Lady Anne by kruginmi - FINISHED - 1:50 - kitbash of Artesania Latina Harvey

[kruginmi]

So after hours of fighting very small blocks and big fingers trying to figure out how to attach them effectively and consistently, I had the great idea to check out the rigging section of this site.

 

One video later complexity solved.  Wow, I can actually do this.  I did lose one of those 1/8" blocks into the carpet monster (note to self) but I am very happy (and don't need wire).  Color of the  thread used just for practice purposes. 

 

[kruginmi]

So today was figuring out the rigging color to use for the blocks themselves.  I also decided to delve into some more of the fancy camera settings that I have never used.  Both were successful.  Having things magnified so much, I provide some reference pics of the blocks themselves.

I have decided to use the more traditional black main line with tan for seizing.  As a last shot I couldn't help but add a pic of the block on a special business card, one holding a shot of my HMS Druid.

Stay Building My Friends, -Mark

[kruginmi]

Doing some clean up when I looked at my bench and smiled. The way things ought to be. 

[MartinJ]

Hi, Mark.

 

I, am also bashing the Harvey. I've eliminated the outhouses and made the ship a 10-gun privateer named Rebecca after my daughter. I also planked her hull with cherry and added treenails. Upon looking at your build log, I've decided to modify my windlass to resemble yours. I don't thing I'll install the barrels, though.

 

But I see you haven't posted anything since last May. Just when it was getting interesting.

 

I'm finishing my masts and spars now and have to make some decisions about rigging and whether or not to attempt sails. Are you planning to, or have you already bent sails to the yards and gaffs? If, so, are they furled or let fly? And if your spars are bare, what have you done with the bowlines and leech lines, or have you left them off?

 

Martin

 

 

[Spellapeaka]

Wonderful build. I have admired this build from a far for a long time! I am currently working on this kit as well. Your marvelous kit bashing skills is what inspired me to continue with this kit in the first place. Now that I have time to work on mine I am really enjoying "re-building" all of the shoddy components included with the kit. I hope life has treated you well my friend! May God's blessing be upon you!

 

[kruginmi]

Hey Spellapeaka and Martin,  Not dead yet!  (haha).

 

This thing called life has certainly flipped things upside down for me.  I appreciate the comments and the nudge.  The Lady Anne sits at arms length still ready for the rigging (laying in ordinary).  Maybe it is time.  Still love the hobby.

 

Mark

[kruginmi]

Alright, the Lady Anne is the project for the Winter.  Time to put it in the done column.  Pulled it out of storage, found the Pride of Baltimore plans, and actually found all the masting and sparring I had completed.

 

 

I have a ropewalk but I am okay with using stuff at hand.  Plus this is a work boat so I don't even need all the rigging matching in color.  I pulled out all of the prospective 'rope' I had stuffed here and there.  Four sizes from .008 to .025 should do the job, in both tanish and blackish (though I like brown for the shrouds).

 

 

Using my thread sorter I think I found the threads that I will use:

 

 

The key test (I did pick up blocks from Syren of course) was would the fine thread fit through the 1/8" blocks:

 

 

Success!  Now to get the workspace organized, make sure the the masts are totally setup then getting onto those ratlines (everyone's favorite part).

 

Stay Building My Friends, Mark

[Spellapeaka]

Hello Sir, really looking forward to seeing this build continue! It has been an inspiration to my build. I took the summer off but hoping to get back to it soon. You are such an incredible model builder! Thank you.

[kruginmi]

Again, the hull form is from the Harvey and as such, I do not feel compelled to make everything absolutely perfect.  The goal is to have some fun and focus on rigging.

 

First step is to take stock of my main mast and see what is left before I can get the really fun task of ratlines.  The mast I have made (proportional to the hull) is larger than the Pride of Baltimore II, from which I am replicating the rigging.  The as built against the plans bears this out:

I re-acquainted myself with the main mast details and found a few things I have to do, but not too bad.  On the mast cap I am actually good.  I have re-used the eye bolts that came with the kit as the basis for attaching the requisite blocks.

