white glue on it.   You may have to tape a bit hold in place until it drys.   Spray starch also works well.    I very strongly suggest you test any method before applying to your final flag.  You'll probably need to make a test flag or two.

[Ras Ambrioso]

Thank you Mark. I like your idea of a "solid flag". I have ben experimenting several options. The main reason this last flag didn't sat well on the staff was that the amount of ink in the transfer made it too stiff. I thought also of using color dye to get the base flag color in and then just transfer the globe in the center. But now I like your idea a lot. 

[mtaylor]

Ras, just make sure you test and re-test colors, etc.  I'm looking forward to how it goes.

[Ras Ambrioso]

Progress continues, but it is incredible the amount of time you have to spend in the smallest of details. But perhaps, that is why we do them.

Have now permanently installed the bridge and have been struggling to maintain the four legs square. Also installed the stack and the goose vents.

 

 

 

The picture below was taken before I installed the other two legs to the bridge and the goose vents over the engine room access. 

 

 

Next I will be working on the mast's rigging. Decided not to do the the running rigging. In 1907, either steam or petrol were used leaving the masts function to support communications such as flags or wireless . 

[Ras Ambrioso]

Following is the aft emergency steering station.

This is is the beginning of the main, and only, gun for this ship. Still working on the breech detaling.

And here is are the parts for the bridge wheel. BTW the wheels and binnacles were purchased, I am not yet at that level of detail.

Next are the parts for the traveling searchlight still under fabrication. I am trying to figure out how to add the wheels. It seems to me that just rolling them on rails will result in the searlight tipping over under weather.  The plans (Post # 112) show what looks like guy wires while the light is at the center of the bridge. But this would be a hard to relocate as the light is moved. The photo provided by Valeriy (Post # 114) does not show any type of anchoring system to keep the light under heavy sea. I would appreciate your comments.

The photo shows the base, spindle and the body still unfinished.

And little by little Amapá is taking shape.

Thanks for following. My best wishes for the safety of Valeriy and his family.

 

 

[Valeriy V]

6 hours ago, Ras Ambrioso said:

I would appreciate your comments.

This photo  spotlight shows the mounting  to the deck.

[Ras Ambrioso]

Thanks a lot Valeriy. Good to hear from you. we all worry about you 

Again, your extensive files saves the day. 

[Ras Ambrioso]

Completed the searchlight. The buggy wheels exceeded my 0.5 mm tolerance so I provided a roller. The searchlight still need the glazing and a good cleanup before mounting on the bridge. 

Following are the parts

 

And the finished product.

 

When the searchlight is in its place on the bridge, I will add four guy wires to secure it to the deck as shown in Valerliy photo (Post #114).

[Ras Ambrioso]

Doing what I like best which is working with my Unimat lathe. The 3 pounder Hotchkiss QF gun under construction. Next I will tackle the winch and the Downton bilge pump. The last picture is a dry fit of the parts.

[Ras Ambrioso]

Finally Amapá is armed. The gun is finished, perhaps not as sharp finished as we find on our master's work, but very satisfying to this first scratch builder.

Parts under construction:  

The assembled gun:

On deck:

Very satisfying!! 😀 Worth a beer 🍺or two 🍺🍺

Next challenges are the anchor winch and the Downton bilge pump. Tune in next week.

 

[Ras Ambrioso]

Today I worked on the Downton bilge pump. I couldn't find a proper size brass rod in my supply and used a brass screw.

Following are the the completed parts. Please note that the hand wheel is a purchased item. I am not even sure if it is a still available.

The finished product:

And its place on deck:

I will be busy elsewhere the rest of the week but, I I will continue next week with the last of the lathe works: the anchor winch.

[wefalck]

Actually, screws and nails are often not bad raw materials, as the manufacturing process hardens the brass and makes it easier to turn ... I use in particular small brass nails for all sort of things to be turned.

[Ras Ambrioso]

A little more progress. Doing what I like best which is lathe work. Being away from this for over 20 years. Re-learning how to sharpen tools. Here is the latest feat: the beginnings of the anchor winch.

Next step is to fabricate the base with the steam power and trying to scratch some teethes on the driving gears.

[BANYAN]

Very nice work Raz, I especially like the turned fittings.  I don't comment much but look in often to follow your progress.  The model is looking great with all this new detail.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Ras Ambrioso]

Things are looking good. The winch progresses.

The bollard looking things are actually the steam cylinders. At my work tolerance (.0.5mm) I am having trouble transferring dimensions to the very tiny pieces, thus, you may see a little bit of asymmetry in my work. But I am learning fast in this new world of scratch building.

 

Following is my interpretation of the anchor chain stoppers.

Since this is my first scratch building I am learning as I go. The first lesson is that you have to think about how to build all the parts. No laser cut or etched pieces with numbers to match the locations. You have to figure out how to make each and install each piece in the right sequence. Sometimes you goof, and then, you go back and redo. Sometimes you figure that is your best, and you let it pass. Perhaps you will do better in the next project. I think that this is the challenge and, may I say, the fun of it. So, for you beginners, go on, try it. Watch our masters craftsmen and learn. It is all worth while. 

