HMS Winchelsea by cdrusn89 - FINISHED - 1/48th

[cdrusn89]

Channels, deadeyes and chainplates completed on port side.

 

Added the gangways and decking to both sides then added the last eight cannon amidships. And yes the decking on the port side has a dip near the center. Hopefully I can "fix" this without having to redo the entire piece but if it comes to that so be it.

 

I also upgraded the lighting in the new workshop (aka the "office" on the plans) so I can actually see what I am doing. Girlfriend offered me sunscreen when she saw it for the first time.

 

Here are the gangways and cannon.

 

A word of caution (don't ask me how I know this); the deadeyes are kinda fragile and can be broken off without much effort while cutting the molding for the swivel gun stands or similar task near the channels. A drop of medium CA can reattach the deadeye but depending on exactly what failed the chainplate may also require "mending".

Edited December 20, 2023 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

Port side Chapter 11 completed - swivel gun stanchions and newel posts and fancy railing.

 

I will not add the actual swivel guns until everything else is complete. Too easy to snag one while working elsewhere.

 

I decided to dispense with four of the swivel guns, the two aft of the foremast shrouds and the two in the stern. So this model will only have four swivel guns on each side. Captains choice.

 

FYI - while working on the newel post and railing I broke the forward most deadeye - again. This time I had to replace the entire assembly. Not nearly as easy with the channel already attached to the hull but I managed. Luckily I still had a few extra deadeyes already assembled, tumbled and WoPed.

 

Next on this side is to "fix" the railing atop the quarter gallery. I do not believe there is any more work that will endanger these rather delicate structures - but I have thought that before.

 

Edited December 22, 2023 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

For some reason that I cannot recall I decided early on to include a ship's boat on the deck on my model.

 

I already have the long boat built (from the Model Expo 18th Century Long Boat kit) but now need to add the deck beams that will carry it. Luckily the drawings show these deck beams so I did not have to guess where they went. I had extra cherry deck beams since I used both cherry and AYC deck beams.

 

So I carefully laid two pieces of masking tape on the workbench and marked where the beams should go according to the drawing and where the aft end of the walkway planking should be.. I used a small square to make sure the lines were perpendicular to the tape.

 

I put the tape on the walkway and had to move one side just a little bit (like 1 mm) so that they "looked" perpendicular to the centerline.

 

Here are the beams just sitting on the walkway. I am going to drill a small (.025") hole in the walk way where the beam centers are and use black laser board to simulate the "crutch" that holds the beams above the walkway as shown on the drawing.

 

I have the holes in the starboard side done now.

 

Port side next.

Oh, and I fixed the railing on the port q-gallery save some WoP. On this side the vertical pieces were still intact, just had to clean things up, add the very tender center pieces and the top rail. On the starboard side everything but the lower rail is "gone". Will require a bit more effort.

 

 

 

Edited December 22, 2023 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

I must have missed the section where the railing around the main passageway was installed.

 

Unlike the two previous railings I used 1/16X1/16 boxwood for these rather than the 3/32X3/32. It is hard (for me) to tell the difference but the small ones are probably more in scale.

 

I used the Dremel to fashion the stanchions as before but bearing in mind the smaller cross section I was conscious not to use too much pressure and let the file do the cutting. Getting four that were nearly identical was no easier - I think I made 10 before I had four that were close to identical.

 

I drilled #72 (.025") holes in the center of the bottom and all the way through the upper square cross-section on all four and then a hole perpendicular to the first one but not all the way through on two stanchions.

 

I threaded a piece of .025" phosphor-bronze wire into the center hole in the bottom of all four stanchions and the through holes on the pair with two sets of holes - these will be the stanchions parallel to the opening.

 

I drilled a #72 hole in the hatch coaming on the forward side of the hatch and set the two forward stanchions in place.

I adjusted the location of the stanchions to get them vertical and then used a drop of thin CA to hold them in place.

 

In the photo above you can see the installed set and the two that will form the sides of the railing

 

I used a similar procedure to mount the other two stanchions but first adjusted the wire so that it was just short of touching the forward stanchion. When I had the stanchion glued in I very carefully slide the wire so it engaged the hole and used a drop of thin CA to secure the wire to the stanchion.

Above is the port side stanchion in place.

 

And here are all four with the excess wire trimmed off but not yet painted.

Before I added the wire I should have used some 320 or 400 sandpaper and gotten the "shine" off the wire; hopefully without bending it. It is hard to get the paint to stick to the shiny wire - but it can be done. Something to remember for the next model.

 

And here is the "finished product".

You will have to take my word that the stanchions line up. I will remove the cover board after I get the waist deck beams installed as that will be the final items before moving on the Chapter 12 and fun and games with the heads rails, etc.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 23, 2023 by cdrusn89

[Rustyj]

Very nice work Gary.

