HMS Indefatigable 1794 by Glenn-UK - FINISHED - Vanguardodel Ms - 1:64

[Glenn-UK]

Starting The First Planking

There is a lot of hull real estate to plank so it will take me quite a few days to complete the first planking of the Indy.

 

The first plank to be laid sits below the gun ports and forecastle bulwark pattern. Therefore before the plank can be fitted it is important to mark the position of the lower edge of the forecastle bulwark pattern. With both patterns are carefully positioned on the hull and held in place with a couple of clamps the lower edges are drawn on to the bulkheads.

 

With the first plank clamped to the hull the central position of bulkhead 9 is marked, as the plank will be fitted in two sections.

 

The plank did seem to have enough flexibility to be secured around the bow section without any bending being applied. However as I want to make a good job of the planking I used my plank bending tool and made a series number of crimps so the plank would naturally follow the curve around the bow section. As can be seen in the next photo the bent plank is a good fit.

 

With the brass pins placed in a disk and the depth of the pin insertion tool checked the first planks were ready to be fitted. With a good coating of titebond 3 brushed on to the hull the first plank was fitted.

 

Not sure how I managed to do this but I inadvertently double loaded the pin pusher on one occasion.

[Glenn-UK]

First Planking -Stage 1 The Upper Section

With both forecastle bulwark patterns clamped in place I carefully drew the lines where the lower plank will fit.

 

With the first plank held in place I marked the 9^th bulkhead position, where the plank will be split, as indicated by the blue arrow in the ensuring photo.

 

Although the planks were flexible and could be glued and pinned around the bow section without any pre-bending I did opt to bend the plank using my crimp plank bending tool. With the bent plank clamped in place it was a great looking fit.

 

The first planks (both left and right sides) were then glued and pinned in place.

 

Somehow I loaded two pins in my pin pusher tool on one occasion.

 

The outer bulwark patterns were then clamped in place in order to plank the area between the gun ports.

 

It was then a simple task to plank upward and to clear the gunport openings.

 

The next task is to glue the outer bulwark patterns in place. You can never have to many clamps. I used the glue bottles to keep the hull upright while the clamps were in place.

Tomorrow my wife and I are looking after our youngest grandson, so my shipyard time will be limited to about an hour during his afternoon nap time.

[Glenn-UK]

First Planking - Bow Lateral Plank Bending

The hull planking will be split in two sections. Section 1 is from the bow to bulkhead 9. Section 2 is from bulkhead 9 to the stern. This post details the method I plan to take for section 1.

 

After taking some measurements of the various bulkheads I entered the data into a spreadsheet and made some calculations. I have allowed 28mm, 6mm will be from the top as the first plank has already been fitted and 22mm will be taken from the bottom. This will allow me to plank downward in 3 bands, with 8 planks fitted per band. The following picture shows my planking data calculations.

 

With a plank held in position around the left-hand side of the hull I marked the positions of bulkheads 1 to 9 on to the plank. I then transferred the required measurements on to the plank. I used 3mm at bulkhead 1, 4mm at bulkhead 2 and 5mm at bulkhead 4 as the main reference points. The start of the taper is halfway between bulkhead 6 and 7. With a line drawn connecting the points the plank was tapered. Using the tapered plank as a template I repeated the process for another plank which would be the right-hand side of the hull. The printout shown in the photo below was my first draft, before I updated it.

 

 

When the tapered left-side plank was offered up to the hull it looked to be a nice fit but needed a little bit of force to push up tight against the already fitted plank. The photo below shows the plank clamped in place with a natural flow. With reference to Chuck’s lateral bending method the blue arrow indicates the widest gap between the planks.

 

The plank was then taken to a makeshift bending station and clamped in place, with the point indicated by the blue arrow in the previous photo at the centre of the bend point. I made sure the plank had an even bend, by counting 5 divisions either side and bring the plank down to the same level as indicated by the two blue arrows.

 

After brushing some water on the plank heat was applied using my heated plank bending tool. When the plank was released, it had held the lateral bend. When the plank was then offered up to the hull it followed the upper plank much better and without the need to apply any force.

 

This seems to be the way to go forward, noting it is going to take quite a bit of time to plank the hull using this method. I am unsure if I will taper the planks between bulkheads 9 and 18 and will probably make tapered test plank before deciding.

[Nipper]

Looking good!

I too used Chuck's method when planking my Sphinx.  As you say, it's very time-consuming.  Sometimes I only managed to fit one or two planks a day. But the time taken and careful measuring and checking meant that it was so satisfying when the plank fitted smoothly into place.  So well that I soon realised that my sanding of the bulkheads left a bit to be desired.  i should have spent the time and care that you did on fairing the bulkheads!

