HMS Indefatigable 1794 by Glenn-UK - FINISHED - Vanguardodel Ms - 1:64

[Glenn-UK]

Wales – Work In Progress

Over the last few days, I have been working on a birthday gift from my wife, which was Amati’s Royal Yacht (in a bottle). I managed to construct and shape the hull and to then paint and fit the deck and bulwarks. The problem came when I started to fit the deck items. I really struggled to located and secure the parts. After failing to fit the fore bitts and windlass assembly I decided to abandon this project as I do not have the requisite tools or eyesight (even with my magnifying glasses) as the ship is too small for me.

 

It was a nice gift to receive, and I am glad I tried to build it but unfortunately, in my opinion, it is a very poor-quality kit and very badly presented instructions.

 

You can see the difference in size in the photo below.

 

I have given the Indy hull good sand and it does look and feel reasonably smooth. I have also sanded the gun port openings. I am still debating if I should just add a varnish finish or if I should paint and copper the hull. I have started to add the wales. The first wale is a length of 4mmW boxwood. I was able to use Titebond and clamps when adding the top wale. I suspect I will have to revert to CA clue for the remaining 3 x 5mm wale planks.

 

 

 

 

[Kevin]

looking very good, sorry about the other project

[Glenn-UK]

40 minutes ago, Kevin said:

looking very good, sorry about the other project

I am pleased with the Indy now the second planking is complete. The Royal Yacht was a nice distraction but certainly not suitable for me.

Edited May 24, 2023 by Glenn-UK

[Blue Ensign]

The hull looks good Glenn, well done 👍

Are you not tempted to add top and butt planking below the Black strake for the wales.

 

B.E.

[Glenn-UK]

27 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

The hull looks good Glenn, well done 👍

Are you not tempted to add top and butt planking below the Black strake for the wales.

 

B.E.

Many thanks Maurice

I am not sure what you mean by the top and butt planking. According to the build instructions I still have to add 3 x 5mm planks below the top 4mmW wale (which is the one I have added.). I suspect you are referring to the patterned wale planking which I have just found on one of your build logs. Click on link

 

Edited May 24, 2023 by Glenn-UK

[Blue Ensign]

Yes, that's the one Glenn, but with Indy it would require two rows of  interlocking planks, four strakes deep in total..

 

B.E.

[Glenn-UK]

Wales – Completed

Blue Ensign did suggest that I should consider using a top and butt interlocking planking arrangement below the first wale. This would require 2 pairs of strakes to implement the interlocking pattern, 4 planks in total per side.

 

I calculated that it would be necessary to taper the planks down to 10mm overall for a good fit around the stern area. After careful consideration I decided it would not be practical to implement the top and butt interlocking planking arrangement as I would have to taper the 4 planks down to the required 10mm. I therefore decided to add 3 x 5mm planks as per the build manual requirements. I used a simple 3 butt shift arrangement when adding the wales. Each wale full plank was 192mmL which equates to 12m planks when scaled up to full size.

 

After giving the completed wales a light sand, I brushed the excess sawdust away with a damp brush before taking the attached photo’s.

[Blue Ensign]

The wales look good  anyway Glenn. 👍

 

B.E.

[Glenn-UK]

An Enforced Break - Planning Ahead

I am in the unfortunate position of taking an enforced break from the Indy as I have suffered a relapse of prolapsed disk in my lower back last week. I first suffered the prolapsed disk around 20 years ago when I bent over an desk to look at an engineering drawing. This time it was due to over extending myself whilst in the garden trimming a large hedge, bending over as I was sweeping up the debris. The back is now starting to respond to the rest so hopefully I can return to the shipyard in the next few days for short periods of time.

 

The time away from the Indy build means I am spending more time thinking of my next course of action with regards to the gundeck planking and spirketting which is to be added to the bottom of the inner bulwark patterns. I have the option of either fitting the laser etched deck pearwood part or to plank with the 4mmW box wood planks.

