HMS Bounty Launch by Oakheart - FINISHED - Scale 1:24 – 18th century - based on drawings from National Maritime Museum

[iMustBeCrazy]

51 minutes ago, oakheart said:

Hmm, all I want is a good looking model, will it make a difference which way I go?

In that case, not really. You're looking good.

What does it look like inside?

 

25 minutes ago, Wintergreen said:

a friendly advice

And good advice, I'm contemplating adding an additional mould (station i) to support the shape of the bow but it's not easy from a 2D drawing.

[oakheart]

1 minute ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

What does it look like inside?

 

 

Don't know, I will do a test on my Version 1 frames and let you know.

Most of the inside of the keel / strakes junction should be covered by the flooring planks ( forget the real name ).

 

Tim

[allanyed]

 

3 hours ago, Gregory said:

You can get by without the rabbet by fitting the garboard flush with the keel. 

Hi Gregory

Unfortunately this does not apply to this model as it is based on RMG plan ZAZ7361, or most, if not all, launch plans for that matter.   I made this mistake on my first attempt at this model and scrapped it when I realized it was totally wrong for this particular boat if based on the body plan.  This plan and two other launch plans follow as examples.

Allan

[Gregory]

1 hour ago, allanyed said:

Unfortunately this does not apply to this model as it is based on RMG plan ZAZ7361,

Makes no difference to me..  What matters, is how oakheart wishes to proceed..

 

There seems to be a lot of differences of interpretations of these ship's boat  plans.

Some seem to worry about the smallest detail, but I have yet to see anyone model the details of transom construction.  Most seem content to show it as one big piece, when it surely wasn't built that way.

I plan to address this with my build.

[iMustBeCrazy]

19 minutes ago, Gregory said:

Most seem content to show it as one big piece

It depends on what you are modelling.

 

Fincham (ca1820) gives us this description.

 

The transom in launches and clincher-built boats has its aft side on one surface, and well with the rake of the after part of the post; but in barges and pinnaces it is in
general in two parts, the upper part lapping over the aft side of the lower, and projecting abaft it, to form a moulding on its lower part, well with the lower part of the land strake;

and in addition to this mouldng, formed by the projection of its lower edge, one is likewise worked above by another projection, worked out of the upper piece, well with the lower part of the sheer or upper strake.

 

The transom in launches and clincher-built boats are therefore always let in their thickness from the after part; and in barges, pinnaces, and yawls, from the fore part, it is in general fastened to the post with nails, in addition to the ring bolt and gudgeon.

 

So the transom of almost any boat other than a Barge or Pinnace will look like one big slab but was probably made up of two or more pieces.

[oakheart]

5 hours ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

will look like one big slab but was probably made up of two or more pieces.

That makes sense, if it was a 'rubbed' joint it would be difficult to see the join.

 

Tim

[oakheart]

Having researched the subject, I am still having problems working out the planking on this boat.

Am I conflating two or more different ways of approaching the problem. Chucks Passaro, David Antscherl and others.

Here is what I understand so far :

The planks are widest at station 0 and taper forward toward the stem and back to the stern ( transom )

So  for each station I take a measurement of the frame from keel to gunwale in mm,  divided by  number of planks  = plank width in mm

at a scale of 1:24,  I have the following dimensions on my tick strips in mm as a start

stem  :   ??

station H   : 40 / 8  = 5mm 

station 0  :  60 / 8  = 7.5mm 

station 8  : 44 / 8  = 5.5mm  

transom : ??

 

The widths at stations in between are then marked on tick strips by transferring dimensions from a planking fan.

I still have not fully understood the use of the fan yet, more reading required here.

When joining those dots what determines the amount of curve between stations?

 

as a side note:

I have a wonderful set of french curves that I got from the widow of a boat designer some 45 years ago.

At last I can put them to their proper use.

 

Tim

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[iMustBeCrazy]

46 minutes ago, oakheart said:

I still have not fully understood the use of the fan yet, more reading required here.

This bit is easy to explain, the fan is just a way of marking off your divisions on your tick strip.

On the fan mark your lines 0 through 8. Mark the measured distance on the tick strip. Hold one mark on line 0 and the other on line 8 (it doesn't matter how skewed it is) the other lines give your equal divisions.

 

Remember that your planks will need to be slightly larger than that indicated by your division as you are measuring the inside arc. This is more relevant in real life but be aware.

 

[iMustBeCrazy]

1 hour ago, oakheart said:

When joining those dots what determines the amount of curve between stations?

The shape of the hull

Possibly the easiest way is the tape trick (see pic) the tape shouldn't have any kinks and should lay flat BUT it should approximate the outer surface of the plank you are trying to make (inner surface for clinker). Mark the edge of the previous plank at each frame and the stem and transom.

Use the tape to make a template with your curves, use your calculated plank widths at each station to get the other edge.

 

[oakheart]

Now it begins to make some sense, thanks again Craig. I will spend this morning practicing my marking out based on your explanations.

First to print out a planking fan and cut some extra tick strips.

 

Tim

[allanyed]

10 hours ago, Gregory said:

What matters, is how oakheart wishes to proceed..

I absolutely agree with you Gregory.  I based my comments on other conversations Tim and I have had off site.  

 

Your comment about the transoms is spot on. 😀  

 

Allan

 

Edited January 15, 2023 by allanyed

[oakheart]

Just drawn a custom planking fan, lets see if it works.........

 

2 hours ago, allanyed said:

how oakheart wishes to proceed.

I still have not decided to go with or without a rabbet, there are good augments for both.