 

Nipper

[Glenn-UK]

28 minutes ago, Nipper said:

Looking good!

I too used Chuck's method when planking my Sphinx.  As you say, it's very time-consuming.  Sometimes I only managed to fit one or two planks a day. But the time taken and careful measuring and checking meant that it was so satisfying when the plank fitted smoothly into place.  So well that I soon realised that my sanding of the bulkheads left a bit to be desired.  i should have spent the time and care that you did on fairing the bulkheads!

 

Nipper

Thanks Nipper

I am experimenting with a double plank bending station at the moment which may speed the process up a bit.

 

Glenn-UK

[CaptnBirdseye]

1 hour ago, Glenn-UK said:

Thanks Nipper

I am experimenting with a double plank bending station at the moment which may speed the process up a bit.

 

Glenn-UK

Glenn you can't just drop a bomb like that with no details! Hope you're going to show us all what you're upto 👍

Edited March 24, 2023 by CaptnBirdseye

[Glenn-UK]

1 hour ago, CaptnBirdseye said:

Glenn you can't just drop a bomb like that with no details! Hope you're going to show us all what you're upto 👍

Hello CaptnBirdseye

I was planning on adding more detail once I had completed the first band. I have attached a couple of photos of my double stacking method. It should be noted that the upper (outer) plank will have a slightly different bend radius. So far the method seems to be working Ok as I not aiming for perfection given this is basically a base layer which is being prepared for the final planking, which will need to be much more precise.

 

Photo 1 - the two planks are secured in the plank bending station. Once they have been coated with water they are left for a period of time to dry out. 

Photo 2- once the planks have been released there is a nice bend. The sheet of paper is a bulkhead template, making the marking for the tapering process a bit easier.

[Gus M]

Spoiler

 

Great work!!

[Gus M]

Damn, I not remember this, on board of course

[Glenn-UK]

First Planking – Planking Stern Area

The method I used to plank under the stern counter area has evolved as I have progressed with this task. With the first couple of planks I worked from bulkhead 9 and used my plank crimping tool to add the bend around the stern counter.

 

I was not totally happy with the above method particularly with getting a nice smooth bend. It was also tricky to trim the end of the plank to fit under the stern frames. Therefore I decided to try working from the stern to bulkhead 9 which has worked out to be much better. The first task was to trim the plank end to the required angle.

 

Next I marked the area where the plank needed to be bent.

 

I used my heated plank bender to add the required bend which did yield much better results.

 

The bent plank was then clamped in position around the stern area so the plank could be trimmed to the right length at bulkhead 9. I found it beneficial to leave the plank clamped in place for a few minutes.

 

After one final dry fit check the plank was glued in place. I found it better to use a clamp to hold the plank in place at bulkhead 18 and then pinned the rest of the plank at each bulkhead position.

 

I have added 6 layers of planks. It is by no way perfect but this is my best attempt at first planking.

[Kevin]

well done glenn, she looks great

[Glenn-UK]

18 minutes ago, Kevin said:

well done glenn, she looks great

 

18 minutes ago, Kevin said:

well done glenn, she looks great

Thanks Kevin

I am taking my time at the moment, so it will be several more days before the first planking is completed.

[Kevin]

1 minute ago, Glenn-UK said:

 

Thanks Kevin

I am taking my time at the moment, so it will be several more days before the first planking is completed.

i am debating the best way ahead to do the 2nd planking, as i have no intention of painting the hull, only the wales, 

[Glenn-UK]

15 minutes ago, Kevin said:

i am debating the best way ahead to do the 2nd planking, as i have no intention of painting the hull, only the wales, 

Planking in bands with lateral bends around the bow would be worth considering. I did add 3000+ copper tiles when I built Caldercraft's Victory which was a mammoth undertaking. The copper tape will be much easier to do if you decire to use it.

[Kevin]

28 minutes ago, Glenn-UK said:

Planking in bands with lateral bends around the bow would be worth considering. I did add 3000+ copper tiles when I built Caldercraft's Victory which was a mammoth undertaking. The copper tape will be much easier to do if you decire to use it.

i have no intentions to cover this hull, not with using boxwood

[Blue Ensign]

Good progress Glenn, I think it is the right approach to fit those transom stern planks aft - forward. I always form those planks from a longer length to ensure a smooth curve.

 

B.E.

[Glenn-UK]

1 hour ago, Blue Ensign said:

Good progress Glenn, I think it is the right approach to fit those transom stern planks aft - forward. I always form those planks from a longer length to ensure a smooth curve.

 

B.E.

Many thanks and I have certainly found it much easier working aft - forward.

