HMS Sphinx 1775 by Erdict - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[Erdict]

[Blue Ensign]

I'm sure you will enjoy this build Erdict, it is a fine model to make.

 

As for emulating the builds of others, we all do it, picking up ideas, and learning from methods employed, it's a lot of what MSW is all about.

 

Have fun.

 

B.E.

[hollowneck]

4 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

I'm sure you will enjoy this build Erdict, it is a fine model to make.

 

As for emulating the builds of others, we all do it, picking up ideas, and learning from methods employed, it's a lot of what MSW is all about.

 

Have fun.

 

B.E.

As Blue Ensign said, this model kit is a fine one to build, very rewarding. This forum is an amazing resource for all model ship builders, novice and expert alike. In all likelihood if you can’t get a satisfactory answer here to any question, an answer likely doesn’t exist!

Since this is not your first, you already know that a fun build isn’t a speed competition. Your time frame of 18-24 months is about right for steady work to a completely rigged Sphinx. Any tough spots you encounter, the answers will be here across several build logs for this superb kit.

I’ll be looking in to your build as I complete mine over the next couple months. Welcome aboard, weigh anchor and set your heading…for success.

[glbarlow]

Congratulations on your start. As noted the wonder of MSW is learning, leveraging, modifying, and adopting the ideas and work of others. The good ones did the same thing themselves. Along the way you become the next source for those that follow. 
 

A recommendation: This is not a hobby driven by time. No need for schedules or time budgets. Take the amount of time it takes and enjoy the time you spend building. 

[James H]

Looking forward to seeing this. 

 

Remember to check out the notes I added about the position of the lower stern counter. Check step 149 for info.

[hollowneck]

12 minutes ago, James H said:

Looking forward to seeing this. 

 

Remember to check out the notes I added about the position of the lower stern counter. Check step 149 for info.

Erdict, this advice from James H is quite important for a successful build of the Sphinx; it comes from the prototype engineer who works closely with Vanguard and writes the manuals. The stern counter is one of the most difficult areas to get properly aligned. You'll want to look into the Sphinx Build Logs of a couple members here to see the situation and how it's been handled.

[Glenn-UK]

This is a great kit and I'm sure you will enjoy the build.

[Erdict]

Thank you all for taking time to follow my build and take time to share your thoughts.

 

Blue Ensign: thank you for posting your build and providing so many interesting ideas to follow.  I have thoroughly read your log; 2-3 times for some sections.  I am keeping my iPad open with build logs next to the instructions for simultaneous reference.

 

Hollowneck: I am discovering just how immense a resource MSW is.  I wish I had used it for my previous build. I discovered it at the end of the build.  My work is not unsteady.  Though, I do take a week off here and there.  I also may take a month or so off after finishing the hull.  The transition to rigging is a big one for me.  I am following your build now.  I haven't caught up yet, as my brain RAM only allows room for the hull build at this point.  Seriously, there is so much relevant information available on here.  I perused your rigging, and I will definitely be following your guide as closely as the instructions.  When I get to the sails, it will be 100% your build, as I haven't found another.  I love the silkspan hanging in your garage.  My wife is not going to love this when I get to that step =]

 

Glenn: thank you.  It's tricky for me to balance the journey and the achievement.  I want to see what my ship is going to look like, but just stepping back and enjoying it is something I have embraced more as I feel more competent.  I think I will really be able to settle into this one.  If it goes over, I won't get overly worried.

 

James: thank you for keeping an eye on my build log.  These instructions are extremely well-written.  They seem to anticipate all the unforeseen questions that got me hung up on previous models, and they explain things in a very easy-to-follow manner.  Looking at step 149, I see the note is to prevent a gap between the lower stern cover and the upper counter?  I will keep a special note here to watch this step.  Also, thank you for managing such a great culture here on MSW.  There seems to be a lot of activity to keep up with.  I know that is a lot of work.

 

Glenn (UK): I think I have been mixing both Glenn's in my mind, but now I can make the separation.  I am actually following your build as well.  I love a lot of your view angles and approaches.  They offer perspectives that I am finding helpful.

 

I have started my build, and I will post my first log as I get my bearings.  I'm not sure how best to organize the logs yet, especially in length.  Is it better to post 2-3 logs organized by subject close together or just post one log that covers an entire span?  Especially early on, a lot seems to happen.

 

Also, here is my previous build. I posted it just a couple days ago but finished this past July.  It gives a point of reference for where I'm leaving off (and gives a chance to show my last build ). I feel I am at an awkward stage where I make glaring errors on some things but achieve others that I am proud of.

[glbarlow]

Let me know when you stop making mistakes - I've been at this a while and still excel at mistakes. Half the fun is 'fixing' what I didn't do right the first time.

