Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Center Keel

 

Time to lay the keel down… Obviously this is where the actual ship began construction, but I’m only now getting to this critical element on my build.

 

I laid the keel down in manageable sections using .030 x .080 Styrene strips.  Not sure this would be exact to scale, but it closely lines up to the width shown on my 1/200 scale print of the hull bottom.

KeelStyrene.thumb.jpg.c76d3d0ee0f1fe7393569d6141675559.jpg

The critical thing is to keep it straight all the way down the length of the underbody.  I taped a straight edge against the styrene and began cementing down the aligned strip in two-inch increments – moving the straight edge along as I worked my way from bow to stern.  I also had a small piece of scrap styrene that perfectly fit into the needed gap between the keel and the inner edge of the hull plating that I test fitted as I glued each strip.

 

The forward most keel section was tapered to meet the kit keel at the bow.  

BowKeel.thumb.jpg.4637269cd40e7e3f63b88d8c3419deeb.jpg

The stern section was angled down toward the sternpost and filed to blend.

FilingStern.thumb.jpg.c4b19cac595c51cdb22a94773c1d2467.jpg

Stern.thumb.jpg.3c30a98424062480b4860eb76f114810.jpg

It really takes some effort to make sure that the keel stays straight and true all the way across the length of the hull.

Keel2.thumb.jpg.404344286f3486510666d31e49426260.jpg

CenterKeel4.thumb.jpg.7fe07d97c69e59b852caa35de91e462e.jpg

Butt Straps

 

Generally, the hull plates were overlapped and riveted together across the length of the hull.  There was, however, a section of strakes lower down in the hull that had the butt ends set flush together without the overlap.  These plates were held together with “butt straps” – small plates riveted to the ends of the abutting hull plates.

 

See my orange highlights in Bob Read’s hull plan:

ButtStraphighlight.thumb.jpg.3a144a4e3f2f36ac9b09376e57699cb7.jpg

(Note that the port side butt straps are indicated with dotted outlines in Bob’s drawing and are offset port vs starboard.)

 

The Trumpeter kit seems to include faint outlines of these straps in the approximately correct location forward of the bilge keels. No indication, however, on the strakes aft of the bilge keels.  

 

Bob’s drawing shows five of these forward and four aft.  In a perfect world these butt straps would all line up against a single strake across the length of the kit underbody. This would include the tops of the butt straps that peek out above (and below) the bilge keels.  Unfortunately, the compromises made by Trumpeter in molding the hull have made it tough to add these butt straps with all the top edges aligned against one hull strake.

 

I’ll need to fudge things a bit to get these represented on my model. I’ll go ahead and use the kit outlined versions forward of the bilge keels for positioning my straps.  Aft of the keel I’ll align them against the existing kit hull strakes - marked first with a pencil.  

Pre-existstraps.thumb.jpg.581a21ec1e38531371f08290c27bac56.jpg

Thin .010 x .156 strips of styrene will be used for these butt straps:

ButtStrapStyrene.thumb.jpg.06a03f962e1eaad1b406ffd941c72d0d.jpg

These will all sit in line with the “in” strakes of the molded hull.  I inserted small snips of styrene to fill the gap to create a flush surface before overlaying the butt straps:

ButtStrapunder.thumb.jpg.72c6f46b1ec0557fcc6cb9d6e277cd67.jpg

The corners of the styrene were first rounded and then cemented in place.

Corners.thumb.jpg.2d1f0d9c0edefa8baac2646cb7666658.jpg

Once put in place, I came back along and sanded down the straps to reduce the dimension – didn’t want these to stand out too proud against the hull. Tape protected the hull while I used an Emory board.

StrapsThinning.thumb.jpg.65762ae87ec64fe7ea41d2a82d2702c8.jpg

Sample views:

ButtStrapsgrid.thumb.jpg.132a390903e550c4112d069d1f547e73.jpg

 

 

Strapsunderneath.thumb.jpg.8b7cd72067bdc4e5be5f8c9026faefaf.jpg

I’ve decided to hold off on adding the bilge keels for now.  There is much abuse left to deliver on the hull and I think these keels will be fragile and vulnerable as I flip the hull on its side and upside down to make more modifications.  I can be patient and add these (along with more butt straps) at a later stage.

 

Miscellaneous Detail

 

I’ve also been tending to some of the smaller details along the hull.  

 

The historic photos show a small crease near the hull stern plates:

Platecreasephoto.thumb.jpg.9eea4026dc38def6f9ece8616ade2806.jpg

I grabbed the hobby knife and a micro chisel and went to work.

Crease.thumb.jpg.fce28bceb113ef0d2f4264a35d753a18.jpg

Thanks again for the interest everyone has shown (and the patience between updates).

 

Pondering next steps – probably the propeller wings.

 

Cheers,

Evan

Keel 1.jpg

Edited by Force9
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

 

Propeller Wings

 

The propeller wings on the Olympic class liners were graceful appendages that blended smoothly into the hull plating while supporting the massive prop shafts and propellers.  

OlympicRudderview.thumb.jpg.f87eca71ca067e8dea8b40c3ab761ed5.jpg

The Trumpeter kit representations…not so graceful.  This is one of those Trumpeter adaptations that don’t match well with the actual ship.  The kit wings meet the kit hull abruptly and look a bit out of place.  In fact, the Trumpeter kit has these placed a bit too low and they don’t align well to the nearby hull strakes – which are also out of alignment with what was in place on the Titanic.

 

The detail on these pieces is subpar… The plating is wrong and a little overscale.

 

There seem to be some 3D printed versions available online, but I think this is another case where these versions are too accurate – they’ll look out of place on the model.

 

I’ll reach back into my bin of styrene sheets and strips and try to make the best of what the kit provides.  I won’t try to correct the hull strakes and the prop wing placement, but I can add better detail and get things to blend more seamlessly.