At the mast bottom the first thing that jumped to my attention is the need for the supports under the boom shelf.  That should do it.  I have already sealed everything, so will need to scrape and figure out what I used for sealing.....

Last but not least is the tippity top.  Here I am missing a portside cheek block for the main gaff topsail.  I already have the Krug eye poker protection in place.

With those additions I should be able to affix the mast in place and add the main shrouds.

Stay Building My Friends, Mark

 

[egkb]

Hi Mark .. Great to see this Lady back on your work bench ..

 

All The Very Best

 

Eamonn

[gjdale]

Hey Mark,

 

Great to see you back at the bench again.

[kruginmi]

Hey, I actually did something (queue fanfare) (and the peasants rejoiced).

 

First up was the supports for the boom shelf on the main mast.  Since this was at an angle, I used some old business cards (hated that company) to define the angle required at four points (the sides ended up being 90 degrees, which was actually a good thing).  Then a simple matter to pull out some basswood and cut to length, cut to angle and cut the beveled outer edge.  I am not going to say I messed up and cut the same angle twice (but I did).

 

Put this into it's place and now my twitch can go away.  I possibly could have done more than four, but when the rigging is complete and boom installed this will be hard to see anyway. (and yes I scraped away the sanding sealer to insure the piece will stay put when glued).

Finally I need to add a cheek block way up at the tippity top (technical term).   I modified a block I had laying around from the kit and glued on.  Given that the main gaff topsail line runs through this I thought it prudent to add some reinforcement so I drilled through both the block and mast and ran a section of brad nail through to insure it stays where it was.

Once snipped and super glued it was ready to go.

 

So......I can actually start putting the shrouds in place and descend into ratline purgatory.  It will at least get my knot tying skills back up.  Three shrouds per side.  Something for this weekend (and the next, and the next, and....you get the picture).

Stay Building My Friends, Mark

 

Edit:  I should add the mast cap and trestle trees are not parallel to the deck, which is an issue.  However, this mast was (originally) constructed a long time ago in a house far far away.  While I have done major reconstruction to make it more attuned with the Pride of Baltimore, I decided to leave the mast cap and trestle trees as originally assembled since it would require much surgery.  It is what it is.

Edited November 20, 2020 by kruginmi
Add note re: mast cap angle

[kruginmi]

The obligatory how I rig up dead-eyes post.  The lower dead-eyes were affixed a long time ago.  I have better ones now but do not want to go backwards so will use the kit supplied ones for the uppers also.

 

Tools of the trade (finished one included for effect).  Not pictured is the tie-flying clamp that I also find useful with its cam-style closing jaws.  Followed the same procedure with the 1/96 Revell Constitution so can be used at most scales.

 

I first twirl the shroud lines tight against the dead-eye and secure with some hemostats (thanks Mom).  Then tie with some thin line - I don't want this to loosen.  I actually knot then knot again on the opposite side

After I make sure as tight as possible I move the hemostats down a little then knot on the thicker line (what is seen).  I insure the ends of the smaller line are underneath than these are snipped short.  I leave the short end of the thicker line long and loop it going up the line.

I then attach the top end to the clamp and put a clothespin on the dead-eye (and trailing edge of the line for weight.

Then I begin winding the longer thread end around, keeping a bit of tension to allow the windings to move upwards without overlapping.  They do not have to be totally snug together at this point.

 

When I have the wrappings I want, I pinch the windings (so they don't unroll) and remove from the clamp.  I also insert the remaining line into the loop previously formed.

Then (wait for it), pull the lower end thread which will retract the loop and pull the upper end thread into the body of the wrapping.  Do this carefully, pinching the whole assembly in the process.  Do not pull all the way through.

Then the remaining thread ends can be snipped off.  Not pictured is I then apply a drop of thin CA glue to solidify.  Remember to rotate the dead-eye to its correct position prior (ask me how I know haha).