[mtaylor]

10 hours ago, Erdict said:

I have started my build, and I will post my first log as I get my bearings.  I'm not sure how best to organize the logs yet, especially in length.  Is it better to post 2-3 logs organized by subject close together or just post one log that covers an entire span?  Especially early on, a lot seems to happen.

 

Also, here is my previous build. I posted it just a couple days ago but finished this past July.  It gives a point of reference for where I'm leaving off (and gives a chance to show my last build ). I feel I am at an awkward stage where I make glaring errors on some things but achieve others that I am proud of.

Don't open two logs for the same build.  Just add to this one like the rest of us.  It keeps everything in place and given the size that MSW has grown to, it also keeps things from getting lost.  

 

However, if you have questions about any part of building and don't get an answer in your log, then open a topic in the appropriate area.

[Erdict]

58 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

Don't open two logs for the same build.  Just add to this one like the rest of us.  It keeps everything in place and given the size that MSW has grown to, it also keeps things from getting lost.  

Oh, so sorry! I didn’t ask that very well. I meant should I make 2-3 posts in this log addressing different build aspects (i.e., a post for attaching the stern, one for cutting the bulkhead…) Do folks generally prefer several shorter posts or longer posts that cover larger sections of a build?  
If I made a log for each section of my build I would make a mess of things right quickly 🤪

[mtaylor]

Some go for long posts with text and many photos.  Others go for short.  Depends on the builder.  If playing "catch up" go for longer posts.  You'll get into a rhythm that you're comfortable with.  As for confusion... my normal state of affairs some days so don't feel bad.  

[OllieS]

18 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

Some go for long posts with text and many photos.  Others go for short.  Depends on the builder.  If playing "catch up" go for longer posts.  You'll get into a rhythm that you're comfortable with.  As for confusion... my normal state of affairs some days so don't feel bad.  

Another aspect is how comprehensive you want to be.

That is do you want to show everything so your hobby becomes 'building a build log' or do you want to just show the highlights?

If (like me) sharing is something you feel you should do but interupts your happy pastime (and breaks the spell somewhat) then 'landmarks of interest' is a way to go.

[glbarlow]

The key to a good log is mixing pictures with descriptive text. I tend to scroll past long blocks of text and am not interested in a string of ‘here it is now’ photos. The length can vary from post to post depending on what stage or task you’re working on, no rules to follow there, really up to you. It’s the best place to share what you know and ask what you don’t know. I try to tell a story with mine and enjoy writing it almost as much as the building.  

[Erdict]

1 hour ago, glbarlow said:

The key to a good log is mixing pictures with descriptive text. I tend to scroll past long blocks of text and am not interested in a string of ‘here it is now’ photos. The length can vary from post to post depending on what stage or task you’re working on, no rules to follow there, really up to you. It’s the best place to share what you know and ask what you don’t know. I try to tell a story with mine and enjoy writing it almost as much as the building.  

I really like this advice Glenn!  I'll avoid too much description and a lot of "see my ship now!" pics.  I also tend to focus more on the "how-to", "help!" and "avoid this" commentary.  I'll try and make this as reader friendly as possible.  (I may have to check myself with the overwriting  

[glbarlow]

51 minutes ago, Erdict said:

check myself with the overwriting

I always do that…and frequently fail😂

[Erdict]

Post One: Unboxing

 

There is not too much to say that hasn't already been said about unboxing.  One thing I will note, I didn't anticipate the smell of the wood.  It is distinct and pleasant to me.  I rather like this, as smells have a way of bringing me into a state of mind. 

Here is my work station.  There are a couple old projects still on the back:

One thing I didn't expect is how tiny the parts are.  The build logs all show close up shots, and I developed the false impression of size.  Several of these pieces are extremely tiny and yet keep nice details.  Here is a shot of the fittings:

Also, I purchased the Pearwood Block Set, which is an add-on to the kit.  Looking at the great detail of the pearwood set, I am not disappointed.  Here is a closeup of this set: 

Everything else looks akin to other descriptions.  Amazing detail, very well packaged (Thank you Mrs. W.). Out of the four kits I have owned, this is of the highest quality.

[Erdict]

Post Two: Getting Started

 

I made the cradle but don't use it.  I bought a Keel Klamper Swivel Vice from Micro-Mark instead.  Building the hull went easily at first.  So many builders broke the delicate pieces, and I swore I would be more careful.  I proceeded to break the stern assembly as soon as I attached it to the false keel.  I'll reiterate, you've got to be careful with this set.  Below is setting the stern:

My brief moment with the cradle while waiting for the keel klamper to arrive.  You can see my efforts to save the stern.  It fixed up well later on.  This is an awkward photo.

