Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75

[riverboat]

Looking good!! Michael.........

 

Frank

[md1400cs]

Mates,

 

George, Nigel, Edwin, Frank thanks for your so nice comments.

 

Paul S, thanks so much for following along. Very nice of you, I have been re-miss in not thanking and acknowledging members whom are interested in this build, and have chosen to get updates J

 

Mark. Thanks, but your beautiful completed rigging along with FrankM, and Karl, will be my guides in this very new area for me.

 

------------------------

 

Frank M. YES indeed – Your post is well so perfect. Foresight was missing here for me as well. The starboard railing will survive with a couple of wood putty “fill-ins” and re drills.

 

The Port side is a mess. I knew that as I was drilling the holes too close to existing ones. I was also hoping to fix it the same as the other railing. Then noticed that the holes are not even mid-rail (rushing never works, does it?)

 

So I looked in my junk wood box and happened upon a left over railing piece that is, unbelievably,exactly the same length, to the mm, as the one that came out terribly.

 

I was out of those planks and also out of the upper top very thin cover piece. What luck!!

 

So, This should be easy. I’ll drill for the verticals first, then space the pin holes correctly Hmmmm

 

Again mates, thank so much for your interest, likes, and comments.

 

Michael

 

 

 

 

 

[md1400cs]

Lawrence,

 

Thank soo much for your "over the top" (blush) - comments, given the quality of your work I'm also really touched by your post.

 

Very kind of you. Builders such as yourself, and many others here at MSW also help me to improve my work as I learn and grow with this encompassing hobby of ours. 

 

Sincerely,

 

Michael

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Still finishing up the foremast, and as I was looking at one of the Vasa Museum plan sheets I noticed small pins were part of the mast cap braces. These pins allowed the metal braces to be removed. (Though I realized that there had to be a way of removing broken masts)

 

It gnawed at me for a way to add these details before installing the masts. Very –super small- bit of added detail, but actually simple to make, so I thought that I would share

 

So I came up with the following; pics are pretty much self-explanatory, so I will keep the post brief.

 

1) Flattened nail heads with small pliers.

 

2) Drilled holes in the center of the flattened head.

            PS: My first attempt was way off center – so used a small center punch guide to slightly indent where I wanted the     drill bit to bite.

 

3) Then used a rotary tool to flatten the sides and front edges of the new braces.

 

Had some other small nails, and I also flattened the heads using these as the pins to keep the mast braces in place.

 

4) clipped the long pins, a little thinned paint and there….

 

So super small (prob. easy to miss) added bit of details. I’m satisfied with how this worked out.

 

As always, thanks for your continued interest in dropping by.

 

Regards,

 

Michael

 

,

 

[GLakie]

Very nice bit of metal-fabrication Michael, and a great detail to add! 

[fmodajr]

Michael,

 

Awesome attention to detail! 

Well done and nice thinking "out of the box" !!

 

Frank

[popeye2sea]

Wow!  Super detailing

[EJ_L]

As always I find myself staring wide eyed and breathless when I look at the pictures of your build. The beautiful work and amazing attention to detail is inspiring. I find myself looking over your pictures again and again and each time I notice some new detail or feature that I missed the previous view. It makes me look at my own build which on the table next to me and take note of how it;s looking. Even though it is not the same ship I still question did I think to look into this or that to see haw it should look or how can I make something look better.

 

Throughout your build log you mention at how long it is taking. I feel that it should take as long as it takes to make it right. That is something that I struggled with a lot was slowing down and taking the time to make it right. I have several models that I have had to rebuild over the years as I was so unhappy with the job I did largely due to rushing through it that I could not bear to look at it any longer. I have had to repeatedly tell myself that I have the time. Slow down and learn a new and better way and be happy with the results. Seeing a build log like yours and seeing the fabulous work that it contains is proof that fast is not always better and the results are most definitely worth it.

 

Keep up the wonderful work as it truly is an inspiration to the rest of us.

[mar3kl]

That's some beautiful detail work there.

[md1400cs]

Mates,

 

Thanks so much for the likes, and just dropping in.

