Cangarda 1901 by KeithAug - Scale 1:24 - Steam Yacht

[GrandpaPhil]

Lol!

[Javelin]

Well here is the grating I meant. Found it back on SB side just behind the lifeboat davit. 

If you remove the gratings side of the hinge, I bet the hull part of the hinge looks familiar...

 

The boom you now show is indeed for boats/launches. Battleships of that age also had such booms to embark boats. They even hung rope ladders on them to board the boats from that boom. It's possible that in Cangarda's case it's only used to hold boat in place? 

In your picture you can also see a white rope going to that forward feature  on SB bow (shown in detail in the pics you posted on page 1), that holds the boom in open position. I assume it's removable since I don't see it in collapsed/closed position in any of the other pictures (but you might find it in other pictures you have). Those battleships did fold it in, like the booms for the torpedo nets. 

 

[Bedford]

Yeah, that'll be it. I can see them wanting to keep tenders etc away from the hull, the boom would let them swing the tender in when they wish to use it

[Dr PR]

It wasn't just ancient battleships. Boat booms are common on more modern vessels - at least into the late 20th century. They were used to tether boats while they were not in use.

 

There is a definite line leading up to the mast, so this is a boom rigged outboard, and the thing on the side of the hull is the attachment point.

[KeithAug]

22 hours ago, Javelin said:

Well here is the grating I meant.

Roel - yes it is all becoming clear. The step is on the starboard side amidships ( somewhat further aft than the feature in question ).

Also the step brackets have two horizontal pivot lugs whereas the feature I was looking at only has one vertical pivot lug.

The bonus from this investigation is that I now know where the step (and the gate in the guard rail) is. 

Finally here is a picture of what may be the boom laid on the deck adjacent to the feature in question. It seems to have an end fitting that would fit nicely into the vertical lug on the bulwark feature.

18 hours ago, Bedford said:

Yeah, that'll be it.

The evidence does seem to be stacking up doesn't it Steve.

 

15 hours ago, Dr PR said:

There is a definite line leading up to the mast,

Yes Phil, and if you imagine very hard you can see a line led forward from the outboard end of the pole, presumably to swing it out and then hold it in place.

 

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions.

[KeithAug]

I also found a video so here are some fairly poor images of the "parking" pole.

[Rick310]

Keith, walked past Cangarda today and both Cangarda and the were uncovered.  Sold?

I took some additional pictures of both.

Most are of the launch.

 

[KeithAug]

1 hour ago, Rick310 said:

took some additional pictures of both.

Thank you so much Rick. Every little bit of detail just adds another layer of interest. Is she actually sold?

[Rick310]

I don’t know.  Don’t know why they would uncover her if she wasn’t, unless she is being moved.

Rick

 

[KeithAug]

So here goes with an update of the weekends work prior to a journey round the country visiting friends and family.

 

In pursuit of my strange plan (to do everything in reverse order) I move on to the keel.

 

I started at the bow where the keel wraps around to become the stem. I considered making this section as a series of shaped and end jointed planks but in the end decided to lay it up from layered strips.

 

To start I printed off the bow profile and glued it to a piece of .160" thick ply.

I then cut out the shape of the bow to create a template. This was offering up to the hull to check for accuracy of fit. The profile of the hull and of the template was then adjusted to eliminate any gaps.

This wasn't the end of the process because what I needed was a template of the shape of the hull. To complete the exercise what I needed to do was manufacture the matching template of the shape of the stem.

Once this was produced I taped the edge of the template with masking tape (red arrow) before nailing it down to a piece of MDF covered with glue resistant tape (blue arrow). 

I then cut 5 mahogany strips .05" thick by .140" wide. The final width was 0.1" and the .140" allowed plenty of room for final sizing.

I then glued the first 2 planks and held them against the template with notice board pins, before allowing the glue to dry.

 

I proceeded to add the remaining 3 planks.

Once the glue was dry I removed the pins and slipped the stem off the template. The stem was then sanded both sided down to a thickness of .100"

There was a bit of flex back in the finished stem so the fit was marginally off.

I decided that there was enough flexibility in the stem piece to spring and hold it place for attachment.