Moving on, I attached all the bulkheads.  They required a very gentle mallet tap to get flush.  Slipping on the lower deck, I learned what "fet'lin" means.  It attached very nicely, but I had to maneuver each bulkhead 2-3 times to slowly work it down without any more breaks.  Success!  Note: Nothing is glued yet.  All these parts will be removed in further steps.

Orlop Preparations: an Alteration

Here I am looking at my lower deck while examining B.E.'s work.  He opened two ladder-ways down to the orlop on the fore and aft extreme openings.  Below you can see where alterations need to take place on bulkhead #4 as well as on the false keel.  The false keel needs adjusted in the same areas as well as on the aft side.  I highlighted the openings in blue and the alterations in red.

The goal of this alteration is to open up a view from the upper decks all the way down to the orlop.  This is probably one of the coolest views in my mind and well worth the effort.  Here is a view from the aft of the Gun deck.  I am going to remove this red section of the false keel and build a small landing to simulate the orlop just as is done with the kit on the fore side.

Here is the fore opening.  I don't think I installed the orlop landing yet in this picture.  It's a bit dark down there.

Preparing the Fore for the Orlop

I removed the lower deck port for this next step.  This picture shows bulkhead #4 with the orlop landing in place.  I made pencil marks (circled in red) and show how I drew my cut lines.

The next 3 pictures show altering bulkhead #4.  This cut looks exactly like B.E.'s  I found this alteration much easier because I watched such a strong modeler (Blue Ensign) have such success with this.  There is no way I would try this on my own, and I am quite sure this required far more time to research for B.E. than it did for me to copy.  So thank you for the plans =]  (I wish I had drawn the red line just a little lower, as I had to sand this down to be flush with the orlop platform.)

I bought this scroll saw in hopes that it would be useful with this model.  I am quickly learning that this should be a tool in every household.  (Just keep the key hidden from the children.)

I then drew my false keel cut lines with the piece I cut off of bulkhead #4 and a straight edge. 

For the aft cut, I lowered the false keel to match the height of the fore orlop platform.  My hope is the orlop steps go down equally as far on both sides.  (I'm actually waiting for the orlop ladders to arrive in a second parts order I made to Chris W.  More on this later.)  Looking at B.E.'s log, the two ladders appear to be the same, so I made this alteration with confidence.  Red shows the fore alteration.

Here is a picture of the finished false keel with the 2 alterations.

Ok, enough for now.  In my next post, I will show my assembly of the orlop landings, bulkheads, and lower deck.  Cheers =]

 

Edited October 2, 2022 by Erdict

[jpalmer1970]

Looks like a good start. I will enjoy following on with your log.

[Erdict]

Hey, quick question @chris watton.  My Gun Deck Patterns #47 & #48 don’t seem to fit quite right. Before I make any alterations, would you have a quick look at these 2 pictures and give me your advice?  They are both slotted comfortably back as far as they will go, but they seem to overlap too much by about 4mm in total. The gun deck veneer ends about 2mm short of the slots on either side of the base pattern, but it fits just perfectly on the model. Thank you!

[chris watton]

Jesse,

 

All is correct, please do not start hacking the decks, the ply deck fits more or less perfectly.

[James H]

The comparison of the engraved deck to the ply sub deck is correct. The engraved part is smaller as it doesn't extend into the bulwark area.

 

The problem you have with fitting the ply decks is definitely that the halves aren't pushed completely back into the slots in the bulkhead ears, no doubt. The deck width across each bulkhead I a set width, with zero variation between kit. 

 

Try using a jewellers file to remove the char from each ply deck slot, and also slightly bevel the upper, innermost part of the slot so that it catches the notch in each bulkhead ear. I absolutely guarantee that this is the cause. I've seen this a couple of times before and know this is the issue. Just be careful in your test fitting to make sure the deck halves are slotted in 100%.

[James H]

In fact, you can see the deck isn't properly located as it should be. Take a look here at the gaps between the ply deck slot and the bulkhead ears:

 

[Erdict]

Chris & James, thank you for the responses.  I fettled with the sub ply Gun Deck more and moved both sides much closer to flush.  The rest of the distance should be made up by jeweler's file as James suggested.  =]  The picture below shows a better fit.  I wasn't able to fit it perfectly yet because some bulkheads were a smidge closer than others in the middle (not seen) preventing it from connecting all the way.  I will definitely make sure all is flush before I permanently lay down the sub ply and discuss the results at that step.  The picture also shows the jeweler's files.  I will use them on the edges where the ears fit into the bulkhead.  This a a relief.

