HMS Indefatigable 1794 by Glenn-UK - FINISHED - Vanguardodel Ms - 1:64

[James H]

You could make things a little easier by splitting that deck into three sections. It'll also help when it comes time to glue it all down. 

 

Looking real nice though. 

[Glenn-UK]

14 minutes ago, James H said:

You could make things a little easier by splitting that deck into three sections. It'll also help when it comes time to glue it all down. 

 

Looking real nice though. 

Thats a great idea Jim, it did not occur to me to do that. Many thanks

[Glenn-UK]

Gun Deck Hatches

I realised that I had not fitted the coamings to the gun deck hatches. This has now been rectified.

When looking at the next photo I noticed one of cannon balls is trying to escape.

I did consider the suggestion made by Jim of splitting the deck patterns in to three parts, but decided to try gluing the first (right hand side) as one complete piece. Using plenty of the clamps the deck pattern was glued in place.

Whilst waiting for glue to dry I decided build a couple of deck items. I think they turned out OK.

After another trial fit of the left hand deck pattern I decided to fit as one complete piece. There was plenty of clamps used as the glue was left to cure. A couple of hours later the clamps were removed and the masts and bitts were test fitted. Everything was perfectly aligned.

The scrap framework was then successfully removed and the remaining bulkhead ear remnants were sanded flat to the deck level.

The remaining bulwarks were then sanded smooth.

To finish of todays work a test fit of the stern cabin rear bulkhead was undertaken. I also started to look at the assembly of the rudder casing and concluded that this is going to be a tricky little item to build.

[James H]

The housing just takes some time, careful measurement and re-measurement.

 

Just remember to continually tie in the work on the panels, with the top shelf, so you know everything matches.

[Blue Ensign]

All coming together very nicely Glenn, useful to have a look ahead as I slowly move forward.

 

B.E.

[Glenn-UK]

19 minutes ago, James H said:

The housing just takes some time, careful measurement and re-measurement.

 

Just remember to continually tie in the work on the panels, with the top shelf, so you know everything matches.

Thanks, I have already started to make a simple jig to help with the alignment and fitting, using the top shelf as a guide

[Glenn-UK]

9 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

All coming together very nicely Glenn, useful to have a look ahead as I slowly move forward.

 

B.E.

I use the other build logs as a guide in conjunction with the manual and plan sheets. I would strongly recommend that you test fit the hanging knees with the deck beams before the deck beams are glued in place. So much easier to see what mods, if any, are required to the knees.

[Thukydides]

It’s looking good. You are making brisk progress.

[Glenn-UK]

7 minutes ago, Thukydides said:

It’s looking good. You are making brisk progress.

Many thanks, I am taking more time than normal for me to check things before I glue things.

[Glenn-UK]

Rudder Housing Jig

The assembly of the rudder housing comprises 6 parts. Each of the 5 side parts requires bevelling of the edges to get the required shaping of the rudder housing. As I think this could be a tricky little assembly to get right I decided I should make a simple jig to assist with the bevelling. I thought this small side project might be of interest to some of the Indy builders.

 

Step 1 - Mark out the required pattern

Using a scrap bit of MDF I used the top rudder housing pattern to draw the required outer edge shape. Once that was done I was able to add the inner edges.

 

Step 2 - Making the Jig

Using some spare planking material I glued support pieces to either side of the guide lines. I started with adding the support pieces to the outer edges and used the top pattern to double check the were correctly positioned. Once I was happy with the outer supports I cut and glued the inner support pieces. This time I used the side patters to ensure the correct gap was set.

Step 3 - Bevelling the edges

The bevelling of the edges was a relatively simple task. As each part was bevelled it was tested in the jig. I used to the top part to double check the alignment. Fingers crossed this means when it time to fit the parts to the quarter gallery deck there should not be any problems.

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

Rudder Housing and Quarter Gallery Deck

With the stern cabin rear bulkhead glued in place it was time to fit the Quarter Gallery Deck. The kit supplied deck does require a little bit of trimming. I opted to make a left and right half carboard template which were cut to the required dimensions.

With the cardboard template placed on top of the quarter gallery deck I was able to trim it to the right size. A trial fit shows it is aligned and two pins drop nicely into the holes beneath the deck.

Next the rudder housing was assembled. I started with the left and right back pieces and used the top pattern to check the position. The next two pieces were then added. Once again the top panel was used to check the alignment.

The final end piece was glued in place along with the top panel. It is not my best work as you can seer that the left hand side panel is a bit askew where it joins the central end panel. However when the poop deck is installed, it will be difficult to see this housing so I am content with the outcome.