 

I could take the easy approach which is to fit the laser etched deck followed by the spirketting. If I take this course of action the first task would be to paint the inner bulwarks (except where the spirketting would be located). Once the inner bulwarks had been painted the laser etched gundeck pattern would be fitted followed by the spirketting. The spirketting would also need to be painted. I have already made a cardboard template of the bow area which I can use to check and trim the laser etched deck part as necessary should I opt to fit this part.

 

Alternatively I could start by adding the spirketting. The laser etched gundeck would then be added after the bulwarks and spirketting have been painted. The task would be completed by adding a waterway using some rounded 2mm square timber.

 

Another option I have been considering, after adding the spirketting to the inner bulwarks, is to use the boxwood timber to plank the gundeck, using a 3 or 4 butt shift pattern. I would have to look at adding a margin plank to the edge next to the spirketting. Once the planking is complete I would then add a waterway with some 2mm rounded material. This option would be much more challenging as I would need to bend the margin planks laterally for the bow area. I am also going to laterally bend a plank to see if I can get the required amount of bend.

 

Given the bow area is more or less hidden by the forecastle deck I could probably get away without adding a laterally bent margin plank and to simply butt the plank edge to the spirketting. The other challenging aspect with this approach would be to include the cannon locating slots. I would need to assembly one cannon to ensure the locating slots are correctly sized. Of course I could simple plank over the slots and to remove the tabs from the cannons. The cannon could be glued in place with a flat edge added to the bottom of the wheels.

Edited May 29, 2023 by Glenn-UK

[Matt D]

Glenn, I’m really sorry that happened and I hope you recover quickly.  Your build is coming together beautifully.

[chris watton]

I am very sorry to read this, Glenn. I sincerely hope you have a speedy and full recovery.

[ccoyle]

Hoping for a speedy recovery, Glenn. Backs are weird -- they can go out for the most seemingly innocuous of reasons.

[Glenn-UK]

Thanks for all the kind comments, it is greatly appreciated.

[Knocklouder]

Get well soon my friend  

[James H]

Strap you to a plank for a week and be spoon-fed your meals. 

 

You'll be right in no time!

 

Hope it's fixed up soon.

[Blue Ensign]

I can sympathise Glenn, I knackered a disc back in the 1980’s playing sport, catches me out occasionally, usually making a silly little movement. I find rest, a tens machine, ibuprofen, and a liberal supply of Merlot, gets me through it🤞.

 

Hope you’re back firing on all four soon.

 

B.E.

[Glenn-UK]

3 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

I can sympathise Glenn, I knackered a disc back in the 1980’s playing sport, catches me out occasionally, usually making a silly little movement. I find rest, a tens machine, ibuprofen, and a liberal supply of Merlot, gets me through it🤞.

 

Hope you’re back firing on all four soon.

 

B.E.

I agree it is the silly movements that catch me out. I was well on the way to recovery last week then as I reached for my socks last Thursday the prolapse reacted. Fingers crossed it has settled back down again but I'm being very carful with my movements.

[Glenn-UK]

45 minutes ago, James H said:

Strap you to a plank for a week and be spoon-fed your meals. 

 

You'll be right in no time!

 

Hope it's fixed up soon.

Thanks, great advice 

[Glenn-UK]

Deck Planking Preparation Work

I was able to spend a little bit time in the shipyard this morning. I still to be very careful with how I move at the moment so the time spent will be short and sweet for the time being.

 

My initial thought was to see if I could apply a suitable lateral bend for a gundeck margin bow planks. I have opted to trial 5mmW boxwood planks for the margin planks, noting the rest of the deck planking would be done using 4mmW boxwood planks. I soaked two 5mmW planks in hot water for around 45 minutes and then I applied a sharp bend to these planks, as shown in the photo below.