To give the stem (and keel) additional strength I decided to pin it in place with .062" brass dowel pins. The stem (and keel) pieces were drilled at 2" centres to take the pins.

The stem was then glued in place with PVA glue while being held tightly in place with elastic bands and pins. The blue masking tape is to prevent the PVA spreading on to the finish sanded hull. The green arrow is pointing at one of the pins left excessively long to act as a sighting guide to aligned the stem central to the keel.

Once dry the pins were filed back to their finished length.

The keel was then attached. The red arrow is pointing at a piece of wood with a slot cut to fit tight over the keel piece. This together with a spirit level allowed the keel to be attached / pinned truly vertical.

That is the whole keel attached with the exception of a short length immediately in front of the skeg. This will be fitted once the skeg is glued in place.

 

And so off on our travels we go.

 

 

[Glen McGuire]

Wonderful work on that keel bow curve!  Looks superb.

[Rick310]

Beautiful as always Keith!!

Rick

[Jim Lad]

That's a very nicely done curvy bit, Keith!

 

John

[Richard Dunn]

How are you going to do the gingerbread work Keith?
I assume modelling clay?
Speaking of that I wish Doris would repost her videos on that subject.

[KeithAug]

Thank you Glen, Rick and John. And thanks to everyone for the likes.

 

11 hours ago, Richard Dunn said:

How are you going to do the gingerbread work Keith?

Richard - I don't know yet. I keep looking at it, worrying and putting it to the back of my mind. I guess I'll do a trawl of techniques from other build logs and then decide what my skill set will accommodate.

[Rick310]

Keith, just heard today that Cangarda has been sold and will be shipped to Turkey.   Sad to see her go, but glad she won’t be going to the scrap heap.

Rxk

[KeithAug]

4 hours ago, Rick310 said:

shipped to Turkey

Not a great plan for a national treasure, but better than rotting away in the boat yard I suppose.

[Richard Dunn]

Re the gingerbread work, if you are savy with 3d modelling you could always resin print them or get them printed, thats what I was going to do for the 1/40 Cutty Sark  Kit I made earlier this year but clay sculpting just looks nicer and it's just a case of forming it with small tools and water and then baking in the oven.  just he says.....just... I imagine it takes a bit of practice...

Edited August 21 by Richard Dunn

[KeithAug]

13 hours ago, Richard Dunn said:

if you are savy with 3d modelling you could always resin print

Richard - Not an option Im afraid. I come from a long line of luddites.

[BANYAN]

Keith, the gingerbread for the Victoria model was done using various sized cotton threads and yarns soaked in PVA - not my work but that of a fellow club member.  The pliability of the threads allows it to easily conform to any shape, and the size of the thread/yarn allows different thickness to be built up easily.  Seal it, paint it and hey presto - worked for us but we are not at your scale, so may not give the clean results you want at your bigger scale.  The required shape/ske;letion lines were first drawn on the hull/fitting then the thread applied.  The attached show some of this in progress A lot more clean up was done before the final coats of paint..  Simply offering another option.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[KeithAug]

Pat - I am probably going to do a bit of experimenting before I reach a decision. I have a couple criteria of choice.

 

Avoids expensive new machinery and skills - e.g. prnters

Accuracy of duplication - identical mirror image on both sides.

 

I have been reading up on photo etch but at the moment it looks a bit messy for my liking. 
 

 

[Jim Lad]

Keith, you could always just take a deep breath and try carving. Many years ago I did the gingerbread on my model of the 'Leon' (1:96) using very small chisels ground from large needles, which is not as difficult as it might sound. It might at least be worth a try.

 

John

 

[KeithAug]

22 minutes ago, Jim Lad said:

just take a deep breath and try carving.

What wood were you carving John?

Did you carve the scrolls and apply them to a backing board or did you start with a thick board and carve away the excess?

 

[Jim Lad]

Carved in my favourite timber - privet! Any good, close grained timber would serve, Keith. The scrolls were carved in relief on a thin piece of wood, which is the backing you can see behind the carvings. I drew the scrolls onto tracing paper and the put the tracing paper over the wood and drawing side down and drew over the lines from the other side. This transfers the original drawing onto the wood and also gives you a drawing on the opposite side of the paper so you can draw a mirror image for the scrolls on the other side of the ship.

