Cangarda 1901 by KeithAug - Scale 1:24 - Steam Yacht

[druxey]

Well, if you are a fool (and I don't think that you are), you are a consistent one at least! That hull does look very sleek now.

[Jim Lad]

Nice to see that planking started, Keith!

 

John

[BANYAN]

This will be one very finely lined model Keith; your preparation, as with your work, is simply outstanding.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Mirabell61]

beautiful jobstart on the planking Keith,

I like thr lines of your yacht

nicely done

 

Nils

[KeithAug]

Thank you Druxey, John, Pat and Nils for your supportive comments and thanks, as ever, to all of you who have left likes or just paid a visit.

 

And so on with the planking.

 

I started off by drawing a series of parallel lines on the hull. These act as a guide for judging the symmetry of planking on both sides of the hull.

The previous two builds consumed a whole leaf of my antique mahogany table so I dug out the second leaf from the back of the garage. I calculate that this second leaf plus the centre section will amply suffice for the remainder of my modelling career.

I cut it into 3" inch planks on my full size table saw before moving on to the Byrnes saw to cut it down further to .700" x .220" strips. I chose .220" as the nominal width of the planks because .250" seemed a little wide and .200" seemed a little narrow - very scientific!

I then cut a supply of planks sufficient to get a good start. I decided to make the planks nominally 1/16" thick (thin enough to bend easily while thick enough to give me a reasonable sanding margin). I ripped them over thickness and sanded them to thickness using my improvised drum sander.

My worry about hull sanding allowance made me stay cautiously a little above the 0.625" target plank thickness.

 

The table isn't wide enough to allow continuous planking runs so each rise takes 2 planks per side.

I am gluing the planks with waterproof PVA glue on both the back side and on the edges. The planks are pinned in place with cork notice board pins. These are "nailed" into pre drilled holes in the frames - quite a laborious task.

The first plank above (or is that below?) the previously installed plywood strake is parallel. I plan to install a number of parallel planks and then start shaping planks as I progress. Using my usual "suck it and see" approach.

I have managed to get the first 2 runs completed on both sides - 8 planks in total.

Obviously I have to give the glue time to dry before removing the pins so this makes the process a 2 planks per side per day job. At least I have plenty of time for tea breaks.

 

That's all for now folks.

 

 

[Keith Black]

 It's a supportive wife that allows her husband to ripsaw the dinning room furniture for his ship modeling hobby.

 

 That table has given it's all for some beautiful hulls and is doing so again, good on ya ole table.  

[wefalck]

Yep, nothing matches that old-time mahagony 👍🏻

[Veszett Roka]

Hi Keith,

 

with this thickness of the planks, wouldn't you need to sand down the edges to a little V shape, to fit the planks perfectly? I'm mainly thinking of the engine room area

[KeithAug]

19 hours ago, Keith Black said:

It's a supportive wife that allows her husband to ripsaw the dinning room furniture

Keith.  The legs had woodworm - that is the table not the wife! That said she is looking a bit grubby today.

 

18 hours ago, wefalck said:

nothing matches that old-time mahagony

Eberhard. The only downside is it tends to be quite brittle when cut into thin strips. Otherwise it is lovely to work with.

 

4 hours ago, Veszett Roka said:

wouldn't you need to sand down the edges to a little V shape

Veszett. Yes you are correct - I sand a bevel on one edge of each plank to get a tight fit against the adjacent plank. 

 

Edited May 13 by KeithAug

[Jim Lad]

Nothing like an old table for modelling timber!  The spars of all my models to date come from an antique pine table top that had seen better days.

 

John

[Roger Pellett]

Our local Solid Waste Disposal Site, aka “The Dump” has a large section where visitors can take away items thrown away by others.  The stuff is free.  They have one entire building full of furniture.   Next time I go there I’ll have to see if I can find any mahogany.  It’s probably all veneer but Duluth does have a large number of old very large homes, once residences to wealthy families, so maybe I’ll strike gold.

 

Roger

[Ian_Grant]

Good on them for promoting recycling. Our local dump does not allow you to pick up anything someone else left, for some reason.

[Veszett Roka]

On 2/27/2024 at 6:01 PM, Veszett Roka said:

 

Don't cheat, you cannot go nowhere without that WD40 Keith! Can't see the duct tape however, that must be in the drawer.

Remember this post Gentlemen? We are not alone

[druxey]

If the antique wood is a little brittle, you may be able to restore pliability as the veneer folk do: a very dilute solution of glycerin in water. Spray the cut strips and let them dry between sheets of plain newsprint under weight for a couple of days. (It may take longer in regions of higher humidity as it takes longer for the water content to evaporate out.)

Edited Wednesday at 02:07 PM by druxey

[KeithAug]

7 hours ago, druxey said:

you may be able to restore pliability as the veneer folk do: a very dilute solution of glycerin in water.

Druxey - thank you for the tip. it only tends to be a problem where the curvature is quite pronounced and I haven't bothered to try and pre bend using heat / steam. That said your suggestion could be very useful for the deckhouses.

[KeithAug]

John, Roger, Ian, Veszett and Druxey thank you for commenting.

 

Just a brief update:- 

 

I got to the 3rd row of planks before the planks began to run out at the stern. This necessitated a wedge being inserted. Just visible between the second and third planks in the next photo.

I did however continue with parallel planks.

 

In the boiler room area I needed to start aligning the plank edges using stainless steel clothes pegs where alignment proved to be unsatisfactory.

Having included the wedge between the 2nd and 3rd planks the 4th plank went on as a parallel plank without a further wedge.

I am now on layer 7 and probably near the end of parallel planking. At maximum beam I am going to have to start adding more width (which in practice means narrowing the planks at stem and stern).

I am checking the symmetry of the planks (with callipers) on an ongoing basis. The green lines also help me judge the symmetry. As yet everything is looking good. 

 

 

[Jim Lad]

She's really coming along very nicely, Keith.

 

John

[Mark Pearse]

You're making it appear easy. And that's a nice hammer.

[Ian_Grant]

Wow, those planks are going to look awesome when sanded...........👍

[BANYAN]

Love the colour of those planks Keith.  The planks are sitting really nicely.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Veszett Roka]

An engineer's work. A careful and precise engineer's. Marvellous.

Edited Friday at 06:52 AM by Veszett Roka
typo elimination

[Rick310]

Really beautiful Keith!!  Love the planking!

Rick

[KeithAug]

15 hours ago, Mark Pearse said:

And that's a nice hammer.

Yes, and it's older than I am, in better working order and more useful. My father's and maybe even my grandfathers.

 

15 hours ago, Mark Pearse said:

You're making it appear easy.

Mark - that may be because I am doing the easy bit first.🙂

 

John, Ian, Pat, Veszett, Rick. It is still early days for the planking. Plenty of opportunity to make a mess.

 

Thank you to everyone for the likes.

 

[FriedClams]

Nice start on the planking, Keith!  For me, there's always a level of inner tension when planking begins.  Not only does the hull define the vessel, but it's also one of the most scrutinized elements.  I know this will turn out fantastic.

 

Gary

[druxey]

I have an identical tack hammer. It is circa 1940 and was my father's. I still love using it; perfect heft and balance. But we digress.

[TBlack]

I’m impressed with your ability to draw those green lines so accurately.

Tom