 

Also, before gluing you can massage to achieve just the look you want.  I usually give a (VERY) gentle pull down towards the dead-eye to insure close to flush mounted.  For the dead-eye tie offs, you can still work the line through this juncture if that is what you want to do.

 

RInse and repeat.  Only four more for the main mast lower shrouds.  Piece of Pie (as my Dad would say).

Mark

 

Edited November 24, 2020 by kruginmi
Adding words on shaping at end.

[kruginmi]

A good quiet morning, a good cup of coffee and some good jazz equates to progress.

 

Each mast has three main shrouds.  Each side has one double ended and then two single ended (ones from each side are seized together) so.....only four more dead eyes to tie when I figure out the length required for the double ended ones.

 

Might have a chance to get these masts set in this weekend.  Now for some quality time with my Stratocaster.

-Mark

[kruginmi]

Another quick update - amazing what you can do when you actually sit down and do something.

 

I wanted to get those 4 more dead-eyes affixed while I was in the zone.  I only have two hands (with meat hooks for fingers) so I knew right away a jig would be in order.  Pretty sure what I ended up making isn't original, but I built on the fly and it works for me.  It slips onto the chain plates and allows me to (literally) pin the deadeyes in place, even the one not affixed to the shrouds.  Then it is easy to tension, mark and affix off ship.

 

 

The following sequence is self explanatory.  Let me know if anything is unclear.

 

This actually isn't the 'final' height since after they are joined to the lower dead-eyes, the shrouds are joined together near the trestle trees.  The dead-eyes will be rigged with the jig in place (though nothing pinned).  It gives a visual indicator of height to achieve.

 

I will also be able to join the rear shroud with the rear of the opposing side a lot easier this way.  Win Win.

 

One key thing to check (LOL) is that the dead-eye block itself slips in between the main and top mast.  Mine barely did.  If not, tying would still be easier with all the slack present.

 

I will make one jig for P/S mainmast and one for the P/S foremast (using both sides of the jig).  I put this jig in the win column for me.

Mark

 

 

Edited November 26, 2020 by kruginmi

[kruginmi]

So this happened today.  So much for removing the main mast for storage, guess I am committed now LOL.  Next up is the fore mast.

 

Funny how in the mind these shrouds took on the aura of the Victory, with seemingly thousands of ratline knots to tie.  This is a LOT easier.  Besides, every fifth run will be a wooden rod making it even easier.  

-Mark

[kruginmi]

Moved on to the Fore-mast.  Of course the chain plates had more eye-bolts in them so the jig couldn't be used the same way.  So...time to adapt.

I clamped to the bulkhead on the deck side.

Then the process remains the same.  It seems as soon as you get good at something, it is time to move on (haha).  I have a few backstays still to go.

Then came the all important check:  are the masts in line and appear to be perpendicular to the deck......

 

I can live with that result. 

Stay Building My Friends,  Mark

Edited November 29, 2020 by kruginmi

[Keith Black]

Mark, very nice work. Where do live in our wonderful state of Michigan?

[kruginmi]

Hey Keith, born and raised in Plymouth currently in Grand Rapids.  Went to UofM back in mid-80's.

 

Love the Western side so much more than the Eastern.

Mark

[Keith Black]

1 hour ago, kruginmi said:

Love the Western side

Mark, at almost 74 I'm not big fan of snow. It seems like every time I watch the weather you guys are getting snowed on and I'm not talking about small amounts. 

Sure would be neat to have a Michigan ship modelers club centrally located. 

[egkb]

Wow Mark .. I nip out for a few mins , come back and you have posted pages of wonderful work !! 😂 .. 

 

All The Best Mate..

 

Eamonn

[kruginmi]

Hey Eamonn, have to get to it while the iron is hot.  Had some time off from work so just started.  I can't promise so much activity all the time haha.  Picked up a Stratocaster guitar and working to learn that.  So many hobbies, so little time.

 

All the best to You Eamonn,

Mark

[kruginmi]

So...coming up to a decision point and I throw it out for suggestions on what course to follow.