 

First, I’ll remove all the surface detail from the pieces:

WingFile.thumb.jpg.9e4e94781ae25c71038a48e41032399b.jpg

WingSanding.thumb.jpg.95c8bcf7319bfc303eb22687feb3f1ca.jpg

WingSmooth.thumb.jpg.97fc4b301849e1e039dc391da0932f44.jpg

I cemented the pieces together and added half round strips to the ends:

Halfroundends.thumb.jpg.a722bd90051cd277d3138fc27f40ad57.jpg

After attaching the wings to the kit, I was worried that there wasn’t enough surface contact where they meet the hull. I’ve reinforced them by adding thin half round strips into the crease where they meet the hull.  The curved side faces into the kit to maximize the surface contact:

Wings1.thumb.jpg.fce080ddcb1aa85e9839b5fb9df3da2e.jpg

1sthalf.thumb.jpg.49a32daca92011cac62d1e3c1bf9740f.jpg

 

Next, another larger half round strip was added above the first to fill in the gap and provide an angled surface for the styrene strips that will blend into the hull strakes.

 

I laid the first strip on the upper surface to serve as the baseline for the other elements. This was a .010 x .156 strip that was liberally doused with cement and pressed flat.  The top edge was trimmed to match the adjoining hull strake.

Firststrip.thumb.jpg.a40d3ae733a8701b7f8bf613485dd6b3.jpg

The remaining elements were fashioned from .005” Styrene sheet that I ordered directly from Evergreen… Hard to find these thin sheets at local hobby stores or model train shops.

Thinsheet.thumb.jpg.b2c1aca61e6d5f25253a3e4efa7053f8.jpg

The next “plate” was traced using Tamiya Tape to make a template for a tight fit:

Tapetemplate1.thumb.jpg.af2119a85b17b1cabf5730d3e9d4c5da.jpg

…then transferred to the .005 sheet.

Tapetrace.thumb.jpg.386d529c1b2f094c66e321c736fc023e.jpg

 

 

Tapetracepiece.thumb.jpg.0b9fd7877486c439ec335d33a67bdd75.jpg

2ndstrip.thumb.jpg.1c0ac78f906dc80af68429dc99010dc3.jpg

The remaining plates were added using the same process.

Firstpass.thumb.jpg.cb699c31ce44579373374cd194fc8b30.jpg

For the underside, strips of .010 x .156 were used. The ends were all trimmed to align with the bottom edge of the nearest hull strake.

Bottom1.thumb.jpg.258028171e59129a592caff1248e7ad2.jpg

Bottom2.thumb.jpg.d6188a52eba7e6d31c95585133cc554a.jpg

Any gaps or blemishes were filled with Tamiya modeling putty and sanded smooth after drying overnight:

Filler.thumb.jpg.1a9f2a2fe4cb216392b516436478244d.jpg

Smoothing.thumb.jpg.65979f281a3af7cd149ca3ace74304b1.jpg

Some sample views:

Sample1.thumb.jpg.e9ad1fab1f9fd3608ff05c163a049a14.jpg

 

 

 

Sample3.thumb.jpg.cb272bc0d00d5905c3d76ed9eb9a2b4e.jpg

 

Sample2.thumb.jpg.f1c3fe8c33bc41f13f9a213c7ba38e7f.jpg

Still a bit more work to do… Including the starboard side wing.

 

I’ll define the individual plates and add final details on the next post.

 

Cheers,

Evan

Edited by Force9
Posted

Been lurking on this build so far without commenting. Incredible discipline and dedication to fidelity on this! Every time I think you’ve got the hull 100% accurate you update another Trumpeter error. Can’t wait to see it painted, it’s going to be impressive.

Posted (edited)

@Paul Jarman Thanks for the note... It seemed to me that there were a million portholes as I was drilling them out... Gawd forbid I have to add the rivets!!!

I popped in on your build - great to see a wood kit that lets you construct a much more accurate hull underbody.

 

@richardhd Thank you for popping in too.  I appreciate any encouragement.  I suspect you're not the only lurker... Unless 7 people are clicking on my build a thousand times each.  

 

I'll say that this kit can never be 100% accurate - but I will try to move things a bit closer to the historic ship where possible.  Most purists would probably not take this on because of the discrepancies - or abandon ship midway thru in exasperation.

 

Don't hold your breath awaiting paint... I'll likely put off painting the hull as long as possible.  It'll become a much more fragile thing that will be susceptible to scratches, blemishes and dust... I'll avoid those risks until I absolutely have to apply paint in order to proceed.

 

Thanks to all for the Likes and the patience between updates.

 

Cheers

Evan

Edited by Force9
Posted
6 minutes ago, Force9 said:

I suspect you're not the only lurker...

 

I probably fall into that "lurker" category, as well, Evan.  I've got the Titanic in my shipyard, but may never get to it.  In case I do, though, I'm paying attention to as many build logs as I can!  Great work on yours, sir!  Carry on! 

Gregg

 

Current Projects:                                                             Completed Projects:                                                                 Waiting for Shipyard Clearance:

 Santa Maria Caravelle 1:48 - Ships of Pavel Nikitin     Norwegian Sailing Pram 1:12 - Model Shipways                    USS Constitution 1:76 - Model Shipways

                                                                                              Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack 1:24 - Model Shipways        Yacht America Schooner 1851 1:64 - Model Shipways 

                                                                                              H.M. Schooner Ballahoo 1:64 - Caldercraft                             RMS Titanic 1:300 - OcCre (May now never get to it)

                                                                                              Bluenose 1921 1:64 - Model Shipways

Posted (edited)

@GGibson Hello Gregg - Thanks for the compliment... I hope my efforts have some value to other Titanic builders and hopefully you'll reconsider and put your Titanic into the builder's yard.

 

Cheers

Evan

Edited by Force9
  • 2 months later...
Posted

@Roger Pellett

 

Look what I finally found!