 

John

[KeithAug]

9 hours ago, Jim Lad said:

The scrolls were carved in relief on a thin piece of wood

Very skilful John - I may need a few years of practice. I was in York the other day looking at the Minster. I spent some time watching / talking to the stone masons carving replacement gargoyles, They seem to have a very long apprenticeship. The girl mason had very impressive biceps.😬

 

[Richard Dunn]

I recently added Photoetching to my skillset, it took me 2 years to get around to it and I think i worked it up into something scary in my mind but it's really not, but for gingerbread at your scale I dont think it would cut it and you can't get the bevelled forms, everything has to be flat or inset
Doris, if you are watching this can you please link us back to your vidoes on your incredible sculpting.

 

Edited August 23 by Richard Dunn

[KeithAug]

7 hours ago, Richard Dunn said:

but for gingerbread at your scale I dont think it would cut it and you can't get the bevelled forms, everything has to be flat or inset

Richard 

 

I have seen some examples where a base of photo etch has been built up using solder to create the required depth. I won't even pretend to be in the same class as Doris with modelling clay.

[Richard Dunn]

3 hours ago, KeithAug said:

I won't even pretend to be in the same class as Doris with modelling clay.

I don't think many of us are, but I for one want to at least get close, it's a very useful skill.
At least it's cheap to learn and if things go wrong you can have another go, also I like the idea of being able to work on top of a paper plan with a sheet of celluloid or glass so you have a guide.
Thats why we need a movement to get her videos back she put up 10 years ago.
I have spent nearly a day looking through the web for links to it ,mainly on Czech sites and sent private messages asking when I find contact links, but sadly she has not been in here since 2021

Edited August 23 by Richard Dunn
typos

[Jim Lad]

At least give it a try, Keith. You may well find that it's not as difficult as you think.

 

John

[KeithAug]

Another week gone by and I plod along. I feel like I need a bit of change of direction after all a change is a good as a rest!

 

Firstly here is that dreaded scroll work that has been exercising my thoughts. 

On the hull drawings the draughtsman took a bit of artistic license when representing the decorations. It would have been a deal easier to follow this fanciful representation.

The drawing did however accurately define the mahogany backing board on which the scroll work sits.

By this stage I had rejected the notion of carving the decoration in relief because I couldn't see how I was going to neatly paint the scroll without spreading the gold paint everywhere.

I printed out a template and offered this up to the hull.

I then cut 2 pieces of mahogany .020" thick and taped these together with double sided tape. I glued on the template and cut the planks to shape with a jewelers saw.

 I then glued these on to the hull and attached a piece of strip to the lower edge. I broke several pieces of strip before I got the curve sorted.

Nerves then got the better of me so I parked the scroll and diverted to the other end.

 

I hadn't drilled the hull for the rudder stock so I adapted my tapping jig and bored the hole.

With that done I did a test assembly of the rudder.

I then went on to make the boss that fits at the end of the prop fairing. Interestingly the skeg (including the boss) is the only hull feature from the original yacht that seems to have made it into the reconstruction.

The boss was made from a piece of 1/2" brass bar - as per the very rough sketch below. Because the flange needs to be 3/4" diameter I formed a stub and soldered on a brass washer (white arrow). 

The flange was then machined away using the side of an end mill with the bar mounted on a rotary table.

The boss was finished on the lathe.

The finished part was then test fitted with the skeg. 

I am nearly at the stage of gluing all these parts on to the hull but I am reluctant to do so as it isn't entirely obvious how I am going to fit the prop with the skeg glued in place. It is also obvious that I can't permanently fit the prop before the skeg. I do have a devious plan but I really need to make the prop and try out the plan before final committing to permanently attaching the skeg.

So the next step is to make the prop.

I have given some thought to prop manufacture. I did consider buying one but getting the right size and shape wasn't exactly easy and anyway it felt like cheating.

The design sketch is attached below. The hub will be made from 12mm bar with the blade root angle being 45 deg to the axis. The tip angle will be about 70 deg to the axis. The blade shape is estimated from the various photographs that I have. The lugs (red arrows) are an early thought on an assembly aid and may not feature once I have thought it through.

And so on to working out how to machine and assemble the prop. The next post should be somewhat more interesting.