Next up will be the assembly of the various cabin screens. I have bought some spray mount for this task which should prevent the warping of the parts which normally happens when pva is used.

[Glenn-UK]

Cabin Screens

Using the spray mount adhesive the three cabin screen parts were glued together without any curling. With the quarter gallery inner bulwarks clamped in place the basic cabin screens were test fitted along with the two pear deck sections which sit either side of the middle screen.

 

Everything seems to fit together. In the first photo I did place the forward most screen the wrong way round.

The forward screen has now been turned around.

The quarter gallery bulwark test fit.

The second cabin area with deck parts test fitted.

More work is required to complete the screen assemblies such as adding window frames, Columns, painting, etc. The quarter gallery bulwarks also needs to be painted. I have received some oil paints today so the quarter gallery furniture (table and chairs) can be painted.

[James H]

At this point it really feels like the ship has soul. 

 

Beautiful work!

[Glenn-UK]

39 minutes ago, James H said:

At this point it really feels like the ship has soul. 

 

Beautiful work!

Thanks, I agree. I can't wait to see the end result when the cabin work is complete.

 

The use of the Spray Mount is a game changer with regards to gluing thin patterns back to back without the dreaded curl.

Edited August 12, 2023 by Glenn-UK

[James H]

3 minutes ago, Glenn-UK said:

Thanks, I agree. I can't wait to see the end result when the cabin work is complete.

 

The use of the Spray Mount is a game changer with regards to gluing thin patterns back to back with the dreaded curl.

I got sick of thin timber curling all the time!

[Glenn-UK]

Work on the Quarter Gallery Area

As much as I would have liked to replicate the quarter gallery area to the same standard as produced by Jim on his prototype build my efforts have sadly fallen someway short as the following set of photo's will demonstrate.  Once the poop deck has been installed much of this area is only visible through some cut-outs thankfully.

 

Before fitting the screens the gun ports were coated with a diluted wood filler solution and then painted red.

The cabin screens require some door handles. My first check was to make sure that I could feed the handles through the holes from both sides.

Once that was done the eyebolts were trimmed to sized and glued in place. I did like the natural finish of the eyebolts so decided not to paint them black. The next photo shows just how badly I finished of the screen. Although the spray mount did prevent the curling when the two screen parts were clued together I had some problems with curly during the painting phase.

The screens were then added to the deck. I used the relevant poop deck beams to make sure the screens were correctly aligned. The poop deck beams are only dry fitted at this stage of the build.

The captain, after a brief inspection, was not very impressed with his cabin. I fear I may be flogged as a result.

There are 4 off 42-pounder carronades to build for the two cabin areas. There is a t-piece which allows the the carronade carriage to slide over the top of the carronade skead. In the build manual the top of the t-piece , when fitted, is shown to be proud of the carriage. This is only possible if the bottom of the t-piece (yellow arrow) is rotated through 90 degrees so it fits in the slot but would be an incorrect assembly. The top of the t-piece, when correctly fitted, actually sits flush with the top of the carriage (blue arrow).

The basic assembly of the carronades is complete, noting the carriage is only dry fitted as the parts need to be painted flat red before the assembly phase.

[James H]

When I painted the internal walls, I didn't use the VM paint as the sets weren't ordered. 

 

What I used was an equivalent colour from Gunze, and airbrushed it on. In hindsight, I should've prepped those areas with Tamiya aerosol white primer as that covers the engraved colours far better.

[Glenn-UK]

Carronades

The 4 off carronades have been fully built and I am really pleased with how they look.

They also look nice when added to the cabin. As can be seen in the next photo there is a slight error with how I aligned the inner bulwark pattern (yellow arrow). As it will not be seen once the poop deck has been added I am not going to worry about it.

The captain is a little bit happier with his cabin. The table and chairs have been oil painted. I have no idea how long it takes for oil paint to fully dry. They were painted over 24 hours ago and they are still not dry. I will probably add a green baize to the table top before I add the maps and charts.

I am now going to be AWOL from the shipyard until a week on Saturday as my wife and I are travelling to Budapest tomorrow for another river trip as we enjoyed the one last month so much. This time down we cruise down the Blue Danube, visiting places such as Bratislava, Esztergom, Durnstein, Vienna and Salzburg. My wife loves the Sound of Music so she is really looking forward to visiting Salzburg. I am looking forward to visiting Durnstein whose castle imprisoned Richard the Lionheart in 1192 after he was shipwrecked on his return from the crusades.