Visually I am leaning towards no rabbet, as it will be easier to control the look of the join line.

 

Tim

[oakheart]

OK decision made at least for the first of the two builds, this will be the 'dirty' boat.

No rabbet on this one, using the ply keel as it will be covered in tar/pitch as per Blights log.

 

I am not happy with the way the futtocks cut out of the molds ( frames) the scroll saw seemed to have a mind of it's own today....

 

 

Still I should be able to clean up a bit when I have planked it.

 

 

It's all glued up now so in the morning when the glue is hard, the transom needs fairing.

Then I can line it out

Not sure whether to use cotton or thin tape to do the lining having never done it before, maybe try each on different sides

Then I can get on with cutting the planks ( spilling ) to fit

 

Tim

[oakheart]

Finally got this thing lined out, cotton seemed to work. Not sure about the stem end? 

 

 

This was really what I should have done before I tried to understand the planking, it really helps.

Now to transfer this to templates.

Most of it looks pretty straight foward, but I'm not sure how I measure and transfer the area between Station H and  the stem the cotton is stretched in  straight line but i need a curve

how best to proceed here?

 

Any advice would be welcome.

Ignore the broken temporary square section, it had a nice curve then snapped, I should have soaked , live and learn

 

Tim

 

[allanyed]

It is great to see you researching then carrying out and putting into effect the methods you are studying.  In this case it works for ships and boats both, and yields planking that looks like a real vessel.

Allan  

Edited January 18, 2023 by allanyed

[oakheart]

2 hours ago, allanyed said:

and yields planking that looks like a real vessel. 

Well we hope so !
Thanks for all of your support here Allan, and everyone else, I could not of got to this point without it.

 

Tim

[oakheart]

So here we go.

First plank in place, used PVA with long open time so I had time to get it in the right place.

Let it glue up overnight.

 

 

very pleased with the no rabbet, just beveled the plank and  you can hardly see the join..............

 

 

1 down 15 more to do.........

 

Tim

[allanyed]

Break out the bubbly!!!  And make it a nice one like VC, but save the best one for the launching ceremony!

[Wintergreen]

Tim, it's a learning process and looks like you're doing good.

I also use regular PVA glue instead of the fast-tack model stuff. That model -glue is too stressful to use when it comes to certain tasks, like planking. For other applications it is perfect with its fast tack and hold.

 

Keep it up!

[oakheart]

15 minutes ago, allanyed said:

save the best one for the launching ceremony!

I think the bottle may be a tad large for this small boat, if I tried to smash it on the bow.  ................ oops.

 

Tim 🙂

 

[oakheart]

1 hour ago, Wintergreen said:

Tim, it's a learning process and looks like you're doing good.

Keep it up!

Thanks for the encouragement, it means a lot.

 

Tim

 

ps .I think my next model after I have finished this pair may well be a kit........

[Seamus107]

Just tuned in to this building log for the Bounty launch.  Good work so far, looking forward to seeing your progress in future posts.

 

james

 

[oakheart]

8 hours ago, Jnorton1946 said:

 Good work so far, looking forward to seeing your progress in future posts.

Thanks James, I will keep recording what I manage to get done, mistakes and all, as Håkan said it's a learning process.

 

Tim

[mtaylor]

I'm a bit late on this... but I've attached a PDF of a planking fan.   Next time just print as many as you need.  

 

plankingfan.pdf

[oakheart]

2 hours ago, mtaylor said:

 Next time just print as many as you need.

 

Next Time - ha ha, nice to see someone has faith in my new found skills ...

 

Tim

 

ps I have not been napping, but did not want to show plank by plank, more coming later today.

[oakheart]

Okay here as promised the next installment.

Got three planks in place over the last couple of days, taking it slow.

 

 

Third plank clamped in place

 

 

here is a close up after the clamps have been removed, a bit of clean up needed but pleased with it.

 

onto the 4th plank 

 

There is a a bit of a step of levels here, I think it's because the first plank did not glue down tight to the frame, hope I can sand the new plank level without sanding right through it.

 

 

 

here is a view of the whole thing, pretty pleased so far

 

 

comments please

 

Tim

 

Edited January 22, 2023 by oakheart

[iMustBeCrazy]

18 minutes ago, oakheart said:

comments please

So far so good?

 

19 minutes ago, oakheart said:

hope I can sand it level without sanding right through the plank

Should be all right, but you can measure the height of the step against the thickness of a plank.

 

The next pair or two should go about the same as the last, then it gets a bit more interesting.

 

Well done so far.

[oakheart]

29 minutes ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

then it gets a bit more interesting.

Thanks for the encouragement, even more interesting 🙂

This is actually pretty good at getting me to slow down and not rush, rush to get onto the next thing.

 

Tim

 

[CiscoH]

Tim- planking looks great!  the garboard always gives me fits getting it to not curve upwards.  And then when i get it fitted its always uneven to its opposite when seen stern-on.  you seem to have both these tasks done perfect.  and keeping the garboard flush with the keel without a rabbit.  mine would have had tiny gaps.

 

i wonder if adding a plug or another bulwark, even if its removed later, at the stem would help provide purchase.  thats a compound plank bending area with a lot going on and i would worry it’ll be hard to get good edge to edge planking without more underlying support.  i ended up with some translucent bow planking on my 18th century whaleboat after sanding due to unevenness.

 

anyway my two ¢.  keep up the great work this is a very interesting project

 

cisco

[druxey]

You might try a hot iron, pressure and moisture to bed that garboard down more. Make sure the iron is not too hot, though!