 

George – you are always so kind

 

Frank /Mark- Thanks - I often look back into your logs to check myself J

 

Henry - Appreciated indeed

 

-EJ – I’m so very touched by your (blush) so kind and encouraging post. I mean this very sincerely, also thanks for still following along all this time, yes it has been slow J

 

Yes – you are certainly correct rushing bits are always regrettable after the fact. We’ve certainly all been there, as you just mentioned. Hindsight is the perfect gift, isn’t it?

 

And my skills have also developed by reading and learning from other builders here at MSW. A thought that I have repeated throughout since joining, I am also very happy that some of my build ideas are useful to others as well. We so learn from each other. Again -EJ, thanks so much your inspirational post (for me as well) .

 

Regards – everyone

 

Michael

[riverboat]

Wow!...that's some pretty fancy work there Michael....

 

Frank

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Another “bit” work in progress post

 

Added the last four foremast stay ropes Pic 1

 

 

PS: I missed those before attaching the lower foremastmast cap. Noticed these four ropes and pulleys were still needed Grrrr. Had to unglue (without breaking) the cap so as to properly install those hanging ropes,

 

Now I’ve (finally) attached and glued into place the foremast. Ok moving forward J Pic 2

 

 

Then noticed that these 4 mast stay ropes work with blocks/pulleys that attach to the two chainplate rings on each side with hooks.

 

OK - but then I also saw that the 1/1 and the 1/10^th have metal rings that attach to the hooks wrapped in rope then to each of the lower 4 blocks. Pic 3 & 4

 

 

Wanted to add these rings as well. So here is my first attempt. Once I get the hang of it these rings will be easier to add and incorporate as needed.

 

STEPS:

 

Pic 5: purchased these eyelets at Amazon

 

Pic 6: Also bought aluminum and brass tubing

 

Pics 7 & 8: First attempt (with the eyelet). Inserted a nail and cut the eyelet to size needed.

 

Pic 9: Used a small pin punch to “re-round the cut bit

 

Pic 10: Now used a wide punch with hammer taps to flare the newly cut end (Amazon purchase)

 

 

Pic 11: Gave it a “look”

 

 

 

Pic 12: Now deciding between brass eyelets or aluminum. A few attempts to flare the brass eyelets resulted in rips along the side. Aluminum being much softer it tends to stretch and flare out much more nicely. Intent is to have an inner ridge so the rope loop stays put. That said the front face of the eyelets sure look perfect.

 

 

Pic 13: Now the hooks becomes the problem, Could not attach rings to these two pre-made hook types that I had available.

 

 

Pics 14 & 15: so made some up.

 

 

Last pic; this might just work out ok, after a few more sample efforts and then some flat black paint.

 

 

Again thanks so much for you visits and thoughts.

 

Cheers,

 

Michael

 

PS 2 Finally figured out how to add pics as I go along with notes Gee wizz took 2 years ha ha

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[NMBROOK]

Continually amazed by your attention to detail Michael You do know the museum model is 1/10 and you are working at 1/75

 

Have you tried annealing the brass eyelets first?they will be work hardened from the stamping process.This should stop the tearing

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[md1400cs]

NIgel,

 

Thank you - you are always so kind with your remarks.

 

Regarding scale, I do think that I have succumbed to the dark side of "having to" add tiny bits that are - so not needed, and almost impossible to see - That said, thanks I will try your suggestion, and continue with this obsession (:-)

 

PS: I hope that a torch lighter will do the trick.Thanks

 

Regards,

 

Michael

[mar3kl]

More beautiful detail.  The tackle pendants were the first rigging elements I installed on my model, and I relied on the (incorrect) kit plans; once I figured out they were wrong it was too late to add the hooks and extra blocks.

[fmodajr]

Michael,

 

As usual, superb work! It is always fun watching you come up with different ways to accomplish something or solve a problem!

 

Best,

 

Frank

[md1400cs]

Mark, some further thoughts below. I have been an avid follower of your beautiful work. 

 

Frank, also some thoughts below -I was thinking of your superb work with sails

 

Thanks Mates for your encouraging words.