[Ras Ambrioso]

Here is the final product. The forward deck is done. The stanchions and railing  and mooring bollards will come later after all the deck work is done.

The next challenge is the ladders. Two for the bridge and three for the midships.

 

Thanks for looking.

Edited May 11, 2022 by Ras Ambrioso

[mcb]

"this is the challenge and,...the fun of it."

 

Well said Ras.  Scratch building, it seems to me that one must build the kit but also build the instructions.

 

Very nice work.

Good Luck 

mcb

 

[Valeriy V]

Ras, your skill level is growing noticeably!
It's nice to watch this process.  

[Ras Ambrioso]

Thanks for the compliments. I am trying my best within my capabilities. Y'all have been a tremendous help.

[Ras Ambrioso]

Well I am back. These last few weeks I have been busy on a "volunteer" project at my building. Now that is done, I am back at Amapá. 

It is taking a considerable amount of time do some of the miniatures, specially, when I got to figure how to do it.

Having seen what people like Valerliy and Wefalk can do with soldering I have tried to emulate them. Following is my first attempt at the cross bracing for the bridge

Not too Not bad but, I am not sure I can do a clean job while working directly on the model. My hands shake too much. Therefore ,I think I will leave soldering for the next project once I practice a little more. In the meantime AC glue is doing the work.

Next I fabricated the spider webs for the masts rigging.

. 

Another fitting for the bow's stay ends.

And finally completed the bridge railings and awning frame and the forward jack staff.

A few things are still left to do, specifically the the railings, the boats , the ladders and the rigging. 

Thanks to all of you for your support and example. This model has been quite an education and, even though there are many mistakes in my work, I am satisfied and eager to complete it. 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ras Ambrioso]

Progress continues. To fabricate the stairs I found that they were too small to use the same method I used on the Fifie. So I did a web research and found the videos by Kevin Kenny on the building of the steamer Naparima. HIs videos are excellent "do-it-yourself" guides. Using his methods I completed the sideboards for my midship ladders. The steps are minuscule and I will be installing them tomorrow but I was so excited about my success that I wanted to share it with the forum. On the top of the picture is the method used. I think that the secret lies in using large wood stock, cutting the grooves on both sides by reversing the miter guide and then slicing the sideboards. The result is a bit over-scaled but I have a limit on how small I can make stuff.

[BANYAN]

You're making some great progress with nice detail.  Thanks for the 'eye candy'

 

cheers

 

Pat

[GrandpaPhil]

I like the technique for the ladders!

[Ras Ambrioso]

For the last two weeks I have been struggling with the ladders. After listening to Kevin Kenny's video I ordered a new tilting arbor saw that also permitted controlling the height of the blade. The saw that Kevin uses is a Byrnes and it is quite expensive so I went for the Microlux from Micromark. Unfortunately, the fence has to be relocated by hand and eyeball every time. Regardless, I managed to get the ladders built as shown in my previous posting. Once I tried in the model it looked awfully out of scale.

I decided  to tinker around and build a double draftsman "T" fence.

This one worked a little better but I still had trouble accurately cutting the groove while advancing the fence by hand. Then I went back online to Micromark and found they have a fence attachment called "accuriser". 

As you can see in the photo it is a sliding fence that holds parallel to the blade. Can be adjusted in 0.005" increments. It also has a draftsman T lock end. This did the job an I was able to cut the and groove the sides of the stairs closer to scale.

 

I used a jig to assemble the stair and proceeded to install the steps using a super thin walnut veneer.

All was going well until I decided to challenge the saw and try to get the sides thinner. The catastrophe stroke as the saw very cleanly broke all the steps. If you notice on the picture the grain of the veneer was running by the short sides. LOL. Back to the drawing board. 

I redid all the stairs now using paper stock for the steps and this did the job.

I have to say that it still has a fews booboos but for it looks acceptable to me.

Next I will be tackling the masts rigging and build the ship's boats. I have been thinking about making a solid wood mold and use dope and tissue to make the hull. Something like papier-maché.

Thanks for watching.

 

[Valeriy V]

Ras, your perseverance produces a wonderful result, this is an exciting process!  

 

To make a boat hull, try using a nylon female stocking and epoxy resin on a wooden block.

[KeithAug]

The final ladders are much better. Congratulations on your persistence.

[Ras Ambrioso]

Guys, thanks for the likes. I am learning this new craft (scratch building) from the very beginning since, up to now, only built kits. Your comments and support have been invaluable in my work. I like Valeriy's suggestion for the ships boats to use a hose stocking and epoxy.

[Ras Ambrioso]

My next challenge were the ship's boats. Three of them. Today I stated picking out what to use for the mold. I had oak, mahogany and balsa. After much though, I figure that balsa would be easier for the carving so I cut a block of balsa, pasted the top and side plans of the first boat, a whaler. Then I proceeded to cut out the shapes and following is the results

I sealed the mold with polyurethane and added a small tab to the bottom to allow holding the mold in the vise.

Now I have to wait for the Admiral (she is out of town) to get a used panty hose to make the first boat. I can't believe that I did all this in one morning while it took me close two weeks to complete the ladders. More to follow.

[wefalck]

The method with the ladies' stockings has been used successfully here by many modellers. So you should be on the right road.