[cdrusn89]

Deck beams completed and long boat in place (just sitting there at the moment).

 

May need to adjust the long boat position aft some and add a support on the after most deck beam. But that is for "later".

 

Now I fixed the railing on top of the starboard q-gallery, added the swivel cannon supports on the starboard side and the newel post and railing.

 

That about wraps up Chapter 11.

 

On to Chapter 12 after Christmas.

 

 

[FrankWouts]

She’s looking very good for Christmas Gary!

A nice stage to let her and yourself rest during these days.

Happy Christmas!

[cdrusn89]

Thanks Frank - a Merry Christmas to you as well.

 

Watching your Winnie come together makes me want to start all over again although I doubt I could approach your level of craftsmanship.

[scrubbyj427]

Very nice Gary! The long boat is a great addition to the Winnie and I think you may be the first to add one. Looks like you’re rapidly approaching completion. Happy new year!

 

JJ

[cdrusn89]

Thanks JJ - yes, down to all the "fun" head rails and such. Happy New Year to you as well.

 

I got the head rails assembled per the instructions- since I have both the Cherry and AYC materials I put both sets together even though I plan on using the Cherry - the AYC was "practice".

 

Once they head rails were assembled, char removed and thinned per the instructions I tried fitting them to the hull. It took a bit of "fiddling" with the forward end to get them to fit at the stem and I removed part of the fancy molding but eventually I got both sides to "sit" in position.

 

However, it was not clear to me that I could get them to return to a consistent position while fitting the head beams. The instructions suggest using rubber glue but my previous experience with it was not confidence building so I though I would try something else.

 

I carefully measured where the rail fit against the cat heads and drilled a .032" hole in the back side of each head rail and put a small piece of .032" phosphor-bronze wire in the holes. I used phosphor-bronze because it needs to be bent so the head rail will stay parallel to the hull.

 

Then I estimated where that wire would intersect the cat head and drilled a corresponding hole there.

Hopefully this will allow me to repeatedly place the head rails in position as I adjust the head beams.

 

I used by height measuring device to check that both rails were (more or less) in the same position on each side.

Here is what they look like head on.

 

Hopefully the slight difference in where they appear to be relative to the hull planking is either caused by the photo optics or will not be noticeable when all the other rails and items are added. It would appear that I did not get both sides of the hair brackets exactly aligned but there isn't much I can do about that now. Should have taken this photo months ago.

 

 

 

[cdrusn89]

Head Timbers - what fun.

 

Given my previous less than successful use of rubber cement I decided to try another approach.

 

I located where the provided head timber template would locate the forward two timbers and added a .032 phosphor-bronze pin there.

Then I drilled .032" holes in the center of each head timber and used these to locate the head timbers while trying to get them to fit under the head rails.

 

I fitted the port side aft timber and then the starboard side aft because it just made life much easier with only one variable (the height of one side of one head timber) to change during each of what was probably several dozen "fittings. With one side of one timber finished I moved to the other side of that timber, another few dozen fittings then rinse and repeat for the forward timbers.

 

One word of caution - with the beveling and notching of the timbers they become somewhat fragile.

Probably why Chuck included three sets of each.

 

Anyway, I finally deviated from the instructions and cut the notches before I did the beveling.

 

To cut the notches I followed the instructions to get the "line" of the notch across the edge of the timber and then tried to line that up in the vise so that I was cutting as close to vertically through the timber as the size of the piece and the configuration of my vise would allow.

This made it easier (for me) to keep cutting down the notch on both sides. I used a very fine flat needle file cutting on the file edge which was very close to the notch width.

 

The picture above is of the after head timber as my photos of the others being filed did not turn out as well as I had hoped.

 

So here is the forward head timber after the notches were cut but before the beveling.

I have all three sets of timbers fitted (pending one final review) and in the "paint shop" so should have them ready for "installation" shortly.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 6 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

Head timbers are in place.

 

Now the lower rails which I hope I have correctly templated before committing to adjust the "real" rails.

 

Then the cover boards and some touch up painting and filling the hole in the middle timber.

Edited January 9 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

Cover boards on starboard side installed.

 

The Cat Head support knees are causing me a significant level of difficulty. I decided to get the starboard side completed on  the cover boards, cat head support and the fourth head timber before I start the port side. I am on my third attempt at the upper portion of the cat head support on this side. Can't afford another without more materials.

Edited January 13 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

Starboard side cat head support in place and frieze applied.

 

On to the fourth head timber. and yes, I fixed the frieze at the top before the glue was completely set.

Edited January 13 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

Starboard side head timbers and associated "stuff" completed.

 

On to the port side and then the Head gratings and REALLY small thin pieces.

[cdrusn89]

Starboard side head timbers (all 4), cat head support and middle rail completed.

 

 

 

 

Head gratings (except for the ones outboard of the heads) completed but much paint touch-up required. I will wait until I get the last for grating pieces in place then (hopefully) get all the black touch up at once.

 

Getting close to the finish line now!

 

FYI - while the monograph says there are plenty of grating pieces to do all that is required I must be a paragon of wasteful as I used almost twice what came with the Chapter 12 materials. Just saying.

Edited January 19 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

First round of touch-up paint done and the false rails are on.

 

I decided to leave the rails natural except for the inside esurface which I painted black. And I opted for no frieze.

 

I have the other two heads, the bumpkins and the stern lantern left to go. I already have the stern lantern built so it in just mounting that is required. Plus I almnost forgot the elm tree pumps - I did not install them previously due to damage possibility but now seems like a good time to get them in place.

 

By the way does anyone know where, exactly the bumpkins go. I can't find them on any of the drawings and the monograph only shows them in a few pictures.

Edited January 20 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

My Winnie is FINISHED!!!

 

I would update the blog title to reflect that if I could remember how to do that - once every 12 - 18 months is not frequent enough to get that in the long term memory - it least at this age it is.

 

Here are a bunch of pictures before she goes in the display cabinet.

 

And here she is in her new home.

And here is the fleet - or most of it anyway.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 22 by cdrusn89

[Freebird]

Excellent! Very nicely executed! 
 

Question - where did the longboat come from?

 

Best Regards …. Rick

[westwood]

Excellent work Gary and the long boat is really a great improvement.
Congratulations on the completion,
Awesome Fleet!

[cdrusn89]

Thanks Rick and Dusan.

 

The long boat is the Model Shipways 18th Century Long Boat kit (MS1457CBT). It was the only 1/48th scale ship's boat I could find. I would have put two on (like the Confederacy model) if I could find one a slightly different length than the Model Shipways kit.

[scrubbyj427]

Very nicely done Gary, congratulations! A great addition to your fleet.

JJ

[cdrusn89]

Thanks JJ

[Rustyj]

Wonderful work on the Winnie and that's a great shipyard!

[Ryland Craze]

Congratulations on finishing your Winchelsea and it is a nice addition to your collection.

[Wacom]

Well done👌👌 great display of model ships

[cdrusn89]

Thanks Rusty, Ryland and nzreg.

 

Working the Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack now waiting for the HMS Speedwell from Syren to come "on line".

[Old Rentner]

As is pretty obvious I am a complete novice!  I found this log and was absolutely fascinated.  Your attention to detail was unbelievable and the finished model, to me at least, is just amazing.  Congratulations.  I expect your room decorating is pretty wonderful too?

 

As someone who knows very little about wood boat building I have a couple of questions, if I may?

 

Why do you leave the space indicated with the arrow all around the bow?  I know that later the space is hidden by planks but why is it left?

 

 

Secondly what or why is this mark on the hull?

 

 

Thank you for a fascinating, honest, most detailed build log about such a wonderful model.

Edited February 7 by Old Rentner

[cdrusn89]

Old Rentner - Thanks but there are other examples of Winchelsea on MSW much better than mine.

 

As to your questions - there is not an intentional gap between the lodging knee (the one running parallel to the beams) and the bulwark - there is a piece of bulwark planking between the outboard end of the knee and the  exterior framing. Part of what looks like a gap is the shadow of the bulwark.

 

Here is a picture showing the bulwark sheathing with only one beam and set (one lodging knee - aft of the beam and one hanging knee-forward of the beam) of knees added. You can see the edge of the sheathing extends inboard of the exterior framing. The lodging knee in this case is up against the bulwark sheathing and that was my intent for all of them, although I probably did a better job on some than others.

The mark on the hull is the forward edge of an additional layer of planking that is placed there (and shaped the way it is) to add extra protection to the hull while the anchors are being raised (fished is the nautical term).

 

The anchor cables passed into the hull through the one of the two holes (ships typically carried two anchors on each side so that is why two holes) at the  left edge of the picture and were raised (or lowered) from the "cat head" which is the wood colored item (with three slots in the upper surface) just above and a little forward of the closed gun port.

 

As the anchor was raised if it moves aft of the cat head (like if the ship is moving forward, even slowly )then it is possible (maybe likely) that while trying to raise the anchor it would impact the ship's side possibly doing damage.

 

Here is a picture showing the anchor stowage position on the USF Confederacy - it is easy (for me at least) to see how getting the anchor up to this position could put some parts of the ship's sides "at risk" of being gouged by the anchor flukes.

 

Hope these answers help and I would be happy to answer any others you may have.

 

 

 

Edited February 8 by cdrusn89

[Old Rentner]

Thank you.  The USF Confederacy looks like another beautiful model.