 

When I did a test fit of these bent planks around the bow area I realised I would need to add a much sharper bend. It may take two or three interations of the bending process to get the required bend for these planks. However when I checked these planks with the stern section the bend was just about right, but a minor adjustment would be needed. The planks were clamped again and I then brushed on some water. These planks will now be left to fully dry out. Once I am happy with the stern margin planks bend I will soak and bend margin planks for the bow section.

 

While the planks were immersed in the hot water I did a trial fit of the Spirketting. In the photo below the left-side front pattern has been test fitted. I used some brass pins to help with the alignment with the eyebolt holes.

 

I had previously constructed the gundeck grating assemblies, noting they still need to be painted. I did this because if I decide to plank the deck with the boxwood planks then I would like to make sure the grating assemblies are a good tight fit once the planking is complete. I decided it would be nice to take a few photos of them on the deck.

 

It was nice to see the grating assemble for the main mast area is a good fit with the bitts. The main mast and pump holes also are nicely aligned.

[Blue Ensign]

While the planks were immersed in the hot water I did a trial fit of the Spirketting. In the photo below the left-side front pattern has been test fitted. I used some brass pins to help with the alignment with the eyebolt holes.

 

I think you mean the upper ledges, Glenn, the spirketting fits below the gunports.

 

Ease back on the medication.😉

 

B.E.

[Kevin]

Glenn i found depending on if you plank or not, that the beam supports will need adjusting, and i added mine after the beams were secure

 

[Glenn-UK]

19 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

While the planks were immersed in the hot water I did a trial fit of the Spirketting. In the photo below the left-side front pattern has been test fitted. I used some brass pins to help with the alignment with the eyebolt holes.

 

I think you mean the upper ledges, Glenn, the spirketting fits below the gunports.

 

Ease back on the medication.😉

 

B.E.

You are right of course. In my simplistic mind both the upper and lower patterns were both called spirketting

[Glenn-UK]

17 minutes ago, Kevin said:

Glenn i found depending on if you plank or not, that the beam supports will need adjusting, and i added mine after the beams were secure

 

Thanks for the advice.

[Glenn-UK]

As @Blue Ensign pointed out the Spirketting is the bottom pattern as shown in the next two photos.

The lateral bend of the stern margin plank is now a nice fit now as can be seen in the photo below. I have also added a test waterway section from some old walnut material. I will need to use a different wood for the waterway. I will now try to get a suitable lateral bend for the bow section

 

[Glenn-UK]

Deck Planking

I ended up in A&E last week as my lower back lumber disk related condition worsened. I am now waiting for a MRI scan so the consultants can determine the nature of the problem which is probably a bulging disk. Thankfully the morphine as helped ease the back pain, however I seemed to have developed a lateral femoral cutaneous nerve pain which is still very painful when I try to walk. After a few days the pain has eased a little bit and I was able to spend a little bit of time in the shipyard today.

 

With regards to margin deck plank for the bow area I made a template of the bow area and then clamped the plank to follow the required curve. I think this method will work.

 

For the general deck planking I have opted to use a 3 butt shift pattern, with 100mmL planks which equates to approx. 6m long planks when scaled up to full size.

 

To help me cut the deck planks to 100mmL I built a simple jig. In the first photo the deck plank is being fed into the jig.

 

The plank is fed through some guide plates and is then butted up to the end stop, as can be seen in the next photo.

 

The next photo shows the plank in position and ready to be cut to size,

 

Using the cut slot guide the plank is cut to length using a razor saw.

 

The various planks, when cut to size, are then place in a container ready be glued in place when needed. I have only managed to cut a few planks so far.

[James H]

Nice solution to cutting those sections evenly.

[Glenn-UK]

Deck Planking – Started

My ongoing bulging disc is still limiting my time in the shipyard to small sessions. That said I have been able to start planking the gun deck.

 

I started with fitting a margin plank to the stern. I then decided to plank the central section of the gun deck from stern to bow. I have not utilised a butt shift pattern due to the short plank lengths required between the various deck openings in the central gun deck area but I will use a 3 butt shift pattern for the rest of the gundeck.