[Erdict]

Gundeck Ply Fix (please note)

I can’t believe I missed this. There are little slots tucked underneath each bulkhead ear where the gundeck ply fits snugly with a little help. I didn’t have to alter anything.  Although, one could widen the wedge if one wanted to, I don’t think it’s necessary. Little embarrassed, but all’s well in the end. 😊 Just in case someone else gets stuck on this, here it is:

And it fits perfectly. 

[Erdict]

Post Three: Assembly of the Orlop & Lower Deck

First I glued the ket orlop landing onto bulkhead #5

I then inserted each half of bulkhead #4 into position. 

A couple things here.  1) Blue Ensign used a clamp to pull bulkhead #4 towards #5.  I tried this, and it didn't work for me.  I ended up taking it off and resetting it.  2) I found the block that B.E. glued on helped a lot to square up bulkhead #4.  Also, that line I wished I had cut a little lower in my previous post come up too high.  I had to do a little sanding there just by the block I added.  

Here are some pictures of the kit orlop platform. 

I haven't received my orlop stairs yet.  I actually just got a delay notice today from UPS, so I'm taking my time with the steps leading up to the gun deck installation.  I bought a pile of 3D printed cargo a while back, so I painted this.  I think it will go nicely down there next to the stairs.  Also, you can see my idea for the grate.  B.E. set his to the side.  My crew didn't bother to take it all the way off the opening so they could just slide it back on.  I don't think any officers come down this far to look.

I was so engrossed in my work that I forgot to take any picture of me building the non-kit orlop platform.  Oops!  It was made of a scrap of pear with some planking from my previous model.  I made it as wide as long (which was the distance between bulkhead #9 & #10).  I think it could have been a few mm wider.

 

Here is a bottom view with both.  This is actually the picture of me gluing on the lower deck following the instruction manual.  I used some diluted glue and a paint brush the same way as this at the end of my previous model for the sails.  I have to say, I am very fond of this method.  I find myself using it a lot.  It is similar to painting miniatures, so it may just be familiarity.

Next post I will fix the break I made in bulkhead #13, stain the grates, and assemble the gun port frames.  Then onto carving the gun deck support beams.

 

[chris watton]

6 hours ago, Erdict said:

Gundeck Ply Fix (please note)

I can’t believe I missed this. There are little slots tucked underneath each bulkhead ear where the gundeck ply fits snugly with a little help. I didn’t have to alter anything.  Although, one could widen the wedge if one wanted to, I don’t think it’s necessary. Little embarrassed, but all’s well in the end. 😊 Just in case someone else gets stuck on this, here it is:

And it fits perfectly. 

 

It does actually mention the slots in the manual you have

[Erdict]

Post Four: Gun Port Frames

The gunport frames went on smoothly.  I used them to help refasten the ears on bulkhead #13.

I created these sandpaper files as others have created.  I find them very useful and will create more in the future.

Here are the finished gun port frames.

 

 

 

Edited October 9, 2022 by Erdict

[Erdict]

Post Five: Color Scheme

I finally got to a point where I needed to decide on a color scheme.  I think I would like to follow more in line with Hollowneck.  He prefers more stains than painting, which he outlines in detail on the first page of his Sphinx build log.  I have a slight preference for stains, and I think it will make this a little more my own.  I bought the Natural, Weathered Oak, and Golden Oak.  

Here I stained the grates in Natural.  I like the look of it, as it appears to brighten the color just a touch.

I stained the lower deck in weathered oak.  It's interesting, it reveals the underlying grain of the board, which is an unexpected consequence of using a single sheet over individual planking.  Since it's the lower deck, it will be shaded, so I'm not too worried.  I'll need multiple coats for higher decks.  Still, I like the look of the weathered color.

For the gun deck support beams, I followed B.E.'s lead and carved them into spindles.  I stained them natural, which I find pleasing.  I hope they're still visible later on in the build. 

I will also add a picture of the longitudinal deck beams.  I used a rotary sander with 600+ grit sand paper.  This section was wide and easy to access, so I felt comfortable using it.

 

 

Edited October 9, 2022 by Erdict

[Erdict]

Post Six: Stern Counter Frame (Mod)

Here I literally cut corners.  I would encourage folks to look at all the hard work and effort Blue Ensign put into measuring and designing the proper cuts for the stern counter frames.  It was thorough and painstaking to anticipate many steps ahead to make sure he didn't cause problems for future steps.  I am enjoying a much easier walk down a tail he already blazed.

Here are lines for the cuts.

I used my new jigsaw (I love it!) to remove the corners.

And I installed them!

I can't help but laugh because this post is so short.  It just does't reflect the amount of research B.E. put into making this mod successful.  Thanks!