USS Constitution by Hipexec - FINISHED - Constructo - 1:82

[robnbill]

I take the line and wet the end with CA then wipe it off. Then snip the end at a 45 degree angle and you have a needle. However, if the line is very close to the circumference of the hole, the CA can swell the line to be too large to fit. However, the line should not be that close to the same.

 

So on the dead eyes, I start by tying a double knot on the end, hit that with a bit of CA then snip the line at the knot. Then CA the other end, snip it, then start lacing. 

 

It works for me. I used this on the Cannon as well.

[GuntherMT]

I did the same as Bill - create a 'needle' out of the end of the rope with CA and cutting an angle.

 

I also downsized the rigging line on the deadeyes, as the line there should be quite a bit smaller than the shroud lines.  For many of the blocks on the Carmen, even though I used a slightly smaller line than included in the kit, I still used a micro-drill and pin-vise and drilled all of the holes in the blocks larger to take the line as it simply wouldn't fit without this.

 

You may want to consider whether you should be using smaller rope for the deadeyes based on looking at photo's of the real ship as a reference, or just go with what looks right to you.  Here is a shot from Google image search of the real ship -

[src]

So on the dead eyes, I start by tying a double knot on the end, hit that with a bit of CA then snip the line at the knot. 

Bill, what does knotting the line then cutting it off after your CA dries do for you?

Sam

[robnbill]

The CA is used to firm the knot up. It also keeps the knot from deforming and pulling through the deadeye hole. This allows me to lace the thread into the deadeye with the knot firmly up against the deadeye and no excess thread sticking out of the dead end of the line. I used the CA on the other end of the thread to make the needle end. So I have a knot on one end (trimmed closely to the knot) and CA needle on the other end.

Edited October 24, 2014 by robnbill

[src]

Ahhhhhh I see now! What I read was you cut the knot off after the CA!

Back to you Rich, Sorry, didnt mean to steal your log.

Sam

[HIPEXEC]

Wow! You guys are great. I'll make CA needles. I've got about 60 of these to make just to rig the three masts upper and lower. The CA needles will save me one heck of a lot of time.

Thanks!

[Jack12477]

I go to Jo-Anns or some other Fabric/Arts & Crafts store and get Beading Needles - the kind use to string beads - they are flexible metal wire with a loop in one end that collapses as you pull the thread (line) through the whole in the deadeye or block. The come in packs of 8-10 and are relatively inexpensive and last for quite a while.

[HIPEXEC]

Beading needles here I come!

[GuntherMT]

I tried both beading needles and needle threaders and neither worked as they both required pulling a doubled over rigging rope through a hole that a single rope would barely fit through.

 

I'll try to bring some examples with me tomorrow Rich and demonstrate.

[GLakie]

You could try either some smaller size rope (those lanyards need to be considerably smaller than the shrouds anyway), or reaming the deadeye holes just enough to reeve them.

 

Cheers

[HIPEXEC]

Well, I bought two types of beading needles. Flexible with a big collapsable loop, and open eye which is two needles welded at each tip with a big center opening. They both worked very well along with the CA tipped line. Thanks to all I now have three ways to thread the blocks.

[capnharv2]

One thing to remember with beading needles or needle threaders is to make sure your deadeyes are of good quality. If made of soft wood or bad grain direction, the diameter of the combination needle and line could split the deadeye.

 

Rich, when you get to running rigging, the beading needle and/or CA needle on the end of the line will again come in handy.

 

Thanks,

 

Harvey

[HIPEXEC]

I'll give beeswax a try also.

[Sjors]

I never hear of those needles.......

Typically for the USA ?????

 

Sjors

[capnharv2]

Sjors,

 

I assume you've seen regular needle threaders before:

 

 

I hadn't heard of beading threaders before though.

 

Thanks,

 

Harvey

[HIPEXEC]

I never did either, but when I went to the sewing shop....they had them. You can go on E-Bay and see them also.

[HIPEXEC]

By the way...we just had the second meeting of The Arizona Shipwrights and I always learn something there since most are master builders. Today's tip was....use a straight nail clipper for small clipping jobs.

[cookster]

Rich, she's looking awesome!  You've coma a long way in little over a year. Can't believe you're already masting and rigging.  Keep up the good work!

[mtdoramike]

I agree with Bob, I have always glued the masts in place. This way, I can make sure they are in line with each other and it allows me to put a little pressure on them while rigging. I do all the rigging on the model and with masts in place and none off the model.

[robnbill]

I drilled a small hole in the foot of the main mast and inserted the end of a needle. This gave me just enough grab to stabilize it. I only had to do this on the main. The others seem stable enough for me to rig. I will know shortly. I have finished the mizzen and will be starting the main next.

[Sjors]

Thanks Harvey......

 

I know such things and I use them by myself !!!!!!

 

Sjors

[HIPEXEC]

My Admiral is making me close my shipyard for twelve days so we can cruise to the Sea of Cortez and do some snorkeling.

[Mahuna]

Have a great time Rich.  By the time you get back we'll be on our trip to New Zealand.

 

Frank

[dgbot]

I've been amazed at all the parts people on here use manila folder type paper for Rich, it's been a real eye opener, and I'm sure I'll be using some of that technique myself before too long.

 

The mast looks great.

You can also use a brown paper bag as well.  When painted it looks like an iron strap but in the proper thickness.

David B

[HIPEXEC]

My shipyard is open, but the workers are fat and lazy after 11 days cruising the Sea of Cortez.

[HIPEXEC]

I'm starting a deadeye factory since I give up trying to weave them on the rigging and still getting them even.

[rafine]

Rich, I'd be concerned that by doing it this way you may be creating more problems than you're solving. It will surely increase the difficulty of mounting the lower deadeyes and/or make seizing the upper deadeyes into the shrouds a fussier proposition. In addition, it appears that you've ended the lanyards on the deadeyes, rather than hitching them to the shrouds.

 

Bob

[GuntherMT]

Welcome back Rich, hope you had a wonderful vacation.

 

I agree that doing the deadeyes this way is going to make it more difficult. Consider mounting the lower ones in the chain plates and then using a jig to hold the upper ones in place while attaching the shrouds, and then doing the final lines.

 

I'd be happy to show you how I made a small jig (unfortunately only after the main mast was done unevenly) to do this. I'm at the office now so can't do pictures. Give me a call if you would like me to drive by after work, or I'll get some photos tonight.

[HIPEXEC]

Bob & Brian,

Your suggestions are very valid, but I think I figured a different way of skinning this cat. I had a heck of a time doing it the traditional way on my first model. Time will tell.

Thanks,

[HIPEXEC]

I'm attempting to mount the main mast permanently. I've been playing with not mounting the masts and keeping them straight with the rigging and I'm not happy with that approach using my limited talents.  I'm using two levels and a jig to get it straight and with a 3 degree rake.