 

TitanicShipsTitanicDisast.thumb.jpg.88edf30b3834354f71f234a19590d611.jpg

 

Your book recommendation started to seem familiar to me... I searched all over for it.  Turns out my daughter had it with her at college!  Demonstrates her interest in all things Titanic related...

 

I now have it  bedside and am reading several chapters a night... Fascinating stuff.  Great to get the perspective of Naval architect types.

 

In the meantime...

 

Folks - I apologize for the lack of updates.  I've been stalling while I consider adding a YouTube series about this build.  I need to build up the necessary equipment from scratch so I've petitioned St. Nick to add some packages under the Christmas tree.  There is the sticky matter of being a "Good Boy" this year... I've done a back of the envelope calculation and I'm optimistic that on balance I have a net positive rating across the year.  In the meantime, I'm getting up to speed on video editing.

 

Stay tuned!

 

Cheers all

Evan

 

 

Posted

Good luck with your You Tube build. Perhaps you're familiar with it but if not there is a Trumpeter build on YouTube by the Midwest Modeler https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLdPY23NZym_sO8c4E9Ma0UrCye7yq8BYF. It's very comprehensive and covers all the possible after market fittings as well.

Greg

website
Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

Posted (edited)

Evan,

 

Glad you’re enjoying the book.  Jack Woodward taught Marine Engineering courses at the University of Michigan when I was a student there. As Naval Architecture and Marine Engineering was a very small Department in a large University we came to know our professors personally and he was a great teacher.  After Retiring, I wrote a monograph analyzing the 1896 era steam propulsion plant of the SS Meteor, the last of 44 Whaleback type ships once built in the Duluth MN, Superior, WI harbor.  Woodward generously agreed to review the monograph for me before it was published by Superior Public Museums, the museum ship’s manager.

 

I have never met Garzke but I did write a review of the book for the Nautical Research Journal and corresponded with him via email regarding rivet strength. He concluded that the ship was just traveling too fast for the conditions. If you or your daughter would like a copy of his email to me send me a PM.

 

Roger

Edited by Roger Pellett
Posted

@dvm27 I am familiar with the terrific YouTube series that Ben (and Nora) put together for the Trumpeter Titanic... I especially appreciate that he acknowledge his mistakes (that we ALL make) along the way and showed his recovery process.  His outline of all of the 3rd party options is extremely helpful.  There are other great YouTube logs for the kit and I'm not certain that the world needs ANOTHER one... But I hope to bring a fresh perspective.  In particular, I'd like to emphasize the enhancements and various corrections that I'll be including in my build to move it closer to a more accurate representation of the ship.  As you've seen in my build log here, I'll also include background on my research wherever applicable... I'm not sure that what I've seen so far in the Vlogosphere  does a complete job of showing WHAT is being done, HOW it is being done, and WHY it is being done.  This'll be important in my YouTube approach to illustrate my scratch build elements - a key difference from other YouTube logs to date.  We'll see if I can pull it off.

 

@patrickmil  Aye Patrick  This group will be the first to know.  I don't think I'll publicize my channel beyond this space for a few months until I gather feedback from you all... I'll always update my build log here first... It'll help me organize my thoughts/approach for my YouTube versions. 

 

Cheers

Evan

Posted

@Roger Pellett

 

Ahoy Roger... The book has some fascinating insights and I am learning a lot that isn't included in the normal fare that we all consumed about the Titanic over the years.

 

I will PM you regarding the email insights.

 

I do like the professional assessment that Naval Engineers provide about the Titanic disaster... Sure, the rivets varied in relative tensile strength and the cold temperatures of the North Atlantic may have played a part in their failure... There was a smoldering fire in a coal bunker that may have weakened the nearby bulkhead and made it vulnerable to hydrostatic failure... But ultimately the Titanic was state of the art and built to the highest standards available in that era.  

 

After extensive research and recent insight I've unearthed the TRUE reason for the tragedy of the Titanic... Psst (in whispered tones)... While steaming along at over 20 knots she sideswiped an iceberg in the North Atlantic.  The rivets would've failed regardless... The internal bulkheads would ultimately fail to protect her regardless... No level of 1912 era technology would've saved her.

 

Sure... Plowing straight into the berg might've kept her afloat with massive casualties in the forward section.  But nobody then or now should advocate for Murdoch to have made that choice.

 

I should include this stuff in my YouTube log!

 

Cheers

Evan

Posted

Evan,

 

I have enjoyed your posts, the information, and the pace at which you proceed.  Looking forward to more.

 

YouTube is a good platform for show and tell, and I think it will be another resource for all of us working on, and reminiscing about our own journeys with the Titanic.

 

I have started an offline journal of my own journey with Titanic and Trumpeter, and have toyed with the idea of sharing it with others.  My hesitation has been the worry that the work involved in posting, photos, video, would turn this into a project twice as difficult.  This is why I really liked the way you and others have shared here.

 

I will continue to follow your progress and others in this community, and hope to learn and find a level of voice that works best for me, that is meaningful enough to share with others.

 

Merry Christmas to you and yours!

 

Loni

Posted
On 6/7/2023 at 2:27 AM, Force9 said:

The Bow Hawse Pipe

 

The bow of the Olympic class liners had a distinctive opening for the bow hawse pipe: 

Bowdetail.jpg.95de3391eab0d225702adbfa07b517c8.jpg

This opening was used for the infrequent deployment of the bow center anchor that was stowed in a well on the foredeck.  Probably also handy in certain mooring and towing situations.

 

The Trumpeter kit includes a very generic roundish appendage to represent this feature.  A big miss in accuracy that is hard to reconcile.

KitBowHawse.thumb.jpg.dd6236fa42563362525e1212c0713fcf.jpg

I was a bit worried about correcting this since screwing it up would be very noticeable on the model - but leaving the inaccurate kit version in place seemed to be a worse option.  Something needed to be done.

