Rattlesnake by javajohn - Model Shipways - 1:64

[javajohn]

Only 7 more belts to go. I will be taking off the next few weeks from ship modeling for some much-needed fun family time, then I'm back at it! See you all then!

[javajohn]

At long last, I finished the hull planking. I took several breaks to work on other projects, but I'm glad I made it to this milestone.

 

I still have one side to sand and there are still finishing touches to be done. I decided to show photos with one side sanded and the other not. I saw a few build logs of users lamenting on how bad their planking looked, but once it is sanded and smoothed, most of those flaws disappear.

 

The un-sanded side:

 

After sanding:

 

 

A side-by-side comparison at the bow. The curve of the planks is pretty severe.

 

And Stern. I'll do more touchup of the planks as they meet the transom planks.

 

 I'm very happy with how it all turned out, considering my skills.

 

I think I'll work on some hull details, such as finishing the windows and start considering the deck planking.

 

I'm thinking about ordering better wood for the decks. The basswood flakes and compresses easily, so there are a lot of dents in the hull that were difficult to sand out. Maybe I'll follow @Dave_E's lead and build me some cannons!

 

Cheers!

 

John

 

[javajohn]

In @Dave_E's build, he mentioned his issue with the Syren cannon carriages being too large for the model. Syren's are correct, and others mentioned that the kit's carriages are too small.

So, I figured I'd better build a test cannon to see how it fits. I'm glad I bought extra cannon kits!

 

Sure enough, most of the gun ports are too low on my model to center the gun. Fortunately, they all poke through. The photos show the worst one. However, I'm not sure how best to fix the issue. I can think of two things: cut the axle grooves deeper to lower the carriage and turn the canon upside-down (the trunnion is offset from center).

 

John

[Gregory]

John, specifically, which carriage kits do you have from Syren?

[javajohn]

@Gregory I bought six pounders based on what the kit plans specified. The dimensions are nearly the same as the carriages and cannons that came with the kit. That's why I didn't bother test the fit before I made the gunports. Here's a picture of the two sets - the Syren parts are the lighter color on top. The carriages are almost identical in size, Syrens are a tiny bit larger. The big difference is the size of the trucks - Syren's are noticeably larger, but certainly more realistic.

 

John

Edited March 18, 2023 by javajohn

[Gregory]

Thanks John.

Just to clarify, are those the 1 11/64" long - 29.75 mm barrels?  They should be a good fit.

 

I'm going to update my log shortly with my research on the guns.  I hope you and others will find it useful.

The differences are minor, and I don't want anyone obsessing over it like I did, and going to any expense for new parts.

Edited March 18, 2023 by Gregory

[javajohn]

@Gregory yes, the barrels are 29.75mm. I'm looking forward to your research!

 

I'm going to working on some outer-hull details now - the windows and railings. I've added the pieces of what I think are called hawse bolsters to the bow as well.

[javajohn]

I made a bit of progress this week. I finished the windows, hawse bolsters and the forecastle railings.

 

 

I'll hold off painting anything until the deck is done. It will need quite a bit of touchup anyway from all of my rough handling. It will take a mighty steady hand not to get paint on the windows! When that time comes, I am going to repaint the bulwarks above the quarterdeck, the molding strip and outboard cap black. Everything needs several more coats, too.

 

Next step is to start working on the decks. I had thought about using a better wood than basswood, but I'll probably just stick to what's in the kit.

 

The plans call for a ladder from the quarterdeck down to the gun deck. Based on some testing using a cutout for the stairs, looking down the opening you would be able to see much of the unexposed gundeck. So, I think I will plank some of it near the bottom of the stairs.

 

 

[Kenneth Powell]

John -

Your model really looks great. 

Love the color.

 

- Kenneth

[javajohn]

A little bit of progress this week - I built and painted all of the coamings. However, the gratings that came with the kit are trash and unusable. There is so much burnt resin on them that they can't be cleaned up.

 

So, I decided I'll make my own gratings. I'm waiting on some saw blades from Malco, and I need to get some wood. In the meantime, I'll build the deck supports for the coamings and work on other bits.