 

 

Edited August 16, 2023 by Glenn-UK

[allanyed]

She looks fantastic and those carronade barrels look great!   The mounting for the carronades look really good as well, very similar to the drawing ZAZ6989 at RMG.  Looking at that drawing as well as the design in the model, I still cannot determine how the unit was supposed to pivot.  Was there a pivot pin or some such?   It would not be seen on the model so inconsequential, but I was curious how this was done.  I cannot make sense of the construction of the muzzle end of the mounting with only the side view.  Hopefully there is a top view to be found.

Allan

[Glenn-UK]

Looking at the drawing the pivot seems to be the screw adjustment the end of the barrel, opposite to the mizzen end.

[allanyed]

Hi Glenn

But, the pin does not appear go into anything to hold it while the carriage would pivot, unless the bottom most wooden? piece is anchored to what looks like a metal bracket.  Then again, where/how is the bracket anchored to something solid.     I am sure there is a simple explanation but a picture would sure help.😀

Allan

[AlanDavison]

The long bolt at the front (muzzle) is the pivot, the gun can be moved left or right aided by the wheels at the back. the short bolt, ties the spacer,(middle timber) to the base. The gun is elevated/ depressed using the rear screw device. I this instance the bed would have extended out over the gun port cill and fixed to it. This is not shown in the diagram.

 

 

 

 

 

[allanyed]

Thanks Alan, but I am still not getting it.  This is on me, not you, for sure.  The long bolt passes through top, middle and bottom block as well as what looks like a metal bracket.   What part is anchored and where is it anchored so the carriage can pivot on this pin?  If anyone has a top view that would really help.  Looking at several modern photos, they look nothing like the contemporary drawings, but surely there are some that are accurate reproductions if complete drawings are not available.

Thanks again Alan,  MUCH appreciated.

Allan

[James H]

7 hours ago, allanyed said:

Thanks Alan, but I am still not getting it.  This is on me, not you, for sure.  The long bolt passes through top, middle and bottom block as well as what looks like a metal bracket.   What part is anchored and where is it anchored so the carriage can pivot on this pin?  If anyone has a top view that would really help.  Looking at several modern photos, they look nothing like the contemporary drawings, but surely there are some that are accurate reproductions if complete drawings are not available.

Thanks again Alan,  MUCH appreciated.

Allan

Let's not turn a build log into a debate, like the diminishing wales thing.

 

Feel free to open a topic on carronades that can be used for reference. That's the best way to expend this thirst for knowledge. Please use this topic to enjoy Glenn's ongoing work on Indy. 

[Ronald-V]

I love these little interiors so much! It adds so much realism...it gives more sense of scale and you really get a grasp of how big these vessels were. You are doing a great job at it Glenn!

[AlanDavison]

Hi Allen,

my best suggestion is for you to google “carronade” on Wikipedia, you will find all that you need to know, including plans & pictures. Also on this site you can find a very long (500+pages) on smooth bore canons. Happy researching 

[Glenn-UK]

As I wait to leave home for our next holiday I decided I would take a few pictures of the Indy, showing how she will be left in my absence.

 

I have dry fitted the poop deck beams and placed the poop deck base pattern in position. It was a great fit. The quarterdeck, walkways and forecastle pear patterns have also been placed in position (dry fit), noting the bulkhead ears still need to be removed from the forecastle area which is why it is sitting proud. With the various decks in place a check was made that the bowsprit, foremast, main mast and miizzen mast would all locate properly, which they did.

 

The view to the cabin area looks good. I will add some pear fillers where the screen meets the bulwarks to hide the gap. 

The captain has been inspecting the work and seems reasonably happy with the progress to date. I am using clamps to hold the dry fitted decks in position. I hope that, when I return from my holiday, they will have retained the required shape which will make the gluing process a bit easier.

The quarter galleries have also been dry fitted, and although not shown in the final photo, the top and middle stern patterns have also been checked and everything seems to line up.

 

On my return from holiday the first task will be to complete all work related to the poop deck area.

 

Edited August 17, 2023 by Glenn-UK

[chris watton]

Watching you progress and hone your skills with each model has been a delight.

 

Enjoy your holiday!

Edited August 17, 2023 by chris watton

[Glenn-UK]

4 minutes ago, chris watton said:

Watching you progress and hone your skills with each model has been a delight.

 

Enjoy your holiday!

Thank Chris, 😊 

[glbarlow]

Well done my fellow Glenn, she’s really taking shape nicely!