 

There is a very attractive 3D print that Arturo Anzures has available on the Shapeways site that could be a nice solution. Unfortunately, this option requires some serious surgery on the kit that will involve quite a bit of finesse and epoxy putty to properly incorporate.  I’m a bit squeamish about going down that path.

 

If I’m willing to work with the general dimensions of the kit version (slightly wider than historical scale) I think I can fashion a simpler solution that will get me a decent result.

 

Here I go…

 

First, I notched out a section in front of the kit version using a hobby knife, micro-chisel, and a flat file. 

Notch1.thumb.jpg.9842085ee3b0628c888128856e0280d2.jpg

This creates a space to insert a small bit of styrene shaped appropriately to resemble the historic contours of the hawse pipe.  

NewHawsecutout.thumb.jpg.6135c48e9f582b5e0caaeeca011919c2.jpg

The piece was sized to the same width as the kit version to minimize the need to carve up the plastic and to maximize the surface area for the solvent.

Affixed1.thumb.jpg.3b76acf4a8b8d75011240f5d0d437afc.jpg

After getting it affixed, I went ahead and drilled out the hawse pipe opening.

Drill.thumb.jpg.362e886eed735589399c87c2993e1350.jpg

I first drilled a small pilot hole, then went back again with a larger bit for the final version.

 

At this point I had the framework of the new hawse pipe in place and just needed to fill behind the new styrene with epoxy putty to establish the final contours.

 Hawser1.thumb.jpg.62a0a3358eea83d108a11af21a120af5.jpg

Hawser2.thumb.jpg.cc2f89a61842170c680e3df2cf5b3b9a.jpg

I’m not a frequent user of Milliput, but I do appreciate having some on hand for the right moments.  The White Superfine version works best for me.

Milliput1.thumb.jpg.06718f6a34cbc300f668975642bb2d9c.jpg

I wear disposable gloves to mix the two components together between my fingers and then roll it back and forth on some tin foil (to protect my work surface from the residue).

Milliput2.thumb.jpg.99eef7aaa336ad7043a7b8cb6f572101.jpg

I used some scrap styrene to fashion a few simple shaping tools to help mold the epoxy into the final form.

 

The styrene hawse piece defines the overall shape as I add putty to back fill behind. Having a small cup of water nearby is critical… Milliput is easily smoothed and manipulated if I dip my shaping tools in water as I go along.  

Pass1.thumb.jpg.0437abc1eb954b241f1c6be7d3c6314a.jpg

The first pass does not need perfection – it just needs to represent the rough outline. I’ll come back with progressively finer sanding paper to smooth everything out.

 

Round sanding sticks are useful for the next step:

SandingStix.thumb.jpg.0840deb7e4edcfc361a21db13087aaab.jpg

The internal hawse pipe opening is widened and smoothed out to better match against the historic references.

Pass4.thumb.jpg.76b4c163f1e0bf8018e6a5694205d92c.jpg

Pass2.thumb.jpg.3ee2c97fdbc60b4272cf9769064c65d3.jpg

 

I’ll stand pat with this result until I get to the primer stage.  Like some other areas on the hull, I’ll make refinements and finalize everything once the primer helps fill and smooth out some of the rough surfaces and otherwise reveals the imperfections.

 

This turned out to be less painful than I thought it would be…!

 

Cheers,

Evan

 

Posted

Absolutely love your approach and quality of work, I can see we’re this is going so it’s right up my street for when I start my own Titanic build, which shall be for my daughter, downside of this is it’ll be a while down the slipway as I’m going to do the Bismarck for my youngest Son first. Don’t know if this will help you but have been looking at some really excellent photo etch made by Woodys Model Works, some of it for doing the interior state rooms, his research and the quality of his product think shall be right up your street. I also purchased a detail set for her that I thought was even better than the Pontos set, this set also had some brilliant resin detail for all around the ship, also bought some excellent resin funnels that were better than the rap around brass approach by Woody and Pontos, if your interested I shall get back to you on this as am on holiday just now but shall check out for you when I get back home. Titanic is a beautiful ship and think your model is going to be doing her justice, can’t give you a better compliment than that. Enjoy and take your time. 🤛

Posted

I'm working on a Titanic model as well (other thread below) but mine is no-where near this level of precision or detail.  I'm literally building a pond-float display model that'll be seen from 50+ feet away.  

 

Your model will stand up to 50mm away inspection.  

 

Impressive work, and well done on the hawse-pipe!

 

NS
 

Brad/NavyShooter

 

Build Log: HMS Blackpool - 1/144 3D Print RC

Build Log:   HMCS Bonaventure- 1/96 - A Fitting Out

Completed Build: RMS Titanic - 1/100 - 3D Print - Pond Float display

Completed Build:  HMCS St Thomas - 1/48 - 3D printed Bens Worx

Completed Build:  3D Printed Liberty Ship - 1/96 - RC

 

A slightly grumpy, not quite retired ex-RCN Chief....hanging my hat (or helmet now...) in the Halifax NS area. 

Posted
On 1/27/2023 at 11:09 PM, Force9 said:

I decided to start a build log for this project after tinkering around a bit with the kit across the past year or so.  I’ve hesitated because I know that there are many passionate folks out there who scrutinize every aspect of the great ship and can be very strong minded about the myriad details in play.  I will make plain my intention to do justice to Titanic but will likely fall short on complete historic exactitude… Especially considering that the ground is constantly moving as scholars and enthusiasts refine our understanding of the ship’s details.

 

I need to confess up front that I am not a Titanic guy.  The great tragedy and human folly of her demise has always pushed me away from the subject… Just too sad.  Additionally, I need to confess that I have never seen the entire James Cameron movie.  I went with my wife to see it in the theater back in the day, but we left halfway through – literally right after the ship struck the iceberg.  I leaned over to my wife and whispered “spoiler alert – this doesn’t end well, and I couldn’t care less if all the spoiled and selfish main characters go down with the ship.  Let’s get outta here and beat the crowd to the good restaurant nearby”. I’ve never seen the rest of the movie.