 

The original 'Harvey' had two (2) fixed backstays off of the foremast.  This was built before the grand awakening and change of direction.

These directly attached to the two fixed points above the mast cap

 

The 'opportunity' before me is that on the Pride of Baltimore II they only used one, with the second backstay being a running variety and fixed inboard of the bulwarks.  I do have these connection points established on the hull.

 

So what do I do with the second backstay deadeye? 

 

My current thoughts are to go with the PoBII configuration and not use the deadeye.  I will have to throw some rigging on it to connect to the railing or something to avoid the inevitable - "Looks like you forgot something" (hey - actually think someone will look closely at this when done haha).  My rationale is that this is a working ship and each captain has their own druthers on rigging.  So.....the latest guy decided he liked a running backstay better.  I could also just remove the deadeye and leave the hardware (damage at sea? LOL).

 

Any other thoughts out there?     -Mark

 

[egkb]

Could you combine them.. or do both ? least you won't have that 'empty/missing' feel .. Rem the only person you need to convince is yourself, so which do you prefer?

 

E 

[MartinJ]

The plans for Mantua's Albatros shows the same back stay configuration as the Harvey plans. The plans for the old Model Shipways Dapper Dan shows the same configuration, but then adds another running stay as well. It has double blocks, the lower one fastened to the channel next to a smaller deadeye configuration which is positioned just aft of the fourth shroud. Then the plans from Conway Maritime Press for the Enterprize, a merchant schooner of 1830, shows the running double block tackle replacing the fifth back stay set on the channel. So it appears from this small sample that "anything goes". Your choice.

[kruginmi]

My view is that the 'Harvey' configuration is the default basic kit way to recreate the look (less complexity).  When the rigging in total is viewed, you can definitely make this assumption.

 

The running backstay seems more accurate and befitting such a ship so that is what I will use.  For the orphaned deadeye I will just punt and wait until all the standing rigging is complete and then ponder what would look best.

 

Thanks for the comments!   -Mark

[kruginmi]

Question:  When rigging dead-eye to dead-eye, the upper dead-eye rotates to the side where the initial knot is formed.  This causes, by the end, sometimes to be 180 degrees rotated from the desired position.  I have been very careful to insure no twist is in the tie off line itself and everything is kept taught (but not overly so).  This twist becomes more apparent the farther the deadeyes are positioned from each other.

 

Any help for me out there?

 

I will use a wood pole as the first ratline and could force correction with this, but am trying to work this out prior.

 

Thanks, Mark.

[kruginmi]

I know the twisting is a common issue.  I have tried quite a few things today, insuring the tension is uniform across all 3 threads, no thread is caught up in its hole, etc.  I even wet the threads to see if any small fuzz was hampering.

 

One thing I did find interesting is that if I do get the tension just right (basically very little) (or very slack) the deadeyes will align themselves correctly.  However the shroud is quite loose.  If you pull up on the shroud the upper deadeye will immediately start twisting around 1x, 2x, etc.  Release the tension and it returns to the original startup.

 

I know wood and most things hull, but this rigging stuff is a learning curve.  I need to figure this out before I proceed.

 

I am going to try some different thread and see if that helps any.

 

BINGO:  went with a same diameter but more 'waxy' thread and everything is behaving as it should.  It makes sense but can't say I totally expected this.  Phew.  I need to redo all the shrouds but that is okay.  Better product in the end.

Edited December 5, 2020 by kruginmi
FIgured out the solution.

[MartinJ]

Here is the way I thread the lanyards: I build a jig (see below). It needs to be tight to the deadeye, or you can use a very thin shim to hold it in place. Once the threading is done, I paint the lanyards and the deadeyes with a clear matte varnish or diluted white glue. Thus everything stays in place and ready to mount on the channels and on the shrouds.

[kruginmi]

Thanks Martin.   Thinking about the diluted white glue. Will see how it looks. 

thread type made a huge difference

 

Mark