 

The instructions for the Rattlesnake and also Bob Hunt's practicum for the Mamoli Rattlesnake have you make the coamings first. Reading on this topic in the forum leads me to the conclusion that the instructions are backwards. You should make the gratings first, then build the coamings around them to ensure the gratings are flush against the coamings.  I'll do that on my next model.

[glbarlow]

I think the Syren cannons are 1:48, your model is 1:64.  Check out Vanguard models, Chris has some great looking cannons at 1:64.

[javajohn]

Hi Glenn,

 

I double-checked again and I did receive 1:64 6-pounder cannons. Chuck sells many different sizes. I downloaded and printed the plan sheet from Syren to compare. It states the scale is 3/16" to 1" and the 6-pounder is identical size to what I purchased.

 

John 

[javajohn]

I'm waiting for wood to make the gratings. I received the sawblades. In the meantime, I made the two scuttles. Robert Hunt's Mamoli practicum says they would not be gratings. I didn't put a lip on the coamings that he suggests. I'm not sure anyone will see the larger scuttle when the model is complete since it will be mostly covered by the forecastle deck, but it was good practice for me!

 

 

[Ed Ku20]

Hi John,

I started working on the cap railings.  First off, I discovered I really stink at carving!  I really like the way your scrollwork on the deck transitions turned out.  What did you use to carve yours?  I bought some micro-gouges, but cannot seem to get anything that looks satisfactory with such a small piece of wood.  I'm also frustrated because I can't find the right size piece of stripwood.  They don't make one that's 3/16" x 1/8".  That's what I need to reach from the gundeck at the step-down that's forward of the quarter deck.  Yours appears to be a bit taller, but could be the camera angle.  Hope you don't mind me seeking some guidance from you on this topic!

 

Thanks,

Ed

[javajohn]

@Ed Ku20 Thanks for the kind words! I bought some diamond dental burs from Amazon and used a dremel. Here's a link: bur set

 

They are cheap and probably won't last very long, but they work. Basswood is not the best wood for this detail. When I get ready to carve the stern carvings, I'll switch to wood more suitable for carving.

 

I don't remember precisely, but I recall I used some of the leftover wood from the billets used for the bulkheads to create those pieces.

[javajohn]

I used my Jim Byrnes saw to create the grating pieces. I have the micrometer accessory for the Byrnes saw which was put to good use adjusting the fence for each cut. I must say the Jim Byrnes saw is just incredible for this type of work. I've never done it before and found it was pretty easy to do.

 

The only real issue I had is the saw blade I bought is probably too fine both in kerf and number of teeth. The blade I used to cut the pieces out is a 3" 280 tooth blade. The maple burned slightly which means I should have used a blade with a lower tooth count. I went ahead and completed them, though, since the burning is very minor. The blades I bought are 0.025" kerf, so this would translate to about 1.6" square holes for the grate at scale. I'm wondering if that is too small? 

 

Next step is to cut the 0.025"x0.025" strips that lay in the grooves. That will be a challenge since my stock is 1/16' thick. I need to get that down to 0.025" and don't have a thickness sander.

Edited May 9, 2023 by javajohn
clarification

[javajohn]

I got more time to work on the gratings. Here's my attempt. This is the largest one, and it turned out pretty good, considering I've never done this before. I broke a few of the tabs while inserting the ledges between the grooves.

 

The grating isn't glued in place yet, as I am still wondering if is too fine for the scale.  Should I just go with it, or remake them at 0.03 inches (my other saw blade thickness)?

 

I also need to smooth the edges of the coamings and repaint!

 

[allanyed]

For the future, it is easier to make these in part as they were made full size.  Using a method the same or similar to that described by Bernard Frolich in The Art of Ship Modeling  works very nicely if you have a saw like your Byrnes saw.  This is described in earlier posts and the below may help.  The openings varied but were usually more than 2" square and less than 3" square.  The battens and ledges would be the same widths as the opening.  Keep in mind that the battens run fore and aft and the ledges athwartships.  The battens are thinner than the ledges.