 

That is not to say, however, that this project won’t be a labor of Love.  I am building this for my daughter.  She has been fascinated by the Titanic tragedy from a very young age.  At age six she could tell you all about Captain Smith going down with the ship and nurse Jessop and her surviving multiple sinkings, etc. She made me get up in the wee hours on the exact date/time of the 100th anniversary of her sinking to ring a bell in commemoration. We’ve even toured Margaret Brown’s home in Denver (nobody called her “Molly” in her lifetime).  She is more interested in the human stories than the ship itself but will very much appreciate this representation when it is finally completed.

 

It was always a head scratcher for me that Trumpeter started their new line of 1/200 scale ships with the USS Arizona back in 2012.  It seemed to me that Titanic would’ve made more sense.  It was the 100th anniversary of her sinking and is clearly a very popular subject as we can see with the explosion of 3rd party add-ons and doo dads that have proliferated in the marketplace to enhance the model. There is a significant cottage industry that has since formed just around this kit.  I suppose better late than never for the folks at Trumpeter.

 

The workshop out in the garage has been reorganized and made shipshape:

 

150161313_Workshop1.thumb.jpg.a7063ea92d40fd277ea7f3ad31922375.jpg

 

Hopefully you get some sense for the size of the model.  It is big.

 

I have thrown all the relevant documentation into a binder so that I can have quick access to key references.  Sliding the pages into clear sleeves also allows me to overlay notes with a grease pencil or Sharpie pen.

 

980779385_BinderCover2.thumb.jpg.878e121946e6813c600932039fa2dccb.jpg

1988952173_BinderContent.thumb.jpg.a2aecca8af5dc33e7082997d1f562be4.jpg

 

 

I will forego the box opening and contents review – folks can find all that in many other logs and online resources. I will however include this quick view of the Trumpeter packaging… All very neat and carefully laid out (as is the case with all their kits that I’ve got in my stash).

 

1172226640_BoxPackaging.thumb.jpg.10bbdd85479fb01fa129589fc801e83b.jpg

 

Most modelers will splurge and invest in either the KA Models upgrade set or the one made by Pontos.  Both have their pros and cons, but I have opted for the KA set.  I like the extensive 3D print and resin components and the etched brass is very comprehensive.  Again – I won’t lay out all the contents here… That is easily found in other logs or the KA website.

 

I do have various other add ons including several brass sheets from Woody’s Model Works.  Very nice stuff and highly recommended.  (Neil Woods is in a bit of a hiatus right now as he figures out how to deal with UK VAT requirements).

 

I’m not sure I’ll go down the LED route.  Certainly, Titanic is the perfect model for LED treatment, but it generally isn’t my thing – not sure the extra time/effort will be worthwhile.  Still pondering…

 

A note about online resources.  Ken Marschall has long been a great visualizer of the Titanic, but anyone who is taking this kit seriously will find their way to three key players:

 

Robert Read – Mr. Read has a great catalog of white papers and research material that he has created and maintained on his website Titanic CAD Plans.  He illuminates many fascinating details, resolves conflicts and controversies, and explains many of the inner workings of Titanic’s systems and gear. Terrific resource.

 

Vasilije Ristovic’ – Most Titanic aficionados will know Vasilije’s work.  His digital renderings of Titanic bring the great ship back to life and are breathtaking. His thoughtfully researched images shed light on many unique details and provide a terrific color guide for those of us trying to navigate our paint choices. He also has a very impressive 1/200 Titanic model of his own in progress.

 

Cyril Codus – Mr. Codus is a gifted digital artist who has created some outstanding full-length profiles of Titanic and her sisters. He also has very detailed overhead deck views that highlight the positioning of deck equipment and rigging.  Incredibly useful stuff. You can find samples on his website RMS Titanic Art Work.

 

For those who can stomach Facebook, there are several terrific resources utilized by the Titanic community:

 

RMS Titanic Model Research and Tech hosted by Zeno Silva and friends.  You’ll find Bob Read, Cyril, and Vasilije all contributing here.

 

Trumpeter TITANIC 1/200th model ONLY building tips and tricks hosted by Gene Davis.  This is an essential meeting place for the Titanic modeler community with extensive Guides and downloadable files to facilitate enhancement of the kit.  Gene shows remarkable patience and perseverance amongst the wide spectrum of modelers that post on his pages. (Although I’m sure that Gene’s head will explode if one more novice jumps in to ask about three bladed props versus four…)

 

RMS Titanic – 3D Illustrations by Vasilije Ristovic.  This is where Vasilije posts most of his incredible Titanic renderings (and offers images for sale).

 

Visiting the Midwest Model Shop Youtube channel is also recommended.  Ben and his charming wife Nora walk through every stage of their 1/200 Titanic build and give a terrific overview of their process along the way.  It is refreshing to see an experienced modeler identify his own mistakes and show how he goes about correcting for them along the way. Includes terrific episodes about 3rd party upgrades – in particular the brass sheets from Neil Woods.

 

Regarding more traditional resources I do have a small library of books with lots of photos and tech specs:

 

Books.thumb.jpg.325bcf57321b217b58d93bbc5e4bd25d.jpg

 

I have not invested in the two-volume set TITANIC – The Ship Magnificent.  I think I have other sources for most of what I would glean from those pages and the investment just seems a bit much for now.  I’ll use those funds to purchase additional upgrades instead.

 

Give me a few days and I’ll 

On 1/27/2023 at 11:09 PM, Force9 said:

I decided to start a build log for this project after tinkering around a bit with the kit across the past year or so.  I’ve hesitated because I know that there are many passionate folks out there who scrutinize every aspect of the great ship and can be very strong minded about the myriad details in play.  I will make plain my intention to do justice to Titanic but will likely fall short on complete historic exactitude… Especially considering that the ground is constantly moving as scholars and enthusiasts refine our understanding of the ship’s details.