 

As each central gun deck section had been planked the various gun deck openings were opened and the associated deck items checked. I have included a set of photos showing the progress I have made over the last four days. You will note my progress is slow, but the planking is looking OK so far.

 

The trickiest central area to plank is the stove base to the bow area. As can be seen in the next photo after some careful measurements one of the planks has had the various cut-outs added.

 

The plank is then test fitted with the deck items in place.

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

Deck Planking – Very Slow Progress

As reported a few weeks ago I have been incapacitated with an ongoing prolapsed disc. The back pain did relocate to the outer and front part of my right thigh which indicated I had developed meralgia paresthetica (nerve entrapment as a result of the disc prolapse) and is caused by compression of the lateral femoral cutaneous nerve that provides sensation to the skin covering your thigh. Thankfully it has been warm and sunny so I have spent a great deal of my time sat in the garden developing a nice tan and doing the exercises provided by the physio to help. Over the last four days the pain has finally started to subside, and I no longer need to take the oral morphine for the pain relief although there is still a tingling sensation in the right thigh. As a result I have now been able to return the shipyard however I am keeping my sessions short for the time being, limiting each session to no more than 20 minutes with plenty of rest between each session.

 

I am using a 3 butt shift pattern for the deck, with a plank length of 100mm, but I'm not using the shift pattern around the central section cutout area. I have also made some templates which can be loaded into my plank cutting jig (see post #145) for cutting the shorter planks (25mm, 50mm and 75mm).

 

I started by planking the area around the central deck section moving outward toward right-hand bulwarks. To ensure I get the eyebolt holes drilled in the right position I used a simple template, as shown below.

 

To ensure I get the best possible join between planks I add an indication mark to the back of the plank to show where the next plank should be orientated so the two planks are fitted end to end with the common cut line.

 

The next 100mmL plank has just been cut I (and is still in the jig) as is ready be glued in place.

 

Once I have cleaned up the edges I apply a coat of titebond to the underside of the plank and then it is placed in on the deck. I have found it useful to use some offcuts to hold the glued plank in place whilst the next plank is being prepared. The 3 butt shift pattern can also be seen in the photo below.

 

I am not adding a margin plank to the first part of the bow area, as this will not be visible once the forecastle deck has been added.

 

The stern area is not as neat as I would have liked but again it will not be visible once the upper deck sections have been added.

Fun times ahead as I will need to add the cut-outs for the deck cannons.

 

Once the deck planking is complete it will need a good scrapping with a sharp blade before the WOP is added.

 

 

Edited June 26, 2023 by Glenn-UK

[Glenn-UK]

Deck Planking – Update

I realised that I had omitted any photos of the central section deck planking in my last post, so I took a few pictures showing this aspect.

 

The first photo shows the current state of the gun deck planking.

 

The next few photos are some close ups of the different central openings. As each opening was made I did make sure the various deck items would fit be it hatches, bitts, masts, etc.

 

As mention in the last post as the planking approaches the right-hand side inner bulwarks I would have to include the openings for the cannons. As can be seen in the next set of photo’s I have now created the first two openings, one for the bow and one for the aft cannons. These openings are checked with the locating piece of the cannon.

[Glenn-UK]

Gun Deck Planking – Right-Hand Side Completed

I have now completed the planking of the right-hand side of the gun deck. As stated in my previous post(s) I am using a 3-butt shift pattern, with a plank length of 100mm and 25mm offsets for the required butt shift pattern. This equates to approx. 6.4m long planks at full scale.

 

I was fearing adding the cut-outs for the cannon bases would be tricky, but it turned out to be relatively straight forward, especially when using the 100mm plank lengths. As each slot was cut it was tested using one of the cannon base parts.

 

Although I really like the boxwood finish I might, once the completed deck has been scrapped clean, consider using a wood stain. A little bit of experimentation is in order before I decide to use either a WOP varnish or a wood stain.

 

I have attached a few photos of the planking, noting these planks still need to scrapped clean.