 

 

The coamings and head ledges are a different story.  The head ledges often/usually had a camber as did the gratings themselves.  The corners were usually rounded from the top to what would be the top level of the deck planks.  

 

Edited May 17, 2023 by allanyed

[javajohn]

@allanyed thank you for that fascinating information. The techniques you show seems to me will produce much more accurate gratings and are far simpler and less prone to screwups than the techniques I used. I also had the direction backwards. I thought the battens went athwartships; some of my modeling books show pictures that are incorrect.

 

Based on your post, my 1.6" gratings are way too small. I have some 0.04" kerf blades that would scale to 2.6", right in the sweet spot.

 

So, I'm going to remake them using your techniques.

[allanyed]

20 hours ago, javajohn said:

So, I'm going to remake them using your techniques.

Wish I could take credit for developing this method but I learned it by experimenting with the method Frolick details in his book The Art of Ship Modeling.  This is discussed elsewhere here at MSW and some tips on avoiding problems of wandering cuts is covered.  Go to https://modelshipworld.com/topic/28125-17th-century-british-galley-friggot-by-allanyed-164/page/2/#comment-826241 and see posts #52 and #53 about yawing issues.

Allan

[javajohn]

I finally had a few hours to spare and finished the gratings. I used the technique that @allanyed mentioned above, and the results are much better than my previous attempt. The new gratings are to scale too, so look much better. I didn't put in the camber on the ledges; I will attempt that on my next model.

 

I have the sliding table for the saw, so I built a jig to fit it. This made the cuts more precise. No worries about yawing!

 

Old vs. New: Gratings 2.0 now with squarer holes!

 

And here is the final set of hatches and gratings. Maple may not have been the best wood to use because the grain really shows up, but it is still much nicer than the burned up cherry that came with the kit! I am very pleased with the results, and I learned a lot making them!

 

[javajohn]

It's been a while since my last post, so I thought I'd better give an update. I started making progress on the deck, painted the railings, and drilled the hole for the bowsprit. I discovered the hard way that power tools aren't well suited for making holes in the ship - one slip and a large area can be ruined, so I drilled a small pilot hole and then used files to get the hole to the proper size.

 

I've not planked a tapered deck before, so this will be a challenge for me. The Chappelle plans are washed out and didn't print well, so I'm guessing about how it tapers at the bow. I think I have it figured out based on other build logs and some of the tutorials on the site.

 

I also purchased an Ultimation manual disc sander that you can see in the background of one of the pictures. It works great for squaring up the ends of the planks and allows for very precise and controlled sanding to length. I'll spring for a Byrnes disc sander someday!

 

When I started painting the railings, my thumb was where it should not have been! I broke the railing (twice!).

 

 

Bowsprit test fit. I don't think I will need to install the bowsprit before planking the forecastle deck, but I will check all that after the gun deck planking is complete. You can also see my silly Lego jig to hold the ship 🙂 It is getting close to the time when I'll need a proper jig (or final stand) to hold the ship up.

 

 

 

Here's a picture of the planking so far. I did what the instructions recommend and installed the hatches with supports first and then planked around them. That made it a bit more difficult to get the initial run of the planks to line up. In hindsight, it would have been better to install the first two planks from bow to stern first and then cut out the sections for the hatches, install the hatches, and only then continue with planking around the hatches. That would ensure everything lined up.

 

I decided to plank some of the area past the quarter deck because the decking might be seen from the stairwell on the quarterdeck. I'm not sure about that, but adding the additional planks is trivial.

 

 

 

 

[Kenneth Powell]

Nice recovery, she looks great.

It seems like every part is fragile. I can't count the number of times I've had to make repairs.

 

- Kenneth

[javajohn]

I finally finished planking the gun deck. It turned out better than I expected, so I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Basswood is soft and the edges of the planks could "dent" if I wasn't careful; just a slight bend the wrong way or applying too much pressure with a pair of tweezers while placing the plank could ruin it! That happened to me more than once.

 

I used the pencil lead method to mimic the caulking between the planks. It turned out to be a bit inconsistent and a bit light, but I think once I apply a finish it will look good.