 

I need to confess up front that I am not a Titanic guy.  The great tragedy and human folly of her demise has always pushed me away from the subject… Just too sad.  Additionally, I need to confess that I have never seen the entire James Cameron movie.  I went with my wife to see it in the theater back in the day, but we left halfway through – literally right after the ship struck the iceberg.  I leaned over to my wife and whispered “spoiler alert – this doesn’t end well, and I couldn’t care less if all the spoiled and selfish main characters go down with the ship.  Let’s get outta here and beat the crowd to the good restaurant nearby”. I’ve never seen the rest of the movie.

 

That is not to say, however, that this project won’t be a labor of Love.  I am building this for my daughter.  She has been fascinated by the Titanic tragedy from a very young age.  At age six she could tell you all about Captain Smith going down with the ship and nurse Jessop and her surviving multiple sinkings, etc. She made me get up in the wee hours on the exact date/time of the 100th anniversary of her sinking to ring a bell in commemoration. We’ve even toured Margaret Brown’s home in Denver (nobody called her “Molly” in her lifetime).  She is more interested in the human stories than the ship itself but will very much appreciate this representation when it is finally completed.

 

It was always a head scratcher for me that Trumpeter started their new line of 1/200 scale ships with the USS Arizona back in 2012.  It seemed to me that Titanic would’ve made more sense.  It was the 100th anniversary of her sinking and is clearly a very popular subject as we can see with the explosion of 3rd party add-ons and doo dads that have proliferated in the marketplace to enhance the model. There is a significant cottage industry that has since formed just around this kit.  I suppose better late than never for the folks at Trumpeter.

 

The workshop out in the garage has been reorganized and made shipshape:

 

150161313_Workshop1.thumb.jpg.a7063ea92d40fd277ea7f3ad31922375.jpg

 

Hopefully you get some sense for the size of the model.  It is big.

 

I have thrown all the relevant documentation into a binder so that I can have quick access to key references.  Sliding the pages into clear sleeves also allows me to overlay notes with a grease pencil or Sharpie pen.

 

980779385_BinderCover2.thumb.jpg.878e121946e6813c600932039fa2dccb.jpg

1988952173_BinderContent.thumb.jpg.a2aecca8af5dc33e7082997d1f562be4.jpg

 

 

I will forego the box opening and contents review – folks can find all that in many other logs and online resources. I will however include this quick view of the Trumpeter packaging… All very neat and carefully laid out (as is the case with all their kits that I’ve got in my stash).

 

1172226640_BoxPackaging.thumb.jpg.10bbdd85479fb01fa129589fc801e83b.jpg

 

Most modelers will splurge and invest in either the KA Models upgrade set or the one made by Pontos.  Both have their pros and cons, but I have opted for the KA set.  I like the extensive 3D print and resin components and the etched brass is very comprehensive.  Again – I won’t lay out all the contents here… That is easily found in other logs or the KA website.

 

I do have various other add ons including several brass sheets from Woody’s Model Works.  Very nice stuff and highly recommended.  (Neil Woods is in a bit of a hiatus right now as he figures out how to deal with UK VAT requirements).

 

I’m not sure I’ll go down the LED route.  Certainly, Titanic is the perfect model for LED treatment, but it generally isn’t my thing – not sure the extra time/effort will be worthwhile.  Still pondering…

 

A note about online resources.  Ken Marschall has long been a great visualizer of the Titanic, but anyone who is taking this kit seriously will find their way to three key players:

 

Robert Read – Mr. Read has a great catalog of white papers and research material that he has created and maintained on his website Titanic CAD Plans.  He illuminates many fascinating details, resolves conflicts and controversies, and explains many of the inner workings of Titanic’s systems and gear. Terrific resource.

 

Vasilije Ristovic’ – Most Titanic aficionados will know Vasilije’s work.  His digital renderings of Titanic bring the great ship back to life and are breathtaking. His thoughtfully researched images shed light on many unique details and provide a terrific color guide for those of us trying to navigate our paint choices. He also has a very impressive 1/200 Titanic model of his own in progress.

 

Cyril Codus – Mr. Codus is a gifted digital artist who has created some outstanding full-length profiles of Titanic and her sisters. He also has very detailed overhead deck views that highlight the positioning of deck equipment and rigging.  Incredibly useful stuff. You can find samples on his website RMS Titanic Art Work.

 

For those who can stomach Facebook, there are several terrific resources utilized by the Titanic community:

 

RMS Titanic Model Research and Tech hosted by Zeno Silva and friends.  You’ll find Bob Read, Cyril, and Vasilije all contributing here.

 

Trumpeter TITANIC 1/200th model ONLY building tips and tricks hosted by Gene Davis.  This is an essential meeting place for the Titanic modeler community with extensive Guides and downloadable files to facilitate enhancement of the kit.  Gene shows remarkable patience and perseverance amongst the wide spectrum of modelers that post on his pages. (Although I’m sure that Gene’s head will explode if one more novice jumps in to ask about three bladed props versus four…)

 

RMS Titanic – 3D Illustrations by Vasilije Ristovic.  This is where Vasilije posts most of his incredible Titanic renderings (and offers images for sale).

 

Visiting the Midwest Model Shop Youtube channel is also recommended.  Ben and his charming wife Nora walk through every stage of their 1/200 Titanic build and give a terrific overview of their process along the way.  It is refreshing to see an experienced modeler identify his own mistakes and show how he goes about correcting for them along the way. Includes terrific episodes about 3rd party upgrades – in particular the brass sheets from Neil Woods.