 

-------------------------------------------

 

Ouch – here I go again; only looking at “what I want to see”

 

Turns out that the just installed four shrouds (not mast stays as I called them) L will have the correct hooks and blocks at the chainplates for attaching the tackles…..

 

BUT the just installed lines with double blocks should have been attached to fiddle blocks NOT double blocks - grrrrr. Mark I also feel your pain !

 

Now what should I do? Still thinking. Hmmmm.

 

My rigging may become the “Titanic” part of this build in any case. That said, I have for all intents-and-purposes nixed my “dreams” of adding sails. Skills are just not there. (I did buy the sail material) funny

 

OK done venting. Ha ha - After following those of you who have added sails to your beautiful Vasa CHEERS !  “I’m just not there”  

 

PS: Now if ONLY Vasa II got published, I might learn enough to “wing it” with sails, and certainly proper rigging.

 

PS 2: I SO appreciate all of your super nice comments, and I do feel comfortable as I have mentioned before with these posted bits of the build and, I do enjoy trying to create “ideas” for details that I have not yet seen visiting other builds.

 

I also plan, for example, to attempt building the main mast out of several main pieces a seen in Landtröm's book and from the museum mainmast plan sheet. I will try to give it the right perspective.

 

Michael

 

 

[md1400cs]

Mates,

 

Thanks for the likes. I hope to install the deadeyes and shrouds for the foremast by sometime next week.

 

JanV - so nice that you are back (sort of) with your Vasa as well (got an update). Thanks for your dropping by as well.

 

Michael

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Getting the second set of foremast chainplate deadeyes strung. Then looked at the 1/1 for a reference. Then also looked at the 1/10^th. The upper deadeyes on each are at diff. heights. 

 

The 1/1 has them rising to just above the second upper railings/ The 1/10^th stay well below. So where do I loop the shrouds?

 

Looked at other builds here, as well as the Vasa profile plan sheet. They all seem to indicate the lower positions for the upper deadeyes seem correct. I also checked Clayton’s his are lower as well.

 

So, if I decide to follow the 1/1 photo I would have to restring them all (ropes would be too short). Hmmmm. Should I write Fred H. and tell him that HE made a mistake ha ha ..... 

 

Cheers,

 

Michael

 

 

 

[popeye2sea]

I seem to remember a reference that stated the drift between the upper and lower deadeyes should be 1.5 to 2 times the diameter of the deadeye.  I do not remember where I read this though.

 

Regards,

[md1400cs]

Henry,

 

As usual You are so knowledgeable. Thanks - Sold! will stay with the lower drift (also new vocab for my "memory" list).

 

Michael

[md1400cs]

Lawrence thanks for your vote of confidence (:-)

 

 

NEW Vasa Kit coming Hmmmmm 

 

http://www.deagostini.com/it/collezioni/vasa/

 

=================

 

Click on the pages and they open up

 

http://www.deagostini.com/it/collezioni/vasa/sfogliatura/index.html

 

----------------------------------------

 

From Fred H on the Vasa Forum site (PS: his link does NOT work) so found other sources just above.

 

Hello all!

I am pleased to be able to let you know that there is a new wooden kit of Vasa now available in some European markets. It is a plank-on-bulkhead kit in scale 1:65 (finished length 109 cm). It is a partworks format, where you subscribe and receive a few pieces each week or month (depending on the market) over a three-year period. The kit was developed by an Italian company, deAgostini, who specialize in this sort of partworks approach, with the kit design and production carried out by Artesania Latina of Malaga, Spain (actual production of parts in China). The kit is being released in Scandinavia by Editions Atlas in a subscription format; it is available in Italy at newstands or by subscription. For more information, seewww.editionsatlas.se/collection/VBU/Majestatiska-vasa.html.

You will see there that the model was developed in cooperation with our museum. In reality this means that we provided the most current digital documentation of the ship and assisted in the kit design, as well as providing text and illustrations for the written material that accompanies the kit. I will be building it as it is released, and will try to post here about it.

Fred

Edited March 28, 2016 by md1400cs

[JanV]

So we can expect a lot of Vasa builders in the near future. At least a lot of people starting this kit  

I know the booklets provided with other kits like the HMS Victory and these are provide with good instructions and a lot of historical information.