 

The planking under the forecastle deck would have been more of a challenge had I not removed the beams. I didn't bother fixing the area around the bowsprit because it really won't be visible. I also didn't bother too much with the planking under the quarter deck because it will only be visible from the ladderway.

 

The photos show it unfinished. I think I will coat it with wipe-on poly to protect it and bring out the seams.

 

 

 

Next up: chesstrees, anchor pads, hull painting, then I think I'll work on the screen bulkhead which should be a fun project.

 

[Gregory]

I really like the way you removed the foc'sl deck framing.  Makes a lot of sense.  I will be using that idea..

[javajohn]

I discovered I made a bonehead mistake with the steam grate while studying the plans to see what to do next. I completely missed the fact that it is offset to the port side, not centered. 

 

The repair would require reinstalling 5 planks. Leaving it as-is won't make much difference to the finished model since the grate will be largely obscured by the ship's boat. I'm leaning toward not fixing it. I'm not building for complete accuracy anyway. When you guys make such mistakes do you let it slide, or try to fix it?

[Ed Ku20]

1 hour ago, javajohn said:

When you guys make such mistakes do you let it slide, or try to fix it?

Hi John, the deck planking and hatches look great!  I don't think I would change it if it was my model.  No one will know the difference and you would need to reinstall too much stuff.  It depends on how aesthetically "dis-pleasing" the problem is to me! For example, I was not happy with the way the molding strips looked after I glued them in.  I removed them and redid them.  99% of people would never notice, but, I knew I could do better.  Your mistake is simply a blueprint mis-read that will not impact the rest of the ship.  The end result looks very professional and I see no reason to change it!  Just my humble opinion.

[javajohn]

Thanks @Ed Ku20! Yes, we have to pick our battles 🙂 For some reason, there are mistakes that will bug me to no end and I hvae to fix them even though I will be the only one that notices. My Wife's #1 comment on my models when I show her what I'm doing is "No one will ever see that!"

 

Two more updates:

 

I put some WOP on the deck and now the caulk lines really stand out much better. I'm quite pleased with the result.

 

I completed the chesstrees and test fitted them. I wasn't sure about the shape, but this is what I came up with. I'm debating how to paint them - black or yellow ochre. I've seen some models where the anchor pads, chesstrees and ladder steps were black, others yellow. The navy museum model has them the same color as the bulwarks (yellow ochre).

[javajohn]

We took a few weeks off to go visit our son and daughter-in-law in Anacortes, Washington. It was nice getting out the 110+ degree temperatures of Phoenix! We are planning to move up there next year as I get closer to retirement. I work remotely and my employer is fine with me moving to Washington, so the preparations are beginning! Anyway, I'm now back to modeling a few hours on the weekends.

 

I finished the anchor pads.They are constructed from 1/32"x 3/32" planks.

 

I then got an itch to try creating a gunport lid. Because I plan on having the lids closed, I will have to make each one individually; I didn't make the gunports the same size. I cut the lid from the 3/64" x 1" basswood strip. I covered the gunport with cellophane tape to mark the port corners and used that to transfer the wood strip and cut it out. Once I was satisfied with the fit, I painted the lid. I used a razor blade to  score the plank edges by pushing down slightly and then rocking the razor blade back and forth a few times.

 

I cut some 0.3mm thick brass into 1.1mm strips and used some Jewler's pliers to bend a small curl at the end to suggest a hinge and used a dremel to clean it up a bit.  I used Brass Black to blacken the hinge. I think for this model, the results will be good enough even though the hinge isn't really "complete". It's a bit beyond my skill to attempt a full hinge, but I'm quite satisfied with the result!

 

I've ordered some maritime blue paint from Liquitex because I really like @Ed Ku20's color scheme on his Rattlesnake. Before I complete the gunport lids, I'll install the ladder steps and finish painting the hull.

 

 

Creating the gunport lids:

 

The lid test-fitted:

 

The anchor pad:

 

 

 

 

[Kenneth Powell]

Proto lids and hinges look great.

Color is perfect.

 -Kenneth