 

Regarding more traditional resources I do have a small library of books with lots of photos and tech specs:

 

Books.thumb.jpg.325bcf57321b217b58d93bbc5e4bd25d.jpg

 

I have not invested in the two-volume set TITANIC – The Ship Magnificent.  I think I have other sources for most of what I would glean from those pages and the investment just seems a bit much for now.  I’ll use those funds to purchase additional upgrades instead.

 

Give me a few days and I’ll start to catch everyone up on my progress to date.

 

Cheers

Evan

 

👍Cheers

Evan

 

 

Posted (edited)

Evan, that’s a special build your doing there, can’t imagine where this is going and I have quite a good imagination 😂 see after looking at the start of your build log that you already have purchased the KA-Models upgrade set and have already purchased some of Woodys photo etch, have a strong suspicion you’ll be swayed into the fibre optics for interior, some of Woodys interior state room etch looks quite brilliant, hats of to that man indeed to all the aftermarket guys who persistently produce the goods that we all crave, indeed sometimes we buy the model because of them👍 The funnel set turned out to be from Model Monkey LLC bought about three years ago, again you are probably aware of these details. Funny that my daughter picked the same ship, unlike yourself she loved the film. Think I’ll be twisting her arm to buy some of those Woody sets when the time comes 🤞Jaqueline, my better half gave me the Titanic The Ship Magnificent books for my Xmas a few years back and they look quite comprehensive, it’ll still be a few year’s before I think will be starting this but definitely looking forward to it. Seems you’ll be helping me sort my mistakes before I make them, big thanks for that🤛 Definitely following this build, brilliant to see. Sorry for the long story Evan, just get carried away, happy modelling, think this shall keep you busy for a while.  Some photos of my parts at hand so far.

IMG_0241.jpeg

IMG_0240.jpeg

IMG_0239.jpeg

IMG_0242.jpeg

Edited by Jeff59
Posted

Evan,

Yes, not very sexy, but if you open 5 compartments in a two compartment ship to the sea it eventually sinks!  End of story.  Although she was state of the art for 1913, she was not sailor (or more accurately owner) proof.

 

My current project, the Great Lakes Steamship Benjamin Noble is another example of where an owner, or in this case his representative’s, misuse of a relatively new well designed ship resulted in a tragedy.  She was lost with all hands on Lake Superior overloaded with a heavy cargo that she was not designed to carry.  This happened in April 1914, exactly one year from the loss of Titanic.

 

Roger

Posted

Evan,

By coincidence I found your log. Clicked and read your opening intro to this build. hahaha  -

So you are not a "fan" of this ship. I then went through your superbly explained and photographed log. Well - you have indeed become a Titanic fanatic (huge compliment) making sure that your example could arguably become the best possible example of this Trumpeter kit given your scratch work (love the rudder BTW) and then you removed incorrect kit castings fixing those with your custom work. Great work!!!.

Will also follow with much interest. PS: I did see the movie until the end haha.

Cheers,

Michael

Current buildSovereign of the Seas 1/78 Sergal

Under the table:

Golden Hind - C Mamoli    Oseberg - Billings 720 - Drakkar - Amati

Completed:   

Santa Maria-Mantua --

Vasa-Corel -

Santisima Trinidad cross section OcCre 1/90th

Gallery :    Santa Maria - Vasa

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

@LAHF1  Ahoy Loni... Thank you for popping in... I appreciate your interest in my Titanic.  I hope you consider adding your perspective in a build log or some other format.  I find that keeping some sort of log helps me to organize my approach and maintain the long view needed to make progress.  Hope you had a great holiday season!

 

 

@Jeff59 You have a great start on gathering some terrific enhancements for the Trumpeter kit... Good stuff.  I'm being cautious about how much investment I need to make on 3rd party add-ons.  At some point they can detract rather than enhance... I'll try to focus on acquiring elements that solve for issues that I can't otherwise handle with some scratch building - or at least gain significant time advantages.  Model Monkey is a terrific resource - I've utilized some MM 3D prints for my Old Ironsides build.  Certainly the Titanic funnels are on my radar.  I do hope that my build helps with your efforts in some small way... At least serve as some sort of inspiration.

 

@NavyShooter I checked in on your Titanic... That is a big boat.  Impressive 3D printing - must've taken days to generate! Thanks again for looking in on my build.  

 

@Roger Pellett Please let us know if Naval architects do discover the necessary engineering needed in order to sailor proof anything that floats. 

 

@md1400cs  I'm happy you found your way here... I suppose at some point I'll have to admit that I'm immersed enough in all of Titanica that I'm another in a long list of Titanicphiles... A fan.  She is a beautiful ship and the circumstances of her end makes for compelling research in my quest to enhance the kit and move it closer to an accurate representation.

 

To that end... I'm gonna double down on the research side of the hobby.  I've decided it was time to join the club:

NRJ.thumb.jpg.a4eb8e566f5c73e2d2e7486f9bbf223e.jpg

 

I'm now a proud member of the Guild and have already benefitted from my first Journal issue... A great overview of a FFG build that will inform my own (eventual) kit build... An older brother served on a Perry class frigate while escorting tankers during the Persian Gulf war.

 

Cheers

Evan

 

Edited by Force9
  • 5 months later...
Posted

Apologies to everyone for the long delay… I spent some time across the past few months working on my US Frigate Constitution model along with a bunch of travel (including to the other coast for my daughter’s college graduation) that kept my Titanic on ice (so to speak).

 

Let me catch you up.

 

Propeller Wings Continued…

 

There was still some styrene to add to the propeller wing surfaces.  The top and bottom wings are now completely covered and additional styrene was bent and glued around the prop shaft/boss outer surface. 