 

Glenn-UK

[JeffT]

I planked the Sphinx starting at the stern. I think its a much easier way to do it.

[Glenn-UK]

4 hours ago, JeffT said:

I planked the Sphinx starting at the stern. I think its a much easier way to do it.

Agreed

[allanyed]

On 3/24/2023 at 8:10 AM, Nipper said:

As you say, it's very time-consuming

I find that if you use this method with a hot air gun (any local hardware chain for less than $20) it goes faster and is MUCH easier than using an iron.  It is the heat, not the water that does the trick so can be done dry or wet as you wish.   Depending on the wood, I find wet is sometimes easier so soaking a bunch of planks in a piece of PVC pipe with distilled water ahead of time is a good idea.   Then again, if this is hobby, not an occupation there is no need for speed.  Fast ship modeling is an oxymoron if ever there was one.

Allan

Edited March 28, 2023 by allanyed

[Glenn-UK]

1 hour ago, allanyed said:

I find that if you use this method with a hot air gun (any local hardware chain for less than $20) it goes faster and is MUCH easier than using an iron.  It is the heat, not the water that does the trick so can be done dry or wet as you wish.   Depending on the wood, I find wet is sometimes easier so soaking a bunch of planks in a piece of PVC pipe with distilled water ahead of time is a good idea.   Then again, if this is hobby, not an occupation there is no need for speed.  Fast ship modeling is an oxymoron if ever there was one.

Allan

Thanks Allan

I do normally work on shaping a few planks at a time. But as you say this is a hobby so I'm in no rush at the moment.

[Glenn-UK]

First Planking – Planking Garboard

Yesterday I had to attend to a plumbing issue as the water in our kitchen sink disposal unit was not draining away. After removing the unit and cleaning it there still seemed to an issue with the water drainage, so I ended up buying and fitting a new unit. I was therefore unable to spend much time in the shipyard.

 

Having completed planking under the stern counter area today I decided to add the garboard plank. I was very pleased with how the first three planks looked around the bow area.

 

The stern area is only being planking up to the dead area which avoid the need to taper the keel.

 

I am working with an inverted Indy which is resting on two spacers to stop the bulwarks resting on the work bench.

 

I am using pins to secure the planks to the various bulkheads However I am also using clamps to ensure the plank edges are aligned which should reduce the amount of sanding required.

 

[Gus M]

here is a great progress and it looks great, I am learning a lot of things, thanks for sharing 

[Glenn-UK]

28 minutes ago, Gus M said:

here is a great progress and it looks great, I am learning a lot of things, thanks for sharing 

Thanks Gus

[Glenn-UK]

First Planking – Adding Stealers

Previously when fitting a stealer I would ignore the general rule that planks never be tapered by more than half of their width and would simply taper to a point. As I continue on my model building journey I decided that I should try improve my skills with regards to fitting stealers.

 

The next planks to be fitted at both the bow and stern required half stealers. Once I had determined the start point for the stealer and selected a suitable planking off cut the half stealer plank was tapered. It was then a case of using the stealer as a template to make the required cut out in the adjacent full plank to be fitted. The join between the stealer and full plank was checked and once I was happy both planks were glued in place.

 

This is a little bit more time consuming than a simple “tapered to a point” type stealers but does look much better The blue arrows indicate the half stealers. You will also note, when looking at the photos below, that I made a couple of mistakes elsewhere with the bow and stern section and which required some small filler planks to be added. Thankfully these errors will be covered up with the second planking layer.

[Glenn-UK]

First Planking – Left Side Completed

After a few day work I have completed the first planking on the left-hand side. I decided to abandon the planking in bands and continued to plank upward.

 

I now have a few days more work to complete the right-hand side.

 

I have attached a few photos.  I am really pleased with how this has turned out.

[JeffT]

Nice planking, looks really good.

[Glenn-UK]

2 minutes ago, JeffT said:

Nice planking, looks really good.

Thanks Jeff

[Glenn-UK]

First Planking –Completed

I have made good progress over the last few days and finally completed the first planking this morning. This is, without doubt, my best attempt at adding the first planking layer to a model boat. It is by no means perfect but I think it will provide a good solid base for the second planking layer.

 

I think using Chuck’s lateral bending method for fitting planks around the bow area really paid dividends for this build when I added the planks in the first planking band. I wish I had the patience and commitment to continue with adding the planks in banks, with lateral bends. However after fitting the garboard plank I decided to continue to plank upward from the keel. In doing so I did master the skill of adding half stealers which is something I had not done before.

 

I have added a few photo’s of the completed planking for your viewing pleasure.

 

[Blue Ensign]

looks a sound base for the 'show' layer Glenn. 👍

 

B.E.