[md1400cs]

Hi mates,

 

So I made a mistake (that’s new for me) – attempted to attach the first foremast shroud after having first laced the two chainplate deadeyes. You were kind in not remarking on this error J

 

It became/was too labor intensive/frustrating to loop the shroud, and also trying a “throat seize” and then adjust the deadeyes spacing.

 

Went back to visit Frank’s Wasa (fmodajr) and on his #340 he had made metal spacers. This is apparently the much-preferred method.

 

So bent wire for spacers, but in my case the upper deadeye kept rotating upside-down as I tried adding the shroud.

 

SO added this small extra metal “U” hook so that deadeye would stop rotating. Just sharing this small bit that will reduce this frustration when I do this part of the build.

 

Cheers as always

 

Michael

 

[Ferit]

Hi Michael,

Excellent as always...

But if the same wire will be used for all 8 shrouds, the upright space/distance between the upper and the lower deadeye of the first shroud differs from that upright space/distance of other seven shrouds. All have different upright distance from each other. On the eighth shroud the upright space will be minimum; on the whole look, it will be like a triangle, not two lines parallel each other... 

Edited March 29, 2016 by AlphaUrsaeMinoris

[Kevin]

I so much look forward to your updates, did I just read that you are not going to put sails on her now

[lambsbk]

From what I have been told the deadeye spacing distance is 3 times the diameter of the deadeye. Does that sound right?

[md1400cs]

Mates,

 

Thanks for your clicks and comments.

 

================

 

Ferit, yes noted, thanks for your advice. This has occurred to me, but I have not yet thought of how to make those adjustments. Yes a single wire clip length won't work. Thanks for mentioning this issue.

 

That was my reason, initially, for pre spooling the deadeyes, then lacing shrouds one at a time, adjusting as I went along. But the first one was too frustrating. So the wire clip seems much easier - so far.

 

I think that I will need to make several separate wire clips. Then use those same wires (in proper order) for the other side. This would also assure the same drift on each side?

 

Kevin, thanks for your very kind post.

 

Regarding the sails; my concerns (along with rigging) is that I will have to have them stiched by a 3rd unknown party. There is a sewing school nearby I could contract someone?

 

My only big "fear" is that if they (sails) look too "fake" and stitching is too out of scale,  it would detract from the other details I have been attempting with this build. IMHO sails actually look amazing or they look well Hmmmm. Certainly difficult. Furling (hiding) them all is also an option. 

 

I should fly to Boston and have Frank's (fmodajr) Admiral do a second set for me ha ha. The sails on his are really special ! She did a superb job. And his running rigging is well (:-)))

 

PS: I did buy the same material, and thread. He PM'd me with the source etc, We shall see. I am tempted just very unsure. I also have all the needed dimensions. Karl's (Karleop), also beautiful Vasa, with sails, shared all the dimensions in his build log. It was always my intention to fully rig it, until now....

 

Again mates thanks for your suggestions

 

Michael

[JanV]

Concerning the sails I am also following the sizes according Frank's log. I have to check again Karl's log.

 

But in order to save time and make it realistic, during the first and only trip of the Vasa only 4 sails were set.

2 on the foremast, middle one on the main mast and the lowest one on the Mizzen mast (I am not so familair with the names of the sails in English)

 

this is based on information from the museum

[md1400cs]

Jan,

 

I have been thinking about your post, interesting information. I am still vacillating back and forth regarding the sails. Though I have, finally decided to have them sewn by a "third party". Well I did buy the material and thread.

 

After, if I think that they look good enough, I will possibly move forward adding them to the masts before installation. I certainly have several excellent build logs to refer to for guidance.

 

PS: I'm a Libra so it is almost impossible to make decisions about anything ha ha 

 

As is sometimes the case with our builds, looking back-we sometimes wish we had taken more time and done things differently. After spending, going on three years on this one, I just bet that once finished I would regret not having challenged myself further by not adding sails.

 

Cheers,

 

Michael

Edited April 2, 2016 by md1400cs