 

StbWing1.thumb.jpg.8f8c64aae121be0c17944bed494f43ea.jpg

 

 

SternWings1.thumb.jpg.d6be983627438184d88f9a005ecc485c.jpg

 

BottomWings1.thumb.jpg.36a70f3ee499ff9602de2b60960809be.jpg

 

Added some thin strips to represent the plate overlaps in the same manner as the underbody hull plating… 

 

PortWingCloseup.thumb.jpg.32ef8799676de44eb42f7a9812b50051.jpg

 

Template1.thumb.jpg.2fe96d58971f559e1d3bf430fe85ff1f.jpgUsed Tamiya tape to make a template to help guide similar placement on the starboard wing to make sure it all looks equal from the stern.

I won’t be utilizing the kit provided propellers, but why not slide them on to get a quick perspective with everything in place?

PortwProp.thumb.jpeg.1d4849f02b7d636d6fd0b23df9f7e828.jpeg

 

Next up I’ll highlight my initial effort to thin out the sides of the hull around the open first-class lobby entry doors to better match the scale.

 

Cheers,

Evan

 

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Hello Everyone...

 

The summer heat has abated and I have been able to get back into the garage workshop and work comfortably... I've been busy.

Let me start catching folks up on my project...

 

1st Class Lobby Entry Doors

 

To add more “depth” to the model, I’ll be cutting open various doors and hatches to reveal some of the ship's interior.

 

The first-class entry lobbies are a good place to start.  Initially I just opened the doorways on the kit:

LobbyEntry3.thumb.jpg.0cab96ce2fbe612874a0a24a8be817fc.jpg

But this exposed the thick plastic sides… Probably not a big deal for some of the other doorways I’ll open, but these doors have some ornate gates that I’d like to add, and I want to thin things out a bit… So, some surgery is needed.

 

I used a drill to remove the area around the doors (but NOT the top or bottom edges) and filed the edges smooth.

StyreneSheet.thumb.jpg.a9fd0086b0f84bf67008b505775428c8.jpg

Then I carefully matched the dimensions using thin Styrene (.015”) to fill the opening and size the door openings.

LobbyEntry4.thumb.jpg.e65c1df62d9daa77ba900ce2629d571f.jpg

Everything is supported from behind with some small angle strips:

LobbyEntry5.thumb.jpg.88e415f5fff200196eee8113a9cf14e5.jpg

Next, I used a 1.0mm Riveting wheel to replicate the rivet pattern onto the back of .005” styrene sheet and trimmed to match. 

RivetTool1.thumb.jpg.952381c757329373fc08280b75355f81.jpg 

RivetTool3.thumb.jpg.d01a6ade3f0639473fc5f4e44b99ef99.jpg

Flipped it over and aligned the edges to match the kit then glued the .005” on to the underlying .015” elements.

 

The edges weren’t perfect, so some Tamiya putty was smeared into the gaps and filed smooth.

LobbyEntry10.thumb.jpg.06fce48b19e67e90768c0cbcc1b8d7ac.jpg

LobbyEntry7.thumb.jpg.07e28740793ab3af1ca6c2e8f1673c5b.jpg

Here’s where it stands now:

LobbyFinal.thumb.jpg.6bec6a88b1355176bd9abd042a1a117b.jpg

Likely needs some fine tuning after a coat of primer.

 

Cheers,

Evan

Edited by Force9
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Thanks all for the likes!

 

Double Strakes

I added some styrene strips to represent the additional double strakes along the upper hull.

 

These are only represented with faint outlines on the kit – likely a last minute addition by Trumpeter. 

DoubleStrakesoutlineEdit.thumb.jpg.8179e34c137b0912e42ea6bec54b5393.jpg

The locations of these appear to accurately align with Robert Read’s ship profile drawings:

BobReadStbddetailEdit.jpg.82bf24c8c089fbbe12c8af6f42b5d0e5.jpg

I’ll assume that these were part of the suggestions submitted by the Titanic Honor and Glory folks and Trumpeter tried to accommodate them without completely redoing the initial plastic injection molds.

 

I sized some strips from a sheet of .010” styrene and used a sharp blade to cut the angled shape of each end.

DoubleStrake1.thumb.jpg.6a4b3c67b7485fd98b9372e0b5544e24.jpg

 

DoubleStrake2.thumb.jpg.7a8dd8f5797b50f11a84b716ca9f870c.jpg

 

I’ll come back along and fill the narrow gaps with thinned Tamiya Putty before priming the hull.

 

Very simple to do and adds some good detail.

 

Cheers,

Evan

Posted

Evan,

I am very much enjoying following your build You’re also doing some great extra detail work as well.

As a kid, and as a teenager I grew up, of course, with plastic cars and airplanes. Looking at your work in this medium is inspiring, and adding great personal memories.

 

Excellent work and log. Your Titanic will be awesome indeed.  

PS in my opinion this ship does need to be built from plastic — PS 2 are you going to install real wood decks that are available for this kit? 

 

Cheers

Michael

Current buildSovereign of the Seas 1/78 Sergal

Under the table:

Golden Hind - C Mamoli    Oseberg - Billings 720 - Drakkar - Amati

Completed:   

Santa Maria-Mantua --

Vasa-Corel -

Santisima Trinidad cross section OcCre 1/90th

Gallery :    Santa Maria - Vasa

 

 

 

 

Posted

Hello @md1400cs - Thanks for your continued interest!  

 

I think that plastic kits have advantages for certain ships - particularly large scale representations like the Trumpeter Titanic.  However, they do generally have the associated disadvantage of the injection molding process - some contours just don't come out right.  

 

The level of detail that photo etch and 3d resin provides is next level - but has also bled over into high end wood kits as you well know.  I remember a note from Chris Watton on my Revell Constitution calling out the excellent detail that can be added with styrene scratch building.  All done in the interest of improving the interest and accuracy of our models!

 

And yes - I'll likely add a 3rd party wooden deck.  I have both the KA and Scaledecks at hand to choose from.

 

Thanks also to everyone for the LIKES.  Much appreciated.

 

Check back this weekend for new updates - thinning out the Well Deck bulwarks.

 

